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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased the Focus RS Ford Performance Short Throw Shifter for the Focus RS as well as the RS Carbon Fiber Shift Knob. I just installed the short throw shifter last week. Install went great, checked all the gears and everything seemed like it went smoothly. Then last night, I went to replace the regular shift knob that came on it with the Ford Performance Carbon Fiber shift knob and this is where I am running into an issue. When I screw the carbon fiber shift knob on tight, it is too far down and does not allow me to put the car in reverse. It is preventing me from pulling up on the reverse lockout collar far enough to clear and allow the shifter to slide into reverse gear. The carbon fiber knob works with the Original shifter assembly that came with the car. Upon investigation as to why the carbon knob doesn't work with the short throw shifter, it looks to be due to the length of the threaded rod. In the original shifter, the threaded rod is above the reverse lockout spring, but in the performance short throw shifter, it looks as though the threads were just cut off, and the rod does not come up past the spring. This is the only difference I see that could potentially be causing this. There are a bunch of pictures below that show what I am looking at. Is the threaded rod on this short throw shifter supposed to be cut/ground off like that, or is it some sort of defect?

You would think both of these being Ford Performance parts, they would work together fine. Is there something I am missing here, or for some reason do they not work together?
Also, what is really causing me some confusion is, after the carbon fiber knob would not function correctly, I went to put the regular shift knob that came already assembled on the short throw shifter back on, and now that shifter won't operate correctly either. It is doing the same thing the carbon fiber shift knob was doing when I screw it down, the reverse lockout collar doesn't have enough room to pull up. This is rather confusing since it worked fine when I first installed the short throw shifter and tested all the gears including reverse. So as of right now, neither the regular knob or the carbon knob work with this shfiter, yet they both work fine with the original OEM shifter assembly.

Can anyone provide any help/guidance on this issue?

Thank you very much for any info/help you can provide.

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I purchased the Focus RS Ford Performance Short Throw Shifter for the Focus RS as well as the RS Carbon Fiber Shift Knob. I just installed the short throw shifter last week. Install went great, checked all the gears and everything seemed like it went smoothly. Then last night, I went to replace the regular shift knob that came on it with the Ford Performance Carbon Fiber shift knob and this is where I am running into an issue. When I screw the carbon fiber shift knob on tight, it is too far down and does not allow me to put the car in reverse. It is preventing me from pulling up on the reverse lockout collar far enough to clear and allow the shifter to slide into reverse gear. The carbon fiber knob works with the Original shifter assembly that came with the car. Upon investigation as to why the carbon knob doesn't work with the short throw shifter, it looks to be due to the length of the threaded rod. In the original shifter, the threaded rod is above the reverse lockout spring, but in the performance short throw shifter, it looks as though the threads were just cut off, and the rod does not come up past the spring. This is the only difference I see that could potentially be causing this. There are a bunch of pictures below that show what I am looking at. Is the threaded rod on this short throw shifter supposed to be cut/ground off like that, or is it some sort of defect?

You would think both of these being Ford Performance parts, they would work together fine. Is there something I am missing here, or for some reason do they not work together?
Also, what is really causing me some confusion is, after the carbon fiber knob would not function correctly, I went to put the regular shift knob that came already assembled on the short throw shifter back on, and now that shifter won't operate correctly either. It is doing the same thing the carbon fiber shift knob was doing when I screw it down, the reverse lockout collar doesn't have enough room to pull up. This is rather confusing since it worked fine when I first installed the short throw shifter and tested all the gears including reverse. So as of right now, neither the regular knob or the carbon knob work with this shfiter, yet they both work fine with the original OEM shifter assembly.

Can anyone provide any help/guidance on this issue?

Thank you very much for any info/help you can provide.
Wow! What a coincidence! I literally just finished installing this same exact set up on my RS! I installed my FP short shifter when I installed my Euro cupholder and armrest last night/this morning. Took me like half an hour to get the dang shift knob off the FP short shifter. Finally budged after hitting it with my heat gun (I believe they put some sort of adhesive on the knob at the factory). Anywho, I just buttoned everything up. So I guess you can say I'm the best resource for your predicament.

