MK3 RS

1384 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by thirdgen89gta, 8 mo ago

r2gui2

Discussion Starter · 8 mo ago

Hello everyone,

I am currently looking at a 2016 Focus RS and was looking for any tips someone might be able to give me about giving the car a proper shakedown. I know these earlier models had a problem with head gaskets back when they first came out, but I wasn't sure if there was anything else I should be specifically on the lookout for. I have access to lifts and what not, i'm not really concerned with everything being tight underneath just wondering if there are any other common points of failure.

Vehicle has 42k miles and is on the way from outside of the rust belt in the US

Thank you in advance,
Gui

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Snox801

· #2 · 8 mo ago

Not much to look over in my opinion.
The way I buy cars is to get them on the hoist look over all the pinch points and make sure no hidden damage or mainly rust. My thought is on anything that is a rare car is as long as the body and chassis is straight the rest can be unbolted and bolted on new.
After that if you see no oil leaks or don’t notice anything weird while test driving you should be good to go.
Maybe a slow moving right and left turn all the way and also backup. That way you could catch a bad cv axle you can’t get with visual or normal test drive.
And of course do the normal clutch check. Make sure it’s not slipping. That’s all the stuff I look for.

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Reactions: 1

Wiley Marmot

· #3 · 8 mo ago

Yea, what Snox said.

I'll add; keep an eye out for stuff that's going to need repair and/or replacing (e.g. tires, rotors, pads, air filter, cabin air filter, wiper blades, etc).

Alignment! My RS came with the front toe in adjusted all the way in on both sides; unbeknownst to me [destroyed my new front tires in 2000 miles

]

Exhaust system; stock? after market? Leaks, smell, drone?!, too loud?

PCM (Power Control Module; aka ECU in many other vehicles)--stock or does it have a tune in it? Mine came with a tune in it; which my dealerships tech wasn't competent enough to diagnosis; let alone revert to OEM. My RS DID NOT come with the tuner that was likely married to my RS's VIN. It cost me a 93 octane dyno tune and some other work to get rid of the permanent CEL on my dash Thankfully; I'd burned 93 octane in my RS since day 1. An OEM state of tune only requires 91 octane minimum, BTW.

Speaking of "other work"; check to see if your potential RS has a cat or not. NO cat usually means a louder exhaust, and will **** off one or both of your O2 sensors; causing the aforementioned permanent CEL on your dash and throwing a P0420 code at the OBD port.

The 2016 RSs have 2 OEM suspension settings: 1: Holy ****! This is really stiff. and 2. This is even stiffer!

Depending on your preferences in ride and handling; and the road conditions in your area; this might be an issue for you and any family/friends that routinely ride with you.

RSs have a GDI (Gas Direct Injection) motor. Something else I didn't know about RSs until someone here put me up on it. The injectors spray directly into the combustion chamber; bypassing the intake valves. This "can" after about 30K miles; lead to carbon build up on the intake valves, and some places in the turbo, from PCV oil recirculated into the intake tract. A fair few RS owners (me too!) have PCV catch can systems installed to prevent the "potential" carbon build up.

RSs are PICKY about engine oil. The motor can in rare instances fall victim to LSPI (another thing I didn't know about until I got here--Low Speed PreIgnition). Which can be instigated by stomping on the throttle at very low revs, and some kinda fumes/deposits in the combustion chamber caused by the WRONG OIL type. Always use an oil rated SN or SN Plus in an RS [aka as EXPENSIVE

]!

Hope I didn't scare you away!

I really enjoy my RS, and it is with a couple of caveats; the nicest car I've ever owned!

Best of luck on your search, hope to hear you here soon!

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phillofoc

· #4 · 8 mo ago

The easiest way to see if the car had a tune is to check the key (ignition) cycle count, but you'll need to buy a good OBDII reader to do so:

2.7 Ignition Cycle Counter - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

2015 - 2020 Ford F150 - 2.7 Ignition Cycle Counter - I recently purchased the ODB MX module in order to perform changes via Forscan. The MX module also has an app (completely separate from Forscan) that you can use to connect and view various information about your truck including diagnostic...

www.f150forum.com

An abnormally low ignition count will indicate a tune, or at least a reflash to stock. Recently cleared trouble codes should also raise an eyebrow.

Other than that, check for engine/trans/ptu leaks. If the oil drain tube looks like it's leaking, it could be a bad head gasket fix. The passenger side seal on the PTU (actually transmission seal) is leaking...for the 3rd time in 23k miles.

If you're tracking the head gasket issue, then check for the brass rivet.

Keep in mind that the stock tune is garbage. It would regularly fall on its face and have a hole in the middle of the power band.

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Reactions: 2

r2gui2

Discussion Starter · #5 · 8 mo ago

Wiley Marmot said:
Yea, what Snox said.

