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Here's the info on the gasket that was replaced at the HPFP. This was in addition to reinstalling the Timing (Front) Cover for the common passenger side leak. Too early to know if either fix is permanent.

View attachment 342067
Did they lift your head for the front cover replacement and apply TA-30 sealant or just remove/replace the front cover without lifting the head?
 

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Did they lift your head for the front cover replacement and apply TA-30 sealant or just remove/replace the front cover without lifting the head?
Yep seems like they have only done half the job......
They removed the head on mine and did the proper job and the timing case, Ive yet to jack it up and have a look whats going on since I got the car back, will report here once I do.
 

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Did they lift your head for the front cover replacement and apply TA-30 sealant or just remove/replace the front cover without lifting the head?
Just removed and reinstalled. If / when it continues to leak, SSM 47443 will hopefully be the cure. I'm sure I'll wish I had pushed harder for it this time around... Certainly going to get my money's worth out of my extended warranty, unfortunately.

342084
 

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Well, now I have a new leak, and they are telling me it's the valve cover.
This is getting very old :)
 

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Well, now I have a new leak, and they are telling me it's the valve cover.
This is getting very old :)
Well what do you know!
Tell them they are [email protected] and show them the ssm and tsb and tell them to fix it correctly, but good luck with that, they want to do it their way first in the hope you will give up, keep on them, usually around the 4th time they will do the correct procedure, then you have to hope and pray they don't f$ck something else .
Lol
 

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Well, now I have a new leak, and they are telling me it's the valve cover.
This is getting very old :)
Welcome to the world of software trouble shooting.
Its like patching bugs nowadays.

I had the same.
Banjo Bolt fix - oil leak came back.
Other gaskets fixed - oil leak came back
(sat down with the big kahuna of the dealership and the chief mechanic and said) : fellas, this is not working. If you can't do it, tell me and I go some place else. If you change 3 bits but to get to those bits you open 5 and put them back leading to additional oil leaks where is the logic in this. You need to change 3 bits and open half the engine? Thou shall change all the seals, gaskets and screws even if they are not in the factory warranty list. I pay the difference for those.

What happened? They opened my engine for the second time and changed everything. Even stuff that could have been used again.
Result?

Car is leak free for 2 years and two days ago I enjoyed a nice 9 mpg cruise on the highway.
 

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Welcome to the world of software trouble shooting.
Its like patching bugs nowadays.

I had the same.
Banjo Bolt fix - oil leak came back.
Other gaskets fixed - oil leak came back
(sat down with the big kahuna of the dealership and the chief mechanic and said) : fellas, this is not working. If you can't do it, tell me and I go some place else. If you change 3 bits but to get to those bits you open 5 and put them back leading to additional oil leaks where is the logic in this. You need to change 3 bits and open half the engine? Thou shall change all the seals, gaskets and screws even if they are not in the factory warranty list. I pay the difference for those.

What happened? They opened my engine for the second time and changed everything. Even stuff that could have been used again.
Result?

Car is leak free for 2 years and two days ago I enjoyed a nice 9 mpg cruise on the highway.
😅 9 mpg?
I would say your car is a bit thirsty, or you have a heavy foot, which one applies?
 

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9 mpg?
I would say your car is a bit thirsty, or you have a heavy foot, which one applies?
Weather was good, wind in my hair, the autobahn was empty and the car was cruising for the better part of an hour in 6th gear between 4500 and 6000 rpm.


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Doing my oil change now and checking out the area. They cleaned up most places nicely so spotting the leak again should be easy (if it's still there). I took some more pics and if that line/fitting was the culprit why would there be oil up higher? Granted some of it was from them doing the work, like on the turbo where it was dry in my first set of pictures, but in the first pic here it looks pretty wet. View attachment 341766
View attachment 341764 View attachment 341765
I checked again today 500 miles after the fix and there is definitely some oil collecting around that banjo fitting. I can't spot it coming from higher up, it seems like it is coming from there but that just seems unlikely since they freshly replaced it. Since there isn't a ton I am going to leave it for another 1k miles or so. My 3yr/36k warranty will be up and August, I'll make sure it is back at the dealer by then.
342112
342113
342114
 

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You cant track these sort of weepy oil leaks by leaving oil leak residue all over the place once you've rectified ( or think you've rectified the leak) You need to clean the whole of the old evidence off the engine and dry it off. When I troubleshot jet engines for oil leaks we used to spray the whole engine area down with white spirits and have it perfectly dry and then take it to the run bay and flog it for a while and recheck. Same applies here, it needs to be cleaned off properly and dried so you can trace the leak. If you do it right you dont need oil dye, just brains and a good light source.