While I can help with this... Unfortunately, I don't think you're going to like the answer. Long story short, my FP carbon fiber shift knob works perfectly with my FP short shifter. I believe you are correct in pointing out the threading. It looks like either your unit is defective, so somebody cut it. I know @KrismanX also has the FP short shifter, so maybe he can confirm? Here's what the threading on mine looks like...
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And here's what it looks like with the FP carbon fiber shift knob...
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And finally, with the reverse lock out engaged...
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So not sure where you bought your short shifter, but you may want to exchange it or get your money back. Let me know if you need my help with anything else!
 

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You could try getting a wood dowel that can fit inside the knob loose and cut it to the length that your lacking, looks to be about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch drop it in the knob screw it down .
as long as it’s snug and doesn’t wobble might work
Happy Trails!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
@Si2RS What convenient timing haha. Thanks for your pics, those do seem to point to the length of the treads. So I bought mine from Mountune at the end of 2019. I've emailed them to see what they say. But it does seem like some sort of defect. Hopefully they'll be able to provide some help or maybe even ship me a new one (although it has been awhile since I bought it. It sat in its box until last week when I installed it). Short of that, I'll probably have to do what @pecoskid suggested and take up the extra space within the knob.
 

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@Si2RS What convenient timing haha. Thanks for your pics, those do seem to point to the length of the treads. So I bought mine from Mountune at the end of 2019. I've emailed them to see what they say. But it does seem like some sort of defect. Hopefully they'll be able to provide some help or maybe even ship me a new one (although it has been awhile since I bought it. It sat in its box until last week when I installed it). Short of that, I'll probably have to do what @pecoskid suggested and take up the extra space within the knob.
Cool. Yeah, I'd reach out to them and let them know what's going on. For all the flak Mountune gets here in the US, I can say I've only had positive interactions/results with them. It's also convenient they aren't too far away from me here in Orange County. I'm sure they'll make it right for you. Best of luck!
 

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Whaaa?? I’m so confused at why it sits so low that it hides the thread once installed. It shouldn’t change how much threading shows once installed versus not. If it’s true and the threads were cut then you may be SOL unless you can get a replacement. Before you switched knobs, did the included knob allow for reverse?

Hopefully these pics confirm for you! I’d suggest starting with going through the entire process again to make sure you didn’t miss a step, resulting in the added drop you’re seeing. I used a Youtube video where a guy was installed a CAE shifter into his crazy RS build. His dash breakdown and extra shots made a loooot more sense to me than the included instructions! Good luck bro.











Oh and make sure you begin the process in Neutral when you disconnect the shifter cables. I also only need to turn maybe 4.5 turns from placement to fully tightened for lockout.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@KrismanX Thanks for the pics. And yes, before I switched knobs, the regular knob that came installed on it did allow for reverse. I drove around and tested the short shifter right after I installed it and everything worked. It was only once i unscrewed that regular knob to put on the carbon one is when I noticed that it took way more than 4.5-5 turns to get tight. And because it was not getting tight, and kept allowing to screw further down, once it finally gets tight, its too far down for the lockout collar to work. And that's when I looked and saw the threads not up past the top of the spring. What is weird is that it worked fine with the "regular knob" before I took it off. But now, even if I try to put that same "regular knob" back on, it is doing the same thing the carbon knob is doing (screwing too far down).
 

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@KrismanX Thanks for the pics. And yes, before I switched knobs, the regular knob that came installed on it did allow for reverse. I drove around and tested the short shifter right after I installed it and everything worked. It was only once i unscrewed that regular knob to put on the carbon one is when I noticed that it took way more than 4.5-5 turns to get tight. And because it was not getting tight, and kept allowing to screw further down, once it finally gets tight, its too far down for the lockout collar to work. And that's when I looked and saw the threads not up past the top of the spring. What is weird is that it worked fine with the "regular knob" before I took it off. But now, even if I try to put that same "regular knob" back on, it is doing the same thing the carbon knob is doing (screwing too far down).
Nothing broke off in the other knob? Hopefully the company you bought from can assist
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nothing broke off in the other knob? Hopefully the company you bought from can assist
That was my first thought, but immediately checked inside both knobs, and they are both clear. Yeah, I emailed Mountune today, so I'll probably hear back sometime this week and see what they say.
 

