Ford Focus RS Forum banner

Overrev on new RS...Concerned?

21K views 25 replies 20 participants last post by  bofus  
#1 ·
Hypothetically, if one were to entirely miss a shift (not money shift) and nail the 8k rev limiter under no load (in neutral) for 0.5-1.0 second or so? Asking for a friend

My friends car threw a CEL immediately ("engine fault service now") and went into limp mode after this. He limped it home and didn't drive it for the rest of the day. When he went to start it the next day, the car drove absolutely fine and had no loss of power or funny noises; no CEL either. If anything, his idle was subjectively rougher. Peace of mind or thoughts for a buddy?
 
#4 ·
Something else is wrong if you were in neutral revving above the 6800 rev-limiter. the ECU wont let the engine rev that high under it's own load. are you sure it was 8k? the ECU should not let the engine spin that fast in neutral. basically the only way to get the engine spinning that fast is to mechanically over rev
 
  • Like
Reactions: Paolo
#9 · (Edited)
Incorrect I'm afraid. The rev limiter will act at the appropriate time to prevent an overrev under load or an engine taken to reline in neutral. However it's entirely possible and also probable that it wont if you're at WOT near redline and miss a shift. The engine inertia will take it way past the redline even when the ecu has killed the spark and/or fuel depending on the system it uses.
The harder it's pulling and faster it's approaching redline when you miss the shift the more likely it will overrev and the greater the magnitude will be. The rev limiter is not an engine brake, it can only control ignition and fuel it cant arrest all that mechanical kynetic energy when the load is instantly removed.

Ciao
 
#5 ·
It's called over boost. A good tuner like ford knows how to write an ecu. Most other tuner will blow your engine and then blame you
 
#8 ·


Back on topic....

I remember someone else in another thread having this issue. He went for 4th and hit 2nd(I think) when accelerating as fast as he could..

The car did just as the one you mentioned from "your friend".

He did say it shifted rougher than normal from that point on.. I don't think he ever had any real issues after this.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I did 2-3-2 twice on my RS while on the 1/4 mile and the second time it went in limp mode and it was driving like ****.

I parked the car let it sit for 10 min and it was back to normal after.

Don't know why it happen twice on this car, i must have around 2K pass of 1/4 mille if not more and it never happen to me with other car.

Next time i go i'll have to keep this in mind and be carefull when i power shift :p
 
#7 ·
The Mazdaspeed3 revs to 7400 RPM but 8000 RPM is quite a bit higher in terms of piston speed.

At 7400 RPM the Focus RS and Speed3 have a piston speed of about 23.2 meters per second. At 8000 RPM that speed increases to about 25.1 meters per second.

For reference, that falls between the F20C and F22C used in the S2000 at their respective redlines. Both of those are smaller engines meaning they likely have lighter internals and are therefore better able to cope with higher speeds. The F20C had the highest, and perhaps still the highest, piston speed of any production car at about 25.8 m/s.

At 6600 RPM, the Focus RS' fuel cutoff, the 2.3 Ecoboost has a piston speed of about 20.7 m/s.
 
#11 ·
The RS valve train is good for temporary no load hits beyond 7000rpm. I wouldn't keep it there, but there is enough P2V clearance that you shouldn't have a valve contact a piston. Its still an interference engine, so its possible, but the valve train seems to be very tolerant of an accidental mis shift.

There was one other here to did the same and hit 8000rpm, but the car ended up fine after clearing all the warnings. I'm sure it recorded an over-rev event, but mechanically its probably fine.

A mechanical problem would pretty much show up IMMEDIATELY. If you bent a valve, you'd know it. The car would run rough, be down on power, and eventually the valve would break and embed itself into the piston.
 
#12 ·
My friend did it again. No limp mode this time, as he knew what was going on immediately. No mechanical over rev just neutral no load.

How would he know about valve float issues? Is this realistic to worry about?
 
#14 ·
Lmao maybe so...but there is something weird going on it feels like. When i go to downshift I'm not missing the gear entry point...I wasn't sure before but I'm 100% after today. it's like the car locks me out of 4th when downshifting from 6th. So naturnally my right foot is way ahead of my hand at that point and....redline +. Pretty frustrating
 
#18 ·
Time to find a new friend. Soon this friend will be asking you to borrow tools and money to replace the engine in his brand new car.
 
#20 ·
My friend has done this twice now, both times were FFS from 3rd to 4th and it gating into 2nd. First time, all the lights came on, parked it for 10 mins, drove fine. 2nd time went to 8k for a second or so, but no lights. Hasn't spun a bearing or bent a valve yet, so I suppose he'll keep on saving for his built engine.

Something trans or shifter-wise seems to be wrong though, my friend has never had a problem with money shifting any cars before the RS
 
#21 ·
I think a big thing to look out for has been HPFP damage from over revving. And not questioning his skills but, were those other cars direct bars to the transmission or cable shifters? The cable feels very different to me, but I've yet to have an issue, but I do not FFS.
 
#24 ·
I had a mechanical over rev once, only has around 1300km on the car so I was still not very familiar with the gears; at about 100km/h I downshifted into second gear, couldn't remember how high the rpm hit, but it sounded like the rev limiter working when you rev the car. I quickly pushed in the clutch, the over reving was probably a second long, no warnings no lights, but I immeidately started driving gently. that was like 2 weeks ago, everthing seems to be fine on my car.
 
#25 · (Edited)
If it seems to be running fine and isn't throwing any warning lights, you would seem to be okay... I don't know of any other way to know for sure than to dismantle head and inspect everything, and even then there aren't many people that could tell you what all to look for (definitely not me). Anyone know of any common failures in the RS due to overrev or over-boost (the kaboom kind, not the Ford kind)?

(The following is Sabaoth on his tiny, crumbling soap box... Reading is optional) Definitely slow down and take it easier until you've learned the behavior of the transmission... It's much harder to learn the timing and program your muscle memory of you're always going too fast to get it right. Smooth 100% of the time is better than fast 50% of the time, and eventually it will become smooth *and* fast, which is better than jerky and fast.

When your inputs are jerky it temporarily takes the applied force above the nominal peak, which can cause oscillations in the drivetrain (if the jerky input was through the clutch), or loss of grip (if the jerky input was through the steering wheel).
 
#26 ·
The Mrs blew the clutch in a Mini Cooper by doing a 5-2 downshift. She NEVER engaged the clutch, but the clutch/transmission was probably spinning WAY past 15k rpm. The clutch disc itself just slung the friction material off the disc. The engine didn't show any overruns and everything was fine once the clutch was replaced.

Image