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Discussion Starter #181
It's a shame that you just found out now, Mountune had their IC on sale at Black Friday prices for a really long time. I tried to get ETS during their insane sale but they refused to ship to California.

What about getting the tab fixed by a local welding shop? Way cheaper than a new IC, especially if it's just a broken tab.
i don't have a good Welter around here. last time i tried to weld aluminium they made a mess.


I currently have the Mountune IC but regret not buying the Mishimoto IC.
If I damage the Mountune, I’ll change it to the Mishimoto item
what do you prefer about mishimoto over what you have?



ETS will also repair damages to their products. Just shoot them a message.
I'm in mexico so that not going to work :(
 

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Mishimoto IC is bigger than the Mountune IC and Mishimoto published their testing on the IC including average temps and actual power gained.

Mishimoto Warranty lifetime.
Mountune Warranty ends when you open the box.

Mountune would not say anything so it may be just as good as the factory IC in the same way the Mountune inlet manifold flows no better than the plastic OEM item, it just looks pretty.
 

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I currently have the Mountune IC but regret not buying the Mishimoto IC.
If I damage the Mountune, I’ll change it to the Mishimoto item
I went the Mishimoto route and a SteamSpeed hot pipe and don't regret it at all. It was heavy but it is extremely solid and mounts very well. I recall going through all sorts of performance comparisons and realized it was right up there with much more costly units. I have no idea anymore what the actual numbers were and I'm at the point where I just daily drive it.
 

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i don't have a good Welter around here. last time i tried to weld aluminium they made a mess.
Shout me a PM, I know of a very good aluminum welder in Mexico City. He ain't cheap but he does an excellent job. He will certainly be cheaper than a new IC.

I make aluminum tooling for a living. I use him all the time to weld my customers' wared or damaged parts or my guys' machining mistakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Shout me a PM, I know of a very good aluminum welder in Mexico City. He ain't cheap but he does an excellent job. He will certainly be cheaper than a new IC.

I make aluminum tooling for a living. I use him all the time to weld my customers' wared or damaged parts or my guys' machining mistakes.
Thanks man, I ended up finding a place about 1 hour away that i think i will eventually take it to.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
339502
Ended up sorting the A/C issue i had. It was something very simply that caused the headache lol. When it was taken apart, the tubes where sealed to prevent dirt or anything getting into the lines. We forgot to remove a block that was put in the tube. It was such a perfect fit it got overlooked.







Does anyone know what injector size the TUNE+ kit uses? The website just states "4 Flow Matched Bosch Injectors" I looked at the injectors and can't believe they actually burned off the last 3 digits of part number. 0 280 158 xxx

Anyone using the kit and can confirm what they are suppose to be?
 

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AdamTune+

Just a thought!!!

I suppose he had to put in Time, Effort, and quite a few $$$$ to make his kits work. Why then should Joe Tightbutt get all the information for free from someone else having done all the hard work and their knowledge.

MexRS
How is the map development going on, anymore revisions and hows the starting and driving?
 

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My additional injectors are 1000cc
units as my build is very similar to Ron Henry’s 600bhp build.

Just had my first Dyno mapping session on Friday and achieved 540 in 4wd mode.
Boost is sub 30psi I’ll find out more next week. As my car is nearly 250 miles away being built.
This coming week single map strategy to run flex fuel methanol mapping and Dyno session
 

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Discussion Starter #193
My additional injectors are 1000cc
units as my build is very similar to Ron Henry’s 600bhp build.

Just had my first Dyno mapping session on Friday and achieved 540 in 4wd mode.
Boost is sub 30psi I’ll find out more next week. As my car is nearly 250 miles away being built.
This coming week single map strategy to run flex fuel methanol mapping and Dyno session
you are running e85 correct?
 

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Should I be hesitant to build a 2018 motor then?
Nope, heres the deal:

How much power?
Over 550 at wheels is easily better suited to a 2.0 block. solid deck.
Under that figure use the 2.3 and gain better cooling efficiency.

