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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just installed my Racing Brake OEM Brembo rebuild kit with the stainless steel pistons and high temp dust seals.

As many who track have probably noticed the OEM seals can perish quite easily (that's my pic below, after 10 or so track days).



Anyways a little review on the parts;

1) Stainless Pistons

These are nicely made with an almost mirror finish on post of the pistons surface. They are pretty light but still feel solid. They fit the OEM caliper perfectly.



2) Seals



The inner seals just seem like standard inner seals and perfectly adequate. The high temp dust seals are nice and well made. They fit the pistons and caliper snugly and seem to be stretchy enough for the stroke of the pistons.

Installation is easy, and took us maybe 3-4 hours (we were being leisurely)

Tools Needed:

Blue thread lock
New Crush Washers for the brake lines
1L of your brake fluid of choice
Brake Cleaner
Rags
Torque wrench
Some way to bleed the brakes
Some way to lift the car. If you are using jackstands I suggest having 4 so you can take all the wheels off the car and easily bleed all the brakes. Although I have bled the system before by jacking one corner at a time...
Tools to take off the wheels.
13 mm socket or wrench
Punches 8mm and 2-3mm
Hammer, a recoil-less one is wonderful in the enclosed wheel well space.
Some way to return the pistons and pads back. You can do this manually by pinching the pads towards the outside.
Some way to depress the brake pedal (not do this after returning the pistons and removing the brake pads). I used two pieces of wood, one to spread the load on the seat and another abutted against the first piece of wood and the brake pedal to form a T. This worked perfectly.
16 mm socket or wrench
18mm socket and breaker bar
Small flat head screw driver
Hooked dentist style pick
Compressed air and blow gun or tools to pry the pistons out.
Cardboard roughly the size of the brake pads of various thicknesses
Trim tools

Procedure
1) Jack the car up and remove the wheels and front brake pads.
2) Lock the brake pedal in place to block the flow from the reservoir and the master cylinder.
3) Undo the banjo bolt holding the brake lines onto the caliper (16mm/27Nm).



4) Undo the caliper bolts (18mm/115Nm + blue loctite).
5) Turn the caliper round to dump out as much fluid as possible.
6) Remove the old dust boots.
1. We found the easiest way to do this is by putting a small flat head screw driver against the side, in one of the indents on the seal, pushing in hard and levering on the edge of the caliper or a trim tool so the lever arm towards the seal is short.







7) Pull out the pistons.
1. We screwed this up and just pried the pistons out on their lip after messing up the compressed air method. The correct way is to blow air into the brake line inlet (bring a rag) and have all the pistons come out evenly (using a spacer between the pistons) until they are all almost all the way out. Then remove the spacer and pull out the pistonsv.




8) Remove the old internal oil seals
1. We used a dental pick style tool. They should come out quite easily.



9) Clean!
1. Turn the caliper to dump out any remaining brake fluid. Clean the bores with a bunch of brake cleaner. Make sure there is no brake fluid left as the high temp dust seals cant get it contact with brake fluid or the will perish prematurely.



10) Grease and install the seals
1. Just hold a bit of grease between your finger and spin the seal round, then push it into the bore and make sure it is sat correctly.







11) Grease and install the pistons.
1. Grease the sides of the pistons and push them into the bores. Don't push them in all the way!








12) Install the dust seals
1. Slip the inside of dust seals around the neck of the pistons. Then push the pistons down while pushing down on the seal. Make sure the dust seal sits on the raised portion around the bore and push it down around this raised portion. I made this little tool to press the pistons or piston seal down. A flat piece of wood should also work.









13) The calipers are now ready to be reinstalled which is just the inverse from step 4 upwards.
1. Might be worth doing this along with braided lines to save yourself bleeding the lines twice!




Benefits:

None that I have noticed, but then I only drove home from the workshop. The pads I had were also unexpectedly and almost dangerously worn, sadly I did not think to bring replacements. I did not want to test the brakes too much knowing that. Will report back after the next bad change to see if the pads held up to the track.
 

