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Discussion Starter #1
I have all 3 cpe engine mounts. I am gettinting fed up with nvh lol

Anyone know if i will have less nvh if i use oem side and transmission mounts with powerflex inserts??

Also anyone using oem side and transmission mounts and pushing 500 whp? i can imagine at 500 whp and stock mounts things might get banged. in my case the wastegate to firewall is very close to eacg other.
 

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I have all 3 cpe engine mounts. I am gettinting fed up with nvh lol

Anyone know if i will have less nvh if i use oem side and transmission mounts with powerflex inserts??

Also anyone using oem side and transmission mounts and pushing 500 whp? i can imagine at 500 whp and stock mounts things might get banged. in my case the wastegate to firewall is very close to eacg other.
You know the manufacturer spends a lot of time and money on formulating the hardness of engine and suspension mounts (I know as 2 of my relatives were involved in all forms of vehicle testing for GM) believe me its an exhaustive process.Then some basically backyard dudes by comparison start flogging "upgraded" stuff and people start using them on what is predominately road cars.
Doesn't make much sense to me. For a track car sure but for road use,questionable.

Ciao
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You know the manufacturer spends a lot of time and money on formulating the hardness of engine and suspension mounts (I know as 2 of my relatives were involved in all forms of vehicle testing for GM) believe me its an exhaustive process.Then some basically backyard dudes by comparison start flogging "upgraded" stuff and people start using them on what is predominately road cars.
Doesn't make much sense to me. For a track car sure but for road use,questionable.

Ciao
True what you say,

So from your reply I take it you would only consider it for track application and also upping the stock hp from 350 to 550 at crank does not require those 2 additional mounts to be uppgraded and oem are capable?
 

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True what you say,

So from your reply I take it you would only consider it for track application and also upping the stock hp from 350 to 550 at crank does not require those 2 additional mounts to be uppgraded and oem are capable?
I'd monitor the std mounts and see how they hold up. People here have had aftermarket mounts fail more than once.
I actually think a lot of aftermarket parts aren't worth the money. Bypass valve for instance,lots of talk about the fact that its plastic and cant deal with additional boost etc etc. I've not heard of one failing in the last 3 years and a maintenance free plastic valve seems better to me than a billet aluminium valve that needs lubricating every 6 months.
Just think you need to be very judicious before you go swapping out an OEM component for some other component that hasn't undergone the rigorous testing of the OEM on the basis it "billet" for instance or has "better control" over the std stuff. Most of this stuff isn't tested rigorously over tens of thousands of miles at a dedicated test facility looking for failure points. Mostly its just tested on the shop car that's a DD with the odd trip to the track if you lucky.
I bought a Short shifter stick for my car that was supposed to be "adjustable" until it actually wasn't. Never fitted it because at the end of the day I thought it wasn't necessary.
I'll sell it unused if anyone is interested.

Ciao
 

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I have all 3 cpe engine mounts. I am gettinting fed up with nvh lol

Anyone know if i will have less nvh if i use oem side and transmission mounts with powerflex inserts??

Also anyone using oem side and transmission mounts and pushing 500 whp? i can imagine at 500 whp and stock mounts things might get banged. in my case the wastegate to firewall is very close to eacg other.
Not familiar with the cpe engine mounts (are they solid? urethane?) but depending on the durometer of the power flex inserts, you may or may not reduce the nvh by that much. I would say switch back to the OEM mounts, find what bangs /moves around, and address that particular mount with a slightly higher durometer insert.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Not familiar with the cpe engine mounts (are they solid? urethane?) but depending on the durometer of the power flex inserts, you may or may not reduce the nvh by that much. I would say switch back to the OEM mounts, find what bangