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2018 NB RS
449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Bloody hell - some pieces were a nightmare like the airbag trim! Some of you blokes out there are going to say "not a problem/this was so easy"...well maybe for you, but this vehicle just loves to cause me stress or break easily for me, say comparing to all the other cars I've had in my life. So much brital plastics my first big piece of advise:
Never work on the plastics of this car in temps lower than 60 degrees to save you some heartache. The warmer the better to keep it more pliable for sure with less breakage.

Casualties of war
Side panel footwell push plug passenger side - broke half in length during removal (didn't notice it did until I pulled the drivers side as it was much longer)
Two different tabs on the shifter boot surround broke (glued back together)
Plastic reverse lockout

Well onward and upward. I'm making this thread to generally give more info and combine some of the info lost through the very many pages/spilt up threads that would take a while to not only read but find some of the good info that is missing in other posts.

Here are the part numbers I put together when I ordered my set up from the UK back in 2018. @thomwithah originally got the contact Nino with Ford > [email protected] , however this email address is no longer any good. If anyone gets a new contact or otherwise, I can update this post. Some have gone the ebay way and has shown to be good and bad.

Center bezel infotainment surround > 2025216 (89.85 EUR)
Center panel buttons for surround > 2024819 (93.02 EUR)
Cup holder > 2058173 (76.98 EUR)
Sliding arum rest > 2022948 (135.86 EUR)
Full center console with cup holder > 1948012 (318.70 EUR)

Option 1 >> The cheap(er) route for this with shipping back in 2018 was as follows:
cup holder, bezel, bezel buttons and armrest >$560.45

Option 2 >> More expensive route (price is not for the faint of heart):
console (which comes with cup holder), bezel, bezel buttons, armrest >$927.69

Difference here is the center console is the stronger magnets and soft close wheel for the armrest

To start - head over to a video by Josh Mills (@j0shm1lls) which can give you an overview of the center console install, but do not use it as the ultimate guide, there are some missing removal steps and additional info to help make this a little easier on you that I will try and fill in.
Before starting, one suggestion from @BigFatFlip made was to remove a front seat (possibly the passenger which has less moving parts/lighter) to give more working space when pulling out the center console.

1) Video @ 40sec > once the USBs and main center console harness are disconnected, they are still attached to the center stack.
To remove >
A) small pick tool or finger to press the clip down in the first pic (toward the drivers side) and slide both USB connections forward (toward the direction of the firewall)
USBconnection (1).JPG USBconnection (2).JPG

B) pull the main center console plug straight back toward the passenger door (held by push clip and alignment tab)

2) Video @ 1:25 > the E brake panel pops up at the front and then goes up and forward - not straight up as the video might indicate

3) Around this point, and from previous experience, I decided to wrap up the leather steering wheel. These plastic pieces are sharp and its not worth the 'oops' to take a little time to protect. So I grabbed some microfiber and blue painters tape. And like @magnus in the Cup Holder Upgrade thread (linked later for continuity) I fully believe in putting some underneath the airbag trim/over the climate controls to prevent marring

4) Video @ 1:38 > as you move to the trim around the climate control and shifter the aft areas pop up and as you see in the video it looks like Josh was pulling out and not more straight back. He does give some pans around the trim pieces so just pay close attention to those that he shows in more detail.
@Zach99 gives some additional details you may want to read over in his thread for the shifter base bushing install

4) Video @ 1:55 > you might notice that Josh has skipped/forgot to capture removal of the air bag trim as the electric plug is showing. We'll go into that as the next step, but here I would tell you that the boot is easy, but it can easily break on those tabs so just go gentle. Pull in toward the shifter and up to get those clips to release.

5) Airbag trim piece ($%@#$) - there are a few spots you can go to to get some hints. Sadly none of them worked for me because I think the metal clips* on my original infotainment bezel were jacked. The trim never pulled out easily...started very light, and slowly tried to pop it out. Over a stint I used a little more force each time, repositioning and never getting it to budge. Eventually it required force that was beyond measure to get it out.

So to @magnus in the Cup Holder Upgrade thread and there is @stinkpiqle in the Euro Head unit thread, both should be able to point in the right direction with pics to help. While I went back and forth to the pic and trying to pull the trim piece...fortunately mine didn't break and it only got beat up on the back side.

*Pic of the clip - both sides were like this with the top tang forward

6) Video @ 2:12 > there are 3 total torx screws for the HVAC surround and 2 total for the infotainment bezel. (Remove all 4 torx screws above the HVAC if you are also pulling the infotainment bezel). Before pulling the HVAC panel, I would either remove the shifter knob or use a cloth and tape to cover it to prevent damage.
There will be 5 plugs to remove before fully pulling it out.

