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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016, 35K miles. Mods: CAI, oil CC, e-tuned by Randy @ Mountune. NGX LTR7IX plugs, almost new (<1000mi). Motorcraft 5w-50 oil, 4500 mi since change, ironically planned to change it the next day. Shell 93 gas. HG done ~10K mi. Car has always run great, no codes, no misfires, no rough idle, anything like that.

I'm driving home with some takeout from our fave Thai restaurant, come up behind two cars going pretty slow as they're beginning to climb a steep, long hill. As there's 2 lanes, I decide to pass (I'm hungry). In 4th, going about 40 mph, and rather than downshift into 3rd I give it enough gas to get somewhere in the 45-50 range (maybe 2700rpm?), then floor it. About 2 seconds later, BOOM, white smoke pouring out, no power. Pull over, pop the hood, and see a piece of metal, and immediately realize what happened.

Pics show how the rod broke the oil pan - quite the explosion. Doesn't seem to be any damage in the front of the engine (not leaking coolant from the radiator). Given that the engine is tuned and "modded", I didn't even try to engage Ford. I already lost the battle with them over a clutch failure at 23K. Ordered an N1 long block from Mountune, and I'll have it installed at a local shop. Around $10K, all said.

Question is why? Possibilities:
  • Tune (although I've floored it many times, including going up this same hill).
  • Oil additives in the Motorcraft oil (fair number of threads on this, I didn't take it seriously at the time)
  • Shell 93 was not actually 93 for some reason. In fact, I usually buy Sunoco 93, but I was in a hurry and stopped at a different station this time.
  • Oil starvation from uphill acceleration (note - oil was at upper level)
  • Crankshaft balancer. Talking to the Mountune guy, he said the crankshaft balancer is a known cause of thrown rods, typically #2, if there's any oil starvation. All their engines have the balancer deleted, and also have baffles in the oil pan to prevent starvation in these situations. I can't tell if it's #2 in my case, but probably either #2 or 3 given how the pan broke.

Other thoughts? The N1 engine has mildly upgraded internals, but unless I can rule out the tune, I'll be sticking with stock tune for now. Question for the community - I imagine putting in a new clutch would be relatively little additional work while the engine is out. Given that the first stock clutch died so early, would it be worth putting in a quality aftermarket clutch? I like the stock feel & engagement, don't want something really heavy & grabby, just reliable. Recommendations? TIA.
 

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Not sure why Jeffery deleted a post, but the problem is/was almost certainly LSPI and it is due to the motor oil. Even the Ford recommended oil is NOT good for Gasoline Turbo Direct Injection engines. You also do NOT need to run 5w50 oils in it. 5w30 is perfect for a street-driven car. The SP rated oils are available now, so just run a 5w30 SP synthetic oil and it will last long time Run the tune as well. I’ve popped 2 very low mileage GTDI engines, so I have a little experience as to the main causes.
 
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Probably LSPI. Although it’s weird there isn’t a pool of oil on the splash shield. But it could just be a weird camera effect.
 

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It has double posted twice today, no clue why.
Happens to me when I use the browser on my phone.

Really sorry to hear what happened to your RS @/Y\ , at the same time you make me worry about my own RS.

Here's one of the video I watched when I bought my RS and nags me all the time:


Might be the fumoto caused an issue? 😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Probably LSPI. Although it’s weird there isn’t a pool of oil on the splash shield. But it could just be a weird camera effect.
By the time the car got home & I took these pics, it had been towed twice (couldn't get a tow Sunday evening quickly when the incident occurred, so the police towed it, then had to tow it home). Pulling up on the truck tipped most of the oil out, and the rest soaked in. I've had the splash shield upright in the garage, and days later oil is still draining out of it!
 

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Shell fuel has additives and a few tuners don't recommend using it on their tunes.

But judging from the scenario, it could have been a combination of everything that caused LSPI.

I cross my fingers every time I drive this thing. Hope you get back on the road quick.
 

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Probably LSPI. Although it’s weird there isn’t a pool of oil on the splash shield. But it could just be a weird camera effect.
Yeah the fiber tray absorbs a LOT of oil, but the failure was near the rear, so the aiflow would suck it out under the car.
 

