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@HiluxSR5
Had you thought about doing a starlight headliner while you had it out? I always thought they looked kinda cool.
More weight < Shiny lights +5Hp
That would be cool! Rolls meets RS... Could add massage chairs and chilled champagne storage while you’re at it..
 

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Discussion Starter #64
I had considered some kind of Recaro themed headliner, but didn't even think of the Starlight one. Either way, I wanted it to be done within a few days, and knew there is no chance of getting materials for either of those locally. Maybe I'll save that idea if I redo a headliner in one of the other cars
 

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Discussion Starter #65
Couple more miscellaneous things to do. First, I decided to redesign the dummy ABS pump mounting. I had previously designed it for the red 2018 to work with the battery box and tuck as far out of sight as possible. This was nice for packaging, but meant swapping the connectors was a 20 minute job, taking out the airbox, battery, battery box, and the pump itself. This new type will mount a group 35 battery sideways, and will be the only thing to remove to swap pumps.

The ideal solution would doubling the connectors with a switch to choose between, but the SE pump connector was very different, and I'm not sure how everything would react, unless I switched all 12 or so wires. A project for another time.

Another little difference, the RS strut brace is double walled, and much stiffer than the SE, though either fit fine. Can also start to remount the doors - another item that's been taking up space. Once it start looking like a car again you can feel a sense of accomplishment.

All of the interior trim and dash bits needed to be taken apart and cleaned by hand to remove glass shards, and a myriad of dirt that came in from having no windshield. Even the cluster somehow had glass in it.

Brand new trim retainers for the windshield. A nice feeling to install brand new trim. Also, for some reason these retainers, and the trim that covers them are considered RS specific. Different number, different price. But I can see no difference whatsoever.

And finally, a complete windshield. It's been months I've had to cover the RS with a tarp, enough of that.

Next time, the continuation of the Recaro seat wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Another thing I wanted to do previously but never got around to is wiring a timed relay to automatically change the drive mode and stability control upon startup. I took apart the switch and traced the 3 wires needed. Don't have the materials for this yet, so for now they just run down to an easy access spot.

Carpets in, which surprisingly were different. That lateral floor brace the SE has interfered with the under carpet hard foam, so I had to cut some out.

And a moment I've been waiting for, even though there is no reason to be anxious, first startup! Took a couple tries as I forgot to fully plug in the fuel pump relay in back. Runs as expected, with a bunch of codes for airbags and other things not yet connected. So let's see if we can remedy that.

First airbag hurdle is the passenger detection bladder. I'm going to try and use the SE one so I don't need to take apart the RS seats. Just plugging it in, and sitting on it does switch the passenger light on and off. Also, it looks like a screaming robot, or Papyrus so that's good.

I removed this high tensile fabric support on the Evo seat, cut a small hole for the tube, and sild the bladder inside. This should allow it to function in the same manner as it did originally. Again, testing shows it turns on and off when sitting down. It should be noted I added some gorilla tape around the cut hole to prevent fraying.

Next, we have the actual seat airbags themselves. From what I read about airbag activation function, the 1ohm difference between recommended resistors for the Evo vs Focus deletes should not make a difference. I cut the connectors from the Focus seat, and soldered them on to match. When plugging the system in, I'm still getting an airbag warning light, but a scan shows it's for other items still missing and not the airbag itself, so that seems ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Now the seat heaters were a more difficult task. Without dumping all the wiring diagrams, I'll lay out the basics.

The Evo system uses a 3 position switch that changes the circuit of the upper and lower heater from series (lo) to parallel (hi) depending on desired heat. In hi the system is also run through thermostat found in the heater assembly. So in the end, it has only 3 wires - ground, hi + thermostat, and lo.

The Focus seats use a very different system. The HVAC system sends a request signal to a heater controller which is mounted under the seat. This controller then sends consistent power to the heater assembly, the heaters also have a thermostat, but it is wired directly back to the control unit. So the controller measures the thermostat output, and switches the heaters on and off according to the request, hi, mid, lo.

Now, I'm sure you could just switch the heater mats, and problem solved, or even rewire the Evo thermostat to feed back to the controller. Both of those options required opening the seats which is not so fun. Since I, and everyone I know who would be in this car only uses heaters in hi or off, I made it work another way.

The Focus harness has two plugs for the mats, but we only need the square one. Cut out the yellow-blue and either of the black-white wires. Then on the Evo side join the blue and black wires together, and leave the yellow separate. Yellow then goes to yellow-black, and the paired wires go to black-white.

