There are some reference dimension in the workshop manual to help position the frame.@big jim @GmpaJimj
First we set up a couple reference points on the driver side of the frame. Using levels, straight edges, 90° angles, and some gauge blocks.
We started off by shoving a longer crowbar into the frame and making room for our hydraulic tools.
We got some small 2" hollow hydraulic cylinders and a few smaller hydraulic spreaders.
We basically shoved those into the frame where it needed to be pushed back out, we would also put on a couple small pieces of some flat stock steel to push out a larger area at once, when we had the room to do so.
Once we got the bulk of it to match the driver side, we got a hammer and longer punch set to reach into the inside of the frame so we can punch out any divots that were left.
So in the end,
we pulled the passenger side out to match the driver side.(To our knowledge we assume car frames should be symmetrical)
And now we are where we are. 😀
So I wouldn't say its perfect or factory spec exact, but its close enough to where we believe the front crash bar should fit on nicely.
If anything we should just need minor adjustments.
I will gladly help you out.
I guess the SE wont have the front tow hook fitting welded to it...might be worth somehow attaching some kind of tow strap to it while it’s all apart! Unless you think you wont ever use it!I will gladly help you out.
Punch this number into eBay, you will find other part numbers that you can also use to search for it on there. I ended looking for the cheapest one.
I believe mine that I purchased was from a 2017 Ford Focus SE.
Just in luck,I am following this . I have ambitions to buy a wrecked one and do the same for a second RS