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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone thought out any audio upgrades they plan on doing? Any specific speakers you're looking at? Specific woffer? Ported or sealed? I was thinking speakers first, see how that sounds. Then a new amp. Then new sub/amp. Head unit staying stock and run a nice line output converter. Currently have 2 12" type Rs, will probably go to a single sub set up in the RS to save trunk space (if I go as far as a new sub).



Also does anyone know all the sizes? I've looked online and it seems to be mixed. Looks like the front and rear doors are 6 1/2 with an unknown size tweeter, a 3 1/2 center, and an 8 inch woffer with a 9 channel amp pushing everything at just under 400w.
 

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I will be curious what you come up with!
I just want to be able to play Google Play through the system from my android phone without wires, loud enough to hear over the sound of the car. Couple detachable subs in the back that I can take out when I need to move stuff would be nice. I do prefer people to glare at me because of the volume of my car itself over the volume of my music. Sony is not my favorite company for audio but I will let the stock have a chance before i think about gutting it.

The versions of Sync were not too friendly with Apple products but I do not know about Android and the Sync 3 for ease of connectivity.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is my trunk at the moment, so I'm with you on a detachable sub! Excited to get a usable trunk for once in the RS :D 059.JPG !
 
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I'd like to know how you'll improve it as I thought the amp wasn't upgradable. I've always been disappointed by the sound system in my ST which is just adequate.
 

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I'd like to know how you'll improve it as I thought the amp wasn't upgradable. I've always been disappointed by the sound system in my ST which is just adequate.
if you upgrade your system the amp becomes obsolete. if you want to reuse the stock HU, get a harness adapter (scosche), tap into the speaker leads (on the harness adapter) for the front and rear mains, connect them to a line out converter. run rca's from the loc to your amp or amps, run power, ground, remote on, speaker wire, etc...

so I guess you are correct, the stock amp is not upgradeable. ;)
 

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if you upgrade your system the amp becomes obsolete. if you want to reuse the stock HU, get a harness adapter (scosche), tap into the speaker leads (on the harness adapter) for the front and rear mains, connect them to a line out converter. run rca's from the loc to your amp or amps, run power, ground, remote on, speaker wire, etc...

so I guess you are correct, the stock amp is not upgradeable. ;)
But that means killing MFT system and possibly integrated controls too?
 

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When I bought my ST I knew I would be getting rid of it for the RS and didn't bother putting my system in. I like the extra space but really miss the high quality sound, especially with some good rock. The Sony system can be really lacking at times. I sold most of my stuff but still have a 10W7 in a sealed box so I may do that along with some Focal K2 components. I could always do a JL HD 900/5 and just have one some what compact amp to run everything, but that W7 loves juice so 2 amps will still be the best thing for it.

There are tools out there that should let you keep MFT and everything intact providing a Hi V output for RCAs to your amp and also a digital sound processor.
AudioControl DQ-61 (Blue) Factory sound processor with equalization and time delay at Crutchfield.com
 

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that thing is bad ass. the loc game has come a long way since my last factory hu system i installed in 2010.
400 is steep but ill figure out how to justify expense when im dead
LOL there are cheaper ones too, it just depends how crazy you want to go. I think they have basic ones that still process sound for around 300 and they go from there. You still want a sound processor though just due to the way factory head units alter frequencies and when hooked up to an amp it gets way worse. I will say I have had some friends that used just an RCA output converter and did work ok just for a sub, I would not try it with any type of speakers though.

They have something like this for $100, but it is just a converter a good one, but won't help with the poor quality of the factory unit.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/AudioControl-LC2i.html?tp=61671
 

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I'm not sure if I will bother.

Although I do have a CDT SQ sub, a couple Audison and a McIntosh amp laying around. Used to run the Mac to power the front stage (2 way active), audison for rear fill (sometimes, I usuall prefer no rear fill), and a mono audison for the sub.

Not a huge bass guy though so I just ran a SQ focused 8" in a sealed box and sent 350W RMS to it.
 

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I'm probably going to upgrade to the speakers to German Maestro... We have them in our 1984 VW Westfalia and they sound great... I'll see what else they recommend when it comes time to do it... Not all that fond of the Sony speakers in my wife's ST (ST3).
 

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The Sony system is absolutely terrible. If I make it over 1 week before tearing it out and burning it I'd be surprised.


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The Sony system is absolutely terrible. If I make it over 1 week before tearing it out and burning it I'd be surprised.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So what extent are you going to replace ?

(0) Dynamat to reduce outside sounds ? to what extent?
(1) New speakers? Front Plane only ? All speakers plus sub? what brand?
(2) New amplifiers ?
(3) New wiring ?
(4) New head unit? if so, do you plan to integrate it into Sync3 and steering wheel controls ?

YMMV,

MidCow3



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Most likely numbers 0-3. I'll likely go with a bit ten and audison speakers but it's still a ways off so I haven't made my final decisions. I've just been severely disappointed with the audio on my ST. I'm also someone who cares more about music than cars.


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Most likely numbers 0-3. I'll likely go with a bit ten and audison speakers but it's still a ways off so I haven't made my final decisions. I've just been severely disappointed with the audio on my ST. I'm also someone who cares more about music than cars.


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I am sure you are right but I really really hope I dont hate it to the degree of needing to change it asap. In an ideal world Id figure out a way to stick a 12 in the back, but I did buy a hatch for the space and a ported 12 is hard to hide. please sony dont disappoint!
 

