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Discussion Starter #1
About to start the tuning process, but the instructions provided by Mountune is not too clear. Am I suppose to start with stage 0 map and do 1-2 data log before using the Mountune calibration and do 1-2 data log again? If so, is the stage 0 in Slot 1? Then which slot is the Mountune calibration?

Thanks!
 

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About to start the tuning process, but the instructions provided by Mountune is not too clear. Am I suppose to start with stage 0 map and do 1-2 data log before using the Mountune calibration and do 1-2 data log again? If so, is the stage 0 in Slot 1? Then which slot is the Mountune calibration?

Thanks!
Stage 0 is basically stock that is able to be data logged. Flash that and do at least 2 runs with that. Then you have to select the mountune generic tune from the cobb, flash, drive for a day or 2 and log. The mountune flash has 4 slots. Basically the 91 or 93 tune in slot 1, flat shifting and LC slot 2, bad gas lower timing slot 3, and a valet mode slot 4.
 

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Drive with stage 0 for a few days to allow the OAR to adjust, then data-log. Flash the Mountune calibration, drive for a few days to allow the OAR to adjust, then data-log. The data-logs need to be on the same stretch of road going the same direction.
 

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About to start the tuning process, but the instructions provided by Mountune is not too clear. Am I suppose to start with stage 0 map and do 1-2 data log before using the Mountune calibration and do 1-2 data log again? If so, is the stage 0 in Slot 1? Then which slot is the Mountune calibration?

Thanks!
OP, I know the instructions can be really lacking from experience, but the key thing to keep in mind are:
-Flash "stage 0" and monitor "OAR". Drive around until it reaches "-1" or when it stops going down. This will be your "baseline" data.
-Before data logging, make sure to update the data log parameters you are recording to what the tuner is requesting.

Tips when data logging:
-Pick a nice straight empty piece or road and record going the same direction every time.
-Make sure your car is warmed up (oil temp gauge is above the 1/4 mark, preferably around half) before doing your pulls.
-Remember to start and end recording at the rpm range your tuner has requested. Treat the throttle as an "on-off" switch. Coast and hold the throttle until you hit the low-end of the the rpm range you'd like to record, then mash the gas to the floor (your throttle input should be at 100% at this point).

-When I did my tuning with mountune, he requested: sport mode, TC off (hold down TC button for 5 sec), map 1
-Flash Mountune "base" calibration, then repeat the steps above (drive around until OAR is -1, etc.)
-Repeat for each revision he sends you until tuning is done.

This will be very similar set of steps to any e-tuning you may plan on doing in the future.

Good luck!
 

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OP, I know the instructions can be really lacking from experience, but the key thing to keep in mind are:
-Flash "stage 0" and monitor "OAR". Drive around until it reaches "-1" or when it stops going down. This will be your "baseline" data.
-Before data logging, make sure to update the data log parameters you are recording to what the tuner is requesting.

Tips when data logging:
-Pick a nice straight empty piece or road and record going the same direction every time.
-Make sure your car is warmed up (oil temp gauge is above the 1/4 mark, preferably around half) before doing your pulls.
-Remember to start and end recording at the rpm range your tuner has requested. Treat the throttle as an "on-off" switch. Coast and hold the throttle until you hit the low-end of the the rpm range you'd like to record, then mash the gas to the floor (your throttle input should be at 100% at this point).

-When I did my tuning with mountune, he requested: sport mode, TC off (hold down TC button for 5 sec), map 1
-Flash Mountune "base" calibration, then repeat the steps above (drive around until OAR is -1, etc.)
-Repeat for each revision he sends you until tuning is done.

This will be very similar set of steps to any e-tuning you may plan on doing in the future.

Good luck!
Stage 0 wont go down to -1. It will stop at .75
 

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Dont over think the slots, just load the tune and go.
 
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Stage 0 will go down to -1. It will stop at .75
Agree with this lol.... spent an hour driving round trying to get the stage Zero OAR down to -1 bit it wont go below -0.75 lol

I just loaded my mountune tune yesterday as I had to install the IWGA before the tune ......but so far so good....waiting for some Ice free roads to do the first Mountune logs for Randy.

But already pulls so much better, it really is night and day!
 
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Cool topic!
Someone who has successfully done this and found the kinks & perks should make a sticky!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all your help. With stage 0, it goes down to -0.61 and has been at that number for two days. I guess I will start the data logging now and then load the Mountune calibration.
 

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I waited until Randy said the log looked good until I loaded his tune.
Thanks for all your help. With stage 0, it goes down to -0.61 and has been at that number for two days. I guess I will start the data logging now and then load the Mountune calibration.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks for all your help. With stage 0, it goes down to -0.61 and has been at that number for two days. I guess I will start the data logging now and then load the Mountune calibration.
What octane gas are u running. If its stuck there you may need to try another station.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anybody know the difference between The initial Mountune calibration map vs the Cobb OTS map? Does Mountune start with a map similar to Cobb stage 1 for calibration and then optimize it as the tuning continues?
 

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Anybody know the difference between The initial Mountune calibration map vs the Cobb OTS map? Does Mountune start with a map similar to Cobb stage 1 for calibration and then optimize it as the tuning continues?
Only mountune can really answer that, but it varies among the tuners in what "strategy" they use to manage power delivery. Most tuners have a "base map" where it probably won't be that far off from a stock-ish or Stage 1 Cobb calibration but in how they dial up the power (or down) from there likely varies. There's a lot of technology, or maybe I should say methods, that goes into controlling power for what you or the tuner are trying to accomplish. Some pretty consistent things you will find is more timing and boost with any aftermarket tuner.

Cobb is a great way to get better than stock, with the exception that you can't dial it in for your specific car really or fuel. So there's strategies in the Cobb tunes that are supposed to help with that, and OAR is one where if it's not -1.00 timing I think generally gets pulled or some other combination of events take place to prevent things like pre-ignition/LSPI/etc. Cobb attempts to just do a better OEM based strategy, using the "Ford" method.
 
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