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Well, the Tractive suspension saga has finally got an outcome. The key figures are:
1/ The tractive shock has 124mm of piston travel from top of stroke to when it just kisses the bump rubber. The bumper rubber is 50mm long and progressive.
2/ When installed to tt suspension specifications the piston sits at 62mm of stroke (that is, mid travel).
3/ When installed as standard, the tractive coil over suspension seems to ride at 602mm, as opposed to 588mm standard. In other words, it is ~14mm higher than the standard front struts.
4/ There is a limited safe range by which the spring perch can be raised to raise the car. The limit is when the inverted strut is no longer supported by the third bearing. This happens at about 20mm raised from standard recommended perch height (i.e. 62mm mid travel for piston). If the strut is not supported by the third bearing it will fail. The safe raising limit is 10mm - no more!
5/ Lowering the perch height (i.e. moving the piston towards the bump rubber) is much safer. The limit is avoiding hard contact on the bump stops when riding ripple strips or compressions. Lowering by 15mm still leaves ~ 47mm bump travel before kissing the progressive bump stop. This is the figure I will be aiming for as an initial attempt.

So, we have made a 15mm spacer. This gives the following ride height figures when perch height is adjusted - having measured the bearings etc this should be safe but YMMV:
Track: 15mm spacer with perch height lowered 15mm from standard height. Net result = standard ride height as recommended for Tractive (which is ~14mm higher than ford standard).
Street/Gravel:
15mm spacer + 10mm lift = standard Tractive ride height + 25mm (which is 39mm higher than ford standard).

So the track configuration is what we will be running at the Whiteline tarmac rallysprint (17th November) check it out here, and the gravel configuration at the next Khanacross (15th). I'll report back on how much toe changes between the two settings. The initial take is to set toe for track use and live with what we get for gravel provided it is not too far out. If it is, it will be a matter of counting turns on the tie rod ends to adjust and checking with a measure.
And what spring rates are you at?


I think 16 Ford Focus RS Grey
Eibach Sways /Catless Dp /Adamtuned Auxfuel Kit/ Cobb AdamTuned/ Dsc Sport Controller/ Radium PcV CC./K+N air filter /Tema 4x4 30mm spacer/e85/massive sway endlinks//

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Not yet. Next thing scheduled prior to khanacross is ice mode and panic brake disable. Khanacross is on a dirt paddock with lots of tussocky grass and it sometimes goes into ice mode and won't stop.

I have @Kacper ABS program I will put in and see if that helps. I also have a second and module and will setup to act as a spoof and plug it in if needed. The real abs is then inactive.

I'll let you know how it goes. Rdu is low on list at present. Spring rates are standard tractive springs. I need to look up specs but don't have them with me.
 

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I have @Kacper ABS program I will put in and see if that helps. I also have a second and module and will setup to act as a spoof and plug it in if needed. The real abs is then inactive.
And half of the torque vectoring that makes the RS interesting in the first place, and any front dif function unless you have an '18. I developed that approach and found it to be slower and less consistent. I'm curious to see how this other ABS flash works for you in a RallyCross type use. Please report back.
 

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And half of the torque vectoring that makes the RS interesting in the first place, and any front dif function unless you have an '18. I developed that approach and found it to be slower and less consistent. I'm curious to see how this other ABS flash works for you in a RallyCross type use. Please report back.
He's got the wavetrac front LSD, so that should be taking up the slack of losing the brake vectoring.
 

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I'll report back on how it all works. I'll run two variants with the wavetrac, one with @Kacper abs code from the ford academy, the other with abs totally removed. I'll do this for both khanacross and rallysprint. Should get a reasonable feel. Rally sprint has no high speed corners so am going to set rear shocks harder for better rotation. No rdu changes at present.

Here are the final specs
346636


346637


Note, I will never run at the lowest setting, the ford original ride height, as only 35mm of travel or so to bump rubber. I may run higher by 622 + 10mm which is my maximum high position if need be.

Note toe varies nicely. A bit of toe out at 602 which is my track height. 622 is 2.5mm in which is fine for road and gravel. I can change heights without needing to change toe. Don't know about changing rear yet though
 

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...…...Note, I will never run at the lowest setting, the ford original ride height, as only 35mm of travel or so to bump rubber. I may run higher by 622 + 10mm which is my maximum high position if need be.

Note toe varies nicely. A bit of toe out at 602 which is my track height. 622 is 2.5mm in which is fine for road and gravel. I can change heights without needing to change toe. Don't know about changing rear yet though
I assume the ride height measurements are from ground to top of fender opening over wheel center?
 

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I'll report back on how it all works. I'll run two variants with the wavetrac, one with @Kacper abs code from the ford academy,
Cool stuff, thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the results.

So it has been determined that this mystery ABS config was made for the Ford Academy? Have they sorted out a way to back up your current config and go back to it? That's my concern, I'm much happier with the new one that was released to address brake freeze on long stretches than the original and wouldn't want to go backwards if this isn't better.
 

