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Discussion Starter #1
Installed FA500 coilovers + White front and rear swaybars + endlinks over the past month or so. Before I installed the swaybars/endlinks, I was experiencing a small rattle/clunk over minor road imperfections or speed bumps. Everything I read implied it was the endlinks... had the swaybar/end links installed + aligned professionally and it's still there. The endlinks were checked for tightness, but there's a potential that it's still the issue. Anyone have any ideas? See the two videos below for the noise.

20200509_161947.mp4

20200509_162119.mp4
 

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I would almost bet that it is the Sway Bar end links as I am having exactly the same problem myself with the Whiteline products.

I actually got under the front end of my car last week and tightened all of the end link nuts - it is hard to say to a specific torque as I could only get a spanner on the nut but I did them up as hard as I could and for several days the clunking went away however it has now returned.

I am now in the process of looking at some locking washers (Nord Lock) that I have read about on another forum and will install these as soon as I can get hold of them to see if this makes the difference.

Very frustrating situation as I thought there might be something else loose in the front end but I felt quite reassured after tightening them last week that I had identified the issue and that there should be a solution for this

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These type of issues are super hard to narrow down unfortunately. Are you able to reproduce the noise while the car isn't moving? Maybe have the car on a ramp and have somebody jump up and down on the door will while you look/listen around the area?
 

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I also have a slight rattle in the front. Everything is torqued and I’ve checked every bolt/nut thrice, including keeping the oem endlink and not using my whiteline ones. I have accepted there is some rattle because racecar
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I also have a slight rattle in the front. Everything is torqued and I’ve checked every bolt/nut thrice, including keeping the oem endlink and not using my whiteline ones. I have accepted there is some rattle because racecar
Yeah. I'm almost at that point as well. Everything I can think of (not including LCA bushings or steering rack) seems to be fine. I just want to make sure it's not something loose or wearing. I'm probably going to impact the strut a couple more times, check everything for tightness and call it a day.

It's hard because I am getting conflicting reports on the endlinks being too long or being too short. It's crazy.

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FA's come with their own endlinks that are much shorter than stock. You CANNOT use stock/WL endlinks with them as they are way too long and you will hit your steering rack rods. You can see how close it is in the picture, I'm surprised you have had the loud popping on some turns when they collide and pop past. This will also end up bending the tie rods.

But I have the same knocking issues. I thought it was the FA's, went back to stock, and it's still there. I'm pretty sure it's the steering rack itself, as others have had the same issues and got it replaced by ford. Here's one thing to test. Sit in the car with the engine off and quickly turn the steering wheel back and forth. Do you feel/hear the clunking like I do in my car?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
FA's come with their own endlinks that are much shorter than stock. You CANNOT use stock/WL endlinks with them as they are way too long and you will hit your steering rack rods. You can see how close it is in the picture, I'm surprised you have had the loud popping on some turns when they collide and pop past. This will also end up bending the tie rods.

But I have the same knocking issues. I thought it was the FA's, went back to stock, and it's still there. I'm pretty sure it's the steering rack itself, as others have had the same issues and got it replaced by ford. Here's one thing to test. Sit in the car with the engine off and quickly turn the steering wheel back and forth. Do you feel/hear the clunking like I do in my car?
Yeah. FA seems to think I need to go with something like Massive or their end links. Personally, I don't see how shortening those end links will help as I I don't get any major racking or clunks from bumps. It's only tiny tiny road imperfections or speed bumps and that leads me to believe in your theory of either steering rack or something like the LCA bushings. And I got the same sound on stock endlinks/sway bar as I do with the Whiteline. Same exact sound, same exact conditions.

I'll check the steering real quick.
 

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Yeah. FA seems to think I need to go with something like Massive or their end links. Personally, I don't see how shortening those end links will help as I I don't get any major racking or clunks from bumps. It's only tiny tiny road imperfections or speed bumps and that leads me to believe in your theory of either steering rack or something like the LCA bushings. And I got the same sound on stock endlinks/sway bar as I do with the Whiteline. Same exact sound, same exact conditions.

I'll check the steering real quick.
Massive are longer than WL endlinks at their lowest point. You should have received a pair of endlinks with your FA's, and they are a couple inches shorter than stock. The sway bar should be pointed up in relation to the tie rods, while your's is pointed down below it. Trust me, anything other than the FA endlinks are too long, and if you didn't get them with your coils, reach out to them. They have amazing support.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Massive are longer than WL endlinks at their lowest point. You should have received a pair of endlinks with your FA's, and they are a couple inches shorter than stock. The sway bar should be pointed up in relation to the tie rods, while your's is pointed down below it. Trust me, anything other than the FA endlinks are too long, and if you didn't get them with your coils, reach out to them. They have amazing support.
Got the coilovers second hand. No end links were included and I wasn't aware that was part of the deal so didn't make a fit about it. Also, I bought them with every intention of having them upgraded to 510's but decided to throw them on because I was tired of **** ride on stock suspension and everyone was saying the 510's were too track focused. I also went with WL because it came with the kit for the swaybars. Based on my discoveries today and your previous discussion, I'm leaning towards the noise being either the inner tie rod or the LCA bushings. See the linked video here:

20200512_132213.mp4

I'll definitely confirm whether or not the endlinks are clashing with the steering rack, but I don't think they're anywhere close to doing that based on how many times I've had this thing apart. Might even find a way to attach a camera down there to check it out.
 

