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OK I have finally got these in and running.
It's so nice to have a real turbo boost gauge as well as real water and oil temps from actual sensors and not calculated from the ECU
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I hydrodipped the black pod cups Nitrous blue and black CF pattern.
I have a hydrodip thread somewhere in here.
I also have a set black with gold CF that look pretty nice I may swap out.
By far the easiest way to install the oil and water temp probes was thru the bung gally ports on the block.
That is for a v5 version of the block. On the earlier v4 version of the block the oil galley plug is not threaded and can't be removed.
Ford uses the coolant gally for a block heater on cold climate cars.
There is no way I'd use a sandwich plate on this set up and deal with those wires underneath and always flopping around during oil changes, so prone to leaks.
Get rid of those sandwich plates......
The top galley bung plug is coolant.
The bottom galley bung plug is oil.
![Auto part Engine Fuel line Wheel Vehicle]()
![Auto part Engine Rim Wheel]()
View attachment 236201
Coolant bung is 3/4 NPT x (1/8 npt for the Defi and most temp sensors)
I was able to find these at Summit racing. Part: ICT Billet AN912-12-02A
![Product Metal Plumbing fitting Iron Steel]()
![Electronics Calipers Measuring instrument Technology Tool]()
The bottom oil plug was a little more difficult to nail down.
Ford seems to indicate it's a metric M22 galley bung plug.
When I went to acquire one to check measurements, the Ford part system had this part incorrectly labled and it took a few weeks to get that sorted and the part in my hands.
Female and male NPT can be a bit confusing.
In the end I found the fitting to be an M24 metric. I couldn't really find these fittings.
I thought I would have to have a machine shop weld one up from the ford galley plug and tap and die it.
In the end I found a local hot rod shop, (we have a lot of those in SoCal) that had a couple of these fittings.
I ended up with a M24 x M20 and then an M20 x 1/8 NPT.
![Nut Knockout punch Household hardware Auto part Fastener]()
The Defi Advance series of gauges utilizes a control unit that all the probes run too and then a single wire from the controller to the gauges.
The gauges can then be daisy chained together in the pod.
I prefer this type of a set up for ease of install.
The advance Defi unit also has a small wired remote that I ran and placed in the glove box.
I can take it out and play with the functions when needed.
I placed the control unit in the engine bay on the passenger side stuffed near the shock tower and attached to the underside.
![Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Hood]()
I tapped the power, switched power and ground wires from the old OEM fake gauges wire harness underneath the center speaker grill to the defi power wire harness.
Since the controller is in the engine bay I could have run power, switched power from the fuse box as well.
There is the main OEM wire loom and large gromet thru the fire wall located behind the glove box.
I removed the glove box and ran the power wire to the engine bay and ran the one sensor wire from the control unit in the engine bay back behind the glove box and into the center grill where the gauges are.
That gromet is thick and kind of a PITA to get a whole thru there.
Big loom of wiring right in the way.
For the boost sensor I spliced a 'T' piece in the vacuum line on top of the motor with a vacum line running back behind the engine.
Ran the blue vacuum line to the sensor and the wire from the sensor to the controller.
![Vehicle Engine Auto part Car Subcompact car]()
![Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Car]()
![Vehicle Car Auto part Tire Fender]()
The temp sensors then just run from the controller back behind with the boost line and to the front of the motor galley bungs.
The defi gauges are nice, they have warnings that can be set, they have max peak and memory playback as well.
NOTE: I have a couple of Defi LInk gauge set ups 60mm in white and red colors with leads and everything needed.
I am working up a couple of pods for them.
The difference in the link v advance is no wired remote, all controls are on the controller.
Meaning the controller kinda needs to be mounted where you can get to it to set peak, warnings, etc.
so probably mount in the glove box and run sensor wires to it.
It's so nice to have a real turbo boost gauge as well as real water and oil temps from actual sensors and not calculated from the ECU
I hydrodipped the black pod cups Nitrous blue and black CF pattern.
I have a hydrodip thread somewhere in here.
I also have a set black with gold CF that look pretty nice I may swap out.
By far the easiest way to install the oil and water temp probes was thru the bung gally ports on the block.
That is for a v5 version of the block. On the earlier v4 version of the block the oil galley plug is not threaded and can't be removed.
Ford uses the coolant gally for a block heater on cold climate cars.
There is no way I'd use a sandwich plate on this set up and deal with those wires underneath and always flopping around during oil changes, so prone to leaks.
Get rid of those sandwich plates......
The top galley bung plug is coolant.
The bottom galley bung plug is oil.
View attachment 236201
Coolant bung is 3/4 NPT x (1/8 npt for the Defi and most temp sensors)
I was able to find these at Summit racing. Part: ICT Billet AN912-12-02A
The bottom oil plug was a little more difficult to nail down.
Ford seems to indicate it's a metric M22 galley bung plug.
When I went to acquire one to check measurements, the Ford part system had this part incorrectly labled and it took a few weeks to get that sorted and the part in my hands.
Female and male NPT can be a bit confusing.
In the end I found the fitting to be an M24 metric. I couldn't really find these fittings.
I thought I would have to have a machine shop weld one up from the ford galley plug and tap and die it.
In the end I found a local hot rod shop, (we have a lot of those in SoCal) that had a couple of these fittings.
I ended up with a M24 x M20 and then an M20 x 1/8 NPT.
The Defi Advance series of gauges utilizes a control unit that all the probes run too and then a single wire from the controller to the gauges.
The gauges can then be daisy chained together in the pod.
I prefer this type of a set up for ease of install.
The advance Defi unit also has a small wired remote that I ran and placed in the glove box.
I can take it out and play with the functions when needed.
I placed the control unit in the engine bay on the passenger side stuffed near the shock tower and attached to the underside.
I tapped the power, switched power and ground wires from the old OEM fake gauges wire harness underneath the center speaker grill to the defi power wire harness.
Since the controller is in the engine bay I could have run power, switched power from the fuse box as well.
There is the main OEM wire loom and large gromet thru the fire wall located behind the glove box.
I removed the glove box and ran the power wire to the engine bay and ran the one sensor wire from the control unit in the engine bay back behind the glove box and into the center grill where the gauges are.
That gromet is thick and kind of a PITA to get a whole thru there.
Big loom of wiring right in the way.
For the boost sensor I spliced a 'T' piece in the vacuum line on top of the motor with a vacum line running back behind the engine.
Ran the blue vacuum line to the sensor and the wire from the sensor to the controller.
The temp sensors then just run from the controller back behind with the boost line and to the front of the motor galley bungs.
The defi gauges are nice, they have warnings that can be set, they have max peak and memory playback as well.
NOTE: I have a couple of Defi LInk gauge set ups 60mm in white and red colors with leads and everything needed.
I am working up a couple of pods for them.
The difference in the link v advance is no wired remote, all controls are on the controller.
Meaning the controller kinda needs to be mounted where you can get to it to set peak, warnings, etc.
so probably mount in the glove box and run sensor wires to it.
