[Zaluss]

On the reverse video, it kind of looks like the sounds match up to your transmission movement. I'm not sure if the level of movement is normal, but it seemed like the transmission was moving around a lot.

Yeah that's what I was thinking too.

You can see the contact in the second video. The swaybar/endlink are hitting the steering tie rod. I had this issue when I was running FA 500 coilovers and used the stock endlinks instead of the much shorter ones supplied with the kit (Like 4-5" shorter than even the WLs). Looks like your coilovers have a similar lower mounting point for the top of the endlink, and should have come with a set of the correct length. There should be like a 1-2" gap between the swaybar and the steering tie rod.

You can prove this easily by removing both ELs and driving, the pop will go away.

Yeah I can see the endlink making contact but unfortunately the Ohlins did not include nor do they supply any endlinks themselves.

It was recommended on the FB group to remove the washers entirely as it makes it wide enough to make contact and just torque them down as hard as you can. I may try that after disconnecting the FSB to isolate the noise.

 

[Biznatch]

Yeah that's what I was thinking too.



Yeah I can see the endlink making contact but unfortunately the Ohlins did not include nor do they supply any endlinks themselves.

It was recommended on the FB group to remove the washers entirely as it makes it wide enough to make contact and just torque them down as hard as you can. I may try that after disconnecting the FSB to isolate the noise.

That won't fix the issue, the ELs are too long and push the swaybar too low causing the contact. Shifting anything with spacers won't help.

 

[Zaluss]

That won't fix the issue, the ELs are too long and push the swaybar too low causing the contact. Shifting anything with spacers won't help.

Removed both endlinks and popping noise persists... 😐

 

[Biznatch]

Removed both endlinks and popping noise persists... 😐

Sounds like either the swaybar isn't sitting correctly in the bushings (they're keyed and not meant to rotate freely in the bushings), or the bushings are toast from the ELs being too long and forcing it down. Does the swaybar move freely up/down (it shouldn't move much easily)? Is it hanging down low enough to still contact the tie rod, even without the ELs installed?

 

[Zaluss]

Sounds like either the swaybar isn't sitting correctly in the bushings (they're keyed and not meant to rotate freely in the bushings), or the bushings are toast from the ELs being too long and forcing it down. Does the swaybar move freely up/down (it shouldn't move much easily)? Is it hanging down low enough to still contact the tie rod, even without the ELs installed?

The swaybar is still pretty stiff, only moving maybe an inch or so up and down. Requires quite a bit of force to move up or down.

Without the endlinks installed, it doesn't appear to be hanging low enough to hit the tierods as it required a bit of force down to install the WL endlinks.

At this point I'm convinced it's the strut mount (which is brand new) or a preload issue so I'm likely going to take the coilover out (again), disassemble it, and inspect it closely.

 

[BigFatFlip]

So after my defeat from installing my engine cover, I decided to scope out the end links.

I dug up my old stock front coilovers and measured the distance from the top hat down to the end link mounting and compared it to where the hole is on my current set-up (Ohlins + Vorshlag camber plates). It turns out that my "ideal" endlink length needs to be a good 1" shorter than stock.

Looking at the Whitelines, at the shortest setting, they are still about 1/2"-3/4" too long. I'm guessing this is due to the added stack height and maybe camber from the Vorshlag plates.

Debating now if I should modify these Whitelines shorter or buy some shorter off the shelf threaded turn buckles...

 

[Biznatch]

So after my defeat from installing my engine cover, I decided to scope out the end links.

I dug up my old stock front coilovers and measured the distance from the top hat down to the end link mounting and compared it to where the hole is on my current set-up (Ohlins + Vorshlag camber plates). It turns out that my "ideal" endlink length needs to be a good 1" shorter than stock.

Looking at the Whitelines, at the shortest setting, they are still about 1/2"-3/4" too long. I'm guessing this is due to the added stack height and maybe camber from the Vorshlag plates.

Debating now if I should modify these Whitelines shorter or buy some shorter off the shelf threaded turn buckles...

I think the correct measurement would be from the base of the coilover (Where it seats in the A-arm) to the EL mount. That measurement is static and doesn't change with the height of the spring/strut.

 

[Biznatch]

Removed both endlinks and popping noise persists... 😐

With the EL removed, exactly when does the popping occur? When I had the longer ELs on, I would get a pop when turning the wheels to lock. This caused the tierod to move under the swaybar, and the pop was it hitting the tierod, and a second pop when I turned back from lock.

 

[Zaluss]

With the EL removed, exactly when does the popping occur? When I had the longer ELs on, I would get a pop when turning the wheels to lock. This caused the tierod to move under the swaybar, and the pop was it hitting the tierod, and a second pop when I turned back from lock.

Over bumps with wheel straight.

I had thought, based on the video I shared above, that the top of the swaybar was hitting the frame but I saw no evidence of contact. Taking off the endlinks entirely and moving over bumps on a straight (tested specifically on my driveway dip to induce a bump) results in this popping/clunking from the front.

I can only conclude that it's either preload, top mounts, or control arms/ball joints. No movement on the wheel itself though when looking for bushing/ball joint issues and this wasn't an issue prior to moving to coilovers.

 

[BigFatFlip]

I think the correct measurement would be from the base of the coilover (Where it seats in the A-arm) to the EL mount. That measurement is static and doesn't change with the height of the spring/strut.

Thanks, that makes sense. I'll check that out tonight and see how it compares.

 

[Zaluss]

Whelp I think I found my problem. Must of torqued it down while it was loose or the new OE top hat was damaged/misaligned.

I thought it was fused but it came off ok. There is some thread damage but the nut doesn't go down that far.

Oof...

 

[nicklulu]

You can still tap it I hope

 

[morbid]

Did it elongate the hole in the top hat, or is it just an illusion?

 

[Zaluss]

Did it elongate the hole in the top hat, or is it just an illusion?

It did just slightly. I ordered a new one since it's only $30 just in case.

However this 'top pin spacer' might be tricky to find. I reached out to a couple of Ohlin vendors that carries spare parts to see if its available. Otherwise my only options would be to find someone to machine one or fall back to the Vorshlag top hats which would be unfortunate.

I had already reached out to them previously (because I thought I lost it) and they said Ohlins never responded...so here's hoping round two is better.

Here is the other one.

 

[Zaluss]

Ok so I know I derailed this thread a bit with my suspension fiasco but now that I have the Vorshlag camber plates all dialed in and alignment done, back to endlinks.

With both front Whiteline endlinks installed and adjusted for zero preload, I was getting some serious frame rubbing on the passenger side (only -2.0 camber). I removed the washers completely and I was still getting rubbing so I replaced the passenger side only with the OEM endlink and replaced the drivers side endlink with the massive endlink (since it was about the same size) then adjusted the best I could.

No more rubbing.

 

[BigFatFlip]

Just got these yesterday. Plan is to reuse the whiteline joints with these shorter turn buckles. Got a pair of 210mm and 190mm to try out. Hopefully they get the front sway bar back to level and get rid of my clunking.

Thanks to @Hank for recommending Midwest control products in his end link post!