[Sickflo_rs]

How many of you have holesaw'd the strut towers to gain access to the plates? If so what brace are you using? If not, how do you set your camber? Just... Uninstall, guess, re-install and check? It's what I've been doing but it's a pain in my ass and I'm wondering if I should commit to cutting stuff out.

 

[RSFTW]

Not sure if I'm understanding your question exactly or if this is relevant but I caught this video last night and part of the install was gaining access to the top of the towers.

 

[320icar]

I had a strut bar, so I used a 3” hole saw and used the circle in the strut tower as a guide. Was easy peasy.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0601/7921/8605/products/Ford-Focus-ST-Front-Front-Strut-Bar_600x600.jpg?v=1633384908

Can’t remember exactly what my specs are, but lowering springs and GC plates

 

[Hank]

I took my factory front strut tower bar to a local machine shop and they cut access holes for my MCS suspension. When I got home I used a hole saw to make room on the strut tower for full adjustment of the Vorshlag caster/camber plates.

Tons more pics and information can be found on my build page for the MCS suspension:
Hank's RS - MCS TT1 Suspension

 

[hyracer]

I used Hank's instructions and have the same coilovers. Just shove the coilover all the way in at the top to end up around -3.4 degrees camber. Most race tires require -3 to -5 camber to perform correctly. Because the factory struts have a large diameter spring you will never get much over -2.2 to -2.4 even if you enlarge the top hole. I'm assuming you have coilovers.

 

[Sickflo_rs]

Yeah I've had coils for a few years but have always had a hard time getting the alignment to my liking. It's not very alignment shop friendly when the whole strut assembly has to come out to adjust the top hat 0.1°

Guess I'm hole-sawing come spring time. Thanks guys. I was worried it wasn't going to look clean but hank did a killer job. Didn't realize I could hole saw the factory brace either so that's a bonus.

 

[White-RS2]

Get the adjustable lower arm bushes, which gives you just over +/- 1.5 degrees of adjustment.
Don’t butcher your metalwork unless it’s a full time race / rally machine

 

[Sickflo_rs]

Get the adjustable lower arm bushes, which gives you just over +/- 1.5 degrees of adjustment.
Don’t butcher your metalwork unless it’s a full time race / rally machine

Idk on Hanks post it hardly looks butchered, it looks damn near factory. Will look into those too but I already have the adjustable camber top plate so it's kinda redundant to get an offset bushing.. Powerflex says

"a replacement bushing that is 15% stiffer than the original bushing and provides +/- 0.5 degrees of on-car camber adjustment. Suitable for 14mm bolt."

Half a degree isn't enough for me unfortunately.

 

[White-RS2]

Idk on Hanks post it hardly looks butchered, it looks damn near factory. Will look into those too but I already have the adjustable camber top plate so it's kinda redundant to get an offset bushing.. Powerflex says

"a replacement bushing that is 15% stiffer than the original bushing and provides +/- 0.5 degrees of on-car camber adjustment. Suitable for 14mm bolt."

Half a degree isn't enough for me unfortunately.

In real life it was over 1.5 degrees on a lowered car (mine).
But that additional camber made the car feel rather dartie or directly instantaneous on steering wheel movement if that makes sense

 

[BigFatFlip]

I'm really curious as to why folks are having to cut their struts bars to be able to adjust camber? I understand having to do it for those with struts that have the adjustment knobs at the top but don't you just have to loosen the 3 mounting bolts in order to adjust camber?

I've had both the Ground Control and Vorshlag camber plates and have not had to cut my strut brace, granted the adjustment knob on my coilovers are at the bottom, so that has never been an issue.

 

[Biznatch]

I'm really curious as to why folks are having to cut their struts bars to be able to adjust camber? I understand having to do it for those with struts that have the adjustment knobs at the top but don't you just have to loosen the 3 mounting bolts in order to adjust camber?

I've had both the Ground Control and Vorshlag camber plates and have not had to cut my strut brace, granted the adjustment knob on my coilovers are at the bottom, so that has never been an issue.

Without cutting the top, how would you adjust camber while the car is on the alignment rack.... The crappy alignment shops around here charge 120$ and complain about adjusting the toe because of my aftermarket Massive toe arms. They won't even attempt to adjust the Massive rear camber arms. So they definitely wouldn't be jacking the car up and detach the front strut to adjust the camber (potentially multiple times).

 

[Sickflo_rs]

^ Exactly this. You can adjust the rebound off the bottom most likely but in order to gain access to the top hat of the strut (where it slides for camber) you either
A- Take the whole strut assembly out, set the top hat and re install, while subsequently hoping your left and right adjustments are matching -Aka-Guess and check (but how do I check without the alignment rack at home) or
B- Cut a hole in the enclosed strut tower to allow access from the top while it stays installed, making it easier for a tech to adjust and easier for me to have 2 presets marked to use.

Add ontop I live in the middle of nowhere so a decent alignment shop is a ~6hr round trip. So it's kinda a one and done type thing. I just wish they were already opened like most other cars I've modded before.

