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How To: Radar Detector / Dash Camera Install

19914 Views 25 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  lottadot
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I recently finished up installing some add-ons / accessories to my car and wanted to share some of the tricks and methods I used to accomplish my installs. In this post ill go over my dash camera and radar detector. You can view my Laser Jammer install here: https://www.focusrs.org/forum/27-focus-rs-guides/59769-how-laser-jammer-install.html

* To not clutter this post I refrained from including a handful of pictures. Here is the full album: https://imgur.com/a/FKoSU *


- Dashcam: Blackvue DR650S-2CH w/ PMP -

I went with this dashcam for many reasons. Like the 2 channel recording front and back, parking mode with crash detection, Alerting me if someone bumped my car, etc. Here is some test footage of different weather, times of day, front and rear recording:

(The tint on my rear hatch is pretty dark and effects the rear cameras recording ability )

The Blackvue has two wires: Power and rear video+power. I run them both in the same path for the first part. My windshield suffers from this useless piece in front of my rear view mirror. So as you can see I mounted the Backvue in front of it. I wanted the better middle view forward and don't mind the way it looks.



Ran the wire under the plastic cover up to the head liner



Here is the path I took through the headliner. With the radar detector wire (install steps below) I push all three wires in up above the headliner. To get them to stay I fold some small Velcro on itself about 3 times in small pieces and stuff in there holding the wires in. Once I get to the end I continue behind the plastic cover on the B-Pillar. The wires hide in the weather stripping for a portion of it until a crack becomes available between the dash and the frame, then I hide the wires in there till I get under the passenger side dash.



Under the glove compartment I have a few things going on. The Blackvue is plugged into the Power Magic Pro. This device switches the dash camera between constant power and switched power. It monitors the voltage of my battery and the way I have it set currently is to keep my dash camera on when the car is turned off for 24 hours or till my car batteries voltage drops to 12v, witch ever comes first. This way I can keep recording when the car is off. The dash camera goes into a parking mode where is only records when it detects motions or it detects the car move (like if someone bumps my car with their car).



I have two add-a-fuses. One for switched power in fuse87 and one for constant power in fuse65. The constant power circuit is only going to the Power Magic Pro and the switched circuit going the Power Magic Pro, Radar Detector and Laser Jammers.



Next we have the rear cam. I have it middle in the rear window. Wire tucked under the plastic cover and kept there with one of the wire holders that came with the Blackvue. Kept a wire loop for when I open and close the hatch.



Through the interior I pull off all a lot plastic pieces. There are three screws circled in yellow.



The screw with the little cover up high on the pillar has to be popped out from the back side. You can get to it by removing the weather stripping.



I found another wire bundle running behind and under the interior and used some electrical tape to attach the wires to it again. Going all the way to the front



With this rear wire run the dash camera is good to go.


- Radar Detector: Valentine One w/ concealed display, bluetooth, brownout booster -

I chose this radar detector for a number of reasons. IMO if you do 5 or more over the speed limit they are a must have if you want to avoid speeding tickets. If you are considering buying one I recommended checking out some of Vortex's articles on his site Buy a Radar Detector » Vortex Radar or youtube channel to decide whats right for you. There are a lot of great options for many different use cases. Also, without the proper knowledge and buying the right one for you, you may find that they are annoying. So do your research!

I have my valentine one mounted from my visor using the included visor clip running in dark mode (Because of the concealed display below). I get great detection up there and its not visible from outside like windshield mounted radar detectors are sometimes. I ran the cable for it in the headliner and down the b-pillar with the dash cam cable. (See above description with pictures)



Of the three addons I have for my V1 is the bluetooth adapter allowing me to connect my phone and the Brownout Booster ( Its a must have if you use the engine stop while idling feature otherwise the V1 will restart every time the idling feature kicks in.) The BOB sits in-line to the cable that goes up to the V1. To use both the bluetooth dongle and the concealed display at the same time I picked up one of these RJ11 splitters, the V1 supports this.



