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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Updated Parts list:
  • Mountune RMM
  • CPE Passenger + Driver side motor mounts
  • ETS Intake
  • COBB intercooler and hard pipes
  • Turbosmart WG
  • Scorpion catted DP with billet DP bracket
  • Remus exhaust
  • Mountune exhaust hangers
  • Radium dual catch cans and breather plate
  • Boomba BPV
  • Mountune sound suppression chamber
  • GC camber plates
  • Litchfield coilovers
  • Powerflex front and rear control arm and caster bushings
  • Powerflex RDU bushings
  • Massive rear camber and toe arms
  • Girodisc front and rear rotors
  • Stoptech pads
  • Damond rear brake bushings
  • Goodrich braided brake lines
  • Volk TE27s with 265/35R18 Cup 2s
  • Carbon front quarter panels
  • H&R front and rear Sway barns
  • Massive front and rear sway bar end links
  • Ford racing carbon front strut tower brace
  • Steeda rear strut tower brace
  • BBK 65mm Throttle body
  • Turbotech racing intake manifold
  • Piper BP270 cams with supertech springs
  • JE Pistons
  • Manly I beam connecting rods with ARP 2000 bolts
  • ARP Head studs
  • ARP cam and crank bolts
  • Mountune upgraded Oil pump
  • Mountune balance shaft delete
  • Mountune HG
  • NGK 1 step coolder plugs
  • Radium expansion tank
  • Xclutch twin disc organic clutch
  • Waetrac LSD
  • Syncrotech carbon syncros
  • Upgraded transmission bearings
  • Drive shaft shop front axles
  • PTU Brace
  • Braided clutch line
  • JBR short shift arm and all bushings
  • Custom WMI (3g tank, AEM kit, AEM fail safe and Starified guardian angel)
  • Battery relocated to trunk
  • Euro head unit and cup holder
  • SS tuning shift knob
  • Verus rear diffuser
  • RB mud flaps
  • Stratified Dyno Tune
  • Mountune Radiator
  • Mountune Radiator hoses

Like some of you, I have been biding my time until I can start bumping the performance of my RS (Received my RS in December 2016). To date I have the minimal mods (all 3 solid shift bushing, JBR short shifter, RR dimming mirror, cooltech plate mount, hard wired radar detector, Neuspeed RSe102s with 265/30 Michelin SS ). I have recently installed the Litchfield KW set up and am very happy with the results along with braided lines, full Motul 600 flush, EBC yellow pads and had my winters powder coated. Plan to have paint correction done in the upcoming weeks (once I find someone reputable locally), then I will do the ceramic coating myself.

Now that I am moving towards the power end, I could use some opinions on what I need to do to achieve my desired results (would like to hit the 420hp/tq while keeping it livable and dependable as it is my DD).

Originally I had wanted to go Mountune, but with their shipping delays I will most likely avoid them and go with ETS. So far on my list:
  • IC
  • IC piping
  • Intake
  • Catted DP
  • Miltek or Remus
  • Turbosmart WG
  • AP with tune (Stratified as they are local)
  • Dual catch cans
  • RB 2 piece rotors including oversized rears

Anything I should plan on adding/removing from this list to achieve my goals?

 

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I see three things not in either installed or planned lists:
- upgraded/better recirculation valve (the OEM has a spring prone to going bad under stress)
- colder spark plugs like a set of NGK LTR71X-II
- breather plate to help out the front catch can

With that pointed out, that's a solid plan but getting over 400 hp at the wheels is going to be tough for a daily drivable RS, if not impossible, on pump gas (i don't see any mention of E30 in your plans)
 

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@MorningZ we don’t have e30 where we live. The best we can do is 94oct with a WMI kit unless the OP wants to buy e85 by the barrel and mix it himself.
@OverkillYJ I have intake, catless DP, bov, FMIC and piping with a 94 tune from stratified. It’s MORE than daily-able. Let me know if you want to take it for a spin. Only thing I haven’t done yet is the WGA but for now I’m content
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should have mentioned that those figures are not to the wheels, I understand much more would be needed.
 

