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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Small update:

Transmission pulled, Wavetrac LSD, carbon syncros, new bearings and seals all installed. Xclutch twin organic clutch installed, just waiting on a second set of hands to help re-install. On re-install i have new DSS axles, OEM inner tie rods, Hardrace outer tie rods and passenger side axle bearing. All (other than axles) are "while i'm in theres."

Upon this i noticed i have the dreaded post HG oil leak. I have some UV dye to add and see where its from. If it is HG related, i will add rods (Manly I Beam Rods with ARP2000 bolts and rod bearings) and possibly pistons to my cam, spring and balance shaft delete step. I would like to retain stock bore, but increase compression ratio, but haven't found any options just yet.

Last will be my MWI set up, i have had the box made under the rear matt partially completed. Battery moved (not in pic), 3g WM tank installed and sub box made. Long way to go!
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How did you do the preload shims for the Wavetrac?

Are you planning to have a Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction done via IDS from Ford(Rotunda) with the changes to the transaxle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
How did you do the preload shims for the Wavetrac?

Are you planning to have a Misfire Monitor Neutral Profile Correction done via IDS from Ford(Rotunda) with the changes to the transaxle?
I bought the test shim and measured, luckily I needed the shim that was already in there so I assume it is shimmed to the case rather than the diff which makes sense.

I hadn't thought about your second point, guess I have some learning to do!

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I bought the test shim and measured, luckily I needed the shim that was already in there so I assume it is shimmed to the case rather than the diff which makes sense.
That is great!

Makes me wonder how necessary new shims are in this case; I watched a performance garage install a Wavetrac and they didn't need a new shim as well.
 

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That is great!

Makes me wonder how necessary new shims are in this case; I watched a performance garage install a Wavetrac and they didn't need a new shim as well.
looking at all the installs of the quaife lsd, it seems 99% of people don鈥檛 have to shim anything, but you might have to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Update, Trans all back in, just need to install the starter and bleed the clutch line.

Added new parts to my list, big thank you to Raptor Racing as almost everything was in stock!
  • Ibeam rods w/ARP2000
  • Rob Bearings
  • Head Gasket
  • JE pistons
  • Mountune Oil pump
  • Radium coolant tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Update:
  • Unfortunately i installed the 1st gear selector ring upside down, upside i am very efficient in disassembly and reassembly of everything to get the trans in and out!
  • Trans is all done, added a braided clutch line as well
  • Installed front and rear H&L sway bars with massive end links
  • Installed all PTU bushing inserts

Took it for a drive and what a difference. Still have my winters on, but there is 0 torque steer. Sway bars are amazing (definitely a rougher ride now as they are substantially stiffer) and the shifts feel great. Clutch feels stock which is great!

just waiting on Pistons and a few more tools for install. lots required for that install:
plastic gauges, ARP torque assembly lube, dial bore gauge, micrometers, rod vise, burrs, diamond files, ring compressor, piston ring filer and a rod bolt stretch gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Forgot to mention, the Hardrace tie rod ends do not work on our cars. The threaded section is substantially shorter and i was only able to get roughly 14mm of threads (before alignment). I didnt feel comfortable with this and went back to the original tie rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Update to the update. The ride quality has taken a step back with the upgraded sway bars, but handling has improved enough that i need to find a suspension fix. I have reached out to Litchfield to see if they can revalve, or change the spring rates. If not, i will look to sway out for Fortune or Feal and looks to sell the litchfields.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Found my ride issue. I noticed the Massive end links in the rear were 1" longer than the stock ones, turns out they do not work and got hung up on the control arm. Luckily my friend has a lathe and i will just turn down each side 1/2"

I didnt notice it with my winters for the day they were on, but could tell right away when i put my summers on as it was sitting pretty damn low in the back.

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I just installed those end links last night and noticed the same thing today. Seeing your post before made me aware to check for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
I just installed those end links last night and noticed the same thing today. Seeing your post before made me aware to check for that.
What sway bars are you using? Lowered?

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OE sway bars, and I installed a used set of Mountune sport springs at the same time as these Massive end links. I'll be putting the OE end links back on tonight and see about shortening the Massive body. I'll also check on the OE end links to see where the bar sits, in case I need to remove more than an 1" to get the end of the bar level.
 

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How hard was the front sway bar install? I need to do mine before the Canada day track day at a27 but I don鈥檛 think I can do the whole 鈥榙ropping the subframe鈥 thing in the driveway
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
It was not enjoyable, even with a two point lift. I also had my Trans, PTU and driveshaft out.

It wasn't difficult by any stretch, just a pain.

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@OverkillYJ , I just wanted to update you on the rear end links in case it interests you. With the OE sway bar, the links were long enough to not only scrape the bar end across the arm, but the bottom heim joint got jammed on it.. holding all the suspension up. I had to pry it out to get it off.

I called Massive today to RMA the end links, and he said they do offer a stubby set that has no aluminum shaft -- there's a male and female rod end. He said it's 1" shorter than stock... and he's sending a set. I'll post pictures in the "What'd you get in the mail thread" once they arrive. For the typical end links that we got, he said they are the same length as OE, but that might be without the jam nuts and the boots pushed way up.... or maybe with the jam nuts, but I wasn't wanting to mess with it any more. Either way, I wanted links that were a little shorter than OE.
 
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