 

[DeltaT]

I cut my OEM strut brace with a 3" hole saw as well, then cleaned it up with a half-round file, then painted it. Came out looking factory:

I have the GC camber plates, and with it on the lift I can loosen the 3 bolts, put a socket on the KW V3 center bolt and move the top of the strut in and out no problem. I showed the alignment place and they had no problem doing the same to get -3 degrees camber on each side.

Once you put the plastic tray back on (a 2 min job to put on or off), you can't even tell it's modified.

Without cutting it you would be much more limited in movement range for the top of strut by the stock strut brace.

 

[BigFatFlip]

Without cutting the top, how would you adjust camber while the car is on the alignment rack.

^ Exactly this. You can adjust the rebound off the bottom most likely but in order to gain access to the top hat of the strut (where it slides for camber) you either

Sorry, I'm genuinely just trying to understand how since I've taken my car to get aligned in about half a dozen places by now without having to do cut the strut brace.

Now, full disclosure, I have not sat there and watched any of the shops align my car, but I also haven't had any of them complain or suggest cutting the strut tower brace.

Let's take a look at this Vorshlag pic below as an example. When I installed my coilovers w/ the camber plates, in order to get them at an acceptable enough camber to drive it to the alignment shop, I loosened the 3 top nuts (circled in red), then tapped/nudged the top of my wheel/tire until they both were at an even distance from the fender, then I torqued the top nuts down to lock the camber setting.

The way I see it, when the top nuts are loosened, the red camber adjustment plate is still able to slide along the slot (green arrows) to set your camber without having to come out of your strut tower (represented by blue) or the strut tower brace coming off (represented by the black). This was my same experience when I installed the GC plates on a previous set-up.

If you really wanted to use the little etched markings on the top as a visual, then sure, you would need to cut a hole to be able to see it, but this should really only be used as a "guide" with your actual camber setting being read by the laser/alignment rack.

Am I missing something here?

 

[Sickflo_rs]

My car is in storage till mid May but pretty sure the way the pedders system is (I can't speak to others and maybe I'm mistaken) is I cannot access the allen bolts that allow the slide for camber. They're only accessible from the top and the only way to get in there while also installed on the car is with holes (I think)

I could use an upgrade though... 🤔

 

[BigFatFlip]

My car is in storage till mid May but pretty sure the way the pedders system is (I can't speak to others and maybe I'm mistaken) is I cannot access the allen bolts that allow the slide for camber. They're only accessible from the top and the only way to get in there while also installed on the car is with holes (I think)

I could use an upgrade though... 🤔

Ah, thank you, that totally makes sense now! Damn, that really sucks, unfortunate design choice for sure.

 

[Sickflo_rs]

Ah, thank you, that totally makes sense now! Damn, that really sucks, unfortunate design choice for sure.

And this is why I asked! I had no idea the vorshlag kit was designed differently but I still see the use as @DeltaT said, without cutting it limits the range the strut can adjust. Glad I have the forum to get the knowledge without trial and error.

 

[DeltaT]

I think that, if you have the Pedders, you could cut the OEM strut brace with a 3.5" hole saw and still maintain structural integrity, while having a large enough hole to access the Allen bolts and to adjust the strut.

 

[misterchonger]

Ah, thank you, that totally makes sense now! Damn, that really sucks, unfortunate design choice for sure.

You have Ohlins right? Ohlins with the Vorshlag plates is the ideal setup for not having to modify the tower. This is because you've eliminated the two reasons to cut the tower -

1. hard to access camber/caster screws
2. comp/rebound adjustment shafts sticking up above the narrow tower hole that will make contact with the hole when making aggressive camber caster settings.

 

[FORZDA 2]

Sorry, I'm genuinely just trying to understand how since I've taken my car to get aligned in about half a dozen places by now without having to do cut the strut brace.

Now, full disclosure, I have not sat there and watched any of the shops align my car, but I also haven't had any of them complain or suggest cutting the strut tower brace.

Let's take a look at this Vorshlag pic below as an example. When I installed my coilovers w/ the camber plates, in order to get them at an acceptable enough camber to drive it to the alignment shop, I loosened the 3 top nuts (circled in red), then tapped/nudged the top of my wheel/tire until they both were at an even distance from the fender, then I torqued the top nuts down to lock the camber setting.

View attachment 365321

The way I see it, when the top nuts are loosened, the red camber adjustment plate is still able to slide along the slot (green arrows) to set your camber without having to come out of your strut tower (represented by blue) or the strut tower brace coming off (represented by the black). This was my same experience when I installed the GC plates on a previous set-up.

If you really wanted to use the little etched markings on the top as a visual, then sure, you would need to cut a hole to be able to see it, but this should really only be used as a "guide" with your actual camber setting being read by the laser/alignment rack.

Am I missing something here?

Looks like these are the best setup for camber plates. IF the extra height fits your goals. The SCCA Solo classing rules don’t allow cutting the upper strut bodywork. I use the adjustable camber bushings on the lower control arm pivots in both the front and rear pivot locations. The rear pivot bushing can adjust caster as well.