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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sad that I can use those tires in Street Class for Auto-x. Could a year ago, but now Street Class requires tw >= 200 rating. At least the stock tires are good for Street class.
 

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From what I've always been told the tread wear rating is proprietary and more of a guide for cross shopping within the companies tires and not different companies. When they came out with this restriction I never really understood it due to this, not to mention if your vehicle can be equipped with tires from the factory they should be able to run.
 

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The OEM tires on the Fiesta ST are now too low for Autox. Bridgestone Potenza RE050a, 140 tread wear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The OEM tires on the Fiesta ST are now too low for Autox. Bridgestone Potenza RE050a, 140 tread wear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Interesting, I'll have to look at that Festiva ST's tires at next race that was 2nd in PAX last weekend.

I rechecked the rules for Street and I think section 13.3.C.1 allows for the OE tires under 200tw at regional events. Maybe that would include OE optional if on the car when delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Auto-X is close to home and better budget match for me. I've worked VIR a few times (with and without Oak Tree), need to do that more, but not run there. Want to do a PDX or something one day, but would likely use my other car as I have many spare parts already if I go way off.
 

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Ok, I see where you are coming from and am going to be honest with my response. If you are worried about the $300-$500 track day fee and $1,000 prep then you probably shouldn't be looking at an RS. VIR is a phenomenal track, even the left hand kink headed down the hill before the site the oak tree was...I went off there a few times, and their is no reason that you should not start with a track day at VIR. Just be smart with you $$ and don't overstretch. I see 10 year old WRX's and Miatas passing AMG Mercs because the Merc owner is so timid on track because he/she knows they overspent and is too worried about messing up their car OR they didnt have the money to prep it at all and its overheating/brakes on fire/ tires melting etc.

P.S. The Miatas and WRXs are all like $5k off of craigslist with $1k in parts...an RS is like having 6ish of those - just make sure that's worth it to you and you checking account.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
RS will be worth it for me. Can swing it, but if car got wrecked at a track like that no way I could pay for another. Day job lets me loan myself money from my 401k, right now there is enough in there than that self loan could pay for the car and upgrades and no interest fee (and if market goes down while repaying loan to self even better). I plan to play in Auto-x Street class with it at least until official warranty is done, even though if they were anal auto-x could void it I think. After that, I'll just have to judge if I think I'm missing out on a lot of fun doing just auto-x. Right now I pay about $260 a year for auto-x events with 10+ events and 6 runs per event. This is the car for me, just my goals may be different from others as time is valuable to me. Auto-x is 1 day invested, track day would be 3 for me. I did run an auto-x event at CMP that it was a blast, but more or less destroyed the tires with 2 drivers.

I don't think I would be too timid, another reason for the older car that I have many years driving and know very well. All I would want on it from what I have now would be Hoosier R6 225/50R13 instead of my current Hoosier A6 255/40R13(F) 225/45R13(R) setup. I already have the extra wheels. Just need truck, trailer and time.

Besides, if people are going to run vettes at auto-x no reason not to let the RS loose there too.
 

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RS will be worth it for me. Can swing it, but if car got wrecked at a track like that no way I could pay for another. Day job lets me loan myself money from my 401k, right now there is enough in there than that self loan could pay for the car and upgrades and no interest fee (and if market goes down while repaying loan to self even better). I plan to play in Auto-x Street class with it at least until official warranty is done, even though if they were anal auto-x could void it I think. After that, I'll just have to judge if I think I'm missing out on a lot of fun doing just auto-x. Right now I pay about $260 a year for auto-x events with 10+ events and 6 runs per event. This is the car for me, just my goals may be different from others as time is valuable to me. Auto-x is 1 day invested, track day would be 3 for me. I did run an auto-x event at CMP that it was a blast, but more or less destroyed the tires with 2 drivers.

I don't think I would be too timid, another reason for the older car that I have many years driving and know very well. All I would want on it from what I have now would be Hoosier R6 225/50R13 instead of my current Hoosier A6 255/40R13(F) 225/45R13(R) setup. I already have the extra wheels. Just need truck, trailer and time.

Besides, if people are going to run vettes at auto-x no reason not to let the RS loose there too.
Wait, what?!? I just realized that you are raiding your 401K for an RS. Did you think this through? Lets just go with $40K for the RS (forget fees, taxes, etc) and a yearly rate of return of 6% in your 401K. Lets assume your 30 and plan on retiring at 55, that puts you 25 years from retirement. All of that lumped together, and the assumption that you will pay back the $40K within 4 years means that when your retire at 55 you will have $43,995 less than you would if you kept the 40K in there for that 4 years. If your planning on repaying it in any period over 4 years that number begins to skyrocket. Please think that one through, an auto loan at 1.5-2% makes a ton more sense if your monthly budget allows.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My 401 is in a volatile area anyway, if I sell off x shares to get 40k and loan myself the money, then if the market goes down and I buy back at lower rates I can end up with more shares than x from the 40k I pay back, not to mention they force me to pay myself 4% interest. In a way you can use the loans if taken and repaid with good timing to get more contributions when market is in favor than you can normally pay directly from base pay. Until I move that money to more secure areas its all a gamble. 401 loan is only if needed, but I don't think it will be, already talking to dealer about ways to get 0% financing so there would be no point to the 401k part. But it is there if needed, well wanted since I don't actually need the FoRS and just want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The OEM tires on the Fiesta ST are now too low for Autox. Bridgestone Potenza RE050a, 140 tread wear


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Updated, they are too low for National events, but ok for regional events. Rule 13.3.C.1 allows for them, makes sense to not make someone buy new tires for regionals but at the national level cost for legal tires should not be an issue.
 

