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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Gang-
This is a little something that I posted over on FocusST.org, but should be useful over here on the Big Boy's Forum.
Works phenomenally on my ST, so it should relate to the RS as well.
A little back story:
I've been running the Breedt Quick Shift Arm on my ST since early 2014; in fact, mine is one from one of the early production runs in November, 2013. I ran this arm, along with one of their Billet shift knobs up until May, 2016. For those of you unfamiliar with the Breedt arm, it has four options: 25% reduction, 40% reduction, and two setting that move the shifter forward 25mm with reductions of 24% and 39%. I fell in love with the 39%/+25mm setting and ran that exclusively. Before Carlisle Ford Nats/Focus Rising 16, I installed a Ford Racing (FRPP) shifter that I picked-up used off of the forum, along with a set of Boosted Design's solid shifter base bushings. This combination was everything that I thought I was looking for: super short shifts, a lower shifter height, and a much firmer connection with the solid base bushings.
And then I met Deuce McCracken at Focus Rising in 2017 and checked out his shifter set-up. It is incredibly mechanical feeling, with all of the solid mounts, solid cable ends, and the JRB adjustable shift arm. Amazing feel, so direct that it does not feel like a cable shifter at all; I was shocked, but felt it was too radical for me. That is , until JBR had their Labor Day Sale, and I figured I'd pick one of their arms up and give it a whirl.
As any of you know who've used the JBR, it certainly does have a lot of mechanical feel with the three 4-ounce weights hanging off the front of it, and definitely brought my setup closer to the classic, rear-drive shifter feel. I ran this setup for about a week, but found that I was missing the +25mm forward position that the Breedt offered. Soooo...I took a look at the Breedt arm sitting on my work bench and thought "what if I drill and tap the Breedt arm and install the weights from the JBR on it. I'd keep the added weight, and still have the forward shifter position that I missed from the Breedt.
Here's what I ended up with for Phase 1:
I started off tapping just one "wing" ad stacked the JBR weights, but clearance looked to be getting a little tight near the bottom of the airbox...
DSC00406 by Michael Read, on Flickr
DSC00409 by Michael Read, on Flickr
...So I tapped the other wing and attached the weights to both sides.
DSC00413 by Michael Read, on Flickr
DSC00416 by Michael Read, on Flickr
I ran this setup for about a month, but thought that it could be improved upon. So...on to Phase 2.
I drilled and tapped the end of the wing and stacked the weights the same way that JBR does.
DSC00421 by Michael Read, on Flickr
DSC00420 by Michael Read, on Flickr
DSC00424 by Michael Read, on Flickr
I'm currently running with 2 weights, and I'm pretty happy with the shift feel, but I'm going to order a third one from JBR and give that a try.

Please feel free to post comments and questions. It's a pretty slick setup.
Unfortunately, this is my first post and I'm not allowed to post pictures, but once I am able, I'll get the pics attached.
Mike
 
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Discussion Starter #2
In the meantime, you can see pics over on focusst.org. Search for EVH Hybrid.
 

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Pretty cool,

I just did my JBR shifter @ 40% with all three weights along with the end bushings and mount bushings.
My install post is here somewhere....
Sooo very nice indeed.

But I guess I am not quite clear on the +25mm forward? setting the Breedt (and now your DIY) offers?
So it moves the center point of the shifter in the cabin forward 25mm, meaning toward the engine bay?
Why do you prefer the +25mm? I guess I just haven't heard this to be something needed?
Is the Breedt arm the only offering that does +25mm?
 

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Pretty cool,

I just did my JBR shifter @ 40% with all three weights along with the end bushings and mount bushings.
My install post is here somewhere....
Sooo very nice indeed.

But I guess I am not quite clear on the +25mm forward? setting the Breedt (and now your DIY) offers?
So it moves the center point of the shifter in the cabin forward 25mm, meaning toward the engine bay?
Why do you prefer the +25mm? I guess I just haven't heard this to be something needed?
Is the Breedt arm the only offering that does +25mm?
The +25mm on the breedt pulls the shifter forward towards 1/3/5, and that is the new neutral/center point of the shifter. I started with that and kept it there, as the shifter always felt a little too close to the center console.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd guess that the +25 isn't an issue if you have longer legs, but with my 29" inseam, it's a tremendous help. The short time that I was without it, 6th gear felt like it was in the passenger seat. As far as I know, Breedt is the only one offering this. I originally looked at drilling and tapping a new hole in the JBR arm, using my Breedt as a guide, but there wasn't enough "meat" where it would have needed to go, so I modded the Breedt and sold the JBR.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just found out that JBR will no longer sell the weights individually. I'm currently trying to source a replacement locally. I guess it's a good thing that I got mine when I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A little update:
I did some snooping around at work today (I work at a Building Materials Supply) and found a very easy-to-source replacement for the JBR weights. Ten 1/4"x1-1/2" stainless steel fender washers are approximately the same weight (4 oz.) and thickness (1/2") of one JBR weight, so stacking 30 of them would be the same as 3 of the JBR weights. These sell for 40 cents each in our store, so 30 of them would be less expensive than 3 of the JBRs (if they were still sold separately). I'm going to give this a try this weekend; I'll stack them and tape them together to make installation more manageable, then remove the tape once in place. Talk about being able to dial-in your exact shift weight!
I'll report back.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I also just grabbed a chunk of 1/2" thick steel. A drill press with a 1-5/8" hole saw, and I'll get to work this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I saw that---thanks.
 

