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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone who has a roof mounted bike rack chime in here? I ride mountain bikes. Alot. I have never used a roof rack cause I didn't want to put the money into my current car so I just load my bike into the trunk with the seats down. I am looking for clarification around cost, durability, ease of use, style, and security. I am also looking at getting a Fatbike so I would want to go with a company that has that option. This is something that would stay on my RS year round, so I want something that will last and look good. Pics too if you got em. . .
 

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Can anyone who has a roof mounted bike rack chime in here? I ride mountain bikes. Alot. I have never used a roof rack cause I didn't want to put the money into my current car so I just load my bike into the trunk with the seats down. I am looking for clarification around cost, durability, ease of use, style, and security. I am also looking at getting a Fatbike so I would want to go with a company that has that option. This is something that would stay on my RS year round, so I want something that will last and look good. Pics too if you got em. . .
I have standard Thule bars with the specific fit kit for my Mazda 3. I also have the Thule swing-arm bike mount as well as the Thule kayak stacker. I'm waiting until I take delivery of my RS and I'll sell the Mazda 3 fit kit and get one for the Focus. Thule is a pretty highly recommended brand and they have fit kits for pretty much any car so you might want to look into that. Can get a bit pricey depending on the style roof bars you get as well as the complexity of the accessories.
 

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I don't ride anymore, but used to always use Thule stuff. Very well built, and great fitment.
 

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Thule 591 for the roof - fast and stable to load / unload. Thrives can defeat the lock however. Won't especially like fat tyres, its tyre seat is sized for road tyre widths but copes with 2.5s.
Fits most frames but pays to check the clamp interface and your bikes.
Elimiñates wheel in / out grind and finding room in your car for wheels.
Consider applying some protective film on your frame where the clamp contacts as your paint will wear.
Have 4 of these añd used them for 15 yrs.

Ford UK have a nice rebadged Thule bar with pins to key into the door frame holes which may reduce bar movement on the paint over time. It also has neatly tapered and finished bar clamps...at the expense of width and lashing points. I saw this in an ST forum.
 

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I've been looking into this as well as the RS will be my daily driver. All of my cars over the years have had luggage rails. My plan is to go with the new Thule rack system. This system comes with 3m clear bra patches to place under the feet of the rack on the roof. Couple of items: First, like you, I will have this rack on most of the time. You will want to remove it often to keep the area under the feet clean. Also, yearly replacement of the 3M pads is a good idea as they will get wavy and dirty as well. This would be my advice and what I'm planning to do. Winter is probably more important than summer with regards to removing the rack on a more regular basis.
 

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Also have a 943 tow bar mount but FoRS towbar options are problematic - too unknown for now.

Bikes are secure but can tend to foul each other requiring careful loading. Tow bar mounts can run too near the ground a hit through dips.
Confidentiality tilt works well and is essential.
Tow ball clamp is brilliant!
Too heavy and awkward for my wife to manage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been looking into this as well as the RS will be my daily driver. All of my cars over the years have had luggage rails. My plan is to go with the new Thule rack system. This system comes with 3m clear bra patches to place under the feet of the rack on the roof. Couple of items: First, like you, I will have this rack on most of the time. You will want to remove it often to keep the area under the feet clean. Also, yearly replacement of the 3M pads is a good idea as they will get wavy and dirty as well. This would be my advice and what I'm planning to do. Winter is probably more important than summer with regards to removing the rack on a more regular basis.
So is there no "bolt on" kit for the Focus? What I mean is my Saab has little removable plugs in the roof that I am assuming is where you would mount the rack, off the paint. If the Focus does not have that, how is the rack held on? If it has to rest on the paint, it there anything like a foam or something that could stick on the car (as opposed to the rack)? My line of thought is that if the foam was stuck to the car, then there would be no chance for damage from the rack moving on the paint.
 

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So is there no "bolt on"kitt for the Focus? What I mean is my Saab has little removable plugs in the roIf that I am assuming is where you would mount the rack, off the paint. If the Focus does not have that, how is the rack held on? If it has to rest on the paint, it there anything like a foam or something that could stick on the car (as opposed to the rack)? My line of thought is that if the foam was stuck to the car, then there would be no chance for damage from the rack moving on the paint.
Correct. Nasty hooks into the doorframe. At least it seems Saarluis does the pre holed door frame pressing which should 'fix' the mount for/aft movement ...see the tow bar an I crazy thread for a pic of the door frame hole with plug installed. I don't think these holes have threads. I will explore if riv-nuts with appropriate mods to the rack pin to receive a fastener can provide a more solid fixing
For pics of these features. More nasty, rubber loadd bearing pads on the paint - planning to double layer some protective heavy duty film there.

Wouldn't go so fr as 'no chance'. I expect some day I'll see a hole worn through my paint and feel really dark.
 

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Correct. Nasty hooks into the doorframe. At least it seems Saarluis does the pre holed door frame pressing which should 'fix' the mount for/aft movement ...see the tow bar an I crazy thread for a pic of the door frame hole with plug installed. I don't think these holes have threads. I will explore if riv-nuts with appropriate mods to the rack pin to receive a fastener can provide a more solid fixing
For pics of these features. More nasty, rubber loadd bearing pads on the paint - planning to double layer some protective heavy duty film there.