I'll add; keep an eye out for stuff that's going to need repair and/or replacing (e.g. tires, rotors, pads, air filter, cabin air filter, wiper blades, etc).

Alignment! My RS came with the front toe in adjusted all the way in on both sides; unbeknownst to me [destroyed my new front tires in 2000 miles ]

Exhaust system; stock? after market? Leaks, smell, drone?!, too loud?

PCM (Power Control Module; aka ECU in many other vehicles)--stock or does it have a tune in it? Mine came with a tune in it; which my dealerships tech wasn't competent enough to diagnosis; let alone revert to OEM. My RS DID NOT come with the tuner that was likely married to my RS's VIN. It cost me a 93 octane dyno tune and some other work to get rid of the permanent CEL on my dash Thankfully; I'd burned 93 octane in my RS since day 1. An OEM state of tune only requires 91 octane minimum, BTW.

Speaking of "other work"; check to see if your potential RS has a cat or not. NO cat usually means a louder exhaust, and will **** off one or both of your O2 sensors; causing the aforementioned permanent CEL on your dash and throwing a P0420 code at the OBD port.

The 2016 RSs have 2 OEM suspension settings: 1: Holy ****! This is really stiff. and 2. This is even stiffer! Depending on your preferences in ride and handling; and the road conditions in your area; this might be an issue for you and any family/friends that routinely ride with you.

RSs have a GDI (Gas Direct Injection) motor. Something else I didn't know about RSs until someone here put me up on it. The injectors spray directly into the combustion chamber; bypassing the intake valves. This "can" after about 30K miles; lead to carbon build up on the intake valves, and some places in the turbo, from PCV oil recirculated into the intake tract. A fair few RS owners (me too!) have PCV catch can systems installed to prevent the "potential" carbon build up.

RSs are PICKY about engine oil. The motor can in rare instances fall victim to LSPI (another thing I didn't know about until I got here--Low Speed PreIgnition). Which can be instigated by stomping on the throttle at very low revs, and some kinda fumes/deposits in the combustion chamber caused by the WRONG OIL type. Always use an oil rated SN or SN Plus in an RS [aka as EXPENSIVE ]!

Hope I didn't scare you away! I really enjoy my RS, and it is with a couple of caveats; the nicest car I've ever owned!

Best of luck on your search, hope to hear you here soon!

I have heard about the stiff suspension in these! Has anyone had some luck with coilovers, or maybe even bags, making the ride a little better? I run premium gas always, as I have another tuned vehicle so I don't have a choice

. Do you run the recommended 5w-50 always or have you swapped to something thinner? Has anyone had issues with the butterfly valves in the exhaust. Also thank you for such a detailed response!!! I'm super committed to the car either way so no worries haha

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r2gui2

Discussion Starter · #6 · 8 mo ago

phillofoc said:
The easiest way to see if the car had a tune is to check the key (ignition) cycle count, but you'll need to buy a good OBDII reader to do so:

2.7 Ignition Cycle Counter - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

2015 - 2020 Ford F150 - 2.7 Ignition Cycle Counter - I recently purchased the ODB MX module in order to perform changes via Forscan. The MX module also has an app (completely separate from Forscan) that you can use to connect and view various information about your truck including diagnostic...

www.f150forum.com

An abnormally low ignition count will indicate a tune, or at least a reflash to stock. Recently cleared trouble codes should also raise an eyebrow.

Other than that, check for engine/trans/ptu leaks. If the oil drain tube looks like it's leaking, it could be a bad head gasket fix. The passenger side seal on the PTU (actually transmission seal) is leaking...for the 3rd time in 23k miles.

If you're tracking the head gasket issue, then check for the brass rivet.

Keep in mind that the stock tune is garbage. It would regularly fall on its face and have a hole in the middle of the power band.

I have a snap on OBD scan tool at the shop so i can look into the counts, do you think a tune to liven the car up a bit would help? Pretty much my only goal is to be able to pass emissions inspection lol

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phillofoc

· #7 · 8 mo ago

r2gui2 said:
I have a snap on OBD scan tool at the shop so i can look into the counts, do you think a tune to liven the car up a bit would help? Pretty much my only goal is to be able to pass emissions inspection lol

No idea why Ford put such a crappy tune on this car. My personal belief is so the car wouldn't appear to compete with the Mustang GT.

Most of us run tunes around here, but then again this is an enthusiast forum. Lots of options out there. Also, lots of stock RS out there, but most people are beyond their warranty so YOLO.

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Reactions: 1

thirdgen89gta

· #8 · 8 mo ago

A good 93 octane tune really wakes the car ALOT. Gets rid of the 5000rpm dip in power and gives a solid 30-40whp gain with nearly a 50-60lb/ft in torque. Plus better fuel economy to boot.

I need to take my car in for its final service under warranty then its Tune time. Probably gonna go straight to FBO.

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