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A TON of great information here thanks to @jefferysanders and everyone here. After reading through this whole thread for a third time, I finally decided to pull the trigger on these, as I now feel I have enough confidence to do this install. I just have a few questions for some folks here before I get to the actual install. Obviously, everybody is welcome to chime in if they have any other helpful insights. :D
Got a fat bonus today I didn't expect, so I decided to go ahead and share the LOVE, please thank Mr. Tezza. from focusrsoc for all his help, I couldn't have done it without him!

A. Gather Needed tools and Needed Parts (part acquisition can be a pita, but persistence paid off for me):

Trim Tools + Waste Spare plastic Credit Card (or other card)
Torx bit set
Metric Sockets
Phillips Head

&

the parts below:

Wiring and Pins

OEM LHD-DS w/ Powerfold, Puddle Lights = BM51-17683-PH (in and out of stock on various sites)

OEM LHD-PS w/ Powerfold, Puddle Lights = BM51-17682-PH (in and out of stock on various sites)

Switch = F1ET-14132-CB (common on ebay) need trim for eu [member section of focusrsoc if you really want it or just drill a hole...]

Terminal EU2Z14474BA | NewAutoParts.com (untested, but should work...I got full harnesses for redundancy and testing, but that was very wasteful of $$$)


Whatever goodies you want to add to the mirrors - stylish puddles, sequential-side markers, tinted markers, carbon caps, etc.

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B. Remove Door panels -
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C. The needed pins on C652B and C501B are Pin 6 = Puddlelamps Pin 11= Powerfolding

DS

Pin 6 C501B ----(BN-VT)----> P4 C521
Pin 11 C501B ----(GN-VT)----> P8 C521

PS

Pin 6 C652B ---- (BN-YE)----> P8 C626
Pin 11 C652B ----(BN)----> P4 C626

--Move these two pins on PD C626--
SENSOR AMBIENT TEMP. ----(YE-GN)----> P12
CTRL MOD. - AMBIENT TEMP. SENSOR ----(BK-YE)----> P11
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D. - Mount the mirrors, then
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E. - Forscan > Bdy main config > set puddles to 02 View attachment 328110 and retractable mirrors to 02 View attachment 328112 . Follow all on screen instruction EXACTLY.
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F. - Reassemble adding the new switch then enjoy.
  1. I bought the whole set from the European-parts listing you posted a few days ago (minus the lights). So all I need are 4 wires (with the appropriate Ford pins) to connect the mirror and door ports on both sides, correct?
  2. I don't need to move any wires for any other sensors like you mentioned (ie. Ambient Temp Sensor) since the ones from European-parts are LHD mirrors?
  3. In theory, the wires you posted in your write-up should work right? Terminal EU2Z14474BA | NewAutoParts.com (Part No. WT1010 from the Ford Parts website: https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/electrical/wire-and-cables/terminal-6486621-1#partMatched)
3) You do not need a pin removal tool. In fact it will not help you at all. I used the eye side of a long sewing needle to depress the tabs to release the connectors for the Temp Sensor.

4) IMPORTANT! Whatever you do, do not stick anything inside the pin connectors. Depress below it. They are incredibly fragile. I ended up having to splice the connectors from the extra wires I got.
  1. So we still have to move the Temp Sensor wires even though the European-parts mirrors are for LHD mirrors? I thought that was only if the mirrors were sourced from a RHD vehicle.
  2. So you don't recommend following the pin removal procedure in the YouTube video that @jefferysanders linked here?

Got everything hooked up rather quickly. Last thing to do is drill a hole in the window button trim for the power fold button.

I quickly decided that I don’t care how LEDs look in the puddle lights so I put a note into Auto Beam UK to get a set of their LED puddle lamp assemblies, as well as a set of LED sequential turn signals for the mirrors.

Might get the mirror caps repainted and covered with clearbra. Some dumbass let a flatbed cart go at Home Depot and it slowly crept and struck my front bumper, completely tearing through the clearbra and taking away paint. Will be a good time to get the mirrors done as well.
I'm going with Autobeam puddles and blacked out indicators as well. Out of curiosity, where did you source the 4 wires (and pins) to connect the mirror/door slots?
 
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Discussion Starter #143
I got the wires from the spare harnesses I acquired from Europe. (mine is color matched to the wiring diagrams). That part I linked has the correct connector (extra part) and enough of pinned wires you need to do both sides (you just have to keep up with all green wiring), but otherwise follow the wiring on the first page and it works after you use Forscan to enable them. As far as connector disassembly, that video is useful, but I used a dental pick before I had the tools and it worked well, just be careful not to distort the female end or you will be chasing connection issues. You just have to move the temp wires to different pins on the connector heading into the mirror from the door (that's why you have to make sure you get LHD mirrors).
 