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2018.5 Focus Rs Mk3
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@MorningZ we don’t have e30 where we live. The best we can do is 94oct with a WMI kit unless the OP wants to buy e85 by the barrel and mix it himself.
@OverkillYJ I have intake, catless DP, bov, FMIC and piping with a 94 tune from stratified. It’s MORE than daily-able. Let me know if you want to take it for a spin. Only thing I haven’t done yet is the WGA but for now I’m content
Which catless DP, intake, & FMIC do you recommend?
 

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@SLOW_RS_ I don’t think that’s an easy answer. My best answer is “whatever you can afford”. I’m a cheap ass so I run the Depo Racing FMIC, piping kit and catless downpipe. Fitment and quality for all three have been perfectly good and I have purchased all 3 for under $1000cad brand new.

Or you could buy just one intercooler for even more than that. The choice is yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks like i've planned the following:
COBB Intake, IC & IC piping
Scorpion Catted DP
Remus Exhaust
Turbosmart WG
NGK LTR71X-II
Mountune or Boomba Recirc
Radium dual catch cans and breather
RB Rotors
Cobb AP + Tune
 

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I would definately look at upgraded wastegate.
The stock one tapers off and cannot hold its boost targets once the boost has increased. You will see boost sooner and held for longer.
Also look at the go fast bits upgraded diverter valve, pretty close to stock but upgraded
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would definately look at upgraded wastegate.
The stock one tapers off and cannot hold its boost targets once the boost has increased. You will see boost sooner and held for longer.
Also look at the go fast bits upgraded diverter valve, pretty close to stock but upgraded
Already have the Wastegate on the list. Currently looking at the Boomba recirc, but will add the GFB to my possible list
 

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I'd also comment and say I'm running the depo stuff daily and it is holding up pretty well.
You could save money instead of getting the Cobb stuff as it's practically the same
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Head studs necessary? Quoted quite a lot in labour to do the head studs and gasket.

I've done everything to date on my own, but with a second kid coming anytime in the next week, I wont be able to tinker for an entire weekend. Unless i want to come home and find my key doesnt work anymore! Hahaha
 

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It's great to see some local boys here! @OverkillYJ @320icar

I just bought a used AP from the member here and ready to go Stratified. My RS is a DD and still bone stock.

I did a search and it seems we do have access to E85. They are in New West but I don't know how much are they selling tho.
E85 Ethanol Available for pickup in New Westminter

I might go with a tune at 91/94/E30 if E85 is easy to get here...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's great to see some local boys here! @OverkillYJ @320icar

I just bought a used AP from the member here and ready to go Stratified. My RS is a DD and still bone stock.

I did a search and it seems we do have access to E85. They are in New West but I don't know how much are they selling tho.
E85 Ethanol Available for pickup in New Westminter

I might go with a tune at 91/94/E30 if E85 is easy to get here...
There are a few of us out here. I actually changed up and will be using Independent speed shop in Langley as they will install and Dyno tune. I have used them for my Jeep YJ with a 383 stroker and custom intake/computer and also my fathers supercharged 6.4L Ram 2500.
 

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@rcyhww @OverkillYJ stratified will be getting a dyno soon, though I’m not sure how long calibration will take. Once that’s all done I believe for us locals they’ll offer dyno tunes as well.

And yes flying J did end up buying Arcade’s old e85 pump. Only issue is for me I drive all around. Just last month I went to cache creek twice for ice racing, and there sure as hell ain’t no e85 up there. So 1 pump in an entire provi e is not feasible. You’d be so much better off going 91 with WMI
 

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I dunno, these aren’t a diesel monster pushing 60psi with insane cylinder pressures. I’d just build the car and wait until the next time you actually need to replace the HG (or some other reason to take the head off). That money could be better spent
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
One more question for the group, i wasn't going to do any of the installs myself, but am thinking i just may save myself some cash and do so.

Question is, if i install an intake, IC, IC piping, recirc valve and spark plugs, am i still able to drive for some time without a tune? Or would this require a tune immediately afterwards?
 
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