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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installed a mountune m380 kit on my late '17 focusRS! :) (notes + 25 images)

preface: sorry x-post, put it in an images thread by accident lol. 4am+ posting...never good
preface2: i have new HG from factory and let the car reach 10,000kms tracking coolant level & all vitals, no issues, before kit went on this week.
sorry no posts in a while, flat out with life.

fitted mountune m380 kit recently! amazing and love it!
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- better sound (intake, turbo whistle)
- i didnt need or use the SSC, no whistle at idle etc, i like all the noises i hear
- i didnt remove the sounded deadening under bonnet, as FLIR images said not to IMO
- massively impressed, my RS would drop down to 1.2, 1.1 bar of boost on cold nights (3 degrees) and sometimes peak 1.4 on warmer days. I hoped it was torque targets. On the m380 tune it now hits a solid 1.75bar - 1.85 bar all time, no matter the temps, no matter the gear (except 1st). its also much much more torquey and much faster to 100. who knows, maybe my stock recirc vale was leaking before, now this thing is an animal.
- nice quiet recirc valve just a little whoosh. spring is way firmer than stock and has smoothed some part throttle out (or maybe that's the map).
- throaty intake sound now
- more pops/bangs in sport and track, but quietened a bit in normal, great setup
- i find the consistent and much higher (for me) boost levels to be a big improvement, as is the very very obvious jump in torque and top end. its a lot faster between corners for me and i kept getting caught 20-30km/h too fast at first on known routes
- here's some pics of my fitment, i followed the only youtube tutorial i could find haha.
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Here's the pics/quick tips list:
- youtube the m380 fitment tutorial, turn the music off (hah) and pause it at each spot to do the same. it works well apart from not showing filter or nightmare recirc vale location.
- intake pipes easy to fit, ofc filter easy to fit
- clamps on upper intake got in way of engine cover upon refit, had to rotate them down a bit, watch for this
- update your accessport manager on the computer before also upgrading the AP's firmware upon first connection, before flashing your car
- flash the car while battery is full
- only real thing to watch for is fitting the recirc vale. a) its a bastard spot, and b) the O rings dont really want to sit down unless you put something on them to grease them in there or something. dont let them fall out like they want to while fitting it back.
- by bastard spot i mean take the front-right wheel off (driver's wheel in australia) and its through a hole in the suspension and guard. deep in there. with torx screws holding it in. fun times. but make sure you do it i think.

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stock engine bay


stock car (lol obv still looks this way ;p)


box (note this is an fpm375 kit but i upgraded to m380 tune via a code supplied as fpm375 flash wouldnt apply to my late-2017 build's ECU). same hardware though, some pics show different colour piping but i prefer this nice black :)


mountune mtune (aka cobb AP V3) with FMR firmware applying latest M380 maps:


you'll see weird dash msgs while flashing




pipe comparison, m380 piping much fatter in one spot and seems to have less overall bend. note all pipes fit great


quick check MAP/sensor looks OK post filter, it does












rotated air filter so 'seam' not in the main intake path technically speaking, anal level 100/100


mountune replacement recirc valve, weird hey? very tight spring when test-pushing piston in/out. careful to make sure those seals stay in during the bastard install haha :)


sigh yes this is where the recirc valve must go. too easy wasnt it.




this is what it looks like after lots of swearing or if you're really lucky only a little bit. stock recirc valve removed. oh i removed the floor too as the stock valve just popped out and fell onto it sigh.


this is the standard recirc valve (retrieved from floor fall-location lol). very soft spring compared to mountune valve.


mountune recirc valve in-place fitted. kit finished install! this was a bastard to get to and install, tempting to skip for later but i suspect well worth it.


mountune mtune mounted near OBD2 port (for aus cars). but i remove the controller at all times, too obvious. just leave the mount there via 2 sided taps. would be handy for some perf figure runs or data logging in that location :)


FINISHED ENGINE BAY hurray


finished car parked with evo8 i found in a car park. unsurprisingly my car looks the same outside as before (and equally awesome i may add, though biased hahaha)
 

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Nice!

I miss my IX now.

I got the FP recirc valve (same exact as MOuntune, other than the color and branding.

I still have my AP from my X, I'll get it flashed at Cobb when I go to Carson, then stop by at Mountune (they are a miles apart) and get the intake and tune!

I just done my exhaust with FP cat-back. Hope it made it feel more responsive after the tune.
 
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Congrats on the mods. I bet she feels much better than stock now. Do you have access to a FLIR camera? I would love to see some underhood pictures for comparison.

The pictures don't show a jack stand anywhere. I see (2) jacks, but they can fail. You never know where Dr. Murphy is hiding down the street. (Murphy's Law)
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Congrats on the mods. I bet she feels much better than stock now. Do you have access to a FLIR camera? I would love to see some underhood pictures for comparison.

