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Nutts then! Maybe your in a hotter climate and or have a better tire pressure gauge. Most I saw was 3psi in my 510 Datsun (1,845lbs).
You ice racers are a little clueless when it comes to high track temps. Only 3 lbs.?
Info for novices at a track day in an RS.
"From a cold starting point of 5 psig less than street pressures, {RS is 46} you can begin the trial and error cycle of making small adjustments and determining the effect. To do this, you will need to run several laps to get the tires hot to start with. Take it easy the first 3 laps or so until the tires come up to temperature. The car will be quite sloppy with the initial low pressures.
After 3 or 4 laps, the tires should feel consistent. Run several more laps to get a feel of the overall grip level and the handling balance. If you're held up by traffic, stay out until you get at least three maximum-effort laps. Then come in to take the pressures and temperatures, and report on the handling. Do not make a cool down lap before coming in as the tires will cool down significantly making the tire temperature data useless (When you park, be sure to not use the parking brake, or rest on the brake pedal as you can easily warp the brake rotors)." Very professional advice here and below!

This is a decent write-up for normal weather days. TurnFast! Race Driving Techniques for Heel Toe Downshift, Driving Line, Cornering, Braking, and More ? Tire Pressure 1 View attachment _R4A2155.jpg
 

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Nice I guess I'm clueless now. Thanks for letting me know @Rallycross. Florida is hot and humid all the time I guess here in the Pacific Northwest I'll be sure to pump up my spiked tires.
 

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Would not trust this guy to test a Yugo. 30lbs? Understeer? Squalling tires? Any tire pressure buildup was caused by severely underinflated, 300 treadwear tires on the heavy stock rims, rolling over on the sidewalls and flexing like crazy. He's lucky they didn't fail and blow out. The load, as when trail braking into in a corner by the RS on the front tires is enormous, it aint a miata. If you don't have a pyrometer, get some tire crayon and mark your sidewall to check for rollover. Start with high pressures and you can always reduce them till sidewall wear noted. They didn't recommend 46 lbs cold for a fully loaded car for no reason, and braking and turning at speed is harder on a tire than just rolling around with the family and groceries in the back. As far as autocross pressures, 40 second runs? Need sidewall bite, run lower pressures. Not any worries about tire heat buildup is there? Sidewall flex is a major tire killer. Track use, start with higher pressures.
You do realize that Michelin recommends 35psi F/R for track use, right?

http://www.focusrs.org/forum/18-focus-rs-wheels-tires/3390-michelin-s-super-sport-tire-design-bespoke-rs.html

Tracking at 46-50psi+ is ridiculous. And PBIR is one of the worst tracks out there, with its long radius sweeping turns, it will make pretty much any car understeer. In addition the abrasive surface kills tires and the only tracks in the country that are equal or worse are CMP & MSR Houston.
 

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You do realize that Michelin recommends 35psi F/R for track use, right?

http://www.focusrs.org/forum/18-focus-rs-wheels-tires/3390-michelin-s-super-sport-tire-design-bespoke-rs.html

Tracking at 46-50psi+ is ridiculous.
How about a car using 48 cold to 65 hot [pg 11] http://hscra.us/PDF/nascar_goodyear_tire_manual.pdf
3300 lb car

FYI http://www.racegoodyear.com/cfmx/web/aes/pdf/2016_Databook.pdf


The unofficial recommendation of an independent to advise 35/35 cold starting pressures for a track, but to accomplish what hot running pressures? 6 to 8 lbs when hot gain? That has nothing to do with the Ford factory recommendation of 46 all around for a street driven fully loaded RS. But what do they know. Compared to the relatively insignificant heat build up caused in normal street driving at 70MPH during 90+ air temps on a sunny day, guess what the road temp is, 130? Wonder what the hot pressure is after a trip? Can you tell us? Now should we take anyone's advice on a cold starting pressure for the same exact tire/car when used on a track but no other info given. Like all those other pesky temps I previously mentioned that would affect final pressures when hot. Having raced enduros in very cold, rainy conditions at night {Daytona-The Glen, and hot as hell, sunny races at Sebring, Homestead, Charlotte etc. One fact remains, never run underinflated, start high and learn what pressure buildup happens while still maintaining a handling/wear balance. Trail braking into the last corner after the long straight at PBIR, and hitting the pits immediately, you will be at least 46+ air pressure reading in the LF, if your cold pressures were set correctly. But you knew that, you are just trying to trick your competitors. You knew that if a factory cold reading starting pressure of 46 for a loaded car was good, then stressing a tire by running over 100 MPH on a hot, sunny day then diving into a turn and hard braking for the corner using that same tire, the pressure then would be, what 32? 34? or at a minimum 46? Think about it. This is a good write up for others, you and I know everything already. Winding Road | Speed Secrets: How To Dial In Tire Pressures
View attachment _R4A2155.jpg
 

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I agree that a tire pyrometer is a must-have for anyone serious about tracking their car. The readings will dictate ideal tire pressures, alignments, and corner weights (in racing). Having tracked and raced many FWD and AWD cars, running factory alignment - not enough front camber, will chew up the outside of any front tire. Running extreme pressures to save the sidewall also reduces grip so it's kind of a lose-lose situation. Poor driving technique will make the wear MUCH quicker, and the result of different cars and tires will vary.