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I don’t want to offend you but is the reverse lockout actually sitting properly on the shaft of the shifter. It looks to me as either the reverse lockout is not fully seated or your shifter had an 1” taken off the top.

I currently swapped out to the raceseng titanium knob and reverse lock out and have not had an issue and I did not have an issue when I had the Cobb or Mountune knob Installed either.


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Do you have a better picture of the short shifter shaft? It almost looks like the shaft was sheared off.
 

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The thread look short, yep. Hope you get it sorted out.

You guys are making me read.

I got the CF knob curious on getting the FP short throw shifter. I looked at this before when I was going to pick up my car from the dealer and changed my mind to get the shifter arm instead from JBR. Have not installed it yet htough.

other than the 10% less throw, any other benefits for the FP short throw shifter?
 

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That was my first thought, but immediately checked inside both knobs, and they are both clear. Yeah, I emailed Mountune today, so I'll probably hear back sometime this week and see what they say.
Mountune is really legit, maybe there was a misstep during install. If you’ve got an hour I’d say tear it down and start from scratch! If you picture up the process we might be able to diagnose the issue better with you! Cheers sir and good luck!
 

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The thread look short, yep. Hope you get it sorted out.

You guys are making me read.

I got the CF knob curious on getting the FP short throw shifter. I looked at this before when I was going to pick up my car from the dealer and changed my mind to get the shifter arm instead from JBR. Have not installed it yet htough.

other than the 10% less throw, any other benefits for the FP short throw shifter?
Construction of the FP shifter includes some metal components instead of plastic, so it’s also a sturdier piece. Combo with some solid shifter cable bushings and I bet it’s tight as a drum(although I left all the oem components). I haven’t had any gear confusion since install so it definitely takes some of that guesswork out during throws, at least to me.
 

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Mountune is really legit, maybe there was a misstep during install. If you’ve got an hour I’d say tear it down and start from scratch! If you picture up the process we might be able to diagnose the issue better with you! Cheers sir and good luck!


My short shifter assembly is on the left with the included OEM knob. I only replaced the top portion of my OEM assembly as it looked identical to me and I didn’t want to remove the center console.
 

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I just want to ask, is $395 before tax and free shipping a good price for this?
 

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Construction of the FP shifter includes some metal components instead of plastic, so it’s also a sturdier piece. Combo with some solid shifter cable bushings and I bet it’s tight as a drum(although I left all the oem components). I haven’t had any gear confusion since install so it definitely takes some of that guesswork out during throws, at least to me.
I too just swapped the top portion of the shifter with the FP short shifter. I went ahead and installed the Boomba solid shifter bushings during the swap as well. Everything seems tighter and nice overall compared to the stock one. Although, I'm just noticing in some pictures I took, in neutral, it seems off center (to the right). But I believe the stock one is also slightly off center (to the right). I made sure everything was fastened down properly (even according to torque specs), and like I said, shifts are crisp and precise, so it's probably by design. Pics of what I mean (I use the HVAC buttons boot stitching for reference)...
Stock (with COBB limited edition shift knob):
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Stock (with stock knob):
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FP Short Shifter (with stock knob):
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FP Short Shifter (with CF knob):
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I suppose camera angle can also be a contributing factor.
 

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I just want to ask, is $395 before tax and free shipping a good price for this?
Well, I picked up mine from Levittown Ford. Shifter was $384 and CF knob was $85. That was the cheapest price by far, as the next closest was $430 for the shifter and $100 for the knob. BUT, I did pay $20 in shipping. HOWEVER, since they're based in NY, there was no tax shipping to Cali! Was a pleasant surprise seeing as even B&H now charges tax for purchases in CA.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Do you have a better picture of the short shifter shaft? It almost looks like the shaft was sheared off.
Here are some better pics of the short shifters threaded rod. The very top of my threaded rod looks cut off to me. The threaded rods you guys are posting do not look like that on the top.

