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No I’ve never run the Vorshlag top mounts. You need to be careful when adding caster, although turn in is improved, it can also make the front end twitchy at high speed and cause vibration in extreme circumstances. Are you doing track days in the car? For auto cross, 0.5-1* of caster will be beneficial to get the car to turn in on tight, technical figure 8’s and slaloms, but if you are doing track days, I would suggest adjusting the camber only to around -2.5-3* and leaving caster neutral to keep the front end predicable for high speed cornering
Ya, I usually do about 5-6 trackdays a year, but the bulk of my miles are daily driving and rough back roads/canyon driving. I've been running -3 on my ground control camber plates with my KWs but hoping to reduce that to -2.5 or even less with the additional caster.
 

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The Ohlins manual has some recommended settings but I'm curious as to what current owners are setting their dampers to for DD/street, twisty roads and track.

So far, I've played around with settings for my daily commute and have settled on 16 clicks F/R. Will start playing around with the settings for the twistys once I get my alignment done and track settings after that on my trackday in a couple of weeks.

Would love to hear your settings and what sort of roads they are for.
 

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How'd your Ohlins set-up pan out?

Ironically, I'm now cross shopping Ohlins between moto, family SUV Volvo XC60-T6 R Design and FoRS...with discretionary funds for one platform...XC60 is most needy, and costly.😶.

Might have to pinch my sisters set, lol (irony, is a *****).
 

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How'd your Ohlins set-up pan out?

Ironically, I'm now cross shopping Ohlins between moto, family SUV Volvo XC60-T6 R Design and FoRS...with discretionary funds for one platform...XC60 is most needy, and costly.😶.

Might have to pinch my sisters set, lol (irony, is a *).
Not sure if you've seen my last post, but very much liking it.


Though call haha. I've had ohlins on both my SV650 and Monster and they were incredible there (and much cheaper than for a car lol).

Defintely a good upgrade for the type of driving the RS does, specially if you take it to the track. Not sure about the XC60, is it the polestar version? Eitherway, that's a pretty ridiculous price as far as I can tell on my quick search.
 

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Ohlin just have a great reputation, I recall when the LanEvo was still in production that this one of the most sought-after setup.
 

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The Ohlins manual has some recommended settings but I'm curious as to what current owners are setting their dampers to for DD/street, twisty roads and track.

So far, I've played around with settings for my daily commute and have settled on 16 clicks F/R.
I'm at 18 clicks F/R. I find it to compress slow enough to make it "comfortable". Rebound is still nice, with a single slightly quick up, done.

I live in SF, drive 280 often between SF and 380. There are some nice mid-sweeper undulations that I'll take at 80-90mph and the suspension handles it confidently.
 

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I'm at 18 clicks F/R. I find it to compress slow enough to make it "comfortable". Rebound is still nice, with a single slightly quick up, done.

I live in SF, drive 280 often between SF and 380. There are some nice mid-sweeper undulations that I'll take at 80-90mph and the suspension handles it confidently.
Out of curiosity, what size tires are you running? I've found that I could run a click or two stiffer when on my 17's vs 18's.
 

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This is off topic, but does anyone know if I can buy inserts for stock body to use with ground control plates and coil over springs? Can’t find anything and don’t wanna risk using konis for focus ST


16 Ford Focus RS Grey
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Ohlin just have a great reputation
Maybe they just stuck their name on some whilelabelled product made by someone else, like KW? Their spec looks suspiciously similar, 70N springs, the apparent extended length etc. These are not motorsport dampers for sure.
 

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Maybe they just stuck their name on some whilelabelled product made by someone else, like KW? Their spec looks suspiciously similar, 70N springs, the apparent extended length etc. These are not motorsport dampers for sure.

IIRC they are now own by Fox Racing.
 

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Maybe they just stuck their name on some whilelabelled product made by someone else, like KW? Their spec looks suspiciously similar, 70N springs, the apparent extended length etc. These are not motorsport dampers for sure.
Any reputable companies that know what their doing with suspensions should land on pretty similar specs. Not identical, but similar is reasonable.

Secondly, why would a reputable company like Öhlins re-brand a KW product? I have experience with KW and they are definitely not even close to the best.
 

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Secondly, why would a reputable company like Öhlins re-brand a KW product? I have experience with KW and they are definitely not even close to the best.
But by George, between them and Bilstein, they have been the most consistent and well researched and demonstrated a willingness to assist the car community in a wide range of performance applications. Many pundits consider that criteria to be judging “the best”.
 

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Yes, KW are everywhere and are great pieces. I'm more just wondering what info axel has that leads him to believe Öhlins rebrands anything.
 

