Ford Focus RS Forum banner
Cancel

front control arm install

6117 Views 32 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  NISMO_IX, 
big jim
i searched and couldn't find a whole lot about installing new front control arms (only swapping bushings). 1 guy said it was really easy...but no details. anyone done this? i will be giving it a shot tomorrow at the auto skills center on base.
they have an alignment machine there too, and one of the techs can assist me with that.
you tube doesn't have much either. just the standard focus; which the ac compressor needs to be dropped. i don't think that is the case with the RS. thanks.
Reply
Save
Like
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Barroux
Reviving this thread as I need to replace my LH balljoint. Based on other posts/threads I fear the control arm assembly offered by my mechanic might not be RS specific and as such may have the wrong balljoint (will call later today to confirm brand/PN of replacement assembly in an attempt to confirm fitment).

Anybody else successfully used the 2016+ Escape 2.0 balljoint as per suggestion in the posts above from @Saempersun ? If so which one did you use and was it indeed the same geometry/angle as stock? There are many options to choose from including premium and supreme options, many of which are showing a reference to original part numbers starting with the CV6 prefix… I’d rather change both balljoints (bushings are fine according to mechanic) if I can instead of both control arm assy. Plus the OE arms seem to be twice as much as the one proposed by my mechanic (said they were OE quality equivalent).

2016 FORD ESCAPE 2.0L L4 Turbocharged Ball Joint | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
Reply
Save
Like
B
Barroux said:
Reviving this thread as I need to replace my LH balljoint. Based on other posts/threads I fear the control arm assembly offered by my mechanic might not be RS specific and as such may have the wrong balljoint (will call later today to confirm brand/PN of replacement assembly in an attempt to confirm fitment).

Anybody else successfully used the 2016+ Escape 2.0 balljoint as per suggestion in the posts above from @Saempersun ? If so which one did you use and was it indeed the same geometry/angle as stock? There are many options to choose from including premium and supreme options, many of which are showing a reference to original part numbers starting with the CV6 prefix… I’d rather change both balljoints (bushings are fine according to mechanic) if I can instead of both control arm assy. Plus the OE arms seem to be twice as much as the one proposed by my mechanic (said they were OE quality equivalent).

2016 FORD ESCAPE 2.0L L4 Turbocharged Ball Joint | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
Click to expand...
I have a set of the MOOG K500346 and K500347 ball joints here, but have not had a chance to start the replacement. I should be doing the job in the next week or 2 and I'll follow up.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Barroux
Biznatch said:
I have a set of the MOOG K500346 and K500347 ball joints here, but have not had a chance to start the replacement. I should be doing the job in the next week or 2 and I'll follow up.
Click to expand...
I’m tempted to either delay my appointment and wait for your feedback or just buy them also and just hope for the best.

Still need to talk to my mechanic but really affraid the control arm he found in his database will not have the proper ball joint. OE control arms are 300$cad/ea!!

Typically how bad is sliding the balljoint out of the control arm extremity in northern climate/rust prone areas? If it’s going to turn in a nightmare I might as well just go for full OE replacement arms (or equivalent from MotorCraft) and not worry about them for another 6 years!!


Edit : called my dealer’s parts department, they quoted P/N MCS2381 / MCS2382 at 518$cad/ea for the front control arm assemblies based on my VIN. Cant find any reference to those P/N online though…

@big jim likely used P/N MCF2381 / MCF2382 from RockAuto (replacement for G1FZ3078A/G1FZ3079A according to parts description) based on his feedback from the "What did you do to your FoRS Today" thread (trying to regroup the info here so it doesn’t get lost in the longer/not dedicated thread). Both of these P/N from MotorCraft are different in RockAuto’s menus for other focus trims (base, ST, etc.) which is a good sign that they may be indeed the unique configuration needed for the RS (would be also backed by his successful installation and alignment, although P/N has not been confirmed since he could not find order confirmation email). Tasca has the same P/N as RockAuto listed for the RS but somehow stating they also fit different Focus trims (tempted to assume this information from Tasca is incorrect about fitting other RS trims).

Even more undecided on which part to get/order in either full assembly or balljoint only! Still need to call my mechanic which may make decision easier based on his feedback (or not)!
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
big jim
2
Barroux said:
Even more undecided on which part to get/order in either full assembly or balljoint only! Still need to call my mechanic which may make decision easier based on his feedback (or not)!
Click to expand...
give rockauto a call...and confirm P/N MCF2381 / MCF2382 are correct.
MOTORCRAFT

Go to RockAuto Home Page


More Information for MOTORCRAFT MCF2382
{Alternate Inventory Numbers: G1FZ3079A}
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
Barroux
2
My mechanic was confident he had the right part so I kept my appointment yesterday as planned to give it a try. Turns out his system had the right part listed for the RS, we used P/N CV6Z-3079-F (LH LCA assy) which seems to be listed as an Escape lower control arm everywhere on the internet. Everything was identical in comparison to original part so we proceeded with the replacement. Also supports the conclusion from @Saempersun that the balljoints are the same as the 2013+ escapes (@Biznatch you should have no issue with the Moog balljoints I believe based on the fact we just used the whole Escape LCA).