I get what @Moxboost was saying, and I would agree if I was installing something more complicated like a bomoba or steeda short shifter where you have to disassemble and OEM shifter assembly, replace the rod/ball&socket and transfer over parts within the internal assembly itself. But with this shifter all I had to do was unmount it at 4 points and remount those same 4 points. @KrismanX thanks for posting your side by side pic. I'm going to reuse that real quick to highlight the mounting points. You can either use the 4 green mounting points if you replace the base as well. Or you can just use the 4 blue mounting points if you are just replacing the upper assembly. I went ahead and removed the console so I took the entire assembly out at the base (green points) and just put the short shifter right in that same spot and mounted it down. This install was very straight forward and not very complicated at all. The only thing that makes it a pain is all the trim panels you have to deal with, but if you have a set of the plastic panel removal tools, it is not bad at all. That being said, there really isn't a place where the install can be done incorrecly especially since I did not touch/modify the inners of the assembly mechanism. Mine looked exactly like the one on the left of @KrismanX picture. My knob was at that same location and the reverse lockout worked fine. I installed the entire thing, and it still worked fine. I drove around on it for an entire day (forward and reverse). It was the following day when I removed that silver knob that the problems started. It looks to me that my rod was for some reason cut short and the silver knob was glued/threadlocked in place and when I unscrewed it, that broke free the glue, and that seems to be why both the silver and the carbon knob screw too far down for reverse lockout to work correctly.

The picture of the shifter in reverse gear without any knob on top kind of leads to that same conclusion. When in reverse gear (meaning the lockout coller is raised to the correct point) there are not many threads available for the knob (which makes sense why the knob would still be loose when screwed to this point and why maybe some sort of glue or threadlocker was used to hold it right at that perfect level).
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Here are some better pics of the short shifters threaded rod. The very top of my threaded rod looks cut off to me. The threaded rods you guys are posting do not look like that on the top.

I get what @Moxboost was saying, and I would agree if I was installing something more complicated like a bomoba or steeda short shifter where you have to disassemble and OEM shifter assembly, replace the rod/ball&socket and transfer over parts within the internal assembly itself. But with this shifter all I had to do was unmount it at 4 points and remount those same 4 points. @KrismanX thanks for posting your side by side pic. I'm going to reuse that real quick to highlight the mounting points. You can either use the 4 green mounting points if you replace the base as well. Or you can just use the 4 blue mounting points if you are just replacing the upper assembly. I went ahead and removed the console so I took the entire assembly out at the base (green points) and just put the short shifter right in that same spot and mounted it down. This install was very straight forward and not very complicated at all. The only thing that makes it a pain is all the trim panels you have to deal with, but if you have a set of the plastic panel removal tools, it is not bad at all. That being said, there really isn't a place where the install can be done incorrecly especially since I did not touch/modify the inners of the assembly mechanism. Mine looked exactly like the one on the left of @KrismanX picture. My knob was at that same location and the reverse lockout worked fine. I installed the entire thing, and it still worked fine. I drove around on it for an entire day (forward and reverse). It was the following day when I removed that silver knob that the problems started. It looks to me that my rod was for some reason cut short and the silver knob was glued/threadlocked in place and when I unscrewed it, that broke free the glue, and that seems to be why both the silver and the carbon knob screw too far down for reverse lockout to work correctly.

The picture of the shifter in reverse gear without any knob on top kind of leads to that same conclusion. When in reverse gear (meaning the lockout coller is raised to the correct point) there are not many threads available for the knob (which makes sense why the knob would still be loose when screwed to this point and why maybe some sort of glue or threadlocker was used to hold it right at that perfect level).
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Damn...:cut/grind + glue is exactly what that looks like. Maybe Mountune got a return and thought everything was good so they shipped it back out for the next sale. Hopefully they will remedy this for you bruv.
 
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