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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently installed a new turbo. When I started the project I searched for an install video but did not find one. So I decided to make one. Please excuse the shaking in the beginning of Part 1. It ends after a few scenes.

EDIT:
The vimeo links I originally posted don't seem to work for some people. They work for me using Firefox. I just have to allow the site to run Adobe Flash Player. @MorningZ posted some alternative links below if you don't see the videos in this post.

Turbo Install Part 1 - Covers removing the turbo

Turbo Install Part 2 - Covers re-assembling everything that was removed in Part 1.


Backstory on the Reason for the Install

I had my turbo replaced by a dealership after a rag got sucked into it. I asked them to move my Turbosmart wastegate actuator and Mountune recirculation valve to the new turbo. They moved the WGA but did not move the recirculation valve (unknown to me). A couple track days later my turbo failed while on the banked turns at Daytona Speedway. It started making a sound similar to brakes squealing. I assumed the turbo had seized. I guessed there was a momentary lack of lubrication due to the oil level while on the steep banked turns. So I replaced the turbo. I took the "broken" turbo to a master tech named Jeff who works at Mullinax Ford in Apopka Florida. He took it apart and let me watch. We found a perfectly good turbo. After investigating further, Jeff determined the problem was likely a leaking WGA. He said it would make a noise similar to pulling the opening of a balloon tight. That's a very good description of the noise it was making (see the beginning of Part 1).

Then it hit me. My Mountune recirculation valve was not moved to my new turbo. I'm tuned and making a lot of boost so it makes sense that the stock recirculation valve would fail. Especially after multiple track days. So that was an expensive lesson learned. But I gained some great experience doing the turbo swap. This event inspired me to enroll in an online automotive repair school. So I look at it as a catalyst to good things in the future.
 

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Looks like the site is having issues embedding Vimeo videos, let's see if the site messes with these alternative links at all

Part 1: http://bit.ly/2MOFD5I

Part 2: http://bit.ly/2lT9PBe

Nice extra touch putting all the Ford part #'s!

And yeah, the downpipe is all my fault! lol . I'm buying one after my trip





 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Looks like the site is having issues embedding Vimeo videos, let's see if the site messes with these alternative links at all

Part 1: http://bit.ly/2MOFD5I

Part 2: http://bit.ly/2lT9PBe

Nice extra touch putting all the Ford part #'s!

And yeah, the downpipe is all my fault! lol . I'm buying one after my trip
Thanks for adding those links!

I'd go with the Scorpion downpipe. The fitment of the Depo Racing one isn't great. It took some manhandling to get it installed.
 

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Thanks for all the hard work and effort by making videos of the removal + installation of the turbo.

Didn’t you consider upgrading to a bigger bolt on turbo while you were at it? (Just asking)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Oh and i also see some people blocks off the oem recirculating valve (blank off plate) and then installs an aftermarket on the boost pipes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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A recent CAR FIX episode on Velocity was about a Borla Turbo and exhaust upgrade kit on a mustang with the 2.3 ecoboost engine. The upgrade comes with a Cobb Accessport and a tune for 91 Octane. This tune produced 380hp/410tq @ 24psi on Borla R&D dyno, however, results will vary depending on vehicle specific conditions.
Considering how many have already had problems while just cruising around town (blown head gaskets, melted pistons, amputated connecting rods, etc.) I wonder if Borla is going to offer a similar upgrade kit for the RS. When they took the mustang out for a run, I was waiting for something to come apart (it didn’t).
 

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@SurfCfl,

This is an outstanding couple of videos. Thank you for taking the time to document all your hard work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the hard work and effort by making videos of the removal + installation of the turbo.

Didn’t you consider upgrading to a bigger bolt on turbo while you were at it? (Just asking)
From what I've read you can take the stock internals to their safe limit with the stock turbo. Many knowledgeable people on this forum agree that you should upgrade to forged internals if you bolt on a big turbo. I plan on buying a new block next year and building it out with forged internals and performance cam/valve springs. That will get a big turbo bolted to it. I'm going to practice by helping my brother rebuild his 351 Cleveland in his 1970 Cougar.
 

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Thanks so much for posting these, I have been rewatching religiously as I have been slowly taking off the stock turbo and upgrading to the ETS kit the past few days.

How critical is it to replace the gaskets and parts that you listed or is it a replacement on an as needed basis like the one bolt that came out in the video?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks so much for posting these, I have been rewatching religiously as I have been slowly taking off the stock turbo and upgrading to the ETS kit the past few days.

How critical is it to replace the gaskets and parts that you listed or is it a replacement on an as needed basis like the one bolt that came out in the video?

Thanks again!
I'm glad it helped! It's the video that started my youtube channel. I made it because I couldn't find a video on how to do it. I have a brake pad video coming out soon because all the other videos on our pads are too long IMO. I make my videos as short as possible.

The gaskets and replacement oil lines are critical. They're not that expensive anyway. It would suck to have to strip all that stuff off a 2nd time just for a $5 - $20 part.
 

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Here's a link to the youtube version.

Subscribed!

Since I bought the ETS kit used I was trying to figure out which gaskets or parts I would need to replace. I am trying to avoid pulling the driveshaft/axle if I can and the guy I purchased the kit from said he got it out by dropping the subframe so its worth a shot. Worst case I just use the same approach as you with the subframe down and have so much room to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Subscribed!
Thanks!

Since I bought the ETS kit used I was trying to figure out which gaskets or parts I would need to replace. I am trying to avoid pulling the driveshaft/axle if I can and the guy I purchased the kit from said he got it out by dropping the subframe so its worth a shot. Worst case I just use the same approach as you with the subframe down and have so much room to work.
Yeah, that's a good method. I wasn't sure my jack stands were high enough to get enough room when I dropped the subframe. So I elected to do the factory procedure because I was sure it would work.
 

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Thanks!



Yeah, that's a good method. I wasn't sure my jack stands were high enough to get enough room when I dropped the subframe. So I elected to do the factory procedure because I was sure it would work.
Can confirm that the stock turbo can be removed by dropping the sub frame it actually wasn't too bad to do on jack stands and no axle pulling or driveshaft removal! And got my front sway bar installed at the same time ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Can confirm that the stock turbo can be removed by dropping the sub frame it actually wasn't too bad to do on jack stands and no axle pulling or driveshaft removal! And got my front sway bar installed at the same time ;)
Good to know! I'll use that method the next time.
 

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Is their a directions or how to for the PTE turbo install? What extra parts do you recommend picking up for install?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Is their a directions or how to for the PTE turbo install? What extra parts do you recommend picking up for install?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
it's identical, the turbo is just offset slightly, but everything is the same.

for the extra parts: the brass nuts holding on the turbo, oil feed line, oil feed line filter, oil return line, new gaskets (blue orings) for the coolant lines into the turbo. Those are what I would start with, and anything else you break or strip along the way.
 
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