Power is the dramatic change in ambient temp to combustion. So a colder block and combustion chamber will in theory always make more power, downside is the colder block is open decked, and the liners are squeezed in compression force to the cyl head. This open design has limits due to the walking of the liners since compression alone cant hold that power. OEm tried to use 2.0 closed deck from ST and couldn't even come close to the emissions required, hence the 2.3 open deck. This design allows much better cooling and hot spot retention. As hot spots are only able to be cooled with more fuel. Get it, emissions BS.
That’s not really true. Here the deal I ya e a over 500 awhp Rs and has lms do mine start to finish. I’ve had no issues so it can be done. Also it’s complete garbage to say the 2.0 block is better. Depends on what’s better. My 2.3 block will hold 800hp. And has the means to cool that up. Problem is no one goes that high. What is the issue is it’s much easier to use a 2.0 block for most builders. To do a 2.3 you need the proper machines and the ability to do it. Which cost more. Not saying a 2.0 is the wrong way cause I have one of those also.
Just have to put a stop to all this about it being better. Not trying to ruffle feather but don’t let this mex’s Story scare you . Done right the first time and you are all set. Plus keep in mind these are so new everyone has a learning curve my build wasn’t without kinks but it’s very nice now.
 

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That’s not really true. Here the deal I ya e a over 500 awhp Rs and has lms do mine start to finish. I’ve had no issues so it can be done. Also it’s complete garbage to say the 2.0 block is better. Depends on what’s better. My 2.3 block will hold 800hp. And has the means to cool that up. Problem is no one goes that high. What is the issue is it’s much easier to use a 2.0 block for most builders. To do a 2.3 you need the proper machines and the ability to do it. Which cost more. Not saying a 2.0 is the wrong way cause I have one of those also.
Just have to put a stop to all this about it being better. Not trying to ruffle feather but don’t let this mex’s Story scare you . Done right the first time and you are all set. Plus keep in mind these are so new everyone has a learning curve my build wasn’t without kinks but it’s very nice now.
Was that typed on a phone, because I can't even understand half of what you're saying. At minimum, explain what was done to the 2.3 block to allow higher power than stock, let alone 800HP. You just mention special machines (as far as I can understand), and nothing else. Without that your post is meaningless.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
That’s not really true. Here the deal I ya e a over 500 awhp Rs and has lms do mine start to finish. I’ve had no issues so it can be done. Also it’s complete garbage to say the 2.0 block is better. Depends on what’s better. My 2.3 block will hold 800hp. And has the means to cool that up. Problem is no one goes that high. What is the issue is it’s much easier to use a 2.0 block for most builders. To do a 2.3 you need the proper machines and the ability to do it. Which cost more. Not saying a 2.0 is the wrong way cause I have one of those also.
Just have to put a stop to all this about it being better. Not trying to ruffle feather but don’t let this mex’s Story scare you . Done right the first time and you are all set. Plus keep in mind these are so new everyone has a learning curve my build wasn’t without kinks but it’s very nice now.
Just to point out that my first build with 2.3 L did NOT fail due to block design.

I can only point to it having been an issue with the install of bigger valves and valve guide and machining process

or

The base tune from the local tuner with no experience on tuning ecoboost engines

The new engine is.a 2L semi opened deck block and machines for the 2.3 forged internals., balanced crankshaft and balance shaft delete. Ported head with upgraded cams, valves and springs.

im suppose to be good for 650 whp and more than happy since my goal is 470 - 500.
 

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That’s not really true. Here the deal I ya e a over 500 awhp Rs and has lms do mine start to finish. I’ve had no issues so it can be done. Also it’s complete garbage to say the 2.0 block is better. Depends on what’s better. My 2.3 block will hold 800hp. And has the means to cool that up. Problem is no one goes that high. What is the issue is it’s much easier to use a 2.0 block for most builders. To do a 2.3 you need the proper machines and the ability to do it. Which cost more. Not saying a 2.0 is the wrong way cause I have one of those also.
Just have to put a stop to all this about it being better. Not trying to ruffle feather but don’t let this mex’s Story scare you . Done right the first time and you are all set. Plus keep in mind these are so new everyone has a learning curve my build wasn’t without kinks but it’s very nice now.
Pretty vague statement in terms of cost, machines , purpose etc. The op under most impressions was affordable builds with beefed up Internals . Going full 15k+ race engine with liners and upper cyl supports etc are well beyond most RS customers. Not here to create a pissing match but I have quite a bit of experience with the 2.0 and it’s limits , affordability and availability of parts to easily achieve 600hp reliably for 100k miles with zero machining required. Yet owners of tuned stangs (same block) are having issues on stock liner set ups at anything over 500. This ain’t what I read it’s what I know from shops I frequent and owners I know personally. Def ain’t my first rodeo. 👊🏻
 
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