[jefferysanders]

Ha! Wouldn't put it past Ford. Now I see why the stock screws won't work. Because they need to be thicker to be able to thread into the plastic.

Yes, I used coarse threads; that's what was on my donor mirror.

 

[Si2RS]

Yes, I used coarse threads; that's what was on my donor mirror.

And THIS is why I love this community! Thanks for all the insight (again haha)!

 

[SenderPiggins]

Ha! Wouldn't put it past Ford. Now I see why the stock screws won't work. Because they need to be thicker to be able to thread into the plastic.

I just went to AutoZone and bought the black automotive trim screws. I just made sure I got the ones with the bigger, flat head.

 

[Si2RS]

I just went to AutoZone and bought the black automotive trim screws. I just made sure I got the ones with the bigger, flat head.

https://www.autozone.com/screws-pins-and-clips/license-plate-screws/needa-parts-m6-3-1-81-x-16-license-plate-fasteners/551587_0_0

These ones, right?

 

[SenderPiggins]

https://www.autozone.com/screws-pins-and-clips/license-plate-screws/needa-parts-m6-3-1-81-x-16-license-plate-fasteners/551587_0_0

These ones, right?

Certainly looks correct. Maybe a little longer? I don't have the packaging anymore so I can't check, but I went into either Autozone or O'Reilly and picked it up off the display. There was only one with the wider head.

 

[Si2RS]

Certainly looks correct. Maybe a little longer? I don't have the packaging anymore so I can't check, but I went into either Autozone or O'Reilly and picked it up off the display. There was only one with the wider head.

Cool. I actually went with the one that @jefferysanders used when installing his (from Amazon):

I'm finally putting the mirrors together, and will be getting them PPF'd and ceramic coated this week. Then, I can finally install them. While putting them together, I noticed there is no tiny screw for the puddle light in the housing that came from European-parts. This is the hole I'm talking about:

@SenderPiggins , I believe you also got yours from European-parts..did yours come with this screw? Did you just not even bother with it? It's probably not necessary since the light already clips into the housing. Or did you find a tiny screw that fits that hole?

 

[JamoRS]

My car has those puddle lamps as standard.
I changed the globes to led to match the rest of the car, and never had to unscrew anything to change them....HTH.

 

[Si2RS]

My car has those puddle lamps as standard.
I changed the globes to led to match the rest of the car, and never had to unscrew anything to change them....HTH.

Interesting. In this video (skip to 1:30), he says there's a screw you need to remove and shows it (a T8):

Also, looking at the puddle lamps I got from Autobeam, there's a little plastic tab with a hole that lines up with that hole I pictured above.

 

[JamoRS]

You've refreshed my memory, watching that.
I just popped the globe holder out like he did to change the globe!
So I still didn't remove any screws to do that job😄😄 but you are correct in saying there is one in there to secure the lens👍

 

[SenderPiggins]

Cool. I actually went with the one that @jefferysanders used when installing his (from Amazon):
View attachment 347178
View attachment 347179
I'm finally putting the mirrors together, and will be getting them PPF'd and ceramic coated this week. Then, I can finally install them. While putting them together, I noticed there is no tiny screw for the puddle light in the housing that came from European-parts. This is the hole I'm talking about:
View attachment 347180
View attachment 347181
@SenderPiggins , I believe you also got yours from European-parts..did yours come with this screw? Did you just not even bother with it? It's probably not necessary since the light already clips into the housing. Or did you find a tiny screw that fits that hole?

Mine also did not have the screw, but I just went without. No issues so far.

 

[jefferysanders]

Interesting. In this video (skip to 1:30), he says there's a screw you need to remove and shows it (a T8):

Also, looking at the puddle lamps I got from Autobeam, there's a little plastic tab with a hole that lines up with that hole I pictured above.
View attachment 347184

yes there are two tiny screws, my donors had them. Should be something almost anyone has laying around.

 

[SenderPiggins]

For future reference, if anyone else goes down this road, the screws I used were M6.3 - 1.81 License Kit, Import, Needa? branded.

 

[Si2RS]

Okay! So I've finally had my mirrors successfully PPF'd and ceramic coated. It took a few back-and-forth trips due to "fingering" issues on the PPF... I'm planning on tackling this install this weekend. @jefferysanders, were you able to confirm the driver side pin connections, or would you like me to confirm? According to your OP, the connections should be as follows:

DS

Pin 6 C501B ----(BN-VT)----> P4 C521
Pin 11 C501B ----(GN-VT)----> P8 C521

PS

Pin 6 C652B ---- (BN-YE)----> P8 C626
Pin 11 C652B ----(BN)----> P4 C626

But according to @connoisseurr and @SenderPiggins, the driver side and passenger side should be the same pins:

DS

Pin 6 C501B ----(BN-VT)----> P8 C521
Pin 11 C501B ----(GN-VT)----> P4 C521

PS

Pin 6 C652B ---- (BN-YE)----> P8 C626
Pin 11 C652B ----(BN)----> P4 C626

I think I will initially wire it up with the driver side and passenger side identically. I'm assuming the dead giveaway that the pins are reversed is the mirror folding in by itself as soon as I connect the wires? Or would it happen after enabling in FORScan?

