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Does anyone have any information about breaking in the RS? Is it ready to go out of the box? Is there a special way to get the most out of it if there is a break in period?


ElSnapitan
 

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There is some discussion about how to break in a new motor and seat the piston rings properly.
The basic theory is that you about 20 miles to seat the piston rings. If they don't seat, the you will have blow by (compressed gasses passing the piston) and pressurizing the crank case. This will cause the PVC and breather to put oil mist into the intake pipes and that will effectively reduce the fuels octane and causes a big build-up of stuff on the intake valves.
To seat the piston rings, you need the rings to have pressure against the cylinder wall. The spring of the ring is not enough. In fact, the compression gasses go behind the top ring and push it out against the cylinder wall. So, how do you get more compression gasses to push the piston ring out?
Floor it!
First warm the car up completely by driving it, not idling it. When up to temp, give it some full throttle in second or third gear in the lower RPM Range. Do this a couple of times. After each time, let the car cool down (you won't notice any thing different) so whatever parts that may have gotten hot can cool down.
Now repeat this going higher and higher in the RPM range. It's not necessary to go to redline. 5k rpm is enough.
 
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There is some discussion about how to break in a new motor and seat the piston rings properly.
The basic theory is that you about 20 miles to seat the piston rings. If they don't seat, the you will have blow by (compressed gasses passing the piston) and pressurizing the crank case. This will cause the PVC and breather to put oil mist into the intake pipes and that will effectively reduce the fuels octane and causes a big build-up of stuff on the intake valves.
To seat the piston rings, you need the rings to have pressure against the cylinder wall. The spring of the ring is not enough. In fact, the compression gasses go behind the top ring and push it out against the cylinder wall. So, how do you get more compression gasses to push the piston ring out?
Floor it!
First warm the car up completely by driving it, not idling it. When up to temp, give it some full throttle in second or third gear in the lower RPM Range. Do this a couple of times. After each time, let the car cool down (you won't notice any thing different) so whatever parts that may have gotten hot can cool down.
Now repeat this going higher and higher in the RPM range. It's not necessary to go to redline. 5k rpm is enough.
Not to question your method as I have heard of this from others already, but where did you get this break in method from?
 

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I had my car for 189 miles, most of the rpm is varying between 1-3k with some bursts up to 4k here and there usually in 2nd and 3rd.. Should I be pushing it a little bit harder? going up to 5k rather once the car is warmed up? Is there certain gears I should focus more on for breaking in, I feel like itd be hard to push 5th and 6th gear with higher rpms without getting some attention from the PoPo.

Thanks!
 

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Your break in is complete.
If you seated the piston rings properly, then the charge pipes should be dry, no oil.
If you have oil, then you have "blow-by" past the rings. If there is enough of it, the crank case is pressurized and the oil vapor from the crank case goes out the PVC valve into the intake.
My ST had terrible amounts of oil in the intake track. When the new engine was installed, the mechanic let it idle for an hour. I was not able to seat the rings.
 

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Your break in is complete.
If you seated the piston rings properly, then the charge pipes should be dry, no oil.
If you have oil, then you have "blow-by" past the rings. If there is enough of it, the crank case is pressurized and the oil vapor from the crank case goes out the PVC valve into the intake.
My ST had terrible amounts of oil in the intake track. When the new engine was installed, the mechanic let it idle for an hour. I was not able to seat the rings.
I thought for a full break in you should do this for the first 1,000 miles then oil change at 1000?
 

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@Therion,,,thanks so much!,,,after reading so many ways to break in the car,,,, I'm feeling really good about doing it this way plus I really enjoy this engineering guy's other videos very informative I've learned a lot,,, so glad he made this one!!,,:)
 

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I agree with the vid. That is how I did mine. Jason Fenske the owner of Engineering Explained should do vids on the RS. NB RS some, Jason?:rollseyes:
 

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@Therion,,,thanks so much!,,,after reading so many ways to break in the car,,,, I'm feeling really good about doing it this way plus I really enjoy this engineering guy's other videos very informative I've learned a lot,,, so glad he made this one!!,,:)
No problem :) I'm also a great fan of his vids, i knew I saw this vid somewhere. The RS will be my 5th new car I have to break in, and I always use this method without problems.
 

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I have been told by a decade experienced mechanic that breaking an engine in is about pressure not load, so compression breaking with a warm (full running temp, coolant and oil) engine is a safe and effective way to do so.

Anyone have comments on this point?

PS. I will not be taking my RS above 4k within the first 1200km lol I will bloody well stick a chock under the accelerator pedal so I can only achieve 50% of WOT lol
 
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wish i saw this earlier! Have not readlined but pretty much close. Sporadic flooring from time to time to feel that booooost lol
 

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When you do your first oil change, open one of the charge pipes under the engine. If it's dry, you have seated your rings well. If it's wet, then you have blow-by because you have not seated your piston rings
 
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