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OK, so I am not sure how well you read my 1st post but I thought I would give a bit more information on my cars history that might help make your decision a bit easier, not that I am discounting some of the other advice the other people have given but you might see that from my experience that you may only need to take a fairly simple step to rectify this problem.


I am one of those people that have had to have this steering rack replaced under warranty. From very early on I noticed that there was a distinct rattle coming from the right hand side of my front end particularly when 'striking' the curb when driving into my driveway or generally hitting anything just with that 1 side of the car. It progressively became worse to the point that I could hear it quite significantly when driving along rougher roads. It is something that I mentioned to my Dealer when taking the car in for servicing on several occasions and each time they said they went under the car and checked everything for tightness, bearing in mind that my car was completely standard at this stage.


It eventually became bad enough that I asked them to follow up more closely and they undertook a process of replacing various parts to test to see where the problem might be coming from including replacing the lower control arm and right shock assembly. They had already been through the process of disconnecting the swaybar end links and the problem still remained. Eventually they ended up replacing the steering rack and the problem went away - so obviously this was the faulty part.


At some point I then had them install the Whiteline lowering Springs and got them to use the Whiteline swaybar end links (but not the bar). I had no particular problems with this whilst the original swaybar was still in place.


More recently I had them install the full Whiteline front swaybar during a service and when I picked the car up it drove fine, no noises to be heard. Within a couple of hundred km I started to notice a knocking sound coming from the left hand front of my car. Obviously I was not very happy with this as I was fearful that it might be the steering rack going bad again so I decided to get under the car and have a look at what might be going on for myself. This was only last week.


What I noticed was that the ball joint attaching the lower link end to the swaybar was not tight, so as per my original post this is where I proceeded to tighten this up using a spanner and 5mm allen socket. I tightened this as hard as I physically could tighten it. On driving the car after this it had gone back to as it was when I first picked it up from the Dealer as a new car - no noises and a pleasure to drive.


However once again within several hundred km the knocking noise has come back so this morning I decided to reach under the car to see if I was able to tighten the lower sway bar link again. What I noticed was that the nut has gone noticeably loose again, not so bad that it is coming off the ball joint completely but definitely loose. Unfortunately using only a spanner I was unable to tighten it as I could not lock the other end using the allen socket - this is a wheel off job.


So therefore in my experience the knocking is simply coming from the loose sway bar end link which is obviously not retaining its tightness due to the nut and washer configuration that is supplied by Whiteline.


My recommendation to you would be to get under your car and have a look for several things:

-Are there any marks on the swaybar or steering tie rods where it looks like there has been contact - if there are no marks then I would suggest it's highly unlikely that they have been hitting each other. There was certainly no evidence on my sway bar of it hitting at any point - it looked brand new

-Is the nut on the end of the swaybar link able to turn and therefore too loose? If so tighten this up then take it for another drive and see if the knocking noise has changed

-If you are convinced that the swaybar end links are fully tightened to the swaybar and shock mount point then I would go looking for another issue.

-as for turning the steering wheel from side to side when the car is stationary and listening for a knock then I can guarantee that you will definitely hear something as my car did it immediately following the replacement steering rack and the new vehicles that were sitting in the showroom also did it when my Dealer tested them when I was first having my steering rack problems - it seems that this is a noise that is within the steering column and is to be expected for the vehicle


I hope this all helps and solves your problem or if not maybe one of the other guys has the solution for you

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK, so I am not sure how well you read my 1st post but I thought I would give a bit more information on my cars history that might help make your decision a bit easier, not that I am discounting some of the other advice the other people have given but you might see that from my experience that you may only need to take a fairly simple step to rectify this problem.


I am one of those people that have had to have this steering rack replaced under warranty. From very early on I noticed that there was a distinct rattle coming from the right hand side of my front end particularly when 'striking' the curb when driving into my driveway or generally hitting anything just with that 1 side of the car. It progressively became worse to the point that I could hear it quite significantly when driving along rougher roads. It is something that I mentioned to my Dealer when taking the car in for servicing on several occasions and each time they said they went under the car and checked everything for tightness, bearing in mind that my car was completely standard at this stage.


It eventually became bad enough that I asked them to follow up more closely and they undertook a process of replacing various parts to test to see where the problem might be coming from including replacing the lower control arm and right shock assembly. They had already been through the process of disconnecting the swaybar end links and the problem still remained. Eventually they ended up replacing the steering rack and the problem went away - so obviously this was the faulty part.


At some point I then had them install the Whiteline lowering Springs and got them to use the Whiteline swaybar end links (but not the bar). I had no particular problems with this whilst the original swaybar was still in place.


