Hey, I'm interested in doing the exact same setup. Are you still happy with your choices for dashcam and radar detector? Thanks for the great tutorial.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hey, I'm interested in doing the exact same setup. Are you still happy with your choices for dashcam and radar detector? Thanks for the great tutorial.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great post & tutorial. A+ and a great contribution to the forum.
Blackvue has been in the top 2 selection now for me but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I am literally murphy's law when it comes to plastic tabs/clips and interior work. I will break Every Single One... anyone in the bay area with the right skills looking to assist in an install this winter?
@OP - Outside of the $399 (for the 64gb BV) and ~$25 for the PMP, were there any additional costs you ran into?
There are 4 metal pins that are attached to that center piece that push into the trunk. It takes a bit of force to pop it out. I used a long screw driver.How did you remove the centre piece of tailgate trim.
Tia
Good for you! I spent 45min and still couldn't get that clip out and I gave up...:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:There are 4 metal pins that are attached to that center piece that push into the trunk. It takes a bit of force to pop it out. I used a long screw driver.
One thing to note, those metal clips go on the plastic piece. If any of them get stuck in the hatch, you need to pop them out and attach them back to the center piece before reinstalling. I didn't realize then when I tried to reinstall and ended up popping the clip into the hatch.... Took like 30 minutes to fish that back out, and would have rattled all around if I hadn't. Don't make my same mistake![]()
I got lucky, it fell just to the right of one of the bigger holes so I was able to fish it would with some flexible wire.Good for you! I spent 45min and still couldn't get that clip out and I gave up...:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
The only thing up there you could tap for power would be for the mirror I believe. I don't think that provides enough power for the camera according to other users that tried it and had issues. Plus is ridiculously easy to cleanly route it down the pillar to the fuse box, so why make extra work? I think it took me 5 minutes to route that wire, and I didn't removed a single panel. In fact the only panel I had to remove wiring both front/rear camers was the center panel in the trunk so I could use the existing wiring paths between the car and the trunk.While most everyone has gone up through the headliner...has anyone looked at a clean way of going down through the center speaker? Also, this is a long shot...but...when I had my RX8 we tapped a switched wire that came into the overhead light and sunroof panel. Has anyone looked to see if there is an extra switched harness wire up there already?
I've seen somewhere on here somebody was able to wire their cam up to their moonroof switch. According to them the moonroof is just a 12v lead. As long as you splice in before the switch it should work just fine. Y'know... assuming you have a moonroof.While most everyone has gone up through the headliner...has anyone looked at a clean way of going down through the center speaker? Also, this is a long shot...but...when I had my RX8 we tapped a switched wire that came into the overhead light and sunroof panel. Has anyone looked to see if there is an extra switched harness wire up there already?
If you can tap into the actual power wire for the moonroof motor, that would work. If the switch just triggers a relay, it's most likely a very thin wire, and would not provide enough power (Amps) to power the camera.I've seen somewhere on here somebody was able to wire their cam up to their moonroof switch. According to them the moonroof is just a 12v lead. As long as you splice in before the switch it should work just fine. Y'know... assuming you have a moonroof.
I've been watching install videos of dashcams and the Add-a-Circuit connector. Most if not all videos has advisde to check what side of the fuse is "in" and "out". Have you confirmed that the orientation of the add-a-circuit is installed correctly? Checking which side is the "in/out" side makes sense because if the voltage isn't actually going through the fuse then it isn't doing it's job.I have two add-a-fuses. One for switched power in fuse87 and one for constant power in fuse65. The constant power circuit is only going to the Power Magic Pro and the switched circuit going the Power Magic Pro, Radar Detector and Laser Jammers.
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There is no 'in / out'. The fuse just connects the 2 posts to complete the circuit, and blows (breaks) the connection if the current is too high.I've been watching install videos of dashcams and the Add-a-Circuit connector. Most if not all videos has advisde to check what side of the fuse is "in" and "out". Have you confirmed that the orientation of the add-a-circuit is installed correctly? Checking which side is the "in/out" side makes sense because if the voltage isn't actually going through the fuse then it isn't doing it's job.