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I got the wires from the spare harnesses I acquired from Europe. (mine is color matched to the wiring diagrams). That part I linked has the correct connector (extra part) and enough of pinned wires you need to do both sides (you just have to keep up with all green wiring), but otherwise follow the wiring on the first page and it works after you use Forscan to enable them. As far as connector disassembly, that video is useful, but I used a dental pick before I had the tools and it worked well, just be careful not to distort the female end or you will be chasing connection issues. You just have to move the temp wires to different pins on the connector heading into the mirror from the door (that's why you have to make sure you get LHD mirrors).
Gotcha. Thanks for clearing all that up! I don't mind the green wires. I might even mark them up with different patterns to differentiate them. Also good to note about the connector disassembly. Sounds like they are pretty soft, so I just have to be extra careful when getting a pick in there to unlock the tabs. Also, it now makes sense on moving the temp wires. Thanks again!
 
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I got my pinned wires from a local Ford dealership. I called in an order with the part number and they ordered for me. If you want that info, I can try and dig it up tomorrow AM. I used a different dealer part number to order, but it ends up being the item ordered.

I purchased a set of donor mirrors from the UK and only used the caps and glass. Sequential turn signals and puddle lamps came from Autobeam. Good stuff for sure.

Regarding the bases and new switch w/ button, I ordered these from Sasha @ European-Parts. Decided to just drill my own hole for the switch. One less euro part to worry about.


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I got my pinned wires from a local Ford dealership. I called in an order with the part number and they ordered for me. If you want that info, I can try and dig it up tomorrow AM. I used a different dealer part number to order, but it ends up being the item ordered.

I purchased a set of donor mirrors from the UK and only used the caps and glass. Sequential turn signals and puddle lamps came from Autobeam. Good stuff for sure.

Regarding the bases and new switch w/ button, I ordered these from Sasha @ European-Parts. Decided to just drill my own hole for the switch. One less euro part to worry about.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
That would be GREAT if you could find the part number for the pinned wires you ordered from the dealer! Would help a ton! Thanks! I'm just waiting for the sequentials to come back in stock before placing my order at Autobeam. They said should be back in stock some time within the next 2 weeks.
 

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  1. So we still have to move the Temp Sensor wires even though the European-parts mirrors are for LHD mirrors? I thought that was only if the mirrors were sourced from a RHD vehicle.
  2. So you don't recommend following the pin removal procedure in the YouTube video that @jefferysanders linked here?
Didn't read through the responses so might be redundant, but better than no answer

1. Yes, gotta move em, wiring is different with the auto fold and puddle lamps. Temps get bumped to the very end.
2. From what I remember, the procedure from the video is for a different type of pin receptor, where you push the tool down the middle of the pin receptor to flex it open and pull it out. For ours, there's a tab OUTSIDE the pin holding it in place. If you push anything down the middle of the receptor, you'll damage it and it will no longer form a secure connection and you'll get drive mode unavailable. Basically you need something long thin and stiff to depress the tabs (the outside side of the pin connector) and depress the tab, and the pin slides right out.

A few notes.

I followed the original diagrams and the driver side close/open pins were flipped.

If you need add'l wires you can go get them from the salvage, along with whatever else you might feel like keeping extras of (bunch of plastic pieces and screws and whatnot were very handy to take home).
 

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Discussion Starter #148 (Edited)
I followed the original diagrams and the driver side close/open pins were flipped? @SenderPiggins

How is yours flipped again? I'm fairly sure mine is as I described in my notes (I will recheck soon I am about to go in the DP for another project), so unless I moved something and didn't update my notes...

You are saying
Pin 6 C501B ----(BN-VT)----> P4 C521
Pin 11 C501B ----(GN-VT)----> P8 C521

should be

Pin 6 C501B ----(BN-VT)----> P8 C521
Pin 11 C501B ----(GN-VT)----> P4 C521

????? or something related to the switch button. (I never messed with those wires)

If anyone else can confirm it was backwards, maybe I can get the main post updated.

What year is your car, (mine is a 2016)? Pretty sure the module was updated in late 2017/2018, that could be why.

2. From what I remember, the procedure from the video is for a different type of pin receptor, where you push the tool down the middle of the pin receptor to flex it open and pull it out. For ours, there's a tab OUTSIDE the pin holding it in place. If you push anything down the middle of the receptor, you'll damage it and it will no longer form a secure connection and you'll get drive mode unavailable. Basically you need something long thin and stiff to depress the tabs (the outside side of the pin connector) and depress the tab, and the pin slides right out. <------------------------------This video mainly shows how to get the locking caps off without breaking them, the rest in common sense as you described above. I'm was trying to be vague on this topic because I didn't want novice mod doers doing this and breaking their **** and blaming me; in the end its all easy to repair regardless.
 