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Lot of work went into making that post but you have two major issues with your images

1) You have to use a "/" on the second/closing IMG tag, so "/IMG" wrapped in the square brackets

2) You can't use Google Drive share links as image sources, so even if you had #1 fixed they still won't work

You can take the images, edit your post, go to "Advanced" and use the "Manage Attachments" option to upload the pictures to the site and embed the images in line. It has a limit of 5 at a time, but you can do 5, save, re-redit and do another 5, and repeat until you get the images all working


** I'll help you out, give me about 10 mins and you can just edit your post with what i'm working on **
 

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@megator

Here you go man, just paste this into the "Edit" window for your post.. images are ready to go, no attaching necessary

https://gist.githubusercontent.com/MorningZ/0445158000813a79b70f59128c5f333c/raw/b24a49a07897bfbd26e1a0f48cfa6742e3a24345/brake_job.txt

If anyone ever needs to embed images from Google (either Google Photos or Google Drive), take the "share" link for it and enter it in the first textbox on this page, it takes about 10 seconds and then will give you an image link to use at the bottom of the page
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@megator

Here you go man, just paste this into the "Edit" window for your post.. images are ready to go, no attaching necessary

https://gist.githubusercontent.com/MorningZ/0445158000813a79b70f59128c5f333c/raw/b24a49a07897bfbd26e1a0f48cfa6742e3a24345/brake_job.txt

If anyone ever needs to embed images from Google (either Google Photos or Google Drive), take the "share" link for it and enter it in the first textbox on this page, it takes about 10 seconds and then will give you an image link to use at the bottom of the page
Thanks so much man! I tried to upload it to the site but for some reason I did not get an uplaod button. I could select an image from my HD but there was no OK or upload button...

Hope the guide helps some people! If you have questions don't hesitate to ask.
 

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I purchased the stainless pistons from racing brake for my ST with RS Brembos, but at the time they did not have the correct pistons... Had to return. In the meantime, I went full on BBK.
My reason for wanting the SUS pistons was to try and eliminate brake issues on track.
I was very hopeful this would work.
Good job on the write up.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great write-up. Subscribed for further results/feedback. I assume you purchased this kit with the added option of the blue seals?

https://www.racingbrake.com/Save-10-on-Ford-Focus-RS-Front-Caliper-Rebuild-Co-p/bf-42bsp.htm

Thanks!
Yeah thats the one! Pistons and seals fit like a glove. The hardest part was removing the old pistons. I suggest the air method as my old pistons are kinds messed with parts of the coating chipped off.

Have not yet braked in anger but will likely go to Spa Francochamps in two weekends. Not the heaviest braking track (check out zolder home of the double chicanes!) But has some high to low speed sections.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
 

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Yeah thats the one! Pistons and seals fit like a glove. The hardest part was removing the old pistons. I suggest the air method as my old pistons are kinds messed with parts of the coating chipped off.

Have not yet braked in anger but will likely go to Spa Francochamps in two weekends. Not the heaviest braking track (check out zolder home of the double chicanes!) But has some high to low speed sections.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

Excellent - look forward to your feedback from your track day. Thanks for confirming the parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What grease did you use on the pistons and internal seal? I've always used brake fluid when I've rebuilt calipers.
I used the supplied grease, otherwise there are special brake rebuild lubes (just search amazon or an equivalent).

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I used the supplied grease, otherwise there are special brake rebuild lubes (just search amazon or an equivalent).

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Was this the supplied grease? I bought this kit, yet no grease was supplied.

I'm trying to decide what's good to use for the seals, backs of the pads, and copper bushings (I bought from Damond). Would anyone have recommendations?


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Discussion Starter #17
Was this the supplied grease? I bought this kit, yet no grease was supplied.

I'm trying to decide what's good to use for the seals, backs of the pads, and copper bushings (I bought from Damond). Would anyone have recommendations?


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
You forgot a link or something for the grease.

Just search Amazon for brake assembly grease and that should be it.

For the rear bushes i would use some high temp lithium grease.

Backs of pads you can use anti-squeal grease. The fronts dont need it the rears only on specific surfaces you can get from the workshop manual.

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Thanks, I truly appreciate it. I was trying to ask if the lube in the picture was supplied in your kit, from RB...

I apologize that (it seems), that wasn't clear.

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Discussion Starter #19
So I sold my RS but before doing so I changed the brake pads. The "high temp" seals had already started to perish a bit after 2-3 trackdays (long stints). Not sure if this had anything to do with the sticky backing on the OEM pads.

Brake fade seemed to be reduced with the SS pistons.
 
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