[mikesk]

Many of the pre-fabbed kitted turbo/intercooler piping/hose options come with clamps of certain designs that each have their own short comings resulting in questionable reliability.

The Murray clamps address many of the deficiencis and may be the best hose clamping solution available.

They also have a good read about cold flow as it relates to our turbo/IC hoses:
https://www.murraycorp.com/tech-tips/hose-cold-flow/

 

[mikesk]

Got the clamps in today, if anyone has had silicone boost hoses from their brand X hardpipes come loose, I recommend these clamps and a beading tool for a lasting solution.

 

[lucky phil]

Got the clamps in today, if anyone has had silicone boost hoses from their brand X hardpipes come loose, I recommend these clamps and a beading tool for a lasting solution. View attachment 317326

Or you could just use proper hose clamps.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5-inc...=item4d76d4a22f:g:hAkAAOSwawpXtRK8:rk:39:pf:0

Ciao

 

[mikesk]

Another opinion to consider T-bolt versus Worm Gear:

 

[lucky phil]

Cant really agree with the above. Aircraft have been using the T bolt clamps on all forms of flex ducting for more than 75 years and I've never to my memory seen a worm drive clamped duct of any significance on a commercial jet anywhere in 40 years of working on them. Thats good enough engineering rationale for me.

Ciao

 

[mikesk]

Received my aluminum intercooler pipes/tubing with included T-bolt style clamps. Here they are side by side. I see how these can create an out of round situation on the thin wall tubing when tightening in the attempt to create a positive seal. The T-bolt clamp can't distribute the pressure evenly by design.

The Murray clamp is a better clamp specifically for this application and materials involved; silicone hose to thin wall beaded aluminum tubing in a heat and pressure cycling environment.

 

[mikesk]

Here's an example of the uneven clamping force of the T-bolt style clamps. This is on titanium, I can imagine these would out-of-round thin wall aluminum tubing easily.

 

[mikesk]

I found it interesting that on all of the intercooler piping joints, Ford used standard Worm Gear hose clamps but used a ribbed style Worm Gear clamp at the intake manifold coupler point similar to the Murray clamp without the constant tension mechanism.
The two are pictured below.

 

[mikesk]

Here are the Murray constant tension clamps installed on the intercooler piping joints.

 

[Skidro87]

Pic don't work!
Is there a cheap place to get these? Do they ever get loose?

 

[mikesk]

@Skidro87, pics fixed. I bought these thru Summit, these aren't cheap, but the best for this application. You'll have peace of mind and the satisfaction of knowing you have better materials than many auto brands. I know these are better than Porsche and Lotus OEM clamps.

 

[mikesk]

In operation update. The clamps are working as intended, when I checked recently there are no indications of movement gauged by my initial grease pen mark. Murray clamps are solid.

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Is this the same Murray clamp you used (TSS44S30EP - 2.5")?

2-1/2" to 3-3/8" Murray Constant Tension Turbo Seal Hose Clamps TSS44S30EP | eBay

 

[mikesk]

Is this the same Murray clamp you used (TSS44S30EP - 2.5")?

2-1/2" to 3-3/8" Murray Constant Tension Turbo Seal Hose Clamps TSS44S30EP | eBay

Yes sir.

 

[morbid]

Thanks @mikesk . Just reviving this thread because I have become of fan of these clamps, and missed this thread before. I smoke tested my intake a while ago, and there were 2 leaks. One was on the main intake, at the coupler that connects the first and second halves of the intake piping. I have to have the worm gear clamps tight enough that they're almost about to pop off the strap. This also causes visible strapping material loss in the form of metal scrapings, which was also shown in the recent Project Farm videos.

The other was on the throttle body coupler, that had t-bolt clamps. It was leaking at the edge of the tensioner, where it slides along the strap, as noted in the above t-bolt info. The t-bolt clamp might have slightly out-of-rounded my thin aluminum cp-e cold-side pipe too. t-bolt clamps also can't be used with offset couplers, as they're too wide.

I have replaced almost all of my boosted connection t-bolts with Turbosmart Murray clamps, but intend to replace even the unboosted wormgears with these, just because of the additional wear the gear has done on those straps, in order to get them tight enough to not leak.

And thanks to @20focusstdriver17 for initially making me aware of Murray clamps in the throttle body thread!

 

[4rd SVT]

Replying for future reference-

I have the Mishi-version cold side & hot-side tubing kits installed. I plan on installing the larger diameter Ecoboost Mustang throttle-body assembly...

Problem is, I have to find a "spacer" or inner sleeve to connect with the larger diameter Ecoboost coupler & cut down a length of the Mishi cold side tubing to prevent any "kinks" or flat spot... Since the cold side tube is molded for exact length & direction.

These murray clamps will hold BOTH the Ecoboost Coupling [OE size to larger diameter] to the inner sleeve & the Mishi-version tubing together.... and prevent blow-out.

 

[20focusstdriver17]

completely forgot about this thread!

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Thanks @mikesk . Just reviving this thread because I have become of fan of these clamps, and missed this thread before. I smoke tested my intake a while ago, and there were 2 leaks. One was on the main intake, at the coupler that connects the first and second halves of the intake piping. I have to have the worm gear clamps tight enough that they're almost about to pop off the strap. This also causes visible strapping material loss in the form of metal scrapings, which was also shown in the recent Project Farm videos.

The other was on the throttle body coupler, that had t-bolt clamps. It was leaking at the edge of the tensioner, where it slides along the strap, as noted in the above t-bolt info. The t-bolt clamp might have slightly out-of-rounded my thin aluminum cp-e cold-side pipe too. t-bolt clamps also can't be used with offset couplers, as they're too wide.

I have replaced almost all of my boosted connection t-bolts with Turbosmart Murray clamps, but intend to replace even the unboosted wormgears with these, just because of the additional wear the gear has done on those straps, in order to get them tight enough to not leak.

And thanks to @20focusstdriver17 for initially making me aware of Murray clamps in the throttle body thread!

welcome to the dark side!

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Replying for future reference-

I have the Mishi-version cold side & hot-side tubing kits installed. I plan on installing the larger diameter Ecoboost Mustang throttle-body assembly...

Problem is, I have to find a "spacer" or inner sleeve to connect with the larger diameter Ecoboost coupler & cut down a length of the Mishi cold side tubing to prevent any "kinks" or flat spot... Since the cold side tube is molded for exact length & direction.

These murray clamps will hold BOTH the Ecoboost Coupling [OE size to larger diameter] to the inner sleeve & the Mishi-version tubing together.... and prevent blow-out.

Not sure what you're actually sayin here?? Is your Mishi cold side a hard pipe to the TB or a Silicone hose and is the ID 2.5" or 2.75", you say its a tube so i would guess hard pipe and I think Mishi is 2.75"? You should just need a straight 2.75" silicone coupler for the Mustang EB TB? Have you checked out the Throttle Body thread?

JEGS 56006: Straight Silicone Hose Connector 2.75" I.D. x 3" Long - JEGS High Performance

 

[20focusstdriver17]

Summit & Jegs have the TurboSmart branded Murray Constant Tension clamps and they are the cheapest prices I have found so far..