[big jim]

i searched and couldn't find a whole lot about installing new front control arms (only swapping bushings). 1 guy said it was really easy...but no details. anyone done this? i will be giving it a shot tomorrow at the auto skills center on base.
they have an alignment machine there too, and one of the techs can assist me with that.
you tube doesn't have much either. just the standard focus; which the ac compressor needs to be dropped. i don't think that is the case with the RS. thanks.

 

[morbid]

Have you looked at the workshop manual? Looks like it's in section 204-01. Appears to be fairly straightforward, except the passenger side that needs the a/c compressor moved out of the way.... though maybe someone can chime in to say if that's really needed.

 

[big jim]

Have you looked at the workshop manual? Looks like it's in section 204-01. Appears to be fairly straightforward, except the passenger side that needs the a/c compressor moved out of the way.... though maybe someone can chime in to say if that's really needed.

no...i don't have the manual

 

[morbid]

I'd grab the "linked" one... but all the variants of the shop manual are here:

Workshop Manual????

I have these and also the official RS workshop manual from HELM. There are a number of differences between the 2 manuals. More info in the Helm, but is it worth $172 HELM charges? That all depends if the extra pages, fast sorting, CD-ROM access, legal copy, latest images, etc. is worth it to...

www.focusrs.org

 

[axelr]

Done it. Never touched the AC. It’s not difficult at all to remove and reinstall the arms. You need a hydraulic press and a disc saw for the bushings so it’s a good thing you do this in a workshop.

 

[big jim]

Done it. Never touched the AC. It’s not difficult at all to remove and reinstall the arms. You need a hydraulic press and a disc saw for the bushings so it’s a good thing you do this in a workshop.

great...thanks. so you didn't touch any other part to get the arms out?
you think it's about 1 hour total...for both arms swapped?
i have new oem arms with the new bushings.

 

[nicklulu]

You're not going poly on the bushing?

 

[big jim]

You're not going poly on the bushing?

i might have poly's added later on. i'm really just worried about getting the current ball joints swapped out cuz i got "the clunk" happening down there.

 

[GmpaJimj]

got "the clunk" happening down there.

 

[axelr]

great...thanks. so you didn't touch any other part to get the arms out?
you think it's about 1 hour total...for both arms swapped?
i have new oem arms with the new bushings.

Well you have to remove the undertray, the lower strut bar… all straightforward. One hour is maybe a little optimistic if it’s your first time, but maybe two?. It may be mildly challenging to disengage/re-engage the arm at the outer joint. I use a jack to lift the strut through the disk rotor from it’s 6 oclock and a long pry bar. I also did it alone on jack stands so it’s definitely doable. You say the bushing are already on new arms? That’s good bc swapping the bushings takes longer than the arms. I hope you have the rear ones? I mean the front ones but at the rear of the TCA? These are the most important to keep the wheels where they should be. Second most important are the inner TCA front.

Edit: this, in “street” trim unles you are willing to tolerate a lot of road / tire rolling noise: Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings

People should do the front bushing long before thinking about camber plate. Literally do this instead and keep the stock camber.

 

[big jim]

Well you have to remove the undertray, the lower strut bar… all straightforward. One hour is maybe a little optimistic if it’s your first time, but maybe two?. It may be mildly challenging to disengage/re-engage the arm at the outer joint. I use a jack to lift the strut through the disk rotor from it’s 6 oclock and a long pry bar. I also did it alone on jack stands so it’s definitely doable. You say the bushing are already on new arms? That’s good bc swapping the bushings takes longer than the arms. I hope you have the rear ones? I mean the front ones but at the rear of the TCA? These are the most important to keep the wheels where they should be. Second most important are the inner TCA front.

Edit: this, in “street” trim unles you are willing to tolerate a lot of road / tire rolling noise: Ford Focus Mk3 Inc ST (2011+) Front Control Arm Anti-Lift & Caster Offset Rear Bushings

hi & thanks again.
yes...new oem control arms that comes with front / rear bushing and the outer ball joint.
by lower strut bar...do you mean the sway bar? if so...can't i just disconnect the sway bar end link?

 

[big jim]

You're not going poly on the bushing?

rear bushing on the front control arm is $486 for the pair (powerflex)
i'll be sticking with the oem 😆

 

[RSt~n~peace]

no...i don't have the manual

If your able to use the base auto skills you have access to just about any manual. Go to militaryonesource.com (create an account if you don’t have one) login, and find the mwr digital library under recreation. They have all the Chilton’s manuals, which is almost exactly the same as the workshop manual. I use it on my phone or tablet.