What this does is send a consistent power through the hi + thermostat circuit of the Evo heaters which is able to self regulate. The Focus controller never sees a temperature cutoff signal, and just keeps providing power. This means that whichever seat heat setting is selected on the HVAC it will be on hi, until turned off. Tested the system a few times, and everything works as expected so far.

With that, I can attach the nest of wires under both seats and put them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Yes, I read that thread before I started this. Given the more similar construction of these seats to the Euro ones, it should work properly.

With the interior finished, and to solve the airbag light, the rest of the doors and body panels can go on. Now setting the door adjustment is typically an easy process, just loosen the hinge bolts, pivot, and check. And in this case it's no different - except that one of the two bolts is accessed from the inside, and quite deep in the dash! Why why why 😪

Anyway, with that completed fenders go on, and headlights. Now begins the arduous process of setting panel gaps. I found it especially challenging here as the door and fender do not have an even gap the whole length of the seam. 3mm at the top, 3mm at the bottom, but 2mm in the middle? I guess that's why the gaps are so big, so this is less noticeable.

A bit of fine adjustment to the hood latching was necessary, which normally is done at the latch, or striker. No adjustment at all here, so we use the "large hammer" method. Same result, just need to be very careful not to stress the radiator.

For the front bumper cover, I do intend to buy a new one along with the various brackets that surround it, but funds are low after all this, and the whole package is over $1200. This one is still functional, so it will have a bit of the drifter look to it at least till summer comes around. Using some thin aluminum, plastic weld, rivets, and seam sealer I was able to make it look mostly presentable. Might paint the rivets afterward to hide them a bit more.

Feels bad to put this brand new fog light into the stitched bumper. It does fit though.

Bumper fits as expected, and looks good enough for now. Again, more adjustment was needed to get even, small gaps, but this time it was my own fault. I should have replaced the upper radiator support, it is still slightly bent. Again, there is a way to deal with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Final fitment is good, and the bumper feels very solid. Well, as solid as it can given how thin this plastic is.

An aside, I wanted a way to activate the starter without using the push to start button. Both because my clutch adjustments may have put the safety switch out of range, and as an emergency way to move the car. This large brown-green wire is the starter lead, just jump it to 12v and the starter comes to life. I'll wire it to a switch inside.

And lastly, the new battery location. Had to cut down the box, and make new tie downs, and a couple other small changes. Fits much better with the dummy ABS pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Here is a little side project since to celebrate the car's basic heritage. I never liked the design of the RS or ST side skirts, too swoopy for my taste. The simple base models look better to me. However the really kick up at the rear and wouldn't flow well into the RS back bumper. Now I know this will not be for everyone, and likely some will consider it downright ugly, so be warned 😅

I cut off the last quarter of the RS skirts, and will attempt to graft them onto the SE ones. This actually turned out to be easier than expected as they have an identical profile at the upper edge. This made it easy to match up. Just sitting over top like a skin it fits reasonably well.

I carefully matched the cutouts to recess the small section and make them flush. Underneath, I made a curved aluminum plate which gets both glued and riveted. Definitely don't want any flex in this area if I ever decide to paint and smooth over it with filler. The tape template method helped make an identical shape on the other side.

Cutting the material is a messy affair, tiny, static charged fibers go everywhere.

Finished results look ok for now. I'm going to run them bi-coloured like this for a while to see how I feel, and may fully paint them at a later date.
 

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For the front bumper cover, I do intend to buy a new one along with the various brackets that surround it, but funds are low after all this, and the whole package is over $1200. This one is still functional, so it will have a bit of the drifter look to it at least till summer comes around. Using some thin aluminum, plastic weld, rivets, and seam sealer I was able to make it look mostly presentable. Might paint the rivets afterward to hide them a bit more.
I've got contacts at a couple ford dealerships if you need a better price, officialthreetwenty works at a ford dealer as well
 

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Discussion Starter #77
If by creeper, you mean sheet of cardboard, then yes lol. Every time I buy a hood or other large panel I get a few new ones.

Might have to take you up on that offer, best price I can find for a bumper cover either delivered or local is just under $600 cad.

For the front bumper undertray, I naturally had only scraps to work with. And it's no wonder given how brittle this thing is. Again, a new one is around $550, and would likely break at some point too. I know there are a number of full aluminum options but I think in a hard enough hit it may not flex at all and break the bumper itself - also, at least a couple weeks away.

