Sad that I can use those tires in Street Class for Auto-x. Could a year ago, but now Street Class requires tw >= 200 rating. At least the stock tires are good for Street class.
Interesting, I'll have to look at that Festiva ST's tires at next race that was 2nd in PAX last weekend.The OEM tires on the Fiesta ST are now too low for Autox. Bridgestone Potenza RE050a, 140 tread wear
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Wait, what?!? I just realized that you are raiding your 401K for an RS. Did you think this through? Lets just go with $40K for the RS (forget fees, taxes, etc) and a yearly rate of return of 6% in your 401K. Lets assume your 30 and plan on retiring at 55, that puts you 25 years from retirement. All of that lumped together, and the assumption that you will pay back the $40K within 4 years means that when your retire at 55 you will have $43,995 less than you would if you kept the 40K in there for that 4 years. If your planning on repaying it in any period over 4 years that number begins to skyrocket. Please think that one through, an auto loan at 1.5-2% makes a ton more sense if your monthly budget allows.RS will be worth it for me. Can swing it, but if car got wrecked at a track like that no way I could pay for another. Day job lets me loan myself money from my 401k, right now there is enough in there than that self loan could pay for the car and upgrades and no interest fee (and if market goes down while repaying loan to self even better). I plan to play in Auto-x Street class with it at least until official warranty is done, even though if they were anal auto-x could void it I think. After that, I'll just have to judge if I think I'm missing out on a lot of fun doing just auto-x. Right now I pay about $260 a year for auto-x events with 10+ events and 6 runs per event. This is the car for me, just my goals may be different from others as time is valuable to me. Auto-x is 1 day invested, track day would be 3 for me. I did run an auto-x event at CMP that it was a blast, but more or less destroyed the tires with 2 drivers.
I don't think I would be too timid, another reason for the older car that I have many years driving and know very well. All I would want on it from what I have now would be Hoosier R6 225/50R13 instead of my current Hoosier A6 255/40R13(F) 225/45R13(R) setup. I already have the extra wheels. Just need truck, trailer and time.
Besides, if people are going to run vettes at auto-x no reason not to let the RS loose there too.
Updated, they are too low for National events, but ok for regional events. Rule 13.3.C.1 allows for them, makes sense to not make someone buy new tires for regionals but at the national level cost for legal tires should not be an issue.The OEM tires on the Fiesta ST are now too low for Autox. Bridgestone Potenza RE050a, 140 tread wear
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Tread wear numbers...low=soft compound, high=harder compound = more milage per set. What kind of performance you might expect to achieve from them.From what I've always been told the tread wear rating is proprietary and more of a guide for cross shopping within the companies tires and not different companies. When they came out with this restriction I never really understood it due to this, not to mention if your vehicle can be equipped with tires from the factory they should be able to run.
Ok, I see where you are coming from and am going to be honest with my response. If you are worried about the $300-$500 track day fee and $1,000 prep then you probably shouldn't be looking at an RS. VIR is a phenomenal track, even the left hand kink headed down the hill before the site the oak tree was...I went off there a few times, and their is no reason that you should not start with a track day at VIR. Just be smart with you $$ and don't overstretch. I see 10 year old WRX's and Miatas passing AMG Mercs because the Merc owner is so timid on track because he/she knows they overspent and is too worried about messing up their car OR they didnt have the money to prep it at all and its overheating/brakes on fire/ tires melting etc.
P.S. The Miatas and WRXs are all like $5k off of craigslist with $1k in parts...an RS is like having 6ish of those - just make sure that's worth it to you and you checking account.
So in order to own an RS you must be financially able to piss away $1500 for a track day and be willing to take a $40,000 loss when you wreck it?If you are worried about the $300-$500 track day fee and $1,000 prep then you probably shouldn't be looking at an RS.
While it can work out in your favor, it rarely does. The market has to go to **** for it to work out. I could buy many RS's if I raided investments but I would never do that. I make way more on that money than the interest on the car loan will cost.My 401 is in a volatile area anyway, if I sell off x shares to get 40k and loan myself the money, then if the market goes down and I buy back at lower rates I can end up with more shares than x from the 40k I pay back, not to mention they force me to pay myself 4% interest. In a way you can use the loans if taken and repaid with good timing to get more contributions when market is in favor than you can normally pay directly from base pay. Until I move that money to more secure areas its all a gamble. 401 loan is only if needed, but I don't think it will be, already talking to dealer about ways to get 0% financing so there would be no point to the 401k part. But it is there if needed, well wanted since I don't actually need the FoRS and just want it.