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Rebuilt engines typically smoke on the initial start,sometimes quite a bit. Its just residue oil on the hot manifold and oil that finds its way into the exhaust from oiling the bores during assembly.
Generally burns off within 5 min running although if you have an exhaust system thats copped oil from a major failure then it can be a very long process to burn it out. I've seen mufflers replaced because the time to burn out the residue oil would be just too long.

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Discussion Starter #62
caliper arrived today 馃帄 car is now on the ground but it got late and decided better to do a test drive tomorrow instead in daylight.

the car seems to run rough idle wise. but might get better after a drive as it re learns.

could also be the tune. got a check engine light and the code was o2 sensor rich... guessing alex did not set it to hide on dash like my previous tune on old engine

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When I installed my downpipe due to the coating user by the manufacturer, there were 5-10 minutes where white smoke came out through the engine bay .


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caliper arrived today 馃帄 car is now on the ground but it got late and decided better to do a test drive tomorrow instead in daylight.

the car seems to run rough idle wise. but might get better after a drive as it re learns.

could also be the tune. got a check engine light and the code was o2 sensor rich... guessing alex did not set it to hide on dash like my previous tune on old engine

View attachment 337095


View attachment 337096
With the BSD and X-Clutch you should ask for a higher idle. Mine is around 900 rpm. Otherwise you鈥檒l have a ton of rattle from the clutch/transmission and it will sometimes stubble at idle. It鈥檒l still rattle, but not nearly as bad.
 

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With the BSD and X-Clutch you should ask for a higher idle. Mine is around 900 rpm. Otherwise you鈥檒l have a ton of rattle from the clutch/transmission and it will sometimes stubble at idle. It鈥檒l still rattle, but not nearly as bad.
Same with stock, TBH. I have it with a 900rpm idle and it's flawless. Tested cobb OTS with standard idle RPM a few months ago and boy that thing has a rough idle... I completely forgot how ugly it was (specially with A/C on).
 

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Discussion Starter #66
i checked under car and see this. can either be slave cylinder or seal behind it. I should have changed slave cylinder while it was out 馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵馃槵

the seal behind the slave cylinder barely has any miles. maybe 25


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and this after I had left it 7 hrs.

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I put a container to see actual leak volume tomorrow.

I'm betting its slave cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #67
nothing in container just that one drop. either way dropin the transmission now is a peace of cake after pulling engine lol
 

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Discussion Starter #68
After driving it and park the leak drips. Brake oil resevoir seems to be holding so it might be the transmission seal unless oil is coming from the back and running down the transmission. Will see tomorrow.
 

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After driving it and park the leak drips. Brake oil resevoir seems to be holding so it might be the transmission seal unless oil is coming from the back and running down the transmission. Will see tomorrow.
I assumed that you had identified it as brake fluid. Even an annoying and significant leak will be hard to pick up from the reservoir level in a short drive.If its not brake fluid then it may also be the rear main engine seal. Several engine builders wont supply engines with the rear seal fitted as they dont want to have to warranty it. They say they have too many issues withtem leaking so leave it to the customer to fit them.

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Discussion Starter #70
but considering this engine went on an engine dyno before being sent, I am ruling that out for now. Also during install engine had oil in it and rear main seal area was bone dry. only way to know I guess will be to check tomorrow and later if not obviouse, drop the transmission and change both slave cylinder and seal behind it.
 

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but considering this engine went on an engine dyno before being sent, I am ruling that out for now. Also during install engine had oil in it and rear main seal area was bone dry. only way to know I guess will be to check tomorrow and later if not obviouse, drop the transmission and change both slave cylinder and seal behind it.
Why not put UV dye in your transmission fluid then running the car for a few miles before pulling it? That way you can at least eliminate one option before tearing the car apart.

Usually you can tell by smell what the different fluids are. Also, have you checked to see what the color of the engine oil is? Usually after a few drives it starts to change color, and if it's a different color than your leak it could another variable. Pulling the slave cylinder isn't a bad idea, many of the early ones had plastic parts that would break and it may be worth swapping out a new one with metal (search the forums for the clutch going to the floor).
 
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