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So the cup tires..... one day of auto cross and they're gone? 2000milez of moderate driving and it time for new?
 

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Come on now...did you think sticky tires are supposed to last!! Their soul point is to stick, keep the car going where you point it.

If you want to drift, go with the cheap stuff, higher treadwell numbers will have you sliding farther if that's what you're in to.

Don't you think they would do better drifting without the cup 2's
 

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From what I've always been told the tread wear rating is proprietary and more of a guide for cross shopping within the companies tires and not different companies. When they came out with this restriction I never really understood it due to this, not to mention if your vehicle can be equipped with tires from the factory they should be able to run.
Tread wear numbers...low=soft compound, high=harder compound = more milage per set. What kind of performance you might expect to achieve from them.

Most oem tires are chosen for the specific driving style of the vehicle in question. Family cars want safety, comfort and milage from as set.(220-280) Sports cars want max handling, grip, not as much concern for life span.(120-180)Track tires...depends on the track and length of race.

So you guys that are ordering cup2.....you're buying grip not life span.....

Oh yeah street class is just that...basic street tires...don't sticky tires put you in Prepared?
 

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Ok, I see where you are coming from and am going to be honest with my response. If you are worried about the $300-$500 track day fee and $1,000 prep then you probably shouldn't be looking at an RS. VIR is a phenomenal track, even the left hand kink headed down the hill before the site the oak tree was...I went off there a few times, and their is no reason that you should not start with a track day at VIR. Just be smart with you $$ and don't overstretch. I see 10 year old WRX's and Miatas passing AMG Mercs because the Merc owner is so timid on track because he/she knows they overspent and is too worried about messing up their car OR they didnt have the money to prep it at all and its overheating/brakes on fire/ tires melting etc.

P.S. The Miatas and WRXs are all like $5k off of craigslist with $1k in parts...an RS is like having 6ish of those - just make sure that's worth it to you and you checking account.

Wrong wrong wrong. The RS will be an amazing DD that you CAN track. You will not have to to enjoy this car. Mine will not see track duty for a long time more than likely.

However if you plan on using it as a track car and those fees scare you, well then yea get a cheaper track car. But dont not get an RS because the track you may never see is not cheap.
 

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If you are worried about the $300-$500 track day fee and $1,000 prep then you probably shouldn't be looking at an RS.
So in order to own an RS you must be financially able to piss away $1500 for a track day and be willing to take a $40,000 loss when you wreck it?

I'm gonna disagree with you there. If that's what you want to do by all means go for it, but it's silly to assume you that only people who plan on using this as a disposable track car should be buying it. Maybe what you meant is...

"If you are worried about the $300-$500 track day fee and $1,000 prep then you probably shouldn't be tracking an RS."
 

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Guys,

This was not intended to be a flame war. The last line of my post is what I was getting at:

"Just make sure that's worth it to you and you[r] checking account"

My point here is this: Is buying a performance car to DD and autoX a good return on investment to you? I club race a small formula car and DD/autoX/track my ST, I feel that I am getting a good return on the money I spend although the total investment is more than what an RS would cost; however, I know of people who own new C7 Corvettes that drive them in stop and go traffic on Sundays and have never even heard of a track day. I prefer my set-up but I'm sure these C7 owners are just as happy as I am even if I wouldn't be in their situation.

No one can tell another person what makes them happy. Although I have a personal opinion that not tracking a RS is a misuse of money (hence my earlier recommendation of a DD and then a dedicated track day car), anyone who is able to find a similar amount of enjoyment in their car as a DD should not be discouraged from buying an RS.
 

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You could track the RS without any prep from the showroom floor if you really wanted too...the engineers have stated it was made to withstand 30 minutes of track time, that's brakes included...

I intended to do exactly what I've done with my ST for the past 75k miles, serves as my DD and weekend track car. The RS was built and designed to do this, not to drop an extra $1k to prep in order to make it ready for a weekend at the track. The ST has been great but the RS will be much much much better. There's a Cup tire option for that very reason!

Here's my track weekend cost/setup/etc:

-Carbotech XP12's up front roughly $250 - should last a season
-Bleed the brakes
-Throw on my 18x9 Team Dynamics wrapped with 245/40 Michelin Cup 2 tires I won (thanks #michelinsweeps) should last a season

Additional cost for the season
-Track insurance roughly $1200 for a season
-Track day entry fee's
-Diff fluid possibly
-Dot 4 Brake Fluid
-Oil changes after each track weekend
 

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My 401 is in a volatile area anyway, if I sell off x shares to get 40k and loan myself the money, then if the market goes down and I buy back at lower rates I can end up with more shares than x from the 40k I pay back, not to mention they force me to pay myself 4% interest. In a way you can use the loans if taken and repaid with good timing to get more contributions when market is in favor than you can normally pay directly from base pay. Until I move that money to more secure areas its all a gamble. 401 loan is only if needed, but I don't think it will be, already talking to dealer about ways to get 0% financing so there would be no point to the 401k part. But it is there if needed, well wanted since I don't actually need the FoRS and just want it.
While it can work out in your favor, it rarely does. The market has to go to **** for it to work out. I could buy many RS's if I raided investments but I would never do that. I make way more on that money than the interest on the car loan will cost.

Also, for HPDEs you can get HPDE insurance. Not super cheap, but cheaper than an RS. I'll get it for the few events I do with the RS which will basically be when I don't feel like towing one of the other cars to the track.
 
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