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The spring rates are optimal at a specific level across multiple brands.
What differs is pretty much the way the shock works DFV vs KW Twin Valve.
My KW Clubsports are :

F 80N/mm +10 N/mm
R: 60 N/mm

When you buy the Ohlins, you do not get springs. You can choose the recommended ones or simply something else.
With KW you need to purchase them separately or talk to your seller to mix them with different springs.
 

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I have no specific info. I know Ohlins motorsport products and the road & track range looks and feels very different.

Have a look at their range for mountain bikes to motorcycles to the actual motorsport range and you will see a level of craftsmanship and quality that is not reflected on the road range.

The road range looks and feels like all the other aftermarket brands, they aren’t bigger, or longer travel, or anything in fact. They look mass-produced, that’s why I asked if they could be produced by someone else.

Apparently they use the DeCarbon principle which puts them in the same bucket as the Bilstein, which is good.

I won’t comment much about the spring rates except that doubling the OE rate was common in the 1980’s. Harder springs = less grip so the industry evolved in another direction since then.
 

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Yes, KW are everywhere and are great pieces. I'm more just wondering what info axel has that leads him to believe Öhlins rebrands anything.
I’m also not sure about them rebranding, but honestly this is the third performance chassis I’ve owned where there was a lot of forum fanfare when Öhlins decided to join the party much much later in the car’s development.

For comparison, in my experience, KW tends to join early through ST Suspension and Bilstein a bit later, only joining early through H&R which regularly utilise Bilstein dampers paired with their own springs + mounts. I’ve owned all three setups - Bilstein B16 PSS9 two way adjustable, KW V3 three way adjustable (currently installed in the RS) and Öhlins two ways. By far the Öhlins were inferior in manufacturing quality and ride control - IMHO - cost to performance ratio.

I feel Öhlins has been playing catch-up to Bilstein and KW for a long time. I also recognise they don’t have the same R&D resources or as much access to the Nurburgring and the community that goes with it to give themselves maximum on-road credibility. It wouldn’t surprise me to learn they cut a few corners to catch up to the other two when it comes to spreading themselves across multiple newer type chassis. That for me is the real reason they are priced so high for what they are and how they actually perform. They rest much more on their branding - the others have mega $ OEM alliances and therefore have much more to lose.
 

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Does KW still use plastic adjusters with the little set screw? I've had KW in the past and I always disliked that. I've also had one KW blow prematurely, that was a real hassle. I've not had that experience with Bilstein or Öhlins.

My KW were stainless tho, which I def liked a lot.
 

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Does KW still use plastic adjusters with the little set screw? I've had KW in the past and I always disliked that. I've also had one KW blow prematurely, that was a real hassle. I've not had that experience with Bilstein or Öhlins.

My KW were stainless tho, which I def liked a lot.
Yeah KW still use the Allen key screw lock on the spring seat and it works perfectly fine. The only issues I’ve ever heard with is when people over tighten it and it clearly says in large letters within the documentation not to. It’s just supposed to pinch the thread. Rule of thumb is never over tighten any part of your suspension, not even the top hat bolts, it’s a system.
The adjusters aren’t plastic but made of KW’s proprietary mix of something else (like plastic). It feels kinda furry. It’s top notch quality IMHO.
I’ve heard of the odd damper blow with KW but I’ve also heard they’re pretty good about replacing them - within reason.
The Bilstein’s are bullet proof. So incredibly beefy and well made but really firm. Bilstein coilovers are no compromise firm. Their PSS9/10 dampening adjusters do both rebound and compression with a single dial - like the KW V2 and Öhlins. Just a shame they don’t do them for the Mk3 RS and only the Mk2. The KW V3 wins for adjustability, you can dial them in to be rock hard or feel like butter and anything in between.
 

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Bump.
Sorry for the silly question, been going around and through all the topics now about coilovers. Was thinking about/pretty much decided KW DDC coilovers for the plug and play nature then read they probably drop too much (30mm from stock). Then saw there were Litchfield versions that were 20mm drop but was too late and they stopped making them.

Recently started reading all the Ohlins threads (again) and seeing a couple of good things, being they can be adjusted to only 15mm drop, and whilst they don’t have the dual mode in car switching they have easy to reach adjuster knobs on the outside. Also the wide(ish) range of adjustment seems to smooth out the ride on normal roads a bit but can also go full racecar stiff if I wanted.

BUT - all the places listing them for sale online (and Ohlins themselves) say they need the cancellation kit to stop codes being thrown. I THINK I read somewhere that it’s only an issue if you try to turn on Track mode or use the button on the indicator to turn on the stiffer suspension mode - is that true? Or have I just dreamt it up haha…
If I just stay in Sport driving mode it’ll be fine?
Also if that’s the case, I assume then nothing is plugged into the connector/cable where the damping cancellation kit would go - how would I plug that up safely? Just a crap load of electrical tape or something to stop the actual connector being exposed?

thanks in advance.
 
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