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Hey all! Late to the game here. Just finished going through this thread. As a newbie to suspension and a short term RS owner (~9 months) I do not know much about it but I know what I want. Which is the most lift and clearance possible. Enough of a poser to giver up things for looks as well. The lifted rally look is my favorite. I would like to do this and not give up how the RS handles day to day duties. I am more likely to travel rural/gravel roads than a race track. Was interested to hear more about the Rebel Devil kit but no user reviews seem to exist and only the photos on their website. 320i on here has gone quite the journey on his own but it sounds complicated with a lot of trial and error. So if there is any more life in this thread and some of you have the willpower to break things down sesame street style for my comprehension I'd appreciate it. In a perfect word I'd be able to lift the car 6" and widen it's stance ~3". 🙃

Car is a 2017 RS in white box stock. Rota Grid wheels 18X9.5 size.
Things that will be done by year end.
Skid plates, Intake, Cobb tuner, Intercooler, and since I got a deal for almost nothing the mountune radiator.
Next to do:
I want to lift it!
Next year after I save for it again:
Rebuild transmission, Quaife diff (or comparable), clutch, beefier half shafts.
I don't expect to chase big power but I like knowing the drive line will not be the weak link.
 

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It’s all based on your budget. Lifting 6” is not going to happen. Those of us who’ve lifted the 2” or so we’re already having CV angle issues. You’d need to get some full custom everything including subframes, LCA’s, body lifts etc. At that point you might as well buy an ex-rally car.

you can go the regular person baller route with Reiger coilovers, custom skidplates, AP racing brake kit etc etc.

or you could do the budget version that was pretty cost effective for the end result. 30mm lift spacers, early focus ST brakes, braid 15” wheels with gravel tires, off the shelf skidplate
 

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It’s all based on your budget. Lifting 6” is not going to happen. Those of us who’ve lifted the 2” or so we’re already having CV angle issues. You’d need to get some full custom everything including subframes, LCA’s, body lifts etc. At that point you might as well buy an ex-rally car.

you can go the regular person baller route with Reiger coilovers, custom skidplates, AP racing brake kit etc etc.

or you could do the budget version that was pretty cost effective for the end result. 30mm lift spacers, early focus ST brakes, braid 15” wheels with gravel tires, off the shelf skidplate
I figured 6" was crazy. So are the Rebel claims of 3 inch not true? Again no reviews I can find. If they are 2600 bucks and one stop shopping seems appealing. Thanks for speaking up.
 

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Only one person on here has done the RDC kit (@gmoneyjive) but he hasn’t posted here for some time now. I assume lots of the kit is based on base-model focus parts (springs, shock length, LCA etc). I didn’t go that route but I assume it’s a pretty solid setup.

for all we know the RDC kit could be based on Ford Escape parts ¯\(ツ)
 

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I just went ahead and ordered the 40mm lift spacers for the rear. I'm loving the height on the front, and hopefully the extra 10mm will even it out a bit more, otherwise I'll have to look at some springs.

I also drove around yesterday, and the combo of the KW's and the 17" setup is crazy comfy.

View attachment 343077
I'm buying spacers for my RS and looking for the 400mm at Tema 4x4 I can't find them, can you tell me where did you buy the 40mm spacers?

Thanks
 

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I'm buying spacers for my RS and looking for the 400mm at Tema 4x4 I can't find them, can you tell me where did you buy the 40mm spacers?

Thanks
i think it’s a typo. I’ve only ever seen the 30mm tema4x4 kit, which is the one I have.
 

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Yes, you should find the link on Ford.com that describes the actual car that was released in 2016 😊

I’m sorry but either you don’t have the car, or you don’t know how to drive it because you would know.

The 2016-2018 Ford Focus RS does not have a brake-based torque vectoring system.
 

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Yes, you should find the link on Ford.com that describes the actual car that was released in 2016 😊

I’m sorry but either you don’t have the car, or you don’t know how to drive it because you would know.

The 2016-2018 Ford Focus RS does not have a brake-based torque vectoring system.
I have (well, had) much respect for your wealth of knowledge and very much appreciate all your contributions to this community. I definitely learned a few things from your posts, and that I'm grateful for.

You obviously have a some kind of chip on your shoulder, having to quote a post of mine from 3 months ago (which was a reply to someone else and had nothing to do with the thread topic) just to point out what? That I'm wrong and that I "either don’t have the car" or "don’t know how to drive it"?

Ok, got it, congrats on your internet superiority.
 

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Yes, you should find the link on Ford.com that describes the actual car that was released in 2016 😊

I’m sorry but either you don’t have the car, or you don’t know how to drive it because you would know.

The 2016-2018 Ford Focus RS does not have a brake-based torque vectoring system.
Oh axel, bless your heart buddy. There is some miscommunication going on here. Please clarify your statement.

