Ford Focus RS Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I installed the MCS coilover system from Vorshlag a couple weeks ago. Now that the springs have settled and I've finished making ride height adjustments, I posted a video on how to do the install. I was able to get 3 degrees of negative camber with this system. The Vorshlag camber plates have a caster adjustment too. I tested out adding some positive caster but decided on staying with the stock caster setting. The reason for that is explained in the video below.


Required Parts:
Vorshlag MCS Coilover System
Front Knuckle Upper Bolt (2) - W703214-S442
Rear Shock Lower Bolt (2) - W715830-S442
Rear Lower Control Arm Bolt (2) - W716336-S442
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,095 Posts
Great video! Although not shown in the video users must verify the front strut nuts for the Vorshlag caster/camber plates are tightened. Mine were shipped finger loose. I added blue loctite and snugged them down. MCS does not recommend using an impact on the strut/shock nuts. They recommend using the bump method with a wrench. YMMV. A simple solution for removing and installing the front struts is to use a flat plate and the pinch bolt installed backwards. The pinch bolt pushes the knuckle open so the struts can be removed/installed. Don't go too far or you risk damage to the knuckle.

Are you getting any squeaking from the rear MCS shocks? I had to use a hole saw on my rear strut towers to relieve the interference between the top shock (jam) nuts and the strut tower lip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Great video! Although not shown in the video users must verify the front strut nuts for the Vorshlag caster/camber plates are tightened. Mine were shipped finger loose. I added blue loctite and snugged them down. MCS does not recommend using an impact on the strut/shock nuts. They recommend using the bump method with a wrench. YMMV. A simple solution for removing and installing the front struts is to use a flat plate and the pinch bolt installed backwards. The pinch bolt pushes the knuckle open so the struts can be removed/installed. Don't go too far or you risk damage to the knuckle.

Are you getting any squeaking from the rear MCS shocks? I had to use a hole saw on my rear strut towers to relieve the interference between the top shock (jam) nuts and the strut tower lip.
One of the techs at Vorshlag told me how to tighten the nuts on the rear shocks. I did get squeaking in the left rear occasionally. I thought it was the mounting bracket you reuse. So I swapped them to see if the squeaking moved to the right side. But ever since I swapped them I haven't heard any squeaking. But that's good to know if it starts again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Awesome vid, love seeing the MCS stuff. Not sure if I missed it in the video but what spring setup did you go with (GT/GTS)?
Thanks, I got the GT springs. A Vorshlag tech helped me pick the springs. He said the biggest consideration when picking springs is the type of tire you're using. He said the GTS springs should only be used with sticky tires like race slicks. And GT springs should be used if you have street legal tires. Even though I have RE-71Rs he still suggested I go with the GT springs.

The GT springs were a good choice. I ran a pretty stiff setup at Sebring last weekend and the cornering was excellent. With the stock suspension I would get oscillations and skipping in some of the corners. Now it's very compliant through those corners and I can take them at considerably faster speeds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
Thanks, I got the GT springs. A Vorshlag tech helped me pick the springs. He said the biggest consideration when picking springs is the type of tire you're using. He said the GTS springs should only be used with sticky tires like race slicks. And GT springs should be used if you have street legal tires. Even though I have RE-71Rs he still suggested I go with the GT springs.

The GT springs were a good choice. I ran a pretty stiff setup at Sebring last weekend and the cornering was excellent. With the stock suspension I would get oscillations and skipping in some of the corners. Now it's very compliant through those corners and I can take them at considerably faster speeds.
Thanks @SurfCfl, that's exactly what I was wanting to know. If I go MCS, I will probably go the GT spring route also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
I either missed it or you didn't mention whether you used factory endings or adj aftmkt units. Have you seen the MCS strut tower brace and if so was it an option?

What are your current ride heights? Rake?

Have you had a chance to dial in the damping settings.....if so what are you running?

What front sway bar are really you using?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
@SurfCfl, how's this setup been on the street? Hopefully with these high end shocks, the springs are not too harsh/jarring on the road.
You can set it up to be a much softer ride than the stock or Mountune springs and stock dampers. But you run the risk of bottoming out the shocks if you go too soft. I've set the ride height to as low as the front coilovers can go (about the same drop as the Mountune sport springs (around an inch)). I run a pretty stiff setup on the street so I don't have to worry about the tires hitting the wheel wells. I also like to practice my track driving whenever the opportunity presents itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I either missed it or you didn't mention whether you used factory endings or adj aftmkt units. Have you seen the MCS strut tower brace and if so was it an option?

What are your current ride heights? Rake?

Have you had a chance to dial in the damping settings.....if so what are you running?

What front sway bar are really you using?
I have adjustable end links all the way around. I had them adjusted while the car was on a four post lift getting the alignment. The MCS coilovers max out at -3 degrees of camber BTW. That's with the stock caster setting. With the Vorshlag camber plates, you lose max negative camber as you add caster.

The ride height adjustments on the front coilovers go from one inch below stock to well above stock height. The rear springs are short so the rear can't go much higher than stock. But it can go very low. I have the fronts at their lowest setting which equals the Mountune sport springs (about an inch below stock height). And I've set the rear to match the height of the Mountune sport springs as well. So I've kept the factory rake.

I've done a lot of experimenting with the damping settings and I'm still experimenting. I bought this suspension setting for the track so I haven't spent much time trying to soften the ride. I have worked out a firm street setting and more firm track setting. My street setting is 11 out of 15 compression and 13 out of 19 rebound on the front and 10 compression/11 rebound on the rear. For track it's 12 compression and 15 rebound on the front and 11 compression and 13 rebound on the rear.

The front say bar is stock and I still have your Neuspeed rear sway bar set to the softer setting. This setup works real well for me with the new suspension. The car seems to instinctively rotate into the corners. It can be loose on corner exit. But if you have fast hands, you can keep it under control. And that makes performance driving very interesting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,205 Posts
I had 2 way w/canister Motons (name before MCS) on my previous car and swear by them. Most tunable and street/track setup I've ever owned.

I assume all your damping setting numbers are from full soft. It is amazing how well those dampers work , even with relatively high spring rates.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I had 2 way w/canister Motons (name before MCS) on my previous car and swear by them. Most tunable and street/track setup I've ever owned.

I assume all your damping setting numbers are from full soft. It is amazing how well those dampers work , even with relatively high spring rates.
Yeah, those numbers are from full soft. My two settings are similar to the stock settings (stiff and stiffer). The difference is how compliant the MCS system is. There is no more bouncing or skipping through corners. It stays planted all the way through which gives me so much more speed through the corners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
I have adjustable end links all the way around.

The front say bar is stock and I still have your Neuspeed rear sway bar set to the softer setting.
What/whose end links are you using? I have an AST setup ordered but still trying to decide on the other pieces. Going to probably stay stock sway bars but did you happen to run the MCS setup with both stock and Neuspeed bars to compare?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,079 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
What/whose end links are you using? I have an AST setup ordered but still trying to decide on the other pieces. Going to probably stay stock sway bars but did you happen to run the MCS setup with both stock and Neuspeed bars to compare?
I have Massive end links up front and White Line in the rear. I tried to replace the front end links with WL during the MCS install. But the studs on the WL end links were too long. I couldn't get them into in the bracket on the MCS coilovers. The WL end links are of much higher quality though. At some point in time I'm sure I'll remove the MCS coilovers for some reason. When I do, I plan on switching over to the WL end links.

The rear sway bar was one of my first mods. So I haven't run a stock one with the MCS setup. But with the MCS setup the car is slightly looser than it was with the stock shocks and Mountune sport springs.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top