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Yeah, for me the Euro fits the rest of overall better (buttons and knobs have a consistent look/feel). The stock unit just looks like a flashy Sony ad to me, I paid enough for the car that I don't need ads in it. Also the Euro unit adds the DISP button so there is more functional use with it, with the Sony unit you needed to navigate through menus to turn off the display while with the Euro unit I just press one button.
 

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If anyone is considering this, it's an easy swap. You have to disassemble most of the center console to just install the euro radio, so if you're already doing the cupholder you might as well do the radio at the same time.


Repining the connector for the hazard light was kind of a pain, I finally got the pin out using a sewing pin. In the radio plug on the back, there's only one pin on the radio side without a wire going to it, so it's pretty easy to see what goes where (on the top left, looking at the back of the radio fascia). I zip-tied the now unused harness for the separate hazard plug. I also snugged down some of the screws behind the fascia, there were (hopefully were now) rattles in the dash. You can check if you repined correctly before putting it all back together as there's a constant source of power going to the switch. Also worth checking the radio buttons and HVAC as well.


Source was ebay for the parts, and I used forward2me as the vendors weren't willing to ship to the US. The cost was kind of steep, but cheaper than what was listed above. About $100 for the switches and surround used only, and another $80 for shipping. I also bought a headlight switch with rear fogs instead of the trunk button.
@fourZero that drift stick with everything else looks way to awesome, now I'm really thinking about getting one even though I'll probably never use it.
 

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Wow this thread made it easy! Picked up a used assy (panel, buttons, vents) for 130$cad all included (shipping, customs, etc), it's a little rough, has a few scratches. Once I'm sure I want to keep it I'll have it refinished or repaired, we have some really good interior panel repair shops in the area.

Did it mostly for the DISP button, wish I had it on the track or when I felt like turning the display off on long night trips! Going through the menus was not so bad but the button is so much better!

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Picture of button panel P/N on the back of it:

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Picture of the radio trim panel on the back of it:

IMG_3500.JPG
 

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If you go with uk Ebay, don't be afraid to ask for better photos. If they won't take them, I bet there are scratches. I've been burned by ebay car part dealers who told me that a leather steering wheel was in great shape, when in reality it looked awful but was still functional per se. Mine arrived perfect, minus some dirt and dust that was easily cleaned.
 

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Could have done that but just wanted to try it see if i like it!! And I didnt want to wait for answers!! It's not so bad and it came with the buttons and vents too!

I'll take it off and drop it to a shop to have it done near perfect during my next vacation.

If you take your time and ask for more details/pictures you can definitly save some trouble ans still get a great deal!
 

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Weee, found a panel and control for less than $100 shipped. Finally get to put my wiring diagram search to use =P
 
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Went back to install a brand new euro radio panel. I could not stand the scratches on mine, which I had bought used on eBay. Since then I also bought another one that the eBay global shipping program shipped loose in a box, resulting in the panel being badly damaged in transit. This is when I decided to just buy a new one.

Replacement cost approx.200$cad total but I'm happy now!

Funny thing is when you move that wire from the hazard switch connector down to the button panel connector, it's easy to have the hazard swithc harness block the CD slot. I know I did, shows how I never use the CD player now (5 months later). I did not notice this at all but the hazard switch wire comes out of the dash above the apim, while the radio connector comes from the bottom! To fix this remove the 2 torx screw holding the APIM and move the hazard switch harness below the APIM. I was able to do this even after having joined both harnesses and tie-srapped them together (by moving that one wire from the hazard switch down to the radio connector). I also wrapped the hazard switch connector (now unused) with insulation foam (had a small rattle in this area might have been the loose connector behind the panel).

Here's a shot of the wires AFTER I had moved the hazard switch harness down below the APIM. Also a shot of the euro radio panels trilogy!

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Went back to install a brand new euro radio panel. I could not stand the scratches on mine, which I had bought used on eBay. Since then I also bought another one that the eBay global shipping program shipped loose in a box, resulting in the panel being badly damaged in transit. This is when I decided to just buy a new one.

Replacement cost approx.200$cad total but I'm happy now!