This is the Concealed Display for my Valentine One that sits on my dash in view while I'm driving. I also have an alert LED for my Laser Jammers and am currently testing out this little hood I made out of black construction paper. This is to keep anyone from the outside seeing the display from the top or sides and keeping the LED only visible to me (when it goes off its very bright at night).



This is the wire run I used over to the passenger side. Pulling up weather stripping on the driver door, finding a spot to cut across under the driver dash where it would not interfere with the petals, through the middle dash, I found a small cavity I was able to fish my wires through to the other side.





With all of that plugged in the radar detector is good to go.

Here is a video going over everything above:




- Links -

Album of all the photos I took: https://imgur.com/a/FKoSU

Links to the products used:
Blackvue DR650S-2CH: http://a.co/dnBw4VW
Power Magic Pro: http://a.co/iIMxvMx
Valentine Research: Radar and Laser Detectors | Valentine One | Radar Detectors

- Update 9/6/18 -

Since installing and running this setup, I have changed form the Valentine 1 to the Uniden R3. In short it has better range and filtering. To learn more about radar detectors and which is right for you checkout https://www.rdforum.org/
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Hey, I'm interested in doing the exact same setup. Are you still happy with your choices for dashcam and radar detector? Thanks for the great tutorial.


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Hey, I'm interested in doing the exact same setup. Are you still happy with your choices for dashcam and radar detector? Thanks for the great tutorial.


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The Dashcam? Absolutely, the quality is great and its easy to configure/pull footage. In fact the quality is so good I wish I could find a bigger high endurance SD card so I can record footage longer, currently only have 64GB. The only downside in my setup is the rear window tint is dark enough that it diminishes video quality.

The radar detector really depends. I've been a Valentine one guy for some time now and its right for me. I would urge you to do some research ( rdforum.org/forum.php ) into features and figure out what you want to get out of it, last I herd Uniden was taking the lead in the industry. The last thing you want to do is get one that you find annoying or lacking features and not using it.
Thank you Rob!


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Did you ground the black magic pro? If so where did you do that? I just got my dash cam in today.

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Great post & tutorial. A+ and a great contribution to the forum.

Blackvue has been in the top 2 selection now for me but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I am literally murphy's law when it comes to plastic tabs/clips and interior work. I will break Every Single One... anyone in the bay area with the right skills looking to assist in an install this winter? :)


@OP - Outside of the $399 (for the 64gb BV) and ~$25 for the PMP, were there any additional costs you ran into?
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Great post & tutorial. A+ and a great contribution to the forum.

Blackvue has been in the top 2 selection now for me but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I am literally murphy's law when it comes to plastic tabs/clips and interior work. I will break Every Single One... anyone in the bay area with the right skills looking to assist in an install this winter? :)


@OP - Outside of the $399 (for the 64gb BV) and ~$25 for the PMP, were there any additional costs you ran into?

You can do the install without removing any panels, except the center plastic piece on the tail gate (If you are installing a rear camera). I've installed an escort 360 and thinkview F770.

The only other item you need is a 1-2 of those fuse taps so you can get constant/ACC 12v connections without having to splice any wires.
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I really appreciated this write-up when I installed my BlackVue DR750S 2Ch this weekend. I deviated from the process by pulling my rear channel wire to the hatch unde the headliner with an electricians wire pulled. In the end I only had to remove the A-pillar garnish molding and the one panel on the lift gate to get a super-clean looking hard-wired installation. This is a really nice addition to any car, and the install is really pretty easy.

Many thanks to the OP for such a great write-up!


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How did you remove the centre piece of tailgate trim.
Tia
How did you remove the centre piece of tailgate trim.
Tia
There are 4 metal pins that are attached to that center piece that push into the trunk. It takes a bit of force to pop it out. I used a long screw driver.

One thing to note, those metal clips go on the plastic piece. If any of them get stuck in the hatch, you need to pop them out and attach them back to the center piece before reinstalling. I didn't realize then when I tried to reinstall and ended up popping the clip into the hatch.... Took like 30 minutes to fish that back out, and would have rattled all around if I hadn't. Don't make my same mistake ;)
There are 4 metal pins that are attached to that center piece that push into the trunk. It takes a bit of force to pop it out. I used a long screw driver.

