You'll want to get a tune specifically made for your "new" car. Tuner will get you to record logs and they'll create a base line tune then tune it in to any mods you have.
Looking for some guidance with Cobb AP
So I'm new the RS world and never really dealt with a Cobb accessport before. This RS I just got into came with an access port, that I really dont know much about. Though I am learning. I keep hearing after EPA crack down that theses accessports are almost useless?
So I have a couple questions, but first since I got this RS within the first 500 miles of owning it the Engine blew while it was being test driven by a shop. I got a Remanned Ford Replacement engine, new T-Case, and some new front axels for it at no cost to me. Shop told me it possibly blew or bent a Rod that blew a chunk of the block out. Now, I haven't messed with any of the maps since I drove this car off the dealer lot. Looking through AP I believe its currently running a map named "Stage2 91 OCT or 95 RON". I have no idea what modifications were done to the last engine internally. All i know is is visually it looks all stock But I am back to a stock engine and I'm really concerned about running a map that the engine is not built for and voiding the Ford warranty if the engine happens to go again. I got into this RS because it was a hell of deal I think, just always hated the fact that I was hopping into someone else's project that I have no knowledge of modification (dealer did not know much about the car either).
Here is a couple question I have if someone could assist.
(1) I need to go back to a stock map for now. There's a Map named "Stage0 v306.ptm" in my accessport. Does anyone know if that is the "stock" map? Or how one would acquire a stock map for the RS. Or would stage1 maps still be safe to run since I have no upgraded intake, air box, intercoolers, or exhaust?
Answered my own question just had to read description in Manager smh.
(2) How can you confirm that the AP is married to your particular RS. Just looking through Accessport Manager then Accessport Info My vehicle Name is "USDM 2017-2018 Focus RS", even though its a 16 model. That something I should I be worried about?
(3) This may sound stupid but is there anything else need to switch Maps. More so playing with settings AP recommends being on a 10AMP charger while switching maps. Does any one follow that direction or can you flash off battery and what voltage would be "safe" before proceeding to switch maps if running of battery?
Thanks in advance my search through threads didn't come up with much tailored to what I was really looking for. Just any insight into what on my AP would be greatly appreciated. I'm still reading through threads to see what others came into with their APs. Right now, I'm still driving in a break in period but want to be safe when I finally get out of the break in period to have a little more fun without damaging anything.
So I have a couple questions, but first since I got this RS within the first 500 miles of owning it the Engine blew while it was being test driven by a shop. I got a Remanned Ford Replacement engine, new T-Case, and some new front axels for it at no cost to me. Shop told me it possibly blew or bent a Rod that blew a chunk of the block out. Now, I haven't messed with any of the maps since I drove this car off the dealer lot. Looking through AP I believe its currently running a map named "Stage2 91 OCT or 95 RON". I have no idea what modifications were done to the last engine internally. All i know is is visually it looks all stock But I am back to a stock engine and I'm really concerned about running a map that the engine is not built for and voiding the Ford warranty if the engine happens to go again. I got into this RS because it was a hell of deal I think, just always hated the fact that I was hopping into someone else's project that I have no knowledge of modification (dealer did not know much about the car either).
Here is a couple question I have if someone could assist.
Answered my own question just had to read description in Manager smh.
(2) How can you confirm that the AP is married to your particular RS. Just looking through Accessport Manager then Accessport Info My vehicle Name is "USDM 2017-2018 Focus RS", even though its a 16 model. That something I should I be worried about?
(3) This may sound stupid but is there anything else need to switch Maps. More so playing with settings AP recommends being on a 10AMP charger while switching maps. Does any one follow that direction or can you flash off battery and what voltage would be "safe" before proceeding to switch maps if running of battery?
Thanks in advance my search through threads didn't come up with much tailored to what I was really looking for. Just any insight into what on my AP would be greatly appreciated. I'm still reading through threads to see what others came into with their APs. Right now, I'm still driving in a break in period but want to be safe when I finally get out of the break in period to have a little more fun without damaging anything.
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Naaah. You can still modify all the important bits. Afaik the only things you can't do is defeat check-engine lights having to do with emissions - e.g. someone running without a catalytic converter can't spoof that everything is fine. You don't need to mess with that unless you are making some really high power, with a built engine, etc etc. You can 100% tune it fine without messing with emissions equipment.I keep hearing after EPA crack down that theses accessports are almost useless?
Sweet man appreciate the insight!Naaah. You can still modify all the important bits. Afaik the only things you can't do is defeat check-engine lights having to do with emissions - e.g. someone running without a catalytic converter can't spoof that everything is fine. You don't need to mess with that unless you are making some really high power, with a built engine, etc etc. You can 100% tune it fine without messing with emissions equipment.
What braap and Asura said.
I had Livernois Motorsports do a 93 O dyno tune on mine; after they put it back in EPA compliance with an OEM down pipe and cat (courtesy of Snox801). Car runs great and is about 65HP over stock AND in EPA compliance.
Keep us posted on your project!
I had Livernois Motorsports do a 93 O dyno tune on mine; after they put it back in EPA compliance with an OEM down pipe and cat (courtesy of Snox801). Car runs great and is about 65HP over stock AND in EPA compliance.
Keep us posted on your project!
All you should need to run a stage 2 ots map is an upgraded intercooler - does the fmic have the blanking plate on it or can you tell if it's aftermarket or not? These maps are not optimized but should be fine in the short term while breaking in the new engine.
To return to the stock map, you have to uninstall the accessport from the main menu on the AP screen. Stage 0 map makes no changes to the stock tune but the AP will still be married to the cars' ECU.
If your ECU is married to an AP and you try and bring the car in for warranty work related to the powertrain (which would be expired now through ford unless you bought an extended warranty), Ford will deny the claim if they detect the AP. Uninstalling the AP before you bring it in won't help you either - this will reset the "key turn" count which is more or less the smoking gun indicating they have a tuned vehicle on their hands. Ask me how I know.
My stage 1 car with nothing more than an air filter and pro-tune failed in the exact same way while I was driving it. Ford denied the claim and I had to replace the engine and turbo on my dime. I think the con rods were updated between 16 and 17 MY, so if you're reman engine is new enough, hopefully it got the better rods. If my new engine wasn't built with forged rods, pistons, and a closed deck, i'd be running the stock map. Some might disagree and will say these can handle the added power, but for how long? My stock engine last less than 50K miles. I'm not shelling out another $20k if it blows up again - it'll be a part out if this engine fails.
To return to the stock map, you have to uninstall the accessport from the main menu on the AP screen. Stage 0 map makes no changes to the stock tune but the AP will still be married to the cars' ECU.
If your ECU is married to an AP and you try and bring the car in for warranty work related to the powertrain (which would be expired now through ford unless you bought an extended warranty), Ford will deny the claim if they detect the AP. Uninstalling the AP before you bring it in won't help you either - this will reset the "key turn" count which is more or less the smoking gun indicating they have a tuned vehicle on their hands. Ask me how I know.
My stage 1 car with nothing more than an air filter and pro-tune failed in the exact same way while I was driving it. Ford denied the claim and I had to replace the engine and turbo on my dime. I think the con rods were updated between 16 and 17 MY, so if you're reman engine is new enough, hopefully it got the better rods. If my new engine wasn't built with forged rods, pistons, and a closed deck, i'd be running the stock map. Some might disagree and will say these can handle the added power, but for how long? My stock engine last less than 50K miles. I'm not shelling out another $20k if it blows up again - it'll be a part out if this engine fails.
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