Ford Focus RS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 133 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone removed the fiber/cloth heat shield that's under the hood?
Have you experienced any issues with the hood paint? Or is the paint on this car more tolerant? Or the heat on this engine not that high?

I'm looking to take it out for sound effects and
A E S T H E T I C S
but obviously won't if it causes any long term damage to the hood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
I always thought it was a fire blanket of sorts. The clips that hold it on are supposed to melt in the event of a fire and "smother" the fire in hopes it would be put out. Not sure how true that is but thats why i always left them on in the past.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,971 Posts
I always thought it was a fire blanket of sorts. The clips that hold it on are supposed to melt in the event of a fire and "smother" the fire in hopes it would be put out. Not sure how true that is but thats why i always left them on in the past.
The entire thing would melt. It's not for fire/heat suppression.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
As an update since this has been resurected:

I can hear the turbo spooling after about 2.7k RPM and the recirculation valve doing its thing after letting off of the throttle. The induction noise that came up after I put in the Cobb air filter is louder. It reminds me of my old GLI after a new intake, Forge recirculation valve, and turbo inlet upgrade.

I don't think the factory airbox is sealing anymore, but given that it's pulling air from nowhere outside the engine (that I could see) I don't think that's a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
I took mine out months ago and it does sound great to hear the turbo. The padding does somewhat seal the top of the air box when the hood is closed, so I glued solid a foam lid on top of the air box so you don't suck in hot engine air. There seems to be a bit of a ram effect with the stock system so I didn't want to mess with that. Car runs perfect and sounds great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,959 Posts
Its not just heat, but noise as well.

Its designed to quiet down the engine a bit and reduce the noise the Direct Injection makes.

Its also designed to insulate the hood against engine heat. Long term heat on the hood bakes the paint and causes it to flake off prematurely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: opera_bob and Paolo

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Its not just heat, but noise as well.

Its designed to quiet down the engine a bit and reduce the noise the Direct Injection makes.

Its also designed to insulate the hood against engine heat. Long term heat on the hood bakes the paint and causes it to flake off prematurely.
Without a doubt heat also. This engine is crazy hot after even the smallest of trips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I've yet to get the engine temp to go over halfway even in 90 degree weather. Not sure that constitutes as "crazy" hot. Try driving a 370z if you want to see an engine that bakes itself even in extremely mild conditions. God help you if you put the hammer down.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
957 Posts
I've yet to get the engine temp to go over halfway even in 90 degree weather. Not sure that constitutes as "crazy" hot. Try driving a 370z if you want to see an engine that bakes itself even in extremely mild conditions. God help you if you put the hammer down.
I don't think we are saying that the engine is overheating, we are saying that our engine bays get waaaaay hotter than most cars tend to - which doesn't mean the engine itself is getting out of normal operating temp range, it just means that our engine bays don't tend to have an effective way to get the ambient air heat out of it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Have several cars from the 70s with v8s and original paint..... none of them have those dumb modern heat and pads. So if 30+ years is considered premature? Nope. I'm positive it's for sound and to seal the poorly designed air box. Had they closed it from the top it wouldn't need the pad, and could still open up to replace the filter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
957 Posts
Have several cars from the 70s with v8s and original paint..... none of them have those dumb modern heat and pads. So if 30+ years is considered premature? Nope. I'm positive it's for sound and to seal the poorly designed air box. Had they closed it from the top it wouldn't need the pad, and could still open up to replace the filter.
...you're comparing apples and oranges lol
not even close to the same issues or materials or paint or most anything else between 70s V8s and a modern econo-box

it's definitely for sound - but that doesn't mean it doesn't also try to keep our thin sheet metal hoods protected from the (rather excessive) heat in our engine bays
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
Have several cars from the 70s with v8s and original paint..... none of them have those dumb modern heat and pads. So if 30+ years is considered premature? Nope. I'm positive it's for sound and to seal the poorly designed air box. Had they closed it from the top it wouldn't need the pad, and could still open up to replace the filter.
I agree , call me crazy but I also removed the engine cover, ( it does trap a lot of heat )and front and rear rubber hood seals. That small gap lets a huge amount of hot air to escape from under the hood. Thinking of installing hood louvers at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I'm thinking of just fabricating something to hold down just that small section that goes over the air box, after I cut it to size and remove the rest of course.

Got down low and observed that area as the hood came all the way down past latching position, noticed there is a channel to the right that isn't "sealed" so I don't think it actually matters. It was just a half ass attempt to get the majority of the air to be rammed through the front. I'm sure it works fine, but am fairly convinced the performance impact of opening that area would have is negligible at most. Probably not even measurable.