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lymerock,

You'd like my SVS PB-12 Plus in my home theater system :cool:

YMMV,

MidCow3
considering my current home system is a soundbar with a sloppy sounding 8" i am sure you are right.
my home theater amp crapoed the bed and ive been too lburried in other things to do much about it. for now the 12 lays dormant
 

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The system appears to be the same as the system that was in my ST so I can give you my thoughts. The stock system is honestly not that bad. Most people will find it acceptable. I upgraded my system for two reasons.

First the stock system is simply not loud enough. I know most people will scoff at that, but honestly it's much quieter than most stock systems. My 2011 Focus SES had a much louder system with only 4 speakers vs. 10.

Second, the bass is decent but just not the same as with my 10" sub. I missed real, full bass. Someone sells a replacement for the stock sub encoulsure that fits in roughly the same area, but it's ridiculously expensive. I think it was like $700. Found it.

I put in some Rockford Fosgate amps and I'm running Polk MoMos. Honestly I love these speakers, they're bright without being harsh. One word of caution. I put in class D amps for my sub and my speakers. For the speakers I advise you to use something other than class D. When that amp is on it creates a lot of interference with my FM reception. Now for about half of my commute I don't get my favorite HD station. I'm thinking maybe I can put some ferrite beads on the speaker wires, but I'm not sure if that will help. I probably should have just stuck with a larger A/B amp, but I wanted the small form factor of the D.

Sorry lymerock, you CANNOT remove the factory amp. Sync sounds like button presses are generated in the factory amp. The MFT head unit sends a CAN message to the amp to play certain sounds. Also volume control is done in the same manner. Unless you have a some unit that hooks into the factory CAN network you will lose volume control via the head unit. The AudioControl unit that you posted does not appear to do that. I have the cheaper LC7i in my ST but that's just for the LOC, input summing and bass restoration. It looks like this unit only adds EQ on top of that.

What I've done is run the outputs from the factory amp to the Lc7i and then run those to my own amps. This is pretty much the only way to do it. The front speakers have a low/high pass filter applied to them because there is separate wiring for the woofers and tweeters. So you have to get a full range signal from the rears because those are wired with one run and passive filters at the speakers. This is where the input summing comes in on the LC7i. Another FYI with the stock amp you have to use load resistors otherwise the amp burns out some sort of low pass filter and high frequency noise ends up melting tweeters.

Upgrading the stock system is a lot of work unfortunately, but it was worth it. Now I just have to track down the rattles that were created from adding all the extra juice to the speakers.
 

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The system appears to be the same as the system that was in my ST so I can give you my thoughts. The stock system is honestly not that bad. Most people will find it acceptable. I upgraded my system for two reasons.

First the stock system is simply not loud enough. I know most people will scoff at that, but honestly it's much quieter than most stock systems. My 2011 Focus SES had a much louder system with only 4 speakers vs. 10.

Second, the bass is decent but just not the same as with my 10" sub. I missed real, full bass. Someone sells a replacement for the stock sub encoulsure that fits in roughly the same area, but it's ridiculously expensive. I think it was like $700. Found it.

I put in some Rockford Fosgate amps and I'm running Polk MoMos. Honestly I love these speakers, they're bright without being harsh. One word of caution. I put in class D amps for my sub and my speakers. For the speakers I advise you to use something other than class D. When that amp is on it creates a lot of interference with my FM reception. Now for about half of my commute I don't get my favorite HD station. I'm thinking maybe I can put some ferrite beads on the speaker wires, but I'm not sure if that will help. I probably should have just stuck with a larger A/B amp, but I wanted the small form factor of the D.

Sorry lymerock, you CANNOT remove the factory amp. Sync sounds like button presses are generated in the factory amp. The MFT head unit sends a CAN message to the amp to play certain sounds. Also volume control is done in the same manner. Unless you have a some unit that hooks into the factory CAN network you will lose volume control via the head unit. The AudioControl unit that you posted does not appear to do that. I have the cheaper LC7i in my ST but that's just for the LOC, input summing and bass restoration. It looks like this unit only adds EQ on top of that.

What I've done is run the outputs from the factory amp to the Lc7i and then run those to my own amps. This is pretty much the only way to do it. The front speakers have a low/high pass filter applied to them because there is separate wiring for the woofers and tweeters. So you have to get a full range signal from the rears because those are wired with one run and passive filters at the speakers. This is where the input summing comes in on the LC7i. Another FYI with the stock amp you have to use load resistors otherwise the amp burns out some sort of low pass filter and high frequency noise ends up melting tweeters.

Upgrading the stock system is a lot of work unfortunately, but it was worth it. Now I just have to track down the rattles that were created from adding all the extra juice to the speakers.
Xicutioner,

Did you install any Dynamat ? Very nice write-up; I love great sound :cool:


YMMV,

MidCow3



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Xicutioner,

Did you install any Dynamat ? Very nice write-up; I love great sound :cool:


YMMV,

MidCow3
No, I had already spent a small fortune and I didn't want to add any more weight than I already did. I used a frequency generator app on my phone paired via bluetooth and I leveled out the system as best I could. When I did that I found several resonant frequencies that were hitting certain parts in the door panels. Some weekend when I have some spare time I'm going to tear the doors apart again and see if some soft side velcro will fix this. This is what I did for my ghetto basement theater and it actually works really well for fixing hot spots. Obviously, it wont help at all with road noise but I'd rather not add 20+ pounds in sound deadening. I can live with road noise, but the rattles are actually pretty irritating.

I should mention the ST is MFT and is NOT Sync 3. They may have changed how the amplifier hooks up, but I'm just guessing that they didn't since it's still the Sony system.
 
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