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Didn't read through the responses so might be redundant, but better than no answer

1. Yes, gotta move em, wiring is different with the auto fold and puddle lamps. Temps get bumped to the very end.
2. From what I remember, the procedure from the video is for a different type of pin receptor, where you push the tool down the middle of the pin receptor to flex it open and pull it out. For ours, there's a tab OUTSIDE the pin holding it in place. If you push anything down the middle of the receptor, you'll damage it and it will no longer form a secure connection and you'll get drive mode unavailable. Basically you need something long thin and stiff to depress the tabs (the outside side of the pin connector) and depress the tab, and the pin slides right out.

A few notes.

I followed the original diagrams and the driver side close/open pins were flipped.

If you need add'l wires you can go get them from the salvage, along with whatever else you might feel like keeping extras of (bunch of plastic pieces and screws and whatnot were very handy to take home).
Long, thin and stiff? How'd you know?! Haha! Thanks for the input. Good to know about the outside tabs too. I'm sure I would've noticed once I got in there, but I like to try and get all the info I can before starting a job to cut down on surprises during the process.
 

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Cannot confirm for you, as it may have been my error, but I triple checked everything. Someone else also mentioned it having been flipped. Maybe @Si2RS could confirm for us.

Yeah, with this install **** ups are easy to fix. I damaged the two temp pins, so I cut them off and then crimped new ones on with butt connectors.
 

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Cannot confirm for you, as it may have been my error, but I triple checked everything. Someone else also mentioned it having been flipped. Maybe @Si2RS could confirm for us.

Yeah, with this install **** ups are easy to fix. I damaged the two temp pins, so I cut them off and then crimped new ones on with butt connectors.
I can definitely confirm if @jefferysanders doesn't get to his project before I install these. It'll probably be about a month. I just placed the order for the Autobeam stuff, but it won't be here for a few weeks. Also ordered the switch panel trim from the guys in Turkey, so it should be here next week. I'm placing the order for the actual mirror assemblies next week (when my credit card starts with a 5% cash back promo on PayPal purchases).
 

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Is anyone familiar with this aftermarket mirror manufacturer? It looks like it has everything for around 100 GBP/EUR


and


It looks like they're the entire mirror assembly including lenses.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
Those look like they would work, just compare the pins (those have clear photos at least) on those vs the others to be 100% sure.
 

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Those look like they would work, just compare the pins (those have clear photos at least) on those vs the others to be 100% sure.
I think that I found different mirrors with all the gadgets and pins. BTW, is the driver's side 10 pins, and passenger side 12 pins? Asking for a friend...

Additionally, this is probably a longshot, but is the BCM putting 12V to the various devices (motors, lights, etc) to turn them on? I want to bench test the functions before tearing apart the car, just to find that they don't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #155 (Edited)
I think that I found different mirrors with all the gadgets and pins. BTW, is the driver's side 10 pins, and passenger side 12 pins? Asking for a friend...

Additionally, this is probably a longshot, but is the BCM putting 12V to the various devices (motors, lights, etc) to turn them on? I want to bench test the functions before tearing apart the car, just to find that they don't work.
8 DS and 10 PS USED on the connectors (there are 2 more for BLIS remaining); Pretty sure it's just 12v.
.
 

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Forgot to mention one last thing!

You're gonna need new screws to mount.

These from AutoZone were the best fit I was able to find. They have a bigger head than most so I went with these.
I actually mention a dental pick in my later post I believe, that works amazing well and is available everywhere there is a pharmacy. I also opted for changing out the screws and I thought [going back and looking I missed that]I mentioned what used on the first page. I had rust forming around my holes, so I hit it with a cutip and some touch up paint/rust reformed. I used Dorman 785-164 license plate screws, very similar to what you used, but standard size, I do need to swap them to stainless when I get a chance to change them.
So I have everything except the indicators and puddle lamps, but those should be here this week. Is there a reason we need to use new screws to mount these mirrors? Are the screws different than the OEM ones? Or could I just order new OEM ones (Part No. W708396)? I'm hoping to install these in the next couple weeks, and want to make sure I have all the necessary hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
So I have everything except the indicators and puddle lamps, but those should be here this week. Is there a reason we need to use new screws to mount these mirrors? Are the screws different than the OEM ones? Or could I just order new OEM ones (Part No. W708396)? I'm hoping to install these in the next couple weeks, and want to make sure I have all the necessary hardware.
The new ones aren't tapped or threaded, I replaced mine because they were a source of rust and corrosion... (mine weren't tapped at least), if you look back there is a few suggestions on what to use all found at local car parts stores.
 

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The new ones aren't tapped or threaded, I replaced mine because they were a source of rust and corrosion... (mine weren't tapped at least), if you look back there is a few suggestions on what to use all found at local car parts stores.
Ah. Gotcha. So you just forced the screws down into the holes, thus making your own threads in the plastic? I didn't notice that little detail through the insulation when I was checking out the parts. Wonder why they don't come threaded already.
346657

346658

346659
 

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Maybe different screws are used in different markets not sure lol.
Ha! Wouldn't put it past Ford. Now I see why the stock screws won't work. Because they need to be thicker to be able to thread into the plastic.
 
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