Here's the Ford statements of FACT that the RS uses the brakes for the Traction Control portion (which is affectionally called brake torque biasing) of the Stability Control, even in Track Mode.

Track
This mode is for track use only. Vehicle settings tuned for aggressive driving. The system reduces brake system intervention from the stability control system and optimizes the road-holding ability of your vehicle. Electronic stability control is set to reduced mode while the traction control system is disabled apart from the electronic limited slip differential function. Engine interventions from the stability control and traction control systems are also disabled.

Enhanced Torque Vectoring Control
The system consists of two elements:

• Torque vectoring control.
Automatically applies brake torque on the inner wheel in a curve to increase traction and decrease understeer.

• Cornering understeer control.
Automatically controls the traction response of the vehicle under braking and acceleration on high and low friction surfaces. Unlike electronic stability control, enhanced torque vectoring control does not slow the vehicle. The system limits excessive wheel slip giving greater cornering ability.

The system does not disable enhanced torque vectoring control if you
switch the stability control system or

traction control system off.



In addition to enhanced torque vectoring control, your vehicle also has all-wheel drive with dynamic torque vectoring. This feature further improves the road-holding and traction abilities of your vehicle. See All-Wheel Drive (page 13).



These FACTS are why the brakes on Ford Performance Vehicles all suffer from heat-related problems. The FiestaST and the FocusRS for sure as I have both... Also have a Raptor, but haven't had it on a "track".
 

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I have (well, had) much respect for your wealth of knowledge and very much appreciate all your contributions to this community. I definitely learned a few things from your posts, and that I'm grateful for.

You obviously have a some kind of chip on your shoulder, having to quote a post of mine from 3 months ago (which was a reply to someone else and had nothing to do with the thread topic) just to point out what? That I'm wrong and that I "either don’t have the car" or "don’t know how to drive it"?

Ok, got it, congrats on your internet superiority.
349477
 

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Sorry I did not meant to offend anyone. The RS does not have brake-based torque vectoring. Just get over it.

An unloaded front wheel spins freely with or without the Quaife ATB and the brakes never enter into action to correct this. I don’t know where those quotes come from, maybe some pre-product-release marketing stuff based on projections from the ST, but that system never made it to the RS.

The ESC can brake individual wheels and does this to keep the car on what it thinks is the intended trajectory. It uses the vacuum pump and the brake booster and makes a very distinctive bursting buzzing sound when operating, a rapidly pulsating sound very similar to the ABS, that cannot be heard when the front loses traction.

When the driving helpers are active, the PCM actively limits the engine torque through the electronic throttle to avoid wheel spin and keep the car stable.

During threshold cornering in Normal mode with ESC on (the power-on default) the car simply refuses to accelerate as you depress the throttle while the slip indicator blinks. The prerequisite for that is to enter the corner fast enough so the car is unstable and at the edge of it’s grip envelope. You can keep the throttle floored and nothing happens.

If ESC is long-disabled the engine will respond normally and the inner front wheel will spin just as it does with any open diff. At no point any brake action can be heard or felt.

This behavior is trivially easy to reproduce: just find a uphill hairpin, preferably wet, and floor the throttle with the steering at full lock: either the car won’t respond at all or very mildly (ESC on) or the inner front wheel will spin (together with the very perceptible help from the outer rear, which will induce a spin if you insist.)

I have driven more than 12 cumulative months on studded tires, which magnifies any traction shortcomings and never I felt the front was doing anything to prevent wheel spin in any circumstance. On snow (and on actual roads, not smooth parking lots) the car is exactly as unpredictable at the front as one with an open diff, where one, the other, or both front wheels randomly spin as the grip varies.

Again this is easy to reproduce: just put the right mix of lateral force, steering angle, and throttle while the car is on the verge of losing traction.

The only way a found to mitigate the problem was to get a motorsport company (Drexler) to build a differential with the proper ramps and preload which I believe are suitable for this car.

The new diff is a real limited slip differential with clutch packs, as opposed to helical diffs which aren’t.

The result is clearly an improvement in the sense that when the front wheels spin, they both spin together now, as opposed to randomly. I still hit the problem where the torque taken by the rear still leaves too much to the front wheels and they still spin.

My solution to that is multiple levels of boost with a snow, wet, and dry map slot I can select from the steering (this is a COBB feature.) - This roughly translates to 1-1.1, 1.4-1.5, and 1.8-1.9 bar of boost, give or take. I’ve tried the RDU hacks hoping to get to a more balanced front/rear power distribution and reverted to stock as I find them dangerous.

Some things can be seen or felt only when pushing the car, and the ESC simply don’t let you do that by severely limiting the engine output, so the first thing to do to convince oneself there is no traction assistance at the front is to go for a spin in the wet, somewhere twisty and bumpy, and listen carefully as well as observe the car behavior beyond its grip limits, with and without ESC. This will also show the limits of the ABS system, which I wish we could disable.
 
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