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Speaking from experience having the exact same thing happen to me at 9k, I went full insanity and went complete built engine, tranny, and upgraded the clutch. Just throw money in the pit and that frown will turn upside down in a second. Engine builds expect 6-8 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah the fiber tray absorbs a LOT of oil, but the failure was near the rear, so the aiflow would suck it out under the car.
Yes, exactly. Probably going close to 60mph when the blow-up occurred, and the back of the car got coated with oil.
 

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2016, 35K miles. Mods: CAI, oil CC, e-tuned by Randy @ Mountune. NGX LTR7IX plugs, almost new (<1000mi). Motorcraft 5w-50 oil, 4500 mi since change, ironically planned to change it the next day. Shell 93 gas. HG done ~10K mi. Car has always run great, no codes, no misfires, no rough idle, anything like that.

I'm driving home with some takeout from our fave Thai restaurant, come up behind two cars going pretty slow as they're beginning to climb a steep, long hill. As there's 2 lanes, I decide to pass (I'm hungry). In 4th, going about 40 mph, and rather than downshift into 3rd I give it enough gas to get somewhere in the 45-50 range (maybe 2700rpm?), then floor it. About 2 seconds later, BOOM, white smoke pouring out, no power. Pull over, pop the hood, and see a piece of metal, and immediately realize what happened.

Pics show how the rod broke the oil pan - quite the explosion. Doesn't seem to be any damage in the front of the engine (not leaking coolant from the radiator). Given that the engine is tuned and "modded", I didn't even try to engage Ford. I already lost the battle with them over a clutch failure at 23K. Ordered an N1 long block from Mountune, and I'll have it installed at a local shop. Around $10K, all said.

Question is why? Possibilities:
  • Tune (although I've floored it many times, including going up this same hill).
  • Oil additives in the Motorcraft oil (fair number of threads on this, I didn't take it seriously at the time)
  • Shell 93 was not actually 93 for some reason. In fact, I usually buy Sunoco 93, but I was in a hurry and stopped at a different station this time.
  • Oil starvation from uphill acceleration (note - oil was at upper level)
  • Crankshaft balancer. Talking to the Mountune guy, he said the crankshaft balancer is a known cause of thrown rods, typically #2, if there's any oil starvation. All their engines have the balancer deleted, and also have baffles in the oil pan to prevent starvation in these situations. I can't tell if it's #2 in my case, but probably either #2 or 3 given how the pan broke.

Other thoughts? The N1 engine has mildly upgraded internals, but unless I can rule out the tune, I'll be sticking with stock tune for now. Question for the community - I imagine putting in a new clutch would be relatively little additional work while the engine is out. Given that the first stock clutch died so early, would it be worth putting in a quality aftermarket clutch? I like the stock feel & engagement, don't want something really heavy & grabby, just reliable. Recommendations? TIA.
Nice description of events. What was the OAT at the time of the engine failure?

Ciao
 

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More than likely not the tune as those tend to show sooner than later so if that tune has been run for a while it’s more than likely not that.
Second probably not fuel being Shell I have run almost shell only in mine as it’s the busiest one by my house. Livernois said they seem to notice busy station no matter the brand are better no old fuel. Second part on that who the heck would let a tuner tune so close to the edge the additives could cause a boom. Sounds like a window in your block waiting to happen.
Most likely lspi now some tuners say they can help with it by watching the tunes. Now remember help not prevent.
I’ve logged more than 800k miles on tuned ecoboost engines all tuned and never had an issue and I drive it like a diesel 1800k wide open. All the time. Only ever ran amsoil which claims to be very good at lspi. So more likely it is you oil. I know my tune on the dyno was graphed from like 1500rpm but I would put my money on it being better oil for that issues.
 

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Yeah I stay away from Shell religiously, but also avoid any low end pulls. There's literally no need to put extra strain on it by not downshifting if you're gonna floor it anyways.
 

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Yeah I stay away from Shell religiously, but also avoid any low end pulls. There's literally no need to put extra strain on it by not downshifting if you're gonna floor it anyways.
Reason is because it’s so Awsome. Nothing like the pull from down low. Granted like you said it is a risk. But man do it love the feeling. Can’t say it’s ever done me wrong. All 3 of mine I run a lot of shell and low rpm pulls. Never an issue so I would lean towards the oil doing it.
 
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