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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys just looking for advise on what i should do to my car next to gain more power/ make more boost.

I currently have the mountune B7 kit and the turbosmart waistgate 14lb spring.

Currently in the process of tweaking tune via datalogs. The initial map sent out to me had to much boost ao the tuner had to pull some out but i loved the power so im wanting to get it back.

How is too much boost determined? Is it simply pressure or do they look at other data numbers.

What mods should i get next to help me make more power?
 

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The usual pathway would include upgraded filter, front mount, charge pipes, exhaust. Or if you want quick boost in safe power you could go an e30 tune combined with some or all of these aforementioned mods. Other, more expensive mods include aux fuel for full e85, water meth injection or big turbo (with or without forged internals).


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Discussion Starter #3
I want to stay on 93 octane thats the best fuel available to me where i live.
I have front mount, hardpipe, filter, full intake, turbosmart waistgate 14lb spring, mountune recirculation valve, sound suppression chamber,and tune.
 

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The B7 kit if also tuned with Mountune and Randy is already at the limit of safe and reliable. History and data shows torque in excess of 420 at wheels equals short lived life. The internal components need attention if wanting power in excess of what is mentioned above . Do realize we are making 152hp/ltr and that’s insane for a stock car. Now crank it to B7 and your in 180 ballpark which is in top 20 standard production engines ever made.
 

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A complete built engine. Some use 2.0 blocks, some use 2.3. You are also getting to the limits of the stock fuel system beyond B7, so aux fuel, supplemental or replacement ecu. Some run a slight turbo upgrade before going built and aux fuel. I wouldn't.

Where you are on 93, you could do water methanol injection for more power. That or E30 is about the only next step before big $$.
 

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What engine upgrades do i need ?
Probably built 2.0 short block with forged rods, pistons, rings and bearings. You could keep the stock cylinder head. You would need also to upgrade the turbo; precision and ETS both do drop in kits. This set up would allow you to add a lot more boost on 93. If you were to add water meth or ethanol, this would also let your tuner add some ignition toning as well for more safe power


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I think the drive train was designed for a reliable 400 ish, Mountune does have a 500 engine ( at least in England) but everything would need to be beefed up for reliable service.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What about a downpipe? Is that worth the difference. Im not opposed to an engine ive just seen people make 400 hp on the stock engine so i was wanting to get around that. Money isnt really a concern but the mountune engine is 2x the price of the other engines available. I do like their products though.
 

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What about a downpipe? Is that worth the difference. Im not opposed to an engine ive just seen people make 400 hp on the stock engine so i was wanting to get around that. Money isnt really a concern but the mountune engine is 2x the price of the other engines available. I do like their products though.
My tuner stands by the view that upgrading the down pipe to a high flow or decat on the factory turbo results in a minor lose of low down torque.


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The B7 kit if also tuned with Mountune and Randy is already at the limit of safe and reliable. History and data shows torque in excess of 420 at wheels equals short lived life. The internal components need attention if wanting power in excess of what is mentioned above . Do realize we are making 152hp/ltr and that’s insane for a stock car. Now crank it to B7 and your in 180 ballpark which is in top 20 standard production engines ever made.
152 hp/L with an open deck is insane for a stock car for sure!

If you want to push the limits of the 2.3 EcoBoost (400 to 420 whp) while remaining reliable be prepared to pay. You'll also need a stronger clutch.

Direct, 4 port methanol injection with a quality dyno tune would get the most out of the stock engine.

@Snox801 hit 385whp/442wtq with an "air filter, intake tube to replace accordion thing, colder plugs, colder tstat, alky straight meth injection, and a custom livernois tune"

That's the exact setup I want but I can't afford to spend $10k+ on a new engine if it does blow up! It's a 50/50 chance it will blow and if it does are you OK financially without warranty coverage?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess ill get an engine and a bigger turbo and aux fuel for 93 lol maybe ill make it to 500 hp
 

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152 hp/L with an open deck is insane for a stock car for sure!

If you want to push the limits of the 2.3 EcoBoost (400 to 420 whp) while remaining reliable be prepared to pay. You'll also need a stronger clutch.

Direct, 4 port methanol injection with a quality dyno tune would get the most out of the stock engine.

@Snox801 hit 385whp/442wtq with an "air filter, intake tube to replace accordion thing, colder plugs, colder tstat, alky straight meth injection, and a custom livernois tune"

That's the exact setup I want but I can't afford to spend $10k+ on a new engine if it does blow up! It's a 50/50 chance it will blow and if it does are you OK financially without warranty coverage?
50:50 chance of blowing? How do you figure? The meth injection massively increases octane content and reduces charge temps - therefore decreasing preignition risks. Should help increase reliability, rather than placing the engine at risk.


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50:50 chance of blowing? How do you figure? The meth injection massively increases octane content and reduces charge temps - therefore decreasing preignition risks. Should help increase reliability, rather than placing the engine at risk.


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When I say 50/50 it's the same odds as the stock, tuned or any engine blowing up. It either will or will not. Snox's setup is probably one of the best here and what I myself would go for but with a Livernois built block.

 

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When I say 50/50 it's the same odds as the stock, tuned or any engine blowing up. It either will or will not. Snox's setup is probably one of the best here and what I myself would go for but with a Livernois built block.