The RH LCA looks like it would be CV6Z-3078-G based on internet listings, but for now we only replaced the LH which had the balljoint pretty loose (could be from when I went off track and hit the packed snow bank sideways pretty hard at an ice driving event a few winters ago), the RH side ball joint was rock solid still and the bushings were showing no sign of wear/concern, so we left it alone for now!

The whole assembly was 175$cad up here so pretty cheap for the whole LCA compared to dealer price for RS specific ones of 500$+cad.

Had the car aligned too, will need to compare to @big jim alignment sheet when I have some time and other threads about alignment. They recommended some less toe in front if I remember right. Car definitely feels better now, that balljoint was pretty loose and alignment was way overdue, the car seems to track straight and not be all over the place like it used to

Edit: that receipt has the correct P/N listed but the description is wrong, it’s in French but it shouldn't read “Droit” (Right), it should read “gauche” (Left).
White Sleeve Font Line Material property


Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Slope
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 2
big jim
Barroux said:
Had the car aligned too, will need to compare to @big jim alignment sheet when I have some time and other threads about alignment. They recommended some less toe in front if I remember right.
Click to expand...
my alignment specs are on page 1 (cpu monitor). i don't go OCD with alignments. as long as it's within tolerance and the car drives straight and feels good...then i'm happy. the tech who did mine did make a couple of adjustments though...on the LF tie-rod and on the rear subframe.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
T
All,

I’ve dug around the various ball joint listings and wanted to confirm the below ball joint only replacements have worked for those installed and all the suspension geometries stayed true? Some comments about different caster angles and want to make sure everything stays in spec. Also any long term issues changing the rivets to bolts both daily driving and HPDE / on track?

thank you.


www.hardrace.com

FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - Q0026 | HARDRACE GLOBAL

FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - Q0026 - OE STYLE *Focus Mk3 : For RS Use 2 PCS/SET
www.hardrace.com www.hardrace.com
Reply
Save
Like
Saempersun
It looks very similar to the stock ones in the terms of geometry. But nevertheless after installation the alignment should be done.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
T
All,

One more question, there’s a lot of discussion about what replacement ball joints are specific to the RS but are the control arms themselves interchangeable between all the focus models? I might have to change a control arm but already have aftermarket ball joints and bushings for the arm. Was hoping to not have to find an RS specific arm if I’m swapping all the other items on it.

thanks!
Reply
Save
Like
B
timsemeryuk said:
All,

One more question, there’s a lot of discussion about what replacement ball joints are specific to the RS but are the control arms themselves interchangeable between all the focus models? I might have to change a control arm but already have aftermarket ball joints and bushings for the arm. Was hoping to not have to find an RS specific arm if I’m swapping all the other items on it.

thanks!
Click to expand...
Is it worth going through all that work to find out they are slightly different? If you got the ball joints for the Kuga, you could probably use that arm. But for me, I'd go with the stock RS arms, which are surprisingly inexpensive new.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
H
Biznatch said:
Is it worth going through all that work to find out they are slightly different? If you got the ball joints for the Kuga, you could probably use that arm. But for me, I'd go with the stock RS arms, which are surprisingly inexpensive new.
Click to expand...
Costs must have gone up quick. I’m seeing $300-$400 US per control arm at the moment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply
Save
Like
big jim
hyperlite03 said:
Costs must have gone up quick. I’m seeing $300-$400 US per control arm at the moment.
Click to expand...
of course...it's the biden inflation rate. i'm seeing $290 on rock auto.
they used to be $120...when i got them.
RSs are getting more rare...and rock auto supply is obviously going down.

RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.
www.rockauto.com
Reply
Save
Like
  • Wow
Reactions: 1
NISMO_IX
Time to buy a donor car and store it.... Imagine trying to replace parts in 10 years from now, with all the electric cars coming out by then.

It would be a great business to own a shop that specializes in making replacement pieces that manufacturers stopped making. Example, 240Z dash vents can be 3D printed and look very close to stock.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Ford Focus RS Forum
FocusRS.org is the largest forum community to discuss the 2016+ Focus RS. Join to talk about performance, specs, reviews and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Focus RS Discussions Focus RS Purchasing Focus RS Performance Focus RS TroubleShooting Focus RS Photos and Videos
Top