 

[connoisseurr]

I will recommend wiring the driver side like myself and @SenderPiggins, but I’m biased

When I did my install and noticed issues on the driver side, I pulled out my voltage tester and read each circuit. One of the pins was throwing constant voltage (puddle lights) when the door was open.

Not that there should be a difference, but am wondering if there was something different between mode years - perhaps different door modules?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[connoisseurr]

I'm assuming the dead giveaway that the pins are reversed is the mirror folding in by itself as soon as I connect the wires? Or would it happen after enabling in FORScan?

When I did my install, I had each mirror harness disconnected from its respective door module, did the Forscan mods, then did all the wiring. Upon connection of mirror harnesses to the door modules, is when I noticed wiring issue.

With the pin swap on driver side, everything worked great.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Si2RS]

I will recommend wiring the driver side like myself and @SenderPiggins, but I’m biased

When I did my install and noticed issues on the driver side, I pulled out my voltage tester and read each circuit. One of the pins was throwing constant voltage (puddle lights) when the door was open.

Not that there should be a difference, but am wondering if there was something different between mode years - perhaps different door modules?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Haha! Yeah, I was thinking of using my voltmeter once I insert the pins into the door module. Was this before or after you enabled in FORScan? Not sure if I should enable it in FORScan before physically starting the swap.

 

[Si2RS]

When I did my install, I had each mirror harness disconnected from its respective door module, did the Forscan mods, then did all the wiring. Upon connection of mirror harnesses to the door modules, is when I noticed wiring issue.

With the pin swap on driver side, everything worked great.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Cool! I'll enable it before starting then. Sounds like the way to test is with the door open, as that is when a signal should be going to the puddle lamp and not the folding mechanism. I'll use my voltmeter and report back once I wrap up the install.

If anybody else needs me to check anything out when I have the door panel off, just let me know!

 

[jefferysanders]

Sounds like you can do it either way, I didn't have a chance to check anything and won't for a bit, I am going to be gone from my car for the season very likely... if it doesn't throw codes, I don't see why it won't work either way; or like someone else suggested perhaps maybe it's the variation in modules and calibrations. I don't think I had to RE the puddle lamp portion, I found those pins from wiring diagrams for the ST.

The puddle lamp should be on while the door is open, It's a puddle lamp lol...to light up puddles...lawl

 

[Si2RS]

Alright, folks. I was able to successfully complete this project yesterday. Not without a few speed bumps, that's for sure... I will say that electrical work is definitely not my forte. I'd rather do a mechanical parts install a thousand times over before I have to re-pin a single connector. You'll see why shortly. Haha! Before I start I just want to give a HUGE THANK YOU to @jefferysanders for creating this thread, and contributors like @connoisseurr, @SenderPiggins, @rewind, etc. For without all of you, I would've never been able to muster up the confidence to take this on.

First, since I could not find ANY side-by-side comparison photos of the US vs. Euro mirrors anywhere on the interwebs, here are a few shots I took. I'm sure my boy @nicklulu will appreciate these:

Notice the mounting base for the Euro mirror is more angled than the US one, and the plug is rotated 90 degrees. Let me know if anybody wants more pictures, as I took a bunch of angles, but didn't want to blow up this post with comparison pics.

Second, I was able to confirm the driver side pin locations stated by @connoisseurr and @SenderPiggins are indeed correct:
DS
Pin 6 C501B ----(BN-VT)----> P8 C521
Pin 11 C501B ----(GN-VT)----> P4 C521

PS
Pin 6 C652B ---- (BN-YE)----> P8 C626
Pin 11 C652B ----(BN)----> P4 C626

So the pin locations were identical on both sides. Like @jefferysanders previously mentioned, not sure if this is due to model differences between 2016 vs. 2017/2018 (I have a 2017). I used my voltmeter, and also tested the pin locations before inserting said pins on the DS mirrors by using a temporary jumper wire to ensure I got the right ones so I didn't have to re-pin (I'll tell you why in a second). Here's a pic showing the wiring on the DS:

And "buttoned up" with mini zip ties:

Now, onto the passenger side... I actually did this side first. I thought it would be common sense once I got in there, but for the life of me, I could not get the two pins out of the housing to relocate them. At least not without breaking something. So I ended up breaking both of the little plastic retention clips on the housing itself in the original two pin locations. Fortunately, you don't need those two slots with the Euro mirrors, but I'll probably pick another one up in case I ever need to revert back to the US mirrors. ALSO, while I was able to successfully keep one of the pins intact, the second one didn't fare so well...

As you can see, it was beyond repair to say the least... So I cut bait:

And here was my solution:

I put a zip tie on both ends of that connection to keep it from flexing and putting stress on the solder joint. It's rock solid. Fortunately, I was able to measure perfectly so all the solder joints run along the straight portions of the loom. In case anybody was wondering, the length of the wiring I measured was about 15" for all 4 wires.

Overall, I'd call this project a success. Tested everything last night, and it all works perfectly! So my final question is... Does anybody know where I could find that pin connector housing that connects to the mirror? Like a part number? Or would I have to buy the whole wire loom? Is a trip to my local pick-a-part in my future? I obviously don't need it now, but I'd like to have one on hand in case I need to revert back to the US mirrors for some reason.

 

[nicklulu]

Great add-on this thread and the pics as stellar.

So the smaller side mirrors also help on less wind drag, hence more HP!