The pictures don't show a jack stand anywhere. I see (2) jacks, but they can fail. You never know where Dr. Murphy is hiding down the street. (Murphy's Law)
oh yeah, i should apologise to all for the irresponsible dual-jacking thing - I have a bigger main jack I wedge the wheels on when its up and then a medium jack that gets positioned with a couple lbs weight on it on the inner sub point, and a sizeable spare wheel goes halfway up the car under the rails a few cm before I go under it. HOWEVER, I know all too well this doesnt count much and to be honest with my hands in that little hole doing the recirc valve im thinking yeah...itd chop my arm off at the wrists... plus it sprinkled rain threatening for 2 mins there and the wind got up. i will be investing in stands. ive been doing this too many years, luck will run out.

FLIR camera actually someone on here has already done this! i got the images from them. they posted in a thread on here im sure you can find or google can with the site:focusrs.org tag in the google search field. it did show the bonnet and somewhat near the intake area was significantly extra hot with the underbonnet panel removed, not enough to be dangerous perhaps but enough for longer-term paint concern on the bonnet. same for intake temps, they were up when the sealing effect on the upper of the airbox was removed. best to use an open-ended filter (like K&N E-9289 and in mountune kit for example) if you just want some extra noise and intake surface area. but each to their own, the FLIR results didn't dissuade or persuade everyone so there it is.

Intake and tune on this car were an unexpectedly big gain. this effect may be somehow localised to aus cars in this climate on this (EDM) ECU with the m380 config but it really is a massive gain , woohoo :) love love love having consistent boost levels finally too. the stock tune kinda annoyed me with that varying boost levels stuff depending on air temp. anytime air temp over 14, i used to get decent overboost. under 14, worst down at 4-5 C, id be getting much less boost. car was all fine etc just the tune was weird with that and a few other times it felt super super fuel-sensitive (in that some service stations i seemed to get a better octane control number than others leading to better power). now with a tune it feels completely solved. always same boost , always same power , and its always a lot of both. i also long ago picked the 'best' fuel supplier lol so this will be fine even if the map was more edgy. what a beast :) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice!

I miss my IX now.

I got the FP recirc valve (same exact as MOuntune, other than the color and branding.

I still have my AP from my X, I'll get it flashed at Cobb when I go to Carson, then stop by at Mountune (they are a miles apart) and get the intake and tune!

I just done my exhaust with FP cat-back. Hope it made it feel more responsive after the tune.
I too had an IX with about 245kw atw. the RS feels a lot like it, just somehow even pointier at the front, even more torquey and now finally has that same extreme accel feeling. took some boost to get it though....good old 4G63s+twin scrolls :) i think my IX was putting down about 3.9 to 100 though on brutal launches so id need to get another g-tech and see how its optimistic times were on the RS now it has some mods. Probably the IX would lose 4 out of 5 times and win 1, it took quite a few runs well over what I'd guess the RS's time (4.4ish) before id dip the 3s vs the RS launching via control all day on better semis. Corners and brakes, the RS is measurably on another planet, but I guess you could extreme-build an IX like always to compete.
 

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Thanks for posting mate … I'm looking at doing this, and you've inspired me!

A Q; what's with the early/late ECU's and the 375/380 tunes?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks for posting mate … I'm looking at doing this, and you've inspired me!

A Q; what's with the early/late ECU's and the 375/380 tunes?
Firstly, now all FPM375 kits include the mTune unit which is a cobb AP V3 with Mountune revision firmware, as do M380 units, but its a different firmware with different vehicle support.

EDM (I guess that's euro domestic market), North american and Aus market car ECUs for some reason Id guess early '17 or thereabouts stopped accepting the mountune FPM375 tune. if the accessport's firmware identifies as FMP-001 it won't flash the ECU (it'll say vehicle not supported). If the firmware identifies as FMR-001 it will flash. The FMP-001 seems to be the AP firmware included in the FPM375 kit. The M380 kits all seem to get the FMR-001.

Anyway Mountune can cross-grade the firmware by sending you a license file, as they're separate branches and won't/can't just upgrade to each other for example. However in theory that would need payment of the 'difference' between the two kits.

Some people like myself got caught out ordering the FPM375 kit (which has identical hardware to the M380 kit except the $80-or so SSC I ordered separately), and found it wouldn't apply to their car. which seemed unfair as i supplied VIN number, rego information and all sorts of other stuff for the collaboration with ford 'approach' I guess :) however I'd expect accurate pre-ID of the ECU and the appropriate AP firmware therefore.

