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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a valid reason anyone would adjust, or have adjusted, their RS's toe in/out to maximum toe in? TY!
 

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Toe-in promotes stability at high speed and also promotes understeer in slow corners. Too much makes the car dangerous in low grip situations because it starts understeering also at high speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the responses!

The reason I asked is one of the two previous owners of my RS decide that max toe in was advisable for some reason. The Service Tech who realigned my F alignment today said he'd never seen anything like it in 25+ years of work. Completely destroyed new front tires in 2000 miles. I may have involuntarily directed some unChristianly thoughts 👿 towards the previous owners. The inside 2-2.5 ins of the tire tread are burned through to the point I have steel belt material sticking into open air. I had to abandon my car at the dealership as it was too dangerous to drive the next mile or two! 🤬 As all their loners were out; and I'd managed to forget my cell, and was unable to contact the only number I have memorized, I was lucky the dealership looked out for me and gave me a lift home (approx 25 miles).

BTW: Wasn't oblivious to potential F alignment issues. On smooth flat pavement; with no following or oncoming traffic I've taken my hands off the wheel slightly (several times since purchase). The RS tracked straight as an arrow with no shudder through the steering column or wheel.

Previous owners: I'll pray for you tonight! ☠
 

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That's crazy! So what did the toe end up being at, and did the sides match? I wasn't sure if they did some front end work right before selling it, but didn't align it after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's crazy! So what did the toe end up being at, and did the sides match? I wasn't sure if they did some front end work right before selling it, but didn't align it after.
The Service Tech came into the waiting area, asked if I was Wiley; when I said yes, he asked if "someone" had been messing with (his term, not mine) the front suspension for some reason? I told him that was certainly possible; I'm the third owner; though if anything was out of whack it was inherited from the first two owners. While I know what toe in/out and camber are, I'm pretty fuzzy on castor and would have to look it up. Me? Adjust any of 'em? Don't have the slightest idea what to turn, pound on, or pray to under there to adjust any of them. :D

Don't recall what the exact numbers were; the ST had a color coded (red for out of spec and green for in spec) print out from his alignment machine showing all the "before adjustment", "after adjustment", and "spec range" numbers. My camber #s were all green (y), castor #s were red (the ST said just barely out of spec--adjusted things just a little to bring 'em back in spec), and the toe in #s were all red (ST said it was adjusted as far "in" as it could be. Said he made some minor adjustment to the rears as well (learn something new everyday as I didn't know RSs had any R alignment settings).

Normally I get all my tires and wheels from the Tire Rack, but as the car is setting at the dealer (25mi away from me) and transporting two 245/35/19 Conti Xtreme Contacts that far on my Can Am Spyder seemed more adventure than I cared for, and the dealer said they'd beat anyone's price by a dollar----I ordered the tires from them.

Glad the next four days in my neck 'o the woods are supposed to be sunny and nice---so I can at least get around on the Spyder, and not have to use GULP :eek: "Dial A Ride". :LOL:
 

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I’ve never figured out why someone would do that.
I run straight up on my fronts and just a slight amount of toe in in the rear. Made my car significantly better to drive on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got a call from one of the Service Reps at my dealer this PM. Said my tires were in, and wanted to know if they were supposed to mount and balance them for me, as a couple of the other SRs [none of whom I'd dealt with, or spoken to last Friday :confused:] had said they weren't to mount and balance them for me?

Sadly :confused:, at the urging of Satan :devilish:, I lapsed into an unChristianly line of thought; thinking; the :censored: belts are sticking through the old/new tires, according to you guys the :censored: car is a veritable "death ☠ trap" if driven. How the :censored: am I supposed to drive it and the new tires somewhere else to have the tires mounted and balanced? Scraping together the very small bit of maturity and self control I have left, I said instead; "Yes, please mount and balance them at your earliest convenience, and call me when it's done". :LOL: Jeez!
 

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In my experience with several awd performance cars, a zero toe on all 4 corners is a good general set up on almost all awd cars. I actually prefer just a very slight toe- in ...0.03 degree (unweighted - no driver in car) on each corner. The RS will lose 0.01 or 0.02 degrees of toe with driver seated....so result is nearly zero toe when driving.

A performance alignment with a small toe-out (-0.05) can work will, but much more can cause instability and "wandering" at high speeds....think end of straightaway at 100mph. Bc the RS has a vectoring rear diff, there is less need for negative chamber in most situations, IMO. Another way to aid the turn-in is by adding a slightly stiffer rear sway bar (+ 2mm).
 

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I agree for a competition car...maybe overkill on the street.

Where I live most shops won't do this and the few (race shops) that do, use wts to simulate driver due to insurance regulations.
 
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