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Discussion Starter #1
Please bear with me, I haven't heard of all these symptoms in any other posts.
2016, 11,000 miles stored winters. Last year started getting AWD off, no drive modes, no hill start assist. Dealer pulled rear wheel speed sensor bad. Replaced, car was good til recently. 2 weeks ago was cruising at 60 when the speedometer dropped to 0 and all the same alarms came up. Back to the dealer, front wheel sensor code this time. Replaced, drove car 10 miles, Bam no speedometer and all the same alarms. It's going back tomorrow, any of this sound familiar to anybody? What's up with the speedometer dropping to 0 at 60 mph? Thanks for any comments!
 

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Are you on your original battery? If so, replace it. Some people have had their dash light up like a Christmas tree. My car was throwing codes as well. I also believe it killed my infotainment system. After replacing the battery, all of the codes went away. The infotainment system was replaced under warranty. Just a thought.
 

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Original battery. If it is the battery being bad, would that mean that the 2 speed sensor codes were phantom codes in the computer?
 

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Has the car been in any accidents? If so, there is probably a loose ground near the repairs. If not, put a good charger on the battery and see if the problems go away for a week or so. Or go to Autozone and have them test your battery.

Very likely a bad battery though, replace with a comparable AGM type. Bad batteries cause all sorts of weirdness in these cars.
 

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Original battery. If it is the battery being bad, would that mean that the 2 speed sensor codes were phantom codes in the computer?
The battery isn't a bad suggestion considering it's age. I've had my wifes escape battery go south and weird things happen electronically, same as a bad earth.
The other things it could be are the BCM the IPC or the ABS modules, they're all involved in the speedo display. The sensors aren't necessarily faulty at all because a faulty module sometimes flags a sensor when in fact the issue is the module. After 2 different sensor replacements I'd have thought the dealer muppet would have been suspicious. Frankly when the module threw a second sensor fault for a different sensor a smart tech would be smelling a rat.

Ciao
 

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Thank you for the suggestions everybody! I'm the original owner, no accidents or work other than the head gasket repair. It was doing this before the HG fix. So are we talking about a barely low battery here? Car can sit for a while and it will fire up immediately. I do understand it is 4 years old tho.
 

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Thank you for the suggestions everybody! I'm the original owner, no accidents or work other than the head gasket repair. It was doing this before the HG fix. So are we talking about a barely low battery here? Car can sit for a while and it will fire up immediately. I do understand it is 4 years old tho.
Batteries that get to this age are very unpredictable. I jumped into the Escape one morning after driving it the day before and hit the start button and all hell broke loose on the dash. All sorts of crazy warnings unrelated to a bad battery or each other. Voltage checked at 12.6 which is not fully charged but OKish but when I turned the ignition on it dropped to 10.5. Replaced the battery and all good. I then charged the old battery on the bench and checked it over a few days and it's readings cycled from 12.8 to 8.5 volts until it settled at about 8.5. What was happening was removing the battery from the car had stirred up the sediment in the bottom which is the natural shedding off the plates as it ages and the battery seems to recover but let it settle again for a few days and the sediment starts to short or partially short out the plates and the battery drops its bundle.In the bin it went.
4 years for a battery in a car with the auto start system is pretty good these days. BTW I stopped the 30 second lights on delay after you lock the car at night after that. It's pointless for me and it just adds extra burden to the batteries life.

Ciao
 

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I agree with checking the battery. Put a multimeter on it while car is off and on. Should be 12.6-12.7 with car off. If my car sat for more then 3 days I would gett multiple codes including "drive mode not available." Showed 12.1 on multimeter and when the car was running it would go to 14.8. I just changed to an optima yellow top and it is running fine and no codes. It actually starts stronger and quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate them all! I'm going to hold off on the dealer visit until I check out the battery angle. I'll let you know what I find, any hot tips on a replacement battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, just put a meter on the battery. 12.4 with the car off after sitting overnight, 14.49 with the car running. Thoughts on those numbers? Thanks!
 

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Ok, just put a meter on the battery. 12.4 with the car off after sitting overnight, 14.49 with the car running. Thoughts on those numbers? Thanks!
12.4V no load is bad. 14.49 running is alternator output. Whats the voltage with the engine stopped and the headlights on.BTW you need to wait 40 minutes after shutting down the car to check battery voltage and current draw on these things as thats how long it takes for all the modules to fully power down.

Ciao
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Headlights won't stay on with the car off. Never noticed that before but I don't think I've ever tried it purposely...
 

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When my car still had the original battery in it, the car started up like a champ. Even though the voltage was dipping into the low 7 volt range(when the starter was cranking). Resting voltage was around 10 volts immediately after a drive. Running it was around 14.4-ish. Never once did the car crank slow.

The first thing I noticed that wouldn't work because of the condition on the battery was the Auto Start Stop feature stopped working. It took me a while to notice this because I always turn it off. But one day I noticed the little grayed out icon on the info screen between the gauges. After the battery was replaced it worked as it should. Others have also noted this.

I would get the occasional code, or the Drive Mode Not Available message. And like I said earlier, my infotainment system was becoming very laggy.

After replacing the original battery, which was on my car for almost 3 years... All codes went away and haven't seen them since. The infotainment system was already too far gone, and the dealer ordered another APIM module.

This car is kind of hard on batteries. My new-ish battery is about 1 year old now and Auto Start Stop feature stopped working about 6 months after replacement. I guess the RS should be put on a a battery tender if it's not driven at least every other day. My car is driven maybe 2 times a week normally, if it's not sitting for a week at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey TimF, I'm looking at the Optima yellow top 96R. Parts guy says its bigger than the factory one by a bit. Does it fit, did you have any problems getting it in there? Or anyone else that's using one? Thanks!
 

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The yellow top H6 fits no problem, I installed one not too long ago. As long as you move the front of the battery box out of the way it shouldn't give you any trouble when you install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well guys, put my new Optima yellow top in and still throwing all the same alarms. Now I've got 12.67 volts when car is off. Looks like its back to the dealer.....
 

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12.67 should be good with car off. Check it with car running under a load and should be 14.5 ish. On those videos, there was a way to check the alternator with a multimeter but I couldn’t really reach down to the alternator with the probe with the car running.
My codes went away with new battery. Maybe ceck all the grounds and connection at battery.
 

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12.67 should be good with car off. Check it with car running under a load and should be 14.5 ish. On those videos, there was a way to check the alternator with a multimeter but I couldn’t really reach down to the alternator with the probe with the car running.
My codes went away with new battery. Maybe ceck all the grounds and connection at battery.
The only way to have confidence in a battery is to test it under load. Find yourself an old 12 volt light bulb the highest wattage you can find ( I use an old stop lamp) and solder 2 wires to it, To check the battery just connect the leads to the battery and the lamp lights up and loads the battery and its now you test the voltage. No load voltage is not a definitive test. You can also set the headlight delay to 60 seconds in auto and shut the car down and quickly test the battery voltage while the headlights are still on. I had the Escape battery tested at a battery shop with his fancy load tester which said it was ok but it wasn't.
Ciao
 
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