I had just bought a 4x8 sheet of black puck board for another project, so it could find use here as well. Fairly stiff, but does flex at a limit. This drill attached shear makes it much easier to cut. Hand cutting a set of mudflaps is hard enough. I used the scraps of the original to make half the pattern, which was then mirrored.

Fits well on the first try, and helps further to bring my patchwork bumper into alignment.

I then had the idea to make it a hybrid, with an aluminum center section to protect the intercooler. For this, I cut the plastic in half and got the rivet gun out again, with a glue between the layers. End result is more rigid where it needs to be with a bit of flex on the edges. Normally I would make the protection area even stronger (like some of the Subaru plates I've made) but there is really nothing solid to attach it to under here anyway, so no point.

Currently it fits with the factory fabric skid plate, though obviously that will be tossed out as soon as I have time or money to get a proper one.

I also made this little side cover to protect the highly vulnerable and important crankshaft sensor. Seems odd to me there is nothing to keep it out of harm's way. Even the '18 didn't have one.

A few little corner pieces, and some tie in points to the fender liners resulted in a very solid bumper mounting. Feels much better than before.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Final piece of custom addition, rear bumper guards/braces. The back bumper is so weak and flexible, I actually had the Rallyarmour flaps on my last RS start to tear the thin mount. Good thing I kept this template I used for it!

Using the same material as the front undertray, I made a pair of guards and put them in place. They make a huge difference in the stiffness of the bumper, and also keep rocks and dirt from freely accumulating in the rear diffuser.

I also intend to run mud flaps, and even with these additions, the regular mounting points leave much to be desired in terms precision and stability. Instead, I decided to add an aluminum bracket to mount the flaps to. Lots of on and off, checking fitment.

Last thing to do, was the floor underbody covers from the RS. I forgot to do these before I put the carpet in, so I'll be mounting them screw side up, rather than screw down as originally intended. Didn't get any pics of this, just a 1 1/2 inch stainless screw through each of the 6 plastic nuts.

Last thing to do, is add the rustproofing cavity wax. Long tube with a spray nozzle. Winter creates tough demands here, gotta be on top of it before rust even gets the chance to start. Also, seam sealed some of the random open holes in the wheel wells. Keep water out and you won't need to fix a hole later.

And now, for the first time, it moves! Just around the driveway to perform basic checks for now. Got a bunch of error codes in multiple systems that will be addressed next.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Lol well here is some more love and hate. A nice smattering of codes.

So from these, I found a few things I'd forgotten. Say for example, plugging in the brake light switch, or the keyless remote antenna lead. Once the obvious ones were sorted, I had to figure out the occupancy sensor.

I used the mat and sensor from the SE, to avoid taking apart the RS seats. And it does work, it turns on and off the passenger airbag light. However I can't get the ecu to recognize and like it. Couldn't find any way to initialize it either. So instead, I removed the sensor only from the RS seat, and plugged it into the tube. Immediate success. No more codes.

After getting the plumbed ABS pump to cycle a few times, I switched connectors and initialized the dummy pump. I'll put it up in my ABS delete thread as well as some have asked, after copying the ASBUILT data from the original pump to the new one, you need to calibrate the lateral and longitudinal sensors within. Once that's done, it's good to go, and can be swapped anytime.

My modifications to the clutch pedal mean it can no longer reach the full stop sensors which let the ecu know it's fully depressed. It seems to activate one sensor, but not both. As such, it complains in weird ways, setting temporary CELs and not starting. Using the emergency direct starter switch, it will start but then also complains about a different sensor. I was going to remove these codes through Accesstuner when the car itself offered a solution. Press clutch AND brake to start. Had never seen this prompt before. Good news is, it works. Starts without complaining, though it does require you to hold the starter button for the duration, rather than one touch as normal. I actually like this better, feels more interactive.

Subsequent test drives have been excellent. Everything is working as it should, feels exactly like other RS' I've driven - but with much much better seating and controls. This short action clutch, brake, and extended ebrake make a big difference. The only thing that is unusual, is the heated seats seem to be on a timer. After about 5 min they shut off on their own. Maybe because the module is not seeing a temperature signal. Either way, it's on long enough for my tastes.

I'll update this thread with any long term findings and impressions as they arrive. For now, it's time to start using this car and enjoy 2 solid months of work.
 

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