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Discussion Starter #22
The bolt shown is a pinch bolt so there is no adjustment
What the tech did was to loosen the pinch bolt with wheels on the alignment rack and the full body weight on the suspension. The tech then pushed outward on the hub/bottom of strut. The camber changed a small amount, but not much. The only other way to get more adjustment is to raise the strut higher in the hub, which raises ride height and slightly adds more negative camber. In reality there is only minimal changes that can be made and very difficult to actually set equal side to side. I'd say as long as you're withim 0.5 deg left to right camber I wouldn't waste my time trying to get them matched.
 

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Maybe we can get an answer from @FordService about this then.

The manual specifies -1.51° +/- 1.25°, there must be a reason the range is specified in the manual. These are things that are worked out in design before a production chassis is ever stamped.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
The only thing I can say is to crawl under your RS and find the adjustment points...There aren't any for camber, front or rear.

The Ford tech confirmed that there is no way to really set camber. He said that on some cars (not sure which model) that they'd drill out the upper strut mounting bolt holes so they could shift the tops of the struts inward (more negative camber). But on the RS, even if you wanted to go thru the hassel there's no space for the springs to move. Regardless of the Ford spec there just isn't any appreciable camber to be had with a stock setup. If someone else has any hands on experience I'd welcome the input.
 

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At the dealer now. Explained the pulling at WOT and they retorted it was the car combating the torque steer. I replied with multiple people on forums are having same issue and have had their car realigned and have found that some wheels are out of spec. They are putting it on the rack, I'll update as soon as get it back on what they find.

Update: all within spec
image.jpeg
 

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At the dealer now. Explained the pulling at WOT and they retorted it was the car combating the torque steer. I replied with multiple people on forums are having same issue and have had their car realigned and have found that some wheels are out of spec. They are putting it on the rack, I'll update as soon as get it back on what they find.

Update: all within spec
View attachment 40041
i have the same issue, pulling to the right when WOT. Did not go for an alignment, it seems that most if not all owners have experienced it which lets me think it is not an alignment issue, but rather what your dealer told you, about the torque steer.
 

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I've experienced it while overtaking at free way speeds going right. It feels like torque steer. My theory is that the RDU at those speeds and conditions is disconnected so when you press the gas and turn the wheel right it pulls that way just like an over powered FWD car. The RDU then kicks in after .5 to 1 second. Being this is the 1st system of its kind I was expecting quirks like this. The actual amount I moved over to the right more than intended was barely noticeable. It's the feeling through the wheel that was unexpected.
 

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Maybe we can get an answer from @FordService about this then.

The manual specifies -1.51° +/- 1.25°, there must be a reason the range is specified in the manual. These are things that are worked out in design before a production chassis is ever stamped.

Just because there is a tolerance does not mean that there is significant adjustment. Based on the service manual there is a little bit, but its not equal to the tolerance value.

The tolerance value is just an acceptable limit based on all the manufacturing tolerance summations and geometries. Or if your in an accident, etc.
 

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I've experienced it while overtaking at free way speeds going right. It feels like torque steer. My theory is that the RDU at those speeds and conditions is disconnected so when you press the gas and turn the wheel right it pulls that way just like an over powered FWD car. The RDU then kicks in after .5 to 1 second. Being this is the 1st system of its kind I was expecting quirks like this. The actual amount I moved over to the right more than intended was barely noticeable. It's the feeling through the wheel that was unexpected.
I also agree feeling this. I thought I was the only one. It is actually a bit unsettling. At highway speeds, I'll drop down a couple gears to 4th go hard throttle and there is this unsettled jostle in the rear that causes me to feel it through the wheel as well. I would agree that the RDU does kick in at some point to try and correct it though, there is a slight delay in this transition.

I wonder if its an alignment issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
If your toe is off, front or rear, it can affect behavior on crowned roads. My rear toe was -0.05 on left rear and 0.30 on the right.....once corrected the pulling reduced quite a bit. I don't discount the theory of the delay in rear clutch engagement thus actually having instantaneous front torque steer...but alignment seems to contribute to the issue...at least in my case.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yeah, once on the power the vectoring allows you to overcome the push. Honestly with the Cup2 you are probably carrying a lot of speed into the corner, so if you're pushing then the only option is a slower in speed and earlier on the throttle. There simply no way to get any appreciable camber in the front bc of strut tower constraints and no way to alterms the hub angle. Camber bolts wouldn't help on the RS front knuckles. Unfortunately unless someone is willing to spend quite a bit of money re-engineering the front suspension we are stuck with what we've got.....-1.5 deg front camber plus or minus a few degrees.....sad!
 

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You might want to rethink that.
I'd rather you help me rethink it, because on this type of suspension design, I just don't see it... Unless the Mk3 is drastically different from a Mk1 in a way that isn't apparent from that picture.

I guess I'll just have to try it myself.
 

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Just getting my alignment done, the quicklane guy nearly fought me saying there was no such thing for my car. If you get push back insist they talk to a manager because it IS free for our focus within the first 12 months (as others have stated).

tl;dr - don't be a pushover, push back about the free alignment.
 

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Some dealers don't do there own alignment, and they sub it out. I don't know if the dealer gets paid back from corporate for a sub contracted job.
 

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Are you kidding me? I tried to get my dealer to do an alignment on delivery and they gave me the run around. I even mentioned paying for it and they still didn't want to do it. I was just about to go pay for my own. Good thing I stopped taking my car to them. Time to find another dealer I can trust with the car.
Which Bay Area dealer was this? I'll make sure to avoid them lol.
 
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