7) Video @ 2:50 > Josh shows you the two 10mm bolts, but doesnt show removing that torx screw on the drivers side mid area (in yellow)

8) Video @ 3:10 > here is another great reason to cover the steering wheel and shifter when pulling out the center console because it is long and can be awkward. I would just recommend to just unscrew the knob and pull the shifter/boot up and out and get it out of the way all together (super safe). It slides out very easily.

If you aren't doing the infotainment bezel or the arm rest then this is the end
9) Here you can go back to @stinkpiqle about half way down his post in the Euro Head unit thread for popping the infotainment bezel. Before using a plastic trim tool, I used more blue painters tape on both side of the bezel on the dash to prevent any scratches (the sacrificial layer) ;)

10) In order to set up the wiring for the new emergency light switch/radio controls, I had to remove the CD player to re-route that original emergency light plug below it. @Barroux did the same and had the second pic. There are two torx screws for the CD player and it pulls out
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
RoutedWire.jpg <--not sure why, but apparently @Barroux fingers are SEXY (only blokes over 18 can see)

11)Thanks to @rox for noting the brown/yellow stripe wire is the one that needs to be transferred over from the original emergency light plug to the center panel buttons/radio controls plug. And this will go into the slot right above the gray/wire stripe wire (pic shows emergency plug (left) and radio plug (right))

@brian.lovelace Sells a plug and play adapter for this which will swap the wires and give you more room to maneuver the entire harness.

To Be continued (10 pic limit)

2018 NB RS
449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
12)Upon inspection of the vent duct foam insulation was crap and not properly aligned and no stuck to anything (seen in pics). I used some spray glue and put it back how it should. So it is a good idea to go through this area like others have mentioned and check screws for tightness, etc.
BadFoam (3).jpg BadFoam (4).jpg

If you aren't doing the center console conversion you can skip to ahead
13)The wiring harness in the console is pretty self explanatory -
Looking from underneath going from the front and going back, two clips that pull off right next to each other, push clip by forward cup, push clip by aft cup, push clip by armrest
Clip1_2.JPG Clip3.JPG Clip4.JPG Clip5.JPG
To the 3 electrical plugs that go to the 12v plugin and USBs will need to be accessed once you pull off the back end of the console.

14)Thanks to @god7illa in the Euro sliding armrest install thread this shows how to pop the back end of the console off in the first two steps. Since I purchased the entire center console, I just needed to move everything over > harness, KV-antenna, USB and 12v plugin.
The new armrest comes with two new hinge pins so I didn't have to remove the old armrest. However, I would suggest lightly greasing them to pop back in.

15)VIDEO @ 2:15 gives the info for removing the 12v from the old console (if needed - while it looked like the 12v plug in would remove easily from the back, it actually goes out the front.)
Pic shows the two square holes where the clips are holding it. Just push up from the back after depressing them.
12v (1).JPG 12v (2).JPG

16) Last thing is if you are doing anything with the shifter, reverse lockout or shifter base no better time than now.
I've already pointed in the direction of some like Zack99 in the shifter base install. Some additional info that can help are here from Raceseng and VIDEO @ 4:19 from Christopher Ayres to remove the lockout.
Again for me the plastic lockout didn't fair well when I tried to removed it using my scribes to get it to release and like any plastic on this car I've experienced eventual aggravation and breakage. I tried for some time to ensure that I wouldn't break it and it just would not comply trying to get those two tabs.

17)The infotainment bezel went pretty easy and I was able to transfer over the vents without issues. The plastic in here is pretty thin so slow and steady (surprisingly no casualties)

18)Put it all back together and enjoy (and pray you don't have to do that ever again :D)

If I forgot anything or others want me to add to this, I will edit up.
Until then cheers to all, and to all a good night!

2,997 Posts
Great write-up. I wished I had something like this when I did my shifter install, but at least now, this exists in support to the other good write-ups and can be saved for posterity.

One thing I would ad is that I had a much easier time taking out the center console by removing one of the seats, doesn't matter which side. This gave me enough room to maneuver the center console in and out and some room to lay on my back/sides to access some of the wiring connections.

1,912 Posts
Great writeup!

For the next time you pull the airbag jewel, I saw one video where the guy used a trim removal tool with a "V" notch and went in from the left side of the tabs to pry. When I took mine apart, I deformed the plastic tabs a little to make it better to remove.

I appreciate the part number for the console. I have some travels in my future, maybe I can bring home a EU console!

2018 NB RS
449 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great writeup!

For the next time you pull the airbag jewel, I saw one video where the guy used a trim removal tool with a "V" notch and went in from the left side of the tabs to pry. When I took mine apart, I deformed the plastic tabs a little to make it better to remove.
If you know of the video - I can try to include it as another reference to pulling it.

I was beginning to think I was the only one to have hellish trouble with that %bad word inserted here% ;p
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