In this case I got the M380 firmware crossgrade so a free 5hp/20nm or something but i suspect they'll stop doing this and start preloading 375 maps onto an FMR-001 so people dont hit this issue. or they'll make you pay for an M380 for starters if you ID as this car.

hope this helps and not more confusing lol.

FMP-001 = FPM375 AP firmware = wont flash the markets mentioned above after a ford ECU revision sometime
FMR-001 = M380 AP firmware = will flash those

worth prob just ordering the m380 to save any pain and get the SSC in the same mail package :) or try for the free upgrade via FPM375 haha...

ps you'll love the gains and accurate boost targeting!!
 

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Awesome work! I had this kit originally and was impressed with the difference!
 

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Sweet ride !
1,85 bar is quite high.
Is this the standard map or a more aggressive set up ?

Enjoy it and one of these days I pull the trigger and tune mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
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Fun! Just be glad you didn't "need" to do the SSC. If you thought doing the recirc valve was a pain, you should try getting that circlip out in that same working "hole" lol, I'm now a proud owner of 3 different circlip tools haha. This is the slippery slope, have fun with the rest of the mods!
 

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Nice! I wish that you had posted this about 2 weeks ago, before I was putting my kit on the car. Mountune sent zero instructions with the M380 kit, but the only not obvious part was pulling the metal insert out of the grommet on the intake portion before moving that part over.

Even with just the parts on the car (no tune yet) the car feels awesome, way more predictable now. No more Dr. Jeckle / Mr. Hyde -- will I get 150hp or 350hp when I floor it?

To anyone thinking about installing the kit, you can get to the SSC and recirc valve from underneath, especially with the car on ramps. The hardest part was the circlip, the clip kept falling out of the tools that I had. For installing the recirc valve from under the car, I used this Wiha socket wrench, about the length of your index finger and screwdriver bits recess into it and stick out about of their length out of it:
https://www.wihatools.com/1-4-ratchet-and-bits-35-piece-set

Super useful in tight spaces like doing the job from under the car, and the short length makes sure that you can't get too much torque on the screws. Also used to install my ZL1 mudguards without taking the back wheels off.

Great writeup!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sweet ride !
1,85 bar is quite high.
Is this the standard map or a more aggressive set up ?

Enjoy it and one of these days I pull the trigger and tune mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
yes its a solid 1.75bar peaking to 1.85 at the very top
before it was a solid 1.45-1.5 peaking to 1.65 at the top, but it would drop on cold nights at least 0.2bar lower, now no difference!

and yeah its pretty high. i found it was pretty high stock too though, so not a massive increase in boost.
its the 'standard' m380 tune yep. i think its probably on the boundary of what you can get away with on a stock car. it has a '+ exhaust' map that tunes some more pop/bang and probably controls boost a touch as more flow might raise it more
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Nice! I wish that you had posted this about 2 weeks ago, before I was putting my kit on the car. Mountune sent zero instructions with the M380 kit, but the only not obvious part was pulling the metal insert out of the grommet on the intake portion before moving that part over.

Even with just the parts on the car (no tune yet) the car feels awesome, way more predictable now. No more Dr. Jeckle / Mr. Hyde -- will I get 150hp or 350hp when I floor it?

To anyone thinking about installing the kit, you can get to the SSC and recirc valve from underneath, especially with the car on ramps. The hardest part was the circlip, the clip kept falling out of the tools that I had. For installing the recirc valve from under the car, I used this Wiha socket wrench, about the length of your index finger and screwdriver bits recess into it and stick out about of their length out of it:
https://www.wihatools.com/1-4-ratchet-and-bits-35-piece-set

Super useful in tight spaces like doing the job from under the car, and the short length makes sure that you can't get too much torque on the screws. Also used to install my ZL1 mudguards without taking the back wheels off.

Great writeup!
haha nice one phil. yeah i was the same - where are my instructions what the?? im thinking great...this is going to be interesting.
i ordered the SSC separately as its the only hardware not in the 375 kit , since i upgraded to the 380 kit. but yeah i actually only get a bit of higher intake noise on cold starts for a brief 20secs and its nowhere near as bad as the youtube vids i saw. mines pretty much like stock? maybe got lucky and ford updated something ;p :)

ps omg that sounds like such an ordeal (the SSC). I'll save that for another day...thanks for the info on doing it, have saved the text. :)

and YES i completely agree - the random nature of how much power I'd get was the main driver behind doing this and the flash/tune. i got so annoyed how it would be really fast one moment then quite limp the next, and it was really irritating seeing the lower boost on cold nights when i shouldve been enjoying the typical 'turbo cold night ' bonus effect hehe ;) Its a lot better now, the combo seemed to have totally solved my boost and consistency issues. now i just have to stop swearing every time i give it the beans... ;P awesome! :)
 
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