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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I love this car. I wanted it the second I heard about and saw it. It has personality, styling that I like, practicality, and almost the right amount of motorsport feel. Almost. This car never came from the factory with a proper hardcore setup. It's understandable, the car was already the most expensive car in its class so compromises were made. And really, it's a street car that needed to be comfortable for most people, though some would argue they didn't achieve that either. My goal for this build is not to throw the entire Mountune parts list on it and get 450whp on the stock block. My goal is to address the more "soft" parts of the car and replace them with motorsport ready components. My goal is to make something that I could have seen being a "Track Edition" package released from the factory. These kinds of cars are usually a bit more hardcore while maintaining their being a street car. This car will be my autocross car and luckily the Street Touring class allows most everything that I ever wanted out of this car. For now.

Goals of the build:

Autocross focus and maintain it being a street car. Lose a little weight, improve airflow/temps on stock FMIC, high quality suspension setup.

Installed Mods:

AWE Track Exhaust
ETS Intake Gold Wrapped
Whiteline Front Sway Bar
Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
Mountune Rear Motor Mount
Mountune Shifter Arm and bushings
MCS TT1 Coilovers 600#/650#
Massive Rear Camber Arms
Velosa Tech BIG MOUTH Ram Air
Ambit RS18 18x9.5 Wheels (AutoX only)

Planned Mods soon:

Steeda Rear Links
Grimmspeed Lightweight Battery Kit
Custom Dyno Tune

Maybe I'll do these:
Catted downpipe.
Seats (I love the stock ones but so heavy)
Turbo blanket
CPE Motor Mounts

Build Notes

I still don't trust etunes or I would have gotten one already. I'll put this on a dyno so the tuner can do their own pulls at various throttle inputs and see for themselves. This will be the last thing I do. More power will be great, but it's not a main concern.

I understand that intakes don't do much for this car, at least for power. My goal here is to keep the stock intercooler and not add 20lbs to the nose of the car. With the heat film wrapped larger intake and the ram air for colder source air, my hope is that the stock FMIC will work well enough for autocross without heatsoak. We'll see.

MCS makes true competition ready coilovers. They have a stellar reputation with my local autocross group and they offer a zero compromises package. They are made in the USA, not too far from where I live. Rebuildable. The Ohlins package looks nice, but they are from overseas and do not carry the motorsport pedigree. The DSC package is too digital. I don't want or need a computer to adjust the dampening several miliseconds after I already needed it to be where I wanted. The KW kit is the only other option I would consider. Everything else is cheap and Chinese and I can't imagine they actually perform better than the adjustable stock setup. This MCS kit is 4 excellent dampers and some adjustability. Predictable, hopefully. I might regret not going for the double adjustable setup.

Expected weight loss:

Misc interior -12lbs
Exhaust -13.4lbs
Battery kit -31lbs
Suspension -13.6lbs
Wheels/Tires -20lbs
Sway bars and camber arms +10lbs

Net -80lbs

Edits

-Added MCS notes and weights
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is what I did this afternoon.

20190327_182440.jpg 20190327_184100.jpg 55503377_428602167896140_5428032655696330752_n.jpg 55840503_2081396008826950_2118658374424854528_n.jpg

I ran out of gold wrap. I'll get some more to finish the elbow.
 

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Subscribed. Nice build. Look forward to future updates, as I am likeminded and am going similar route. Curious as to why the 600#front/#650rear. What you’re thinking there? Isn’t more weight on the front, wouldn’t you want #650front on the coilovers?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Subscribed. Nice build. Look forward to future updates, as I am likeminded and am going similar route. Curious as to why the 600#front/#650rear. What you’re thinking there? Isn’t more weight on the front, wouldn’t you want #650front on the coilovers?

Cheers
These rates were suggested to me by Vorshlag, they could change down the line, springs are easy. But the idea is to help the back end get more free with higher rates. A lot of Evo guys did the same.
 

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Subscribed. Nice build. Look forward to future updates, as I am likeminded and am going similar route. Curious as to why the 600#front/#650rear. What you’re thinking there? Isn’t more weight on the front, wouldn’t you want #650front on the coilovers?

Cheers
The angle of the rear suspension is what forces the rears to be a higher rate. You're effectively losing a lot of the resistance because they're not aligned with the strut.
 

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Very cool! I purchased a RS about 4 months and when I get some money saved up I will be going a similar route. I am looking forward to hearing how this progresses and what you think of those spring rates.
 

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Have you run the car in autocross yet? I’m assuming you’d be in Street Touring Ultimate (STU). I’d like to hear about how you do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The angle of the rear suspension is what forces the rears to be a higher rate. You're effectively losing a lot of the resistance because they're not aligned with the strut.
Interesting! Though the bundled kits usually have a lower spring rate in the back. I imagine I'll be trying different rates.

Have you run the car in autocross yet? I’m assuming you’d be in Street Touring Ultimate (STU). I’d like to hear about how you do.


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Yup, that's the plan. My first competitive event in STU will be April 12th and 13th. I'm getting the coilovers installed this weekend and I'll be at an Optima autocross event on the 6th to test the car.

There aren't too many STU Focus RS. I imagine its competitive, though this will be on me to go fast. Gonna hit a lot of events up this year for as much seat time as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Update!

Put the RSB on, camber arms, and MCSs.