One thing to note, those metal clips go on the plastic piece. If any of them get stuck in the hatch, you need to pop them out and attach them back to the center piece before reinstalling. I didn't realize then when I tried to reinstall and ended up popping the clip into the hatch.... Took like 30 minutes to fish that back out, and would have rattled all around if I hadn't. Don't make my same mistake ;)
Good for you! I spent 45min and still couldn't get that clip out and I gave up...:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
Good for you! I spent 45min and still couldn't get that clip out and I gave up...:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
I got lucky, it fell just to the right of one of the bigger holes so I was able to fish it would with some flexible wire.
Thank you for the guide, used it this weekend to install my front Aukey cam with PMP. Took less than an hour, works perfect. Next I'll hardwire in my radar detector.
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While most everyone has gone up through the headliner...has anyone looked at a clean way of going down through the center speaker? Also, this is a long shot...but...when I had my RX8 we tapped a switched wire that came into the overhead light and sunroof panel. Has anyone looked to see if there is an extra switched harness wire up there already?
While most everyone has gone up through the headliner...has anyone looked at a clean way of going down through the center speaker? Also, this is a long shot...but...when I had my RX8 we tapped a switched wire that came into the overhead light and sunroof panel. Has anyone looked to see if there is an extra switched harness wire up there already?
The only thing up there you could tap for power would be for the mirror I believe. I don't think that provides enough power for the camera according to other users that tried it and had issues. Plus is ridiculously easy to cleanly route it down the pillar to the fuse box, so why make extra work? I think it took me 5 minutes to route that wire, and I didn't removed a single panel. In fact the only panel I had to remove wiring both front/rear camers was the center panel in the trunk so I could use the existing wiring paths between the car and the trunk.
While most everyone has gone up through the headliner...has anyone looked at a clean way of going down through the center speaker? Also, this is a long shot...but...when I had my RX8 we tapped a switched wire that came into the overhead light and sunroof panel. Has anyone looked to see if there is an extra switched harness wire up there already?
I've seen somewhere on here somebody was able to wire their cam up to their moonroof switch. According to them the moonroof is just a 12v lead. As long as you splice in before the switch it should work just fine. Y'know... assuming you have a moonroof.
Actually...I would not want to have a moonroof in that situation. While it is possible to run the moonroof and a radar detector on the same circuit, I would prefer they be separate. Alas...I have a moonroof so I won't be going that way. Any other random 12v switched wire up there for like Homelink or something?
I've seen somewhere on here somebody was able to wire their cam up to their moonroof switch. According to them the moonroof is just a 12v lead. As long as you splice in before the switch it should work just fine. Y'know... assuming you have a moonroof.
If you can tap into the actual power wire for the moonroof motor, that would work. If the switch just triggers a relay, it's most likely a very thin wire, and would not provide enough power (Amps) to power the camera.
I have two add-a-fuses. One for switched power in fuse87 and one for constant power in fuse65. The constant power circuit is only going to the Power Magic Pro and the switched circuit going the Power Magic Pro, Radar Detector and Laser Jammers.

I've been watching install videos of dashcams and the Add-a-Circuit connector. Most if not all videos has advisde to check what side of the fuse is "in" and "out". Have you confirmed that the orientation of the add-a-circuit is installed correctly? Checking which side is the "in/out" side makes sense because if the voltage isn't actually going through the fuse then it isn't doing it's job.
I've been watching install videos of dashcams and the Add-a-Circuit connector. Most if not all videos has advisde to check what side of the fuse is "in" and "out". Have you confirmed that the orientation of the add-a-circuit is installed correctly? Checking which side is the "in/out" side makes sense because if the voltage isn't actually going through the fuse then it isn't doing it's job.
There is no 'in / out'. The fuse just connects the 2 posts to complete the circuit, and blows (breaks) the connection if the current is too high.
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