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Focus RS KW V3s

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32K views 53 replies 18 participants last post by  dmtalon  
#1 ·
These beauties are being installed today. Should hopefully have the car back tomorrow evening or Thursday after installation and corner balancing.


 
#38 ·
Thanks for the feedback.
I will consider another KW kit for the car.
Could be V3 as I liked them or 2 way Clubsport.
I would prefer the 3 way but KW does not seem to like Ford for some reason.
Other competitors have the best and latest but the tiny Ford needs to settle for less :).
 
#40 ·
The 2 way indeed is a solid option but the best and latest in the 3 way which for some reason does not end up on the Ford RS accessories list.
 
#43 ·
Drove identical STI, one with std KW V3 setup and mine with Clubsport with higher spring rates and linear springs. The V3 was a little bit better on the slow speed impacts/ride quality for DD use but the Clubsports were noticable better for aggressive street use or when going 9/10s. Both worked well, just tradeoff optimal DD use for aggressive street/occassional track use. Felt that they were both good choices and at the time the price difference was $150, so no real price penality, IMO. Either one is a good performing setup at a reasonable price.
 
#47 ·
I've got these on my car with the intention of also purchasing some wider 18" rims and putting some meaty(er) tires on for track day use. However like others here, have discovered the rear drop is pretty significant. I even called KW to ask them about alternative rear springs, perch or spacers. His reply was that these were designed for OEM rims/tires. And that raising the rear outside the ride height range will destroy the shocks, BUT they do make 3 different size spacers. (so a bit confusing)

He also shared the ride hight limits on the front/rear. I am assuming this is from the piston part of the rod to the shock body. And for the Front's the expected/nominal extension min/max are 7.9" - 8.7" and for the rear it's 12.8" - 13.4". I'm going to look at what it will take to measure these on the car and see how much I might be able to raise it w/o going outside their specs.

When I installed mine, I flipped the rear plate that is pressed onto the lower control arm to get an extra bit of height, but even with that, if I had any poke with tires they are gonna rub (assuming the same diameter tire).


One other thing is I have two noises that these make. I get a clicking noise from the front/left that sounds almost like plastic or even a brake pin/spring over bumps. This noise disappears (aka is hard to hear) once at speed with the radio on and/or windows down. but it is still there. And under some large "whoop" bumps I will get a whistle/blow sound. This second noise rarely happens but over some of our lousy roads on occasion I do get it. Just curious if this is normal (I totally forgot to ask KW when I called)

For reference, I also have Vorshlag Camber Plates which I thought were making the "clicking" noise, but I pulled them all apart and inspected everything and took measurements etc and they are all in spec. There was one part that seemed to have a little play, but Vorshlag confirmed they were ok and would not make noise because of the play.



 
#49 · (Edited)
Bump. Buttoning up my build. Just curious where a good place to start is for rebound/compression. Any suggestions?

kw v3 clubsports (highest ride height to start)
Whiteline sway bars (full stiff f/r)
Whiteline caster brackets etc
Will update on camber but should be about -3.5 front, -2.5 rear with room to still go -

Edit: kw suggests rebound f7, r9 and compression f4, r6. There are spelling mistakes in the user manual, I assume they want you to fully close the valves (full stiff), then say for rebound go BACK 7 clicks from full stiff
 
#50 ·
Bump. Buttoning up my build. Just curious where a good place to start is for rebound/compression. Any suggestions?

kw v3 clubsports (highest ride height to start)
Whiteline sway bars (full stiff f/r)
Whiteline caster brackets etc
Will update on camber but should be about -3.5 front, -2.5 rear with room to still go -

Edit: kw suggests rebound f7, r9 and compression f4, r6. There are spelling mistakes in the user manual, I assume they want you to fully close the valves (full stiff), then say for rebound go BACK 7 clicks from full stiff
I did not start full stiff, on sway bars as they can have a dramatic impact on handling. I did middle on the fronts and soft on the rears. I didn't want to start with "stiff" in the rear and cause too much rotation. I have left them as is, with those settings and been happy with them.

My Vorshlag camber plates (installed 2018) have a bad spherical bearing. Car is on jack stands now, going to have to pull everything apart and send them in to be rebuilt... <sigh>