More recently I had them install the full Whiteline front swaybar during a service and when I picked the car up it drove fine, no noises to be heard. Within a couple of hundred km I started to notice a knocking sound coming from the left hand front of my car. Obviously I was not very happy with this as I was fearful that it might be the steering rack going bad again so I decided to get under the car and have a look at what might be going on for myself. This was only last week.


What I noticed was that the ball joint attaching the lower link end to the swaybar was not tight, so as per my original post this is where I proceeded to tighten this up using a spanner and 5mm allen socket. I tightened this as hard as I physically could tighten it. On driving the car after this it had gone back to as it was when I first picked it up from the Dealer as a new car - no noises and a pleasure to drive.


However once again within several hundred km the knocking noise has come back so this morning I decided to reach under the car to see if I was able to tighten the lower sway bar link again. What I noticed was that the nut has gone noticeably loose again, not so bad that it is coming off the ball joint completely but definitely loose. Unfortunately using only a spanner I was unable to tighten it as I could not lock the other end using the allen socket - this is a wheel off job.


So therefore in my experience the knocking is simply coming from the loose sway bar end link which is obviously not retaining its tightness due to the nut and washer configuration that is supplied by Whiteline.


My recommendation to you would be to get under your car and have a look for several things:

-Are there any marks on the swaybar or steering tie rods where it looks like there has been contact - if there are no marks then I would suggest it's highly unlikely that they have been hitting each other. There was certainly no evidence on my sway bar of it hitting at any point - it looked brand new

-Is the nut on the end of the swaybar link able to turn and therefore too loose? If so tighten this up then take it for another drive and see if the knocking noise has changed

-If you are convinced that the swaybar end links are fully tightened to the swaybar and shock mount point then I would go looking for another issue.

-as for turning the steering wheel from side to side when the car is stationary and listening for a knock then I can guarantee that you will definitely hear something as my car did it immediately following the replacement steering rack and the new vehicles that were sitting in the showroom also did it when my Dealer tested them when I was first having my steering rack problems - it seems that this is a noise that is within the steering column and is to be expected for the vehicle

I hope this all helps and solves your problem or if not maybe one of the other guys has the solution for you

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Thanks, I'm definitely planning on looking into the sway bar end links. I'm just trying to catalog all the things it could be so I only have to go through the list once. I'd rather do it that way than go back and forth after every check. It seems now many are saying the slack and noise is normal in the steering column. We'll see. I had an incident in the snow a year or so ago where that side struck a curb. It only superficially damaged the wheel and everything else appeared OK, but that may have introduced some early onset wear with either the rack or the tie rods. Swapping everything out could have exacerbated it. I'll dig around.

Thanks for the ideas.
 

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No problems, I appreciate that you are trying to find out as much information as you can and I am simply wanting to share my experience with you so that you don't waste your time on something that might not be the real problem

So I pulled the front wheel off tonight and took off the nut securing the lower link to the swaybar, which as you can see has some knurling on the back side of it and this seems to have had some difficulty in getting good purchase on the sway bar due to the painted surface

Ideally this knurling should bite into the metal and stop the nut from becoming loose but I suspect that it has not been doing it's job properly hence why after tightening it is working itself free again and resulting in the knocking

I have reinstalled the nut tonight with a spring washer and some thread lock but have run out of time to take it for a test drive so will do this on my way to work tomorrow morning and let you know my outcome

I've also attached some other photos that show the orientation of the sway bar in relation to the tie rod and that there is clearly enough space for both these items to move without any interaction, and certainly no evidence that they have been touching each other


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Discussion Starter #13
No problems, I appreciate that you are trying to find out as much information as you can and I am simply wanting to share my experience with you so that you don't waste your time on something that might not be the real problem

So I pulled the front wheel off tonight and took off the nut securing the lower link to the swaybar, which as you can see has some knurling on the back side of it and this seems to have had some difficulty in getting good purchase on the sway bar due to the painted surface

Ideally this knurling should bite into the metal and stop the nut from becoming loose but I suspect that it has not been doing it's job properly hence why after tightening it is working itself free again and resulting in the knocking

I have reinstalled the nut tonight with a spring washer and some thread lock but have run out of time to take it for a test drive so will do this on my way to work tomorrow morning and let you know my outcome

I've also attached some other photos that show the orientation of the sway bar in relation to the tie rod and that there is clearly enough space for both these items to move without any interaction, and certainly no evidence that they have been touching each other


Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
You should have washers for both sides. My set came with 4 sets of washers per end link. And are you on stock struts and springs?
 

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The whiteline endlinks suck. My front/rear ones were missing washers. They lose their torque etc and rattle. Zero help from customer service
 

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there is an entire thread dedicated to how much the whiteline endlinks suck. and yes grade 8 washers and blue loctite were used.

there is a reason they sit in the bottom of my tool chest now
 

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What would you guys recommend for end links? Sway bars are my next upgrade.

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there is an entire thread dedicated to how much the whiteline endlinks suck. and yes grade 8 washers and blue loctite were used.

there is a reason they sit in the bottom of my tool chest now
Huh, I realized that what I wrote could come across like me being an ass. My bad. I suppose sometimes parts just suck regardless of what you do.
 
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