Ciao
 

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I agree^
It needs to be thoroughly cleaned off and then you will be able to find its true source.
 

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Mirror mirror on the wall what car had no oil leaks for 2 years ? This RS!!

Now I am back at the dealership tomorrow. Who has jackets with oil leaks are cool ?





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Welcome to the world of software trouble shooting.
Its like patching bugs nowadays.

I had the same.
Banjo Bolt fix - oil leak came back.
Other gaskets fixed - oil leak came back
(sat down with the big kahuna of the dealership and the chief mechanic and said) : fellas, this is not working. If you can't do it, tell me and I go some place else. If you change 3 bits but to get to those bits you open 5 and put them back leading to additional oil leaks where is the logic in this. You need to change 3 bits and open half the engine? Thou shall change all the seals, gaskets and screws even if they are not in the factory warranty list. I pay the difference for those.

What happened? They opened my engine for the second time and changed everything. Even stuff that could have been used again.
Result?

Car is leak free for 2 years and two days ago I enjoyed a nice 9 mpg cruise on the highway.
Weather was good, wind in my hair, the autobahn was empty and the car was cruising for the better part of an hour in 6th gear between 4500 and 6000 rpm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Mirror mirror on the wall what car had no oil leaks for 2 years ? This RS!!

Now I am back at the dealership tomorrow. Who has jackets with oil leaks are cool ?





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Lol! So the high speed runs did you over.......🤭
 

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You cant track these sort of weepy oil leaks by leaving oil leak residue all over the place once you've rectified ( or think you've rectified the leak) You need to clean the whole of the old evidence off the engine and dry it off. When I troubleshot jet engines for oil leaks we used to spray the whole engine area down with white spirits and have it perfectly dry and then take it to the run bay and flog it for a while and recheck. Same applies here, it needs to be cleaned off properly and dried so you can trace the leak. If you do it right you dont need oil dye, just brains and a good light source.

Ciao
I cleaned the area the best I could when I changed the oil the day they "fixed" the leak by replacing the banjo fitting. I took a ton of pics and a video to document what it looked like that day after I cleaned it so I could compare and right now the only area with noticeable oil that wasn't there before is the fitting. This is what it looked like the day they replaced it:
342135

And of course now:
342136
 

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You need to clean the whole engine down not just the banjo area. The Banjo never leaks it's just the point at which the oil collects. The leak will be from most likely the front cover or front cover to cylinder head and block interface( 3 component faces intersect adjacent to where the shop manual updates sealant application) as you can see in your previous images there is oil residue on the engine block everywhere above the banjo. This whole area has to be spotless and dry so you can identify the source.
Same applies to the banjo itself. If you want to identify whether it's still leaking in a 10 minute drive it needs to be spotlessly clean and dry. Then as I said a short drive and you will tell as you will see even tiny oil weeps straight away and not need to wait for an oily mess to appear. You can even use a piece of tissue paper pressed on the joint after a short run and tell immediately if its still weeping. If the tissue paper comes away clean its fixed. But it needs to be perfectly dry to start with.

Ciao
 

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Lol! So the high speed runs did you over.......
I guess this car is not made for high speed.
If I stick to 55-60 mph all is fine.
Why own an RS if you are not going to drive it ?
I used the car in conditions stated by the manufacturer.
My maintenance schedules are perfect.
Yet the oil leaks are back.




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mines fixed....for now....very happy!! View attachment 342145
Hope it lasts ! Enjoy it but do check it ! Remember, drive it hard a few times and scan every cm of that engine afterward ! Fingers crossed !

My car is with the mechanic.
We are looking at other options not only fixing the car.

I asked my salesman a simple question : “what will happen when my warranty expires and the car will keep leaking oil ?”


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