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MoTeC RS Build (currently at 825whp)

38K views 121 replies 36 participants last post by  White-RS2 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys I don't post on here often, but I know at least a few of you would find what I'm doing with my RS interesting.

The car is currently built with a 4 port head using a precision 6466.
When I last had it on the dyno I laid down 687whp on the dyno before my tires wouldn't hold anymore. I'm not your normal RS owner I'm building this car for straight line drag racing. I tune some of the fastest Ecoboost mustangs in the world, and I want to give the RS community a better time than the current best of 11.0 haha.

I just picked up a Plug N Play Motec to run on the car. The value of this standalone to high hp builds like my self that use aux fuel can't be understated. I'll update this post when I have some free time with things like a full build list, but right now my tuning workload is through the roof haha.

The Motec has full CAN bus. Gauges, start button, etc. all work, and the things I can do with it are endless.

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#5 ·
Don't forget the Spoon engine!
 
#7 ·
Hi guys I don't post on here often, but I know at least a few of you would find what I'm doing with my RS interesting.

The car is currently built with a 4 port head using a precision 6466.
When I last had it on the dyno I laid down 687whp on the dyno before my tires wouldn't hold anymore. I'm not your normal RS owner I'm building this car for straight line drag racing. I tune some of the fastest Ecoboost mustangs in the world, and I want to give the RS community a better time than the current best of 11.0 haha.

I just picked up a Plug N Play Motec to run on the car. The value of this standalone to high hp builds like my self that use aux fuel can't be understated. I'll update this post when I have some free time with things like a full build list, but right now my tuning workload is through the roof haha.

The Motec has full CAN bus. Gauges, start button, etc. all work, and the things I can do with it are endless.

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Would you ever be interested in making another turbo kit like that for a customer it’s either that or I pick up the ets kit with a 3582r
 
#17 · (Edited)
Nice to discover there is another ECU option out there! Syvecs is based on LifeRacing F88 and is a very old platform, which is itself derived from the Pectel T6 from the mid-1990. Don’t get me wrong: this used to be world-class motorsport hardware back then, used by works teams in the WRC and BTCC, but it’s definitely dated now.

The only recurrent question I have is: where does the base map comes from?

Without a legit base map that mimics OEM and runs the engine just as perfectly as a starting point, the value of a standalone ECU drops dramatically.
 
#18 ·
Nice to discover there is another ECU option out there! Syvecs is based on LifeRacing F88 and is a very old platform, which is itself derived from the Pectel T6 from the late 1990. Don’t get me wrong: this used to be world-class motorsport hardware back then, used by works teams in the WRC and BTCC, but it’s definitely dated now.

The only recurrent question I have is: where does the base map comes from?

Without a legit base map that mimics OEM and runs the engine just as perfectly as a starting point, the value of a standalone ECU drops dramatically.
Motec provides a basemap to work from. They pull alot of oem data from the stock ecu.
 
#25 ·
A fuel tech is like 2500$, I'd say that's likely just as capable and supports the new electronic wastegate which is a game changer for precise control. I will talk to the guys over there and see what they think.
if they have full can bus support that could be cool. Also motec supports electronic waste gates and anything else you want to do with these.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Also I'll say this. Alot of you are caught up on the price. You can do this for cheaper if you want. You can get a universal standalone like a syvecs sgdi-4, or a universal motec m142, get a switch panel, a racepak display, and do the wiring you self. This also requires you to build your own base files. Which I assume if you are going through all this trouble you already know how to do that. What I have is plug and play, my oem start button works, so do the gauges, and the motec talks to all of the body modules, including the RDU. That's the big difference, and the main reason why the cost is higher.
 
#29 ·
So the car is just about back together now. I just swapped from the piper 285's to the 300's with new head studs. My guy should have his plate cleared enough in the next month or two so he can start design on my dog box. We all know the trans is the weak leak on these.....well at least one of them hahah. Once I get the trans in it I'll really be able to hammer on it and put it down the track. There's just really no point right now with the normal syncros. Next year should be a really good year. I'm having a house built with the garage having a bay designed for a lift. The builder looked at me a bit funny when I said I needed rebar in one section of the garage slab lol. It will give me more space and easier access to **** at home.
 
#31 ·
**** ya, a dog engagement gear set with some nice billet shafts/forks sounds GREAT! I would be in line for that product for sure, I hope you plan to sell that at some point.
I mean if people are interested sure, but I doubt the interest is going to be there. You really need a motec to be able to FFS with it. A wot box isn't going to be good enough to flat shift. At least that's what Pablo at sp63 told me when we talked about dog boxes earlier this year. Dog boxes are expensive as well. if people don't want to spend 6800 on a motec I doubt they are going to want to spend 5k on a dog box that is going to be geared towards drag racing. Because I'm not just getting stronger components made I'm also extending the gear length so I don't have to shift out of 4th when I cross the line.
 
#34 ·
The gearbox sold by MT is a Quaife. I’d not touch it with a 3-yard pole.

Besides that I find the idea of making a gear kit with longer ratios a bit surprising? The stock first is too short it could be made a little longer then close ratios with redline in 6th at 200 km/h is what I think would be nice.
 
#37 ·
Hi guys I don't post on here often, but I know at least a few of you would find what I'm doing with my RS interesting.

The car is currently built with a 4 port head using a precision 6466.
When I last had it on the dyno I laid down 687whp on the dyno before my tires wouldn't hold anymore. I'm not your normal RS owner I'm building this car for straight line drag racing. I tune some of the fastest Ecoboost mustangs in the world, and I want to give the RS community a better time than the current best of 11.0 haha.

Je viens de prendre un Motec Plug N Play pour courir sur la voiture. La valeur de cette construction autonome à haute puissance comme moi qui utilise du carburant auxiliaire ne peut pas être sous-estimée. Je mettrai à jour ce post quand j'aurai du temps libre avec des choses comme une liste de construction complète, mais pour le moment, ma charge de travail de réglage est à travers le toit haha.

Le Motec a un bus CAN complet. Les jauges, le bouton de démarrage, etc. fonctionnent tous et les choses que je peux faire avec sont infinies.

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[/CITATION]
Bonjour ou vous avez eu l'écu MOTEC.
je recherche un pour ma RS MK3.

Merci a vous.
 
#39 ·
Got the car back on Sunday. I've done a little idle/cold start tuning for the new BP300 cam's as i had to take a decent chunk of fuel out of the old tune for the BP285's. Now I have the idle trims down close to where I want them and the car is idling pretty smooth. Hopefully I'll get enough work out of the way so I can do some road tuning on Friday.
 
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