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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

After a year of ownership, it's that time...
I have a 2017 NB RS2 with sunroof; stock except for a DSC controller. I plan on the following mods (the list I not in any particular order)
  • Mountune V2 exhaust
  • Mountune Intercooler and piping
  • DSC dampers
  • Quaife
  • Tune (proabaly Livernois)
  • Drift stick
Anyway, I'm not a big fan (read "I don't like") of intake noise, so I'm not planning on intake mods.
My questions are...
  1. Will an intake make that much of a difference? (I don't mind leaving a few hp on the table.)
  2. Should I add a catch can?
  3. Should I get the air recirc valve, too?
My car is exclusively a DD. I just want it a little peppier.

Thoughts?
 

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Get a catless downpipe, and dyno tune will get you some nice gains!!!

I just had my RS tuned by National Speed with a Scorpion downpipe installed.

It's a beast!!! I went from 282 horsepower and 328 lb-ft of torque at the wheel to 348 horsepower and 420 lb-ft of torque after the tune!!!

The RS is much louder with the catless downpipe.




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With the mountune turbo kit, new intercooler, and a dyno tune, I’ll get 450 hp to the wheel without any engine modifications.


I'm having that done early next year!!!


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He already has a cat-back. Downpipe would not really add anything compared to the cost. Just more noise.

OP, the stock intake is really well designed and again, for the cost, it would not be beneficial. You could replace the filter with something like an AEM dry flow which would open up a few hp with a tune.

Other than that you really have everything you need for a solid DD with some extra umph.
 

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You and I must be cut from the same cloth brother. I like wearing knee pucks down as well. 👍
I'm a little over 1 year in on a 17 NB RS2. At 3 months, the DSC controller; 4, the Tractive dampeners; 5, AWE touring cat back; 9, Custom Wheels, and over the last three weeks, Livernois base tune with the above mods, last weekend I mounted an ETS FMIC w/ charge pipes, 1 step colder plugs, Radium baffle plate and Dual catch cans, Ford performance recirc valve, 160deg thermostat, and an AEM dry element air filter. The car basically sounds dead stock ( except for the exhaust which adds some volume with no drone) but pulls with authority. Get the recirc valve, it's a simple mod that offers peace of mind. Besides, when you pull out the OEM parts, you'll be surprised at how these parts functioned at all...
 

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With the mountune turbo kit, new intercooler, and a dyno tune, I’ll get 450 hp to the wheel without any engine modifications.


I'm having that done early next year!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've had an ETS GTX turbo kit for 9 months just sitting on a shelf. Personally, I wouldn't reccomend doing a turbo upgrade without supporting engine mods...
 

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I have a 2017 NB RS2 with sunroof; stock except for a DSC controller. I plan on the following mods (the list I not in any particular order)
  • Mountune V2 exhaust
  • Mountune Intercooler and piping
  • DSC dampers
  • Quaife
  • Tune (proabaly Livernois)
  • Drift stick
Anyway, I'm not a big fan (read "I don't like") of intake noise, so I'm not planning on intake mods.
My questions are...
  1. Will an intake make that much of a difference? (I don't mind leaving a few hp on the table.)
  2. Should I add a catch can?
  3. Should I get the air recirc valve, too?
My car is exclusively a DD. I just want it a little peppier.
For a DD with "umph" I would get the tune first, then the DSC dampers for "daily comfort". If you live in a warm area or really beat on the car, I would also get the intercooler and piping along with the tune.

If you want more noise, get the exhaust, but this doesn't have to happen with the tune, so you can get it whenever. I would probably skip the Quaife diff since it doesn't seem to have as drastic of an affect on handling from what I've read.

Unless you live where it snows or have an area to "play" I'd skip the drift stick. Living in sunny CA and grippy tires, I pretty much have to go at ridiculous speeds to get any fun out of mine.

He already has a cat-back. Downpipe would not really add anything compared to the cost. Just more noise.

OP, the stock intake is really well designed and again, for the cost, it would not be beneficial. You could replace the filter with something like an AEM dry flow which would open up a few hp with a tune.

Other than that you really have everything you need for a solid DD with some extra umph.
^Mostly agreed, but I would skip the air filter, specifically since you get way more intake noise that the power benefit (since the OP metioned they don't like intake noise)
 

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I got an ETS intake just to get more induction sound out of the intake system. Like others have said only a filter might be best in your case since you dont like induction noises. Although I dont remember if filter only already added more noise vs stock filter.

Recirculation valve I believe is recommended for any application with higher boost than stock. I had the mountune valve on my ST with the FP tune. I dont plan on tuning the RS until the extended warranty is over but I changed the valve just based on knowledge of how the stock diaphragm type valve feels cheap and not as durable as the piston type valves like mountune or FP valve (and all the other reknowned brands). Moutune of FP recirc valve will not add much induction noise, I can hear air being vented back in the system only when I roll my windows down and that's with the ETS intake. I dont know if I would hear it with the stock intake.

I recently switched over to the FP valve (had Mountune for a while) just because I thought it would not be questionned as much at the dealer if anything happened to the engine, with the FP valve having the Ford logo stamped on it instead of Moutune. So I have a Mountune bypass valve listed in the sales section of the forum if you're interested in saving a few bucks. Not the best deal for US buyers but still not bad if you need/want one:

 

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Recirc valve + close-ended filter (for example K&N 2993 vs 9289) + smooth intake elbow (Mountune 2536-IH) + tune will get you started. If you're going to do the performance mods in stages, make sure that you buy a lifetime tune so you don't have to pay for revisions (like Mountune does after 45 days).

Some quick comments: Like others have said, intercooler + piping will help if you live in a hot climate. The drift stick is a gimmick, but is a conversation piece for sure (going full Euro interior + FP short throw shifter is a better value). Tractive + DSC is fantastic but expensive, keep an eye on their website and facebook for sales around black Friday. The LSD isn't worth the cost on a DD on its own, but I'll likely put one in when the transmission comes out for a clutch replacement (whenever that is).

Happy modding!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow. Thanks for all the replies, folks. I live in Maryland, where it gets hot and humid all summer.

Yeah, the Drift Stick is a gimmick (I played with one at the RSAA), but I figure that they won't be in stock forever.
I'm thinking about the Quaife because I drive in the snow, and I've read on this forum that it isn't necessary for stock hp, but helps when you bump it up a bit.

Sounds like I'm on the right track. I'll keep you all posted with my progress. I plan on having a different-feeling RS by the time the snow melts in the spring.
 

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I've had an ETS GTX turbo kit for 9 months just sitting on a shelf. Personally, I wouldn't reccomend doing a turbo upgrade without supporting engine mods...
I hear ya!!! I trust the guys at National Speed and they said no internal mods needed unless I want more than 450 whp.

They could have easily told me they need to mod the engine for the sake of making money.

I'll holla after the turbo/intercooler upgrade. I also have colder plugs and mountune lowering springs, which significantly reduces the annoying bouncing.

Thanks!!!


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I put in a Wavetrac on my RS (I momentarily thought about a Drexler but then I came to my senses). I have a slightly different take on the LSD equation.

Yes, it will help manage the power up front when you go past the RDU power limit. However, for me mainly it's to change the driving dynamics of the car. The RS behaves a little unpredictably, and the LSD brings it more in line with a traditional setup. I lose a bit of the rotation but I don't have to alter my driving instincts.

I can't tell you how it affects snow driving but I can't imagine it would hurt. Brake vectoring doesn't seem as helpful there.
 
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