Besides, this hood needs all the heat SHEDDING it can get. Not everyone is up for cutting holes for vents, and doing all that water catch nonsense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
I'm thinking of just fabricating something to hold down just that small section that goes over the air box, after I cut it to size and remove the rest of course.

Got down low and observed that area as the hood came all the way down past latching position, noticed there is a channel to the right that isn't "sealed" so I don't think it actually matters. It was just a half ass attempt to get the majority of the air to be rammed through the front. I'm sure it works fine, but am fairly convinced the performance impact of opening that area would have is negligible at most. Probably not even measurable.

Besides, this hood needs all the heat SHEDDING it can get. Not everyone is up for cutting holes for vents, and doing all that water catch nonsense.
I went to the local Dollar Store and bought a solid foam knee pad. It's is black with a checker plate finish and about 1/4 inch thick dense foam . Cut it to shape with scissors and used two sided tape to mount onto the rubber ring seal on top the air box. it looks great , works perfect, and really inexpensive. Sorry .I don't have photo's. If you want a lid it's an easy solution. :encouragement:
 
  • Like
Reactions: opera_bob

·
Registered
Joined
·
510 Posts
So, this thread has kind of evolved, and now my interest is piqued. Last weekend I was at an AX event on a local track, and it had to be 110+ on the tarmac. It was insane heat. I love the look of hood vents, and have installed them on previous vehicles (off-road Jeeps), but I'm not sure I can carve up my hood just yet. Plus, the whole water issue, since this is a daily driver for me.

Someone mentioned removing the rear hood seal, as well as the underhood lining. Are these solutions worthwhile for helping to evacuate some heat under hood? I really want to avoid paint issues, and it's already hot as balls down here in NC in the summer sun.

If I go that route, should I get something like the Velossatech snorkel/intake duct and the block-off plate for the airbox, to avoid hot IATs?

What are some other ways to help reduce underhood temps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
555 Posts
So, this thread has kind of evolved, and now my interest is piqued. Last weekend I was at an AX event on a local track, and it had to be 110+ on the tarmac. It was insane heat. I love the look of hood vents, and have installed them on previous vehicles (off-road Jeeps), but I'm not sure I can carve up my hood just yet. Plus, the whole water issue, since this is a daily driver for me.

Someone mentioned removing the rear hood seal, as well as the underhood lining. Are these solutions worthwhile for helping to evacuate some heat under hood? I really want to avoid paint issues, and it's already hot as balls down here in NC in the summer sun.

If I go that route, should I get something like the Velossatech snorkel/intake duct and the block-off plate for the airbox, to avoid hot IATs?

What are some other ways to help reduce underhood temps?
I removed lining, seals and engine cover with no problems and it has rained a lot here this year !! Next will be the battery for more air space and better weight distribution. :fat:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
I'm thinking of just fabricating something to hold down just that small section that goes over the air box, after I cut it to size and remove the rest of course.

Got down low and observed that area as the hood came all the way down past latching position, noticed there is a channel to the right that isn't "sealed" so I don't think it actually matters. It was just a half ass attempt to get the majority of the air to be rammed through the front. I'm sure it works fine, but am fairly convinced the performance impact of opening that area would have is negligible at most. Probably not even measurable.

Besides, this hood needs all the heat SHEDDING it can get. Not everyone is up for cutting holes for vents, and doing all that water catch nonsense.
I went to the local Dollar Store and bought a solid foam knee pad. It's is black with a checker plate finish and about 1/4 inch thick dense foam . Cut it to shape with scissors and used two sided tape to mount onto the rubber ring seal on top the air box. it looks great , works perfect, and really inexpensive. Sorry .I don't have photo's. If you want a lid it's an easy solution.
Was thinking of doing the same thing just a little more high tech. Make something machine precision cut to the dimensions of the air box top AND side out of a heavier industrial heat resistant rubber that's soft enough to create a perfect seal when used with double sided adhesive but firm enough not to flex AT ALL when the engine is sucking air through that tiny ass opening at full tilt. Maybe even engrave ford performance into it or something for kicks to make it look like it's supposed to be there. Would put RS but it already says RS on top of the air box like 3 inches away and that would look stupid. Also considered cutting out the hood foam just around that box, then using that piece to make a mold after its cut to fit. Then buy a carbon fiber kit and some resin and make a cap for it with a rubber seal inside it just like the one the air box uses to seal to the hood. Think that would look nice since I'm replacing all the plastic in the engine bay with CF. Making CF parts isn't as hard as people who sel them would like you to believe it is, have several friends that DIY CF and it looks phenomenal if done correctly.
 
1 - 20 of 133 Posts
Top