Funny thing is when you move that wire from the hazard switch connector down to the button panel connector, it's easy to have the hazard swithc harness block the CD slot. I know I did, shows how I never use the CD player now (5 months later). I did not notice this at all but the hazard switch wire comes out of the dash above the apim, while the radio connector comes from the bottom! To fix this remove the 2 torx screw holding the APIM and move the hazard switch harness below the APIM. I was able to do this even after having joined both harnesses and tie-srapped them together (by moving that one wire from the hazard switch down to the radio connector). I also wrapped the hazard switch connector (now unused) with insulation foam (had a small rattle in this area might have been the loose connector behind the panel).

Here's a shot of the wires AFTER I had moved the hazard switch harness down below the APIM. Also a shot of the euro radio panels trilogy!
Huh, didn't even think of the CD access. Now I have to check it out tomorrow.

Have been meaning to take the dash apart for the 4th time anyway, I scratched up the temp readout and need to polish them out then put a phone screen protector over it. I'm pretty sure I did exactly what you cautioned against...

This is one of the best mods out there for quality of life. I read your post on the for sale section, I've been burned by parts dealers before. Super frustrating, but now I don't hesitate with asking for good pics and move to a different seller if they don't bother. It's my money after all!
 

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Huh, didn't even think of the CD access. Now I have to check it out tomorrow.

Have been meaning to take the dash apart for the 4th time anyway, I scratched up the temp readout and need to polish them out then put a phone screen protector over it. I'm pretty sure I did exactly what you cautioned against...

This is one of the best mods out there for quality of life. I read your post on the for sale section, I've been burned by parts dealers before. Super frustrating, but now I don't hesitate with asking for good pics and move to a different seller if they don't bother. It's my money after all!
Yes that’s what I do now too! In this case the seller was probably honest, the major damage would have been visible on the listing pictures. According to him it was repackaged at the eBay global shipping center (see attached pictures, no protection at all). I still doubt it was him who did not package it right. In the end eBay issued a refund and let me keep it so I’m selling cheap to recoup some of the extra I paid for a brand new one afterwards.

But yeah, always ask for a confirmation of the condition and more pictures if required. I’ll even ask twice if I’m not satisfied the first time or move to another seller. I tend to be impulsive on those purchases so it’s en exercise in patience at the same time!
 

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I purchased the EU headlight switch in case I get bored and want to install a rear fog at the same time as my fascia, then sent it through a reshipper company. I'm glad that you got a refund for the damage without too much trouble it seems!
 

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If/when you get that rear fog installed I’m curious to see how you did it.

I would love to have one when the weather is bad. Were you planning on using a euro rear diffuser or is there a provision for an extra bulb in our tail lights (vw/audi style...)?



I purchased the EU headlight switch in case I get bored and want to install a rear fog at the same time as my fascia, then sent it through a reshipper company. I'm glad that you got a refund for the damage without too much trouble it seems!
 

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I just pulled the hazard harness to the left of the drive and routed that wire to the other plug. CD works and didn't have to do more than remove the face plate and move that wire while working on it.
 

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I just pulled the hazard harness to the left of the drive and routed that wire to the other plug. CD works and didn't have to do more than remove the face plate and move that wire while working on it.
Good that you had enough slack to do this! I tried this first but the hazard switch harness was too short to clear the cd slot.
 

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If/when you get that rear fog installed I’m curious to see how you did it.

I would love to have one when the weather is bad. Were you planning on using a euro rear diffuser or is there a provision for an extra bulb in our tail lights (vw/audi style...)?
I bought the wiring diagram book from ebay just for this project. There isn't a fuse for it (I think it's LEDs on the EU model) and the wiring diagram shows it wired all the way through to the back bumper on the US model. I'm pretty sure that there's a FORScan option for rear fog, but not sure if there's logic in the light switch that tells the BCM to open the trunk vs turn on the rear fog. The reason I bought the UK light. From here there are two options, one being modify the bumper reflectors with LED rope or a strip (coolest option) like on this Honda Odyssey

but the easiest would be to zip tie something like this under the diffuser:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Brake-Light-Signal-Lamp-Waterproof-F1-12LED-Red-Bumper-Taillight-Universal/273530257598
 

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Out of curiosity why are people ordering the "euro" headunit instead of just a regular focus dash unit?
 

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Out of curiosity why are people ordering the "euro" headunit instead of just a regular focus dash unit?
Some owners don't like the USDM glossy black console as much.
 
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