Wouldn't go so fr as 'no chance'. I expect some day I'll see a hole worn through my paint and feel really dark.
Shoot that's more complicated than I thought! The setup on my Mazda 3 is basically just 4 plastic rectangles in the roof trenches (or whatever those black inserts are called) which slide out to reveal threaded anchors which you screw the support rods into and then slip the feet with the roof bars (which are contoured for the roof) over. You then screw those down and fit the locking covers to prevent theft and bam you're done.

You're saying that the fit kit for the Focus grasps the door frames instead of the roof trenches? That's odd considering the Focus and Gen 2 Mazda 3 share Ford's C1 body.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Shoot that's more complicated than I thought! The setup on my Mazda 3 is basically just 4 plastic rectangles in the roof trenches (or whatever those black inserts are called) which slide out to reveal threaded anchors which you screw the support rods into and then slip the feet with the roof bars (which are contoured for the roof) over. You then screw those down and fit the locking covers to prevent theft and bam you're done.

You're saying that the fit kit for the Focus grasps the door frames instead of the roof trenches? That's odd considering the Focus and Gen 2 Mazda 3 share Ford's C1 body.
My Saab has the same plastic rectangles. I was really hoping it would be that easy with the RS . . .
 

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I can't speak for the roof rails, but as far as the actually bike rack is concerned I would suggest the roof version of the 1 up quik rack.
https://www.1upusa.com/product-rooftray.html

I have the hitch version, and it's by far the best built, sturdiest rack I've ever seen or used.
It's extremely quick and easy for loading and unloading.

I usually just use a bike cable to secure my bikes, but they also sell a locking pin to secure bike to rack.
They sell spacers to work with fat tire bikes as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
These are gaining popularity. I'm planning to buy one, but the downside is that you really can't expect to leave your bike alone for any extended period of time. However for getting to the trail or a race it's perfect. based on a Google image search it seems safe on your paint.

Review: Seasucker Talon Bike Rack | road.cc
This is interesting. Two things though: I dont want to take my front tire off to haul my bike. I would just throw it in the hatch instead. Also, I need to be able to haul two bikes at once. Two of these is pricey.
 

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Two ingenious approaches!

I'll be looking hard at this for my next bike carrier purchase. Cheers!
How does the Roof Tray interface to say 19-700C - looks like it could use a wedge tyre cross bar and in the tray, perhaps?

Sucker cups for a permanent or at least long term fitment challange my chi.And in those moments of RS driving indiscretion....
 

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Thule Aerobars if you want it to be extremely durable and sturdy. More expensive, but looks the best and doesn't whistle.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Two ingenious approaches!

I'll be looking hard at this for my next bike carrier purchase. Cheers!
How does the Roof Tray interface to say 19-700C - looks like it could use a wedge tyre cross bar and in the tray, perhaps?

Sucker cups for a permanent or at least long term fitment challenge my chi.And in those moments of RS driving indiscretion....
Ethosguy, What exactly do you mean by wedge tyre cross bar? are you referring to the arm's looking like they open too far with larger wheels?

I don't have 29" mountain bike, but Have hauled number of 700C road bikes, as well as my 650B mountain bike.
650B Mountain bike with thicker tires, works just as well as 26. Road bikes seem to "wiggle" around a bit more due to skinnier tiers, but can't tell while driving.

Just noticed they sell this -http://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html which is supposed to help with skinner wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thule Aerobars if you want it to be extremely durable and sturdy. More expensive, but looks the best and doesn't whistle.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Can you send close up pics of where the mounts attach to the car? Is there drilling required? Any parts of the mount that may harm the paint?
 

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Ethosguy, What exactly do you mean by wedge tyre cross bar? are you referring to the arm's looking like they open too far with larger wheels?

I don't have 29" mountain bike, but Have hauled number of 700C road bikes, as well as my 650B mountain bike.
650B Mountain bike with thicker tires, works just as well as 26. Road bikes seem to "wiggle" around a bit more due to skinnier tiers, but can't tell while driving.

Just noticed they sell this -http://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html which is supposed to help with skinner wheels.
Imagine that the tyre brace bridging left and right arm were a block rather than a bar. And this block were say 75mm tall, then from the underside, which contacts the tyre, an angled cut from each outerside upwards to the centre forming an inverted 'V'.

This 'V' block will entrap any tyre width and centre it...then imagine that the tyre were sitting in a 'V' channel (rather than the 'U' channel as it appears in the photo's), also entraping and centring the tyre...The more acute 'V' angle the stronger the lateral entrapment.

Intrinsicly, the 'V-block will fit any tyre width as it clamps it.

Alternatively, the 'V' block could be a strap, maybe with a split (in effect being two straps) providing seperation and further support, which would form to an given tyre.

Dammm, you've gone & got the creative juices flowing and I want to resolve the ideas and make a prototype. Like I don't already have enough to do (outside pining after this bloody Focus RS idea!)

That visulisation will prevent twisting and wiggling of the wheel, well, only if realised IRL.
 
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