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Did you run with the standard breedt shift arm for a while before adding the weight? How much did it help? Mainly the 1-2 shift, as that has the most resistance (Yet no issues with 3-2 shift. cable adjustment already done).

I may consider adding some weight if it helps the shifts.


Also, has anyone tried using a slightly larger screw to mount the breedt shift arm? I'm REALLY annoyed with how much play there is since the screw is smaller than the mounting hole for the stock pin. I may even actually use the stock pin with the breedt arm to make sure it's completely solid, or what was the point of removing slop from the soft bushings? That area is pretty much the worst part in the shift linkage to have any play/wiggling.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've run the Breedt Quick Shift Arm on my ST for about 3-1/2 years; I never added the weights until a couple of months ago.
Honestly, it's been so long since I was stock, I couldn't tell you, but I've never had an issue with "resistence".
As far as the through bolt, I believe that the Breedt comes with an 8mm bolt. I've not noticed any slop with mine. I probably would not try to reuse the stock tension pin; if you remember what a pain it was to remove initially, you'll realize that a through bolt is the better option.
I will say that when I hopped into a dead stock ST at the Ford Ride and Drive event at Carlisle this year, I was shocked at how loose and rubbery the stock shifter felt.
 

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I've run the Breedt Quick Shift Arm on my ST for about 3-1/2 years; I never added the weights until a couple of months ago.
Honestly, it's been so long since I was stock, I couldn't tell you, but I've never had an issue with "resistence".
As far as the through bolt, I believe that the Breedt comes with an 8mm bolt. I've not noticed any slop with mine. I probably would not try to reuse the stock tension pin; if you remember what a pain it was to remove initially, you'll realize that a through bolt is the better option.
I will say that when I hopped into a dead stock ST at the Ford Ride and Drive event at Carlisle this year, I was shocked at how loose and rubbery the stock shifter felt.
I meant stock breedt compared to breedt with added weights. Already have the breedt arm + all solid bushings + boomba shift lever installed.

If you wiggle the arm by hand, you can see the slop. The breedt arm rotates a decent amount before the arm of the transmission starts to move. Tightening the bold won't help either as the play is from the smaller bolt diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll check the slop tonight when I get home (I walk to work). I added the weights because I liked the more mechanical feel that the JBR initially gave me. The combination of the added weights on the arm and my hefty Raceseng Slammer shift knob seems to negate any of the inherent resistance in the shifter.
 

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I like the SS fender washer idea also. I considered something like that when I decided to start chopping mine up, but for me it was a spur of the moment thing (I had the front bumper and airbox off doing other things), so I used what I had avail to me at the time.

I have a suspicion I may find the weight I added to be too much - haven't driven it yet. If I do I'll likely replace the large front piece with a washer stack.
View attachment 224786

Although having the weight(s) further out on the arms may help in overcoming static inertia the mechanism when initiating shift, and then help a bit more with dynamic inertia during the shift. I don't know.... now I'm just over-analyzing a simple issue (as usual). Lol

Good stuff. Agree 100% re the 25mm fwd option... very helpful for people that need to sit closer.
 

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...
Also, has anyone tried using a slightly larger screw to mount the breedt shift arm? I'm REALLY annoyed with how much play there is since the screw is smaller than the mounting hole for the stock pin. I may even actually use the stock pin with the breedt arm to make sure it's completely solid, or what was the point of removing slop from the soft bushings? That area is pretty much the worst part in the shift linkage to have any play/wiggling.
So I just went and checked my Breedt install for tightness after reading this. I can say 100% that my arm exhibits zero play at the mount point. Maybe you got the wrong bolt with your unit? Did you contact Breedt?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah---I guess the washer stack could be considered the "Micro-Adjustable" shifter weight option.
I'm going to fire-up the drill press tonight and see how many hole saws I can kill.
Hopefully I'll be able to post some pics soon. I'm not sure how many posts I need to have before this is allowed.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The new "solid" weights are done, just waiting for the paint to dry. They came out pretty nice though, if I do say so myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pics are up in the original post.
And here are the finished weights after sanding smooth and easing the sharp edges, then sprayed with some DupliColor MetalCast red that I had laying around. Just because they aren't easily seen, it doesn't mean they can't be pretty.
DSC00443 by Michael Read, on Flickr
DSC00445 by Michael Read, on Flickr
Stacked and ready to go on tomorrow. I used a 1/4"x1-1/4" stainless steel fender washer between the weights, to give it some interest, and because we don't sell a 1/4"x2-1/4" stainless hex bolt.
DSC00447 by Michael Read, on Flickr
I'll bring the whole weight assembly to work tomorrow and weigh it on the Postage scale.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Each weight is 3.6 ounces, so the 3-weight setup with spacers comes in at about 11 ounces.
 
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