So lets say we were to buy a fully built engine in order to support higher power numbers than the stock engine physically withstand without blowing. If we purchase a built engine from Mountune, Livernois, or any of the other companies discussed here, obviously yes, this would void the warranty, but if the built engine does blow, couldn't you just assume you can put the stock engine back in and de-tune (remove) and go back to stock tune on stock engine, and just continue on driving like nothing happened. Obviously you would be out the $10k-$15k that you just paid for a fully built engine, but we wouldn't be stuck with any other high dollar repair (replacement) costs to get the car back running (due to voiding Ford warranty). (All assuming you keep the stock block and NOT sell it to try and recoup some of the money you put into the built block).

I guess this would be the best option (if you had that money up front to pay for a built block, and just hold on to the stock one). Because if you try and buy all the upgraded internals separately, and you (or a shop) disassemble your stock engine and re-build it with the upgraded internals, then yes, if something does go wrong and the engine blows, it would not be covered under warranty, you would have no working motor, and you would be stuck with any engine replacement costs that Ford would no longer cover.
 

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A catback exhaust should yield some gains, but you're running out of "cheap" stuff to do outside of that.

Talk to Randy at Mountune about your goals, but like others have said you're at the point of spending big bucks or running aux fueling to get more power. It's been done of course, but you can go silly and throw a big turbo on there with forged internals and make silly power. Not sure about the drivability of the car, but while you're beefing up the internals of the motor you'll need to throw money at the transmission too.

For a few upgrade paths, go to the UK Mountune site and compare the different power packages. Don't forget that the prices there don't include labor, and many of the higher-end packages are intended to be built on the lower-level ones (the ones higher than m400 require the m400 kit as well).

Good luck, let us know what you decide, and include dyno charts!
 

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So lets say we were to buy a fully built engine in order to support higher power numbers than the stock engine physically withstand without blowing. If we purchase a built engine from Mountune, Livernois, or any of the other companies discussed here, obviously yes, this would void the warranty, but if the built engine does blow, couldn't you just assume you can put the stock engine back in and de-tune (remove) and go back to stock tune on stock engine, and just continue on driving like nothing happened. Obviously you would be out the $10k-$15k that you just paid for a fully built engine, but we wouldn't be stuck with any other high dollar repair (replacement) costs to get the car back running (due to voiding Ford warranty). (All assuming you keep the stock block and NOT sell it to try and recoup some of the money you put into the built block).

I guess this would be the best option (if you had that money up front to pay for a built block, and just hold on to the stock one). Because if you try and buy all the upgraded internals separately, and you (or a shop) disassemble your stock engine and re-build it with the upgraded internals, then yes, if something does go wrong and the engine blows, it would not be covered under warranty, you would have no working motor, and you would be stuck with any engine replacement costs that Ford would no longer cover.
I like your thinking and if I did go big with a $15k built engine, dyno tuned with supporting parts I would keep the stock parts for that very reason, to return to stock.

However Ford would know something is up as the ECU has a key start count, that would not jive with the Odometer. Reflash it and the counts reset. Also Ford has various tamper markings on the engine and other components telling them it's been messed with.

No easy way out besides maybe getting an extra ECU and swapping it out when you tune the stock engine. That's probably tamper marked somewhere as well... even if that did work it could definitely be considered fraudish, lol.

Basically if you want to play, you gotta pay. If your super lucky you'll have a great dealership backing you that would overlook any mods in the case of a simple reflash tune, or exhaust. For now my RS will remain stock and I'll keep dreaming of tuning or heavily modifying it....

I keep eyeing up an audi RS3 but it's basically an AWD dragster and the handling is good but not comparable to the RS at all.

The RS is definitely a sweet ride in stock form even if the factory safe tune sucks! I still grin and chuckle every time I drive it.

We all yearn for more power but the cost to reliably do that is quite high. For now I keep saving. Lol.
 

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this is my plan, im doing a Mountune Sleeved Long Block first and putting the factory engine in a corner in the garage. if the second engine goes boom, then i got the stock still

So lets say we were to buy a fully built engine in order to support higher power numbers than the stock engine physically withstand without blowing. If we purchase a built engine from Mountune, Livernois, or any of the other companies discussed here, obviously yes, this would void the warranty, but if the built engine does blow, couldn't you just assume you can put the stock engine back in and de-tune (remove) and go back to stock tune on stock engine, and just continue on driving like nothing happened. Obviously you would be out the $10k-$15k that you just paid for a fully built engine, but we wouldn't be stuck with any other high dollar repair (replacement) costs to get the car back running (due to voiding Ford warranty). (All assuming you keep the stock block and NOT sell it to try and recoup some of the money you put into the built block).

I guess this would be the best option (if you had that money up front to pay for a built block, and just hold on to the stock one). Because if you try and buy all the upgraded internals separately, and you (or a shop) disassemble your stock engine and re-build it with the upgraded internals, then yes, if something does go wrong and the engine blows, it would not be covered under warranty, you would have no working motor, and you would be stuck with any engine replacement costs that Ford would no longer cover.
 

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Hey guys just looking for advise on what i should do to my car next to gain more power/ make more boost.

I currently have the mountune B7 kit and the turbosmart waistgate 14lb spring.

Currently in the process of tweaking tune via datalogs. The initial map sent out to me had to much boost ao the tuner had to pull some out but i loved the power so im wanting to get it back.

How is too much boost determined? Is it simply pressure or do they look at other data numbers.

What mods should i get next to help me make more power?
I have the front mount ets intercooler , green air filter and a catback exhaust from awe with a e30 tune and I’m at 400whp 411tq and I’m at 28.60lbs peak boost , it’s all about the tuners I have a really good one
 

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I would opt for a tune in person. I can understand if there isn't a shop in your area but tunes over the web make me cringe. I'm lucky as I have Cobb two hours south.
 
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