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Discussion Starter #81
I’ve had my downpipe gasket blow out after install before and this is definitely not that.

This will sound weird to say but it almost sounds as if two gears are meshed together too close and the tooth profiles are bottoming out. Does that make any sense? I’m sure that is impossible to even happen on these cars but that’s what it sounds like
thanks, good to know

noise comes from top of the car and more to chain side it seems
 

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Discussion Starter #83
i am told

The stiffer valvesprings do tend to be more noisey than stock! You should be all good on boosting it

I'll check some more on weekend while swapping slave cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #85 (Edited)
this will go on in the near future

337288



and i had spent all the time looking for source of noise ontop... well checked under.... maybe its this. i pray it is this lol

337289
 

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Discussion Starter #86
any ideas what to do here? looks like with pte turbo , ets charge pipes and cpe engine mounts.... it touches. i was thinking of putting a piece of silicone by cutting silicone rubber pot mat cause the are heat resistant.

the rubbing removed coating from the pipes.


337307
 

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any ideas what to do here? looks like with pte turbo , ets charge pipes and cpe engine mounts.... it touches. i was thinking of putting a piece of silicone by cutting silicone rubber pot mat cause the are heat resistant.

the rubbing removed coating from the pipes.


View attachment 337307
I wonder if you can slot the holes on the bar any. That way you can slightly lower it for some additional clearance.
 

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any ideas what to do here? looks like with pte turbo , ets charge pipes and cpe engine mounts.... it touches. i was thinking of putting a piece of silicone by cutting silicone rubber pot mat cause the are heat resistant.

the rubbing removed coating from the pipes.


View attachment 337307
Put some padding over there. Temperature shouldn't be big issue given that those are Air Pipes.
 

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You could slip a piece of heater hose over the bar and tie wrap it in place. But if it were me I would find a solution that somehow fits the pipe better or alter the bar to form a gap between the pipe and the bar. Have you already loosened the bar just to see if there is any play where it mounts?
 

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@mexrs I had the same issue with my ETS pipe, with the stock turbo. I had a random circular rubber fitting laying around that just matched the diameter of the brace, which I wedged in between to cushion the pipe by about 2-3mm. In addition to that, there was a small amount of play I had with the silicone fittings that freed up another 1-2mm.

But all of that were just bandaid solutions. When I upgraded the turbo, I ultimately switched to the Mountune silicone pipe, which is silicone and also a smaller diameter.

I'll suggest trying to free up some play in the fittings, otherwise swap out for a different pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
@mexrs I had the same issue with my ETS pipe, with the stock turbo. I had a random circular rubber fitting laying around that just matched the diameter of the brace, which I wedged in between to cushion the pipe by about 2-3mm. In addition to that, there was a small amount of play I had with the silicone fittings that freed up another 1-2mm.

But all of that were just bandaid solutions. When I upgraded the turbo, I ultimately switched to the Mountune silicone pipe, which is silicone and also a smaller diameter.

I'll suggest trying to free up some play in the fittings, otherwise swap out for a different pipe.
might need to do.that but I think if I make a dent in it, problem solved. since I have it marked from where paint came off the charge pipe.

transmission is up with new slave cylinder and new seal on the output shaft. fingers crossed cause I doubt it.was the main engine seal lol.

had to do this to get the xtreme twin disk to align.

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337352


337353
 

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Goodness, how could the alignment tool be that far wrong? Is it not designed for this clutch application?

Ciao
When I found the alignment tool issue I was blown away. At first I thought it was just my kit. But then I looked at all of the photos of the kit and they had the same tool.
When I contacted X-Clutch they said I was the first person to mention the kit contained the wrong size alignment tool. At that time the kit had been out for over a year. How in the world did all of the companies selling the clutch and “engine builders” miss the issue? Who knows... but I know it caused more then a few headaches.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
by the way, regarding the alignment tool. i heard back from xtreme. Their kits now come with a metal alignment tool and right size. i contacted them to at least add some install tips lol but looks like since sometime last year or early this year they no longer have the plastic tool
 

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Discussion Starter #100 (Edited)
I believe it was off. oops.

I had aligned timing by putting a bolt through pulley aligning hole with chain cover threaded hole.

today I inserted the tdc timing pin in engine.

the hole does not align :oops::oops: so now I.realigned the position sensor using the alignment tool. apparently keyed crank need to use the pin.

will start in a while

pray for me lol

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337467


Based on this I believe once I crank it I'm golden.

PINGING, SPARK KNOCK, OR PRE-IGNITION

Pinging or spark knock is properly called "pre-ignition" and is often incorrectly called "valve noise" because it sounds similar to loose valves that need adjusting. The difference is that loose valves will make noise all the time, whereas pre-ignition happens on acceleration or under a load. You might hear it when going up a hill on the interstate: a rattling sound that goes away when you downshift or get off the gas.
 
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