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BUT - all the places listing them for sale online (and Ohlins themselves) say they need the cancellation kit to stop codes being thrown. I THINK I read somewhere that it’s only an issue if you try to turn on Track mode or use the button on the indicator to turn on the stiffer suspension mode - is that true? Or have I just dreamt it up haha…
Yes, the system does a self check when you activate the dampers via Track mode or stalk. It's not really an issue though. Don't use the stalk to manually turn on (obviously), and use the stalk to turn the dampers off as soon as you're in Track mode and it won't check.

If I just stay in Sport driving mode it’ll be fine?
Of course, but no need to stop using Track mode.

Also if that’s the case, I assume then nothing is plugged into the connector/cable where the damping cancellation kit would go - how would I plug that up safely? Just a crap load of electrical tape or something to stop the actual connector being exposed?

thanks in advance.
The rears are inside the hatch and should be fine left unplugged. The fronts you can keep unplugged and just tape them up with automotive fabric tape. It will be much cleaner and last much longer than electrical tape.
 

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The rears are inside the hatch and should be fine left unplugged. The fronts you can keep unplugged and just tape them up with automotive fabric tape. It will be much cleaner and last much longer than electrical tape.
Ah yeah, good ol’ auto tape. Thanks heaps for the reply and info.
I never actually new what that plastic bit in the rear boot area was for… it’s like thoserear Boot light positions were specifically for them lol
 

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I would spend the money on the cancellation kit so that you can still use the other drive modes. The sport, track, and drift modes have mappings that affect more than just the suspension settings - throttle, rear drive bias, etc. Wouldn't you still want to use them?

Öhlins has been wonderful for me. I just had my set rebuilt by Brenner.
 

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You can still use different modes without the cancellation kit. Just make sure when you switch over to track mode that you cancel the hard damper mode from the end of the stalk within a few seconds.

Or you could create a custom 5th mode on forscan and this way you don't have to do anything.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 

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I would spend the money on the cancellation kit so that you can still use the other drive modes. The sport, track, and drift modes have mappings that affect more than just the suspension settings - throttle, rear drive bias, etc. Wouldn't you still want to use them?
The cancellation kit is more a "nice to have" than a must have. As @fbaltona mentioned, you can simply hit the stalk button to bypass this issue. The drive modes are a lot less sophisticated than you think. When in normal, sport or drift, the suspension just stays in the "soft" mode, so no need to worry about hitting the stalk button. Only time you need to is when switching to track mode.

Öhlins has been wonderful for me. I just had my set rebuilt by Brenner.
Very interested in what you thought of the rebuilding service. I've been thinking about it for a while now since I'm nearing the service interval, but it's such a hassle have to swap suspension and getting an alignment, etc. I was thinking of taking it to a local-ish shop (Performance Shock in Sonoma raceway) that way I can just pick-up/drop-off and not have to worry about shipping.
 

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Yeah I figured with the manual button for the traction, plus an exhaust valve controller I’ve got enough control to never need to actually use the pre defined track mode. I mean 400USD is a lot for convenience factor.

those running the Ohlins, how easy is it to adjust the front dampening? Do you need to jack up the front/side to get your arm under to adjust the knob?
 

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those running the Ohlins, how easy is it to adjust the front dampening? Do you need to jack up the front/side to get your arm under to adjust the knob?
Pretty easy, no need to jack up the car at all, you just need to turn the wheel from lock to lock.

Depending on how big your forearms are, there should be enough space between the inside of the tire and the front bumper to snake your arm thru to reach under the knuckle and get to the adjustment knobs. Just be warned, you will get your arms (and maybe your knees) dirty, so don't go adjusting with slacks and a nice long sleeve shirt on lol

I adjust mine pretty regularly. I have a setting for daily driving, canyon and track, both for my 17" and 18" wheels. When I go for a canyon run, I just leave it in my daily driver setting until I get to the canyons, pull over and pop the trunk, adjust the rears, turn the front wheels and adjust the fronts and I'm good to go!
 

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Pretty easy, no need to jack up the car at all, you just need to turn the wheel from lock to lock.

Depending on how big your forearms are, there should be enough space between the inside of the tire and the front bumper to snake your arm thru to reach under the knuckle and get to the adjustment knobs. Just be warned, you will get your arms (and maybe your knees) dirty, so don't go adjusting with slacks and a nice long sleeve shirt on lol

I adjust mine pretty regularly. I have a setting for daily driving, canyon and track, both for my 17" and 18" wheels. When I go for a canyon run, I just leave it in my daily driver setting until I get to the canyons, pull over and pop the trunk, adjust the rears, turn the front wheels and adjust the fronts and I'm good to go!
yeah I have small thin forearms :)
The getting dirty part doesn’t worry me, anytime I do stuff on the car I just wear my ratty gardening clothes. I don’t plan to be adjusting them during a drive, probably would just have it set for the day.

cheers for the info.
 

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yeah I have small thin forearms :)
The getting dirty part doesn’t worry me, anytime I do stuff on the car I just wear my ratty gardening clothes. I don’t plan to be adjusting them during a drive, probably would just have it set for the day.

cheers for the info.
Haha ya, I guess it stuck with me since one time I had forgotten to readjust mine before I had to give some clients a ride, so I had to pull over to soften them up and got $hit all over my nice shirt and slacks
 

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You can still use different modes without the cancellation kit. Just make sure when you switch over to track mode that you cancel the hard damper mode from the end of the stalk within a few seconds.

Or you could create a custom 5th mode on forscan and this way you don't have to do anything.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
+1 for the 5th custom drive mode using FORScan. I have it enabled on mine even though I'm running KW DDCs. I'll be swapping on my Clubsports soon, so I'm not worried about any cancellation kits because I can just have the custom mode set to leave the dampers alone.
 