We did a floor alignment for now getting somewhere around 2.8 degrees of camber on the front and 2.2 degrees on the rear. No where near the max on the front. It could probably hit 4 degrees. Zero toe. I will be getting a full corner balance and machine alignment soon.

Oh, and I fully cut the shock towers for max caster adjustment.

20190331_143206.jpg

I only ran around the block a little bit and then drove home, but first impressions are outstanding. I was expecting it to be waaay rougher. It's firm but there's zero bounce and the turn in and body control is just wow. Can't wait for next weekend.

I'll give another update soon with more pictures of the whole setup once I get it aligned and balanced. Something is loose in the left front assembly. Most likely the sway bar weirdness going on with something not being tight or properly lined up. I used Hank's bracket design. We broke both wiper motors, be careful with those things, sheesh. Paper thin supports on those things. Gonna weld them up and I'll post pictures of what broke to show you what to be careful of.

Camber arms look like a pita to adjust with the wheels on.

You'll hear back from me soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright, we got the new wheels test fitted, the wiper motors fixed, and tightened up a loose sway bar link. Here are some pics of the MCS' on the car!

Let's ignore the sloppy spray paint job on the strut bar, if ya don't mind!

Maximum caster baby! :rockout:








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Thanks to @HanksRS for the sway bar link bracket design! His blog was a big help during all of this.









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Camber adjustment is in a great spot! /s



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Ambit RS18 18x9.5s w/ 265/35 RE71Rs. Will get proper alignment Thursday.



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Here's what happened to BOTH!!! wiper motors. Glob of weld fixed it. Those things are dumb.







Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have run 2 autocross events now with this setup. The tires don't rub! I'm aligned at 2.8/2.0 camber and 7 degrees of caster. Zero toe.

So let's write up a little review of the MCS setup. In short, I can't imagine anything better. This setup has completed and justified the car to me. The drivetrain works better, the turn in is better, the weight of the car has been lifted. I can't give you any comparisons to anything other than stock. I have never been in a car like this before. I haven't tried any other suspension setups. I have never done autocross before this car. So I can't tell you what it's like in comparison to another kit. What I can tell you is that the car eats bumps. You'll feel it, you'll know it's there, but the car doesn't care. Power delivery doesn't care. I had the latest revision stock dampers and the sport suspension setting was still unusable. Soft was okay. This setup runs almost triple the spring rate and it feels like a Cadillac in comparison.

The turn in is not only better, I can give more steering angle than before and itll keep turning. With the rear bar and the rear springs, and the planted and controlled front, the back end feels like it puts down so much more power and the pushy FWD nature of the car vanished. I run it in track mode too. I'm so stupidly impressed by what the car has become now. This is everything I hoped for out of this car. Really, I dont see the need to go further until I get $10k for a built motor.

I have adjustable rear links that came in and the RAM air. I'll get those installed and a proper corner balance and then this build is most likely done. Maybe I'll dyno tune it one day, but I'm not super convinced in this engines ability to get more than stock power reliably. And, theoretically, I should still have my warranty! What a great car.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The BIG MOUTH has been put on, that finishes the intake system. Looks awesome!

57209193_824862274579134_2364950860242354176_n.jpg

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The Steeda rear links are sitting here too. Debating on how to go about the battery situation. Leave stock and never worry about electronics, go Grimmspeed? Do it custom?

Also, I realized that I could also use more motor mounts, maybe. Probably. So I'll add that to the list.
 

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I have run 2 autocross events now with this setup. The tires don't rub! I'm aligned at 2.8/2.0 camber and 7 degrees of caster. Zero toe.

So let's write up a little review of the MCS setup. In short, I can't imagine anything better. This setup has completed and justified the car to me. The drivetrain works better, the turn in is better, the weight of the car has been lifted. I can't give you any comparisons to anything other than stock. I have never been in a car like this before. I haven't tried any other suspension setups. I have never done autocross before this car. So I can't tell you what it's like in comparison to another kit. What I can tell you is that the car eats bumps. You'll feel it, you'll know it's there, but the car doesn't care. Power delivery doesn't care. I had the latest revision stock dampers and the sport suspension setting was still unusable. Soft was okay. This setup runs almost triple the spring rate and it feels like a Cadillac in comparison.

The turn in is not only better, I can give more steering angle than before and itll keep turning. With the rear bar and the rear springs, and the planted and controlled front, the back end feels like it puts down so much more power and the pushy FWD nature of the car vanished. I run it in track mode too. I'm so stupidly impressed by what the car has become now. This is everything I hoped for out of this car. Really, I dont see the need to go further until I get $10k for a built motor.

I have adjustable rear links that came in and the RAM air. I'll get those installed and a proper corner balance and then this build is most likely done. Maybe I'll dyno tune it one day, but I'm not super convinced in this engines ability to get more than stock power reliably. And, theoretically, I should still have my warranty! What a great car.
Do the tires rub if you go full lock? I'm wanting to get 18x9.5" wheels myself for auto-x and 255x40 if possible or 265x35, but they will also be daily warm weather wheels/tires and I don't want any chance of rubbing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do the tires rub if you go full lock? I'm wanting to get 18x9.5" wheels myself for auto-x and 255x40 if possible or 265x35, but they will also be daily warm weather wheels/tires and I don't want any chance of rubbing.
I have gotten zero rubbing. Ambit RS18 wheels (18x9.5) with 263/35 RE71Rs.
 
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