 

[big jim]

i must say...swapping the control arms was one of the easier jobs on this car. took me little over 2 hrs. i took my time and took pics. it was actually a smooth & enjoyable experience.
old oem control arm out...

destroyed ball joint. both of them looked like this and had a ton of play

the old large rear bushing

new oem control arm in...

auto skills center has the alignment machine as well. one of the techs handled this part

looks like a christmas tree....success!

well the clunk is finally gone and i feel much better. car feels a little tighter and smoother and no more clunk.
i would imagine that powerflex bushings would make quite a difference. maybe a couple of years from now i'll go that route.
only cost me $120 to use the lift / tools / and alignment. probly saved $300

 

[Biznatch]

Darn, I was hoping you were able to just get the ball joints to replace. Pretty sure I have the same issue, but I don't want to have to reinstall my powerflex bushings on a new arm. That was a pain in the ass. I believe there are aftermarket ball joints available, but I'll have to look into that again.

 

[axelr]

I believe there are aftermarket ball joints available, but I'll have to look into that again.

There is, I forgot where I saw them though.

 

[big jim]

Darn, I was hoping you were able to just get the ball joints to replace. Pretty sure I have the same issue, but I don't want to have to reinstall my powerflex bushings on a new arm. That was a pain in the ass. I believe there are aftermarket ball joints available, but I'll have to look into that again.

i hear ya. if i had uprated bushes then i would have been on that boat too. but if you just have oem bushes...better to just get the whole new arm with new bushes. only $120 each arm.

 

[Saempersun]

I believe there are aftermarket ball joints available, but I'll have to look into that again.

You are right.
There's not much information about the proper ball joints for our cars. Some catalogues says that one SKU fits all the focuses (like regular ones, ST and RS) - even some reputable manufacturers' like TRW&Lemfoerder - but it's a lie! I had to found it by myself. At first I bought a spare ball joint for a regular Focus TRW JBJ1247, it was quite similar to ours but had clearly different angle.

Spoiler: TRW JBJ127 - do not buy this

The good news are - our suspension is pretty much unified with Kuga mk2 (EUDM)/ Escape mk3 (USDM) vehicles. The original ball joint marking has CV61 prefix, that's another proof.
So then I bought a Kuga-fit ball joint and it was just the same as original one. The p/n are Sidem 3184 LH/ 3185 RH (but not 3880 LH/ 3881 RH).

Spoiler: SIDEM 3185 - better take this one

The workshop manual does not offer any instructions about ball joint replacement, but it's just an easy and common operation. You'll need to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle, drill out the rivets and then replace the joint. The aftermarket parts usually comes with the bolts and nuts, as you can see.

tldr: if you are looking for a ball joint, lurk for Kuga2/Escape parts, not Focus ones.

 

[Biznatch]

You are right.
There's not much information about the proper ball joints for our cars. Some catalogues says that one SKU fits all the focuses (like regular ones, ST and RS) - even some reputable manufacturers' like TRW&Lemfoerder - but it's a lie! I had to found it by myself. At first I bought a spare ball joint for a regular Focus TRW JBJ1247, it was quite similar to ours but had clearly different angle.

Spoiler: TRW JBJ127 - do not buy this

View attachment 356833

The good news are - our suspension is pretty much unified with Kuga mk2 (EUDM)/ Escape mk3 (USDM) vehicles. The original ball joint marking has CV61 prefix, that's another proof.
So then I bought a Kuga-fit ball joint and it was just the same as original one. The p/n are Sidem 3184 LH/ 3185 RH (but not 3880 LH/ 3881 RH).

Spoiler: SIDEM 3185 - better take this one

View attachment 356834

The workshop manual does not offer any instructions about ball joint replacement, but it's just an easy and common operation. You'll need to disconnect the ball joint from the knuckle, drill out the rivets and then replace the joint. The aftermarket parts usually comes with the bolts and nuts, as you can see.

tldr: if you are looking for a ball joint, lurk for Kuga2/Escape parts, not Focus ones.

So you're saying you purchased/installed those ball joints with no issues? That's great news. Where did you order from, since I can only seem to find them from EU shops and I'm in the US.


I also found the other aftermarket Ball Joints I was thinking of from Hardrace, but now they have a not saying it doesn't fit the RS.... I don't remember seeing that last time, and I was looking at the set that slightly changed the angle for lowered cars.
hardrace ball joint

 

[Saempersun]

Yep, that's right, I installed them. Well, I got the joint at a local parts store, so this experience doesn't seem relevant for you
I can suggest you choose something here 2016 FORD ESCAPE 2.0L L4 Turbocharged Ball Joint | RockAuto
Note that these parts have mostly CV6Z prefix.

Rockauto also offers some Moog ball joints for RS, but beware - they actually should go for regular Focus, not the RS. Plz see the F1FZ* p/ns - that's the regular Focus prefix.

I can show you the pic of the original LH ball joint (unfortunately I didn't take picture of the reverse side), you can see it has CV61* p/n on it

Spoiler: the pic (sorry for the mess, lol)

As for the hardrace I'd say this one should fit FRONT LOWER BALL JOINT - Q0026 | HARDRACE GLOBAL