Having tracked the RS on the MPSC2, I'm sticking with my personal experience of 38-42psi hot recommendation on a stock alignment. I would have thought that from your experience you would have a different opinion on tire pressures, but no one is forcing you off of your ridiculous 46-50psi+ hot pressures. If you're happy with your results, that's all that matters.
 

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I ran 41/40 hot on the cup2s at a slow-ish (mostly 2nd and 3rd gear corners) track. When they cooled, they showed 35 psi. I got a low pressure warning at those levels.

My street pressures are 41/40 cold, and I drive to the track at those pressures. I adjust down until they settle at 41/40 hot. I think that's as low as i'll go to give a bit of curb protection.
 

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You guys are all arguing over something easily fixed. The fact that the car can't do 3 laps without the oil overheating is a huge concern to me. The last thing I wanted to do is slap an oil cooler on the car and then have Ford deny a warranty claim because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You guys are all arguing over something easily fixed. The fact that the car can't do 3 laps without the oil overheating is a huge concern to me. The last thing I wanted to do is slap an oil cooler on the car and then have Ford deny a warranty claim because of it.
Totally agree with you... Everyone is talking about the cold/hot tire pressure and while that is, of course, important - everyone seems to be avoiding the 600lbs gorilla in the room... the oil overheating after 3-4 laps!!! For me, this is a huge concern, or am I missing something here???
 

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Totally agree with you... Everyone is talking about the cold/hot tire pressure and while that is, of course, important - everyone seems to be avoiding the 600lbs gorilla in the room... the oil overheating after 3-4 laps!!! For me, this is a huge concern, or am I missing something here???
Maybe that's why the brakes last so long, because you need to do a cool down lap every 10 minutes lol.

The R has factory oil and transmission (dsg) coolers. Not sure why Ford thought they could live without one, or how this wasn't a glaring issue on testing. I'm sure someone will try and say he was .658 quarts low on oil and that was the issue.
 

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Totally agree with you... Everyone is talking about the cold/hot tire pressure and while that is, of course, important - everyone seems to be avoiding the 600lbs gorilla in the room... the oil overheating after 3-4 laps!!! For me, this is a huge concern, or am I missing something here???
You're missing out on the fact that the person behind the wheel didn't even know what an RDU was until YouTube commenters explained it to him. So all credibility goes out the window for me.

Why don't other's who have tracked their RS come to the fore with any issues, rather than mere speculation based on one video?
 

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You're missing out on the fact that the person behind the wheel didn't even know what an RDU was until YouTube commenters explained it to him. So all credibility goes out the window for me.

Why don't other's who have tracked their RS come to the fore with any issues, rather than mere speculation based on one video?
Too many threads in here based on wild speculations with limited data or subjective experiences. Cars trying to kill drivers in the UK, under performance, lack of hp, understeer, understeer, understeer. Human nature I suppose. Yes there's some issues - B pillar for one, but a whole lot of non-issues as well lol. Oh well, keeps the forum interesting.
 

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You're missing out on the fact that the person behind the wheel didn't even know what an RDU was until YouTube commenters explained it to him. So all credibility goes out the window for me.

Why don't other's who have tracked their RS come to the fore with any issues, rather than mere speculation based on one video?
There have been reports from forum members of high oil temps on the track. People just discredit anyone who has something negative to say about this car. Him not knowing what a RDU is has zero to do with him looking at a temperature gauge.
 

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There have been reports from forum members of high oil temps on the track. People just discredit anyone who has something negative to say about this car. Him not knowing what a RDU is has zero to do with him looking at a temperature gauge.
Not discrediting him based on him having a negative opinion of the car. I'm discrediting him on the basis that he doesn't even bother to understand what he's driving. He's a YouTube poster, a journalist of sorts. The key to any published article is to have done your research. He clearly has done none. Hence I will ignore his opinion.

Chris Harris on the other hand, who has also accused the RS of "UNDERSTEER", I respect his opinion and fully look forward to a review from him personally.
 

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It's a 2017? I saw their "Suspension Challenges" video too and they said 2017 with that. I haven't even got my MY16 yet!


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They just have no clue what they are talking about. They are against the car a little as they can't sell their camber kits, which are somewhat ****ty anyways in my experience with them.

I wouldn't listen to a word of what they say just based on the two videos they did on the RS.
 

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Didn't y'all catch where he said he only had 2 quarts of oil in the engine? He was trying to save weight with the low tire pressure and lack of oil!
 
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