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The cancellation kit is more a "nice to have" than a must have. As @fbaltona mentioned, you can simply hit the stalk button to bypass this issue. The drive modes are a lot less sophisticated than you think. When in normal, sport or drift, the suspension just stays in the "soft" mode, so no need to worry about hitting the stalk button. Only time you need to is when switching to track mode.



Very interested in what you thought of the rebuilding service. I've been thinking about it for a while now since I'm nearing the service interval, but it's such a hassle have to swap suspension and getting an alignment, etc. I was thinking of taking it to a local-ish shop (Performance Shock in Sonoma raceway) that way I can just pick-up/drop-off and not have to worry about shipping.
From what I understand, not anyone can rebuild Öhlins. Doug Brenner has been authorized to rebuild Öhlins for many decades and also provides before and after dyno reports. He's been trusted in the industry for a long time, so I never considered anything else. (Check his videos on YouTube, pretty informative)

Shipping was $30.
Rebuild service was about $900.


Removal and reinstall is always a hassle of course - but I got it down to about an hour at this point. I would always rather do it myself than have a shop touch it, you know how that is. Luckily I have a garage, but I understand not everyone has the luxury.

I performed my rebuild at exactly the recommended interval.

Doug reported to me that he found lots of gravel on both driver side units - this was a result of a very recent off I had at Thunderhill. :)

The shocks did not actually feel at all like they needed rebuilding, to my butt, honestly. Not sure if the gravel would have caused long-term damage if left inside so I was happy to have them rebuilt, but not sure they needed them from a "feeling" standpoint. The shocks didn't lose a thing after 30k.
 

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From what I understand, not anyone can rebuild Öhlins. Doug Brenner has been authorized to rebuild Öhlins for many decades and also provides before and after dyno reports. He's been trusted in the industry for a long time, so I never considered anything else. (Check his videos on YouTube, pretty informative)

Shipping was $30.
Rebuild service was about $900.


Removal and reinstall is always a hassle of course - but I got it down to about an hour at this point. I would always rather do it myself than have a shop touch it, you know how that is. Luckily I have a garage, but I understand not everyone has the luxury.

I performed my rebuild at exactly the recommended interval.

Doug reported to me that he found lots of gravel on both driver side units - this was a result of a very recent off I had at Thunderhill. :)

The shocks did not actually feel at all like they needed rebuilding, to my butt, honestly. Not sure if the gravel would have caused long-term damage if left inside so I was happy to have them rebuilt, but not sure they needed them from a "feeling" standpoint. The shocks didn't lose a thing after 30k.
Thanks for the very detailed response! Yes, I am very familiar with "The Ohlins Guy" and his youtube channel, tons of good info there. He seems like and old school, no BS sort of guy I love working with. The guys at Performance Shock are all Ohlins certified. I got the recommendation from a few friends who have gotten their track bike ohlins shocks rebuilt there, so I'm sure they are more than capable.

You mentioned that you got before and after dynos. How did they look? I'm just curious since you mentioned that your shocks did not feel like they needed rebuilding. I'm on the same boat. Mine feel great and have been doing mostly street duty, so I'm not in much of a rush for a rebuild.
 

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I told myself I deserved a good Xmas pressie this year, so I ordered a set. To ship to Australia. From the US.
Amazingly there was stock (not back ordered) and UPS says it will arrive on Xmas eve :D

Thanks everyone who chimed in to reply to my questions. Much appreciated.
 

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Anyone not using these with camber plates? I picked up a set locally for 2k which included the camber plates. I'm not tracking the car so I'll probably sell the camber plates and use the OE top mount but I haven't seen anyone install them with the OE mount yet.
 

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Anyone not using these with camber plates? I picked up a set locally for 2k which included the camber plates. I'm not tracking the car so I'll probably sell the camber plates and use the OE top mount but I haven't seen anyone install them with the OE mount yet.
I won't be using camber plates with mine. My car is a daily/weekend drive car so I don't need the extra adjustment.
 

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I won't be using camber plates with mine. My car is a daily/weekend drive car so I don't need the extra adjustment.
Cool. I ordered new top mounts since they were pretty cheap at about $35 a piece so I don't have to bother disassembling the front struts. I'll reuse the rears.

G1FZ3A197A
 

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UPS delivered the new Öhlins Coilovers I ordered (the customs fees for Australia are ridiculous btw) and lo and behold.... I was sent a set of Mustang coils instead 🤦‍♂️

I ordered from Cobb and they are usually very helpful in terms of support so I've emailed them and awaiting a response. From what I can see, they just put an order directly to Ohlins and ship directly to me so this is gonna be fun seeing who/what/how it got messed up, but I'll be damned if I have to pay shipping/customs fees again to get the right set delivered....
 

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UPS delivered the new Öhlins Coilovers I ordered (the customs fees for Australia are ridiculous btw) and lo and behold.... I was sent a set of Mustang coils instead 🤦‍♂️

I ordered from Cobb and they are usually very helpful in terms of support so I've emailed them and awaiting a response. From what I can see, they just put an order directly to Ohlins and ship directly to me so this is gonna be fun seeing who/what/how it got messed up, but I'll be damned if I have to pay shipping/customs fees again to get the right set delivered....
Good luck with that......FFS.
 

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Does anyone who's installed the voshlag camber plates have a picture of a few of the pieces of the kit? I think I'm missing this 'Top pin spacer' to be used with the OE mount and I can't find a source for it online or a clear picture of what it looks like. These aren't used with the camber plates so in theory they should be handy.

Also if you can confirm that the M12 nut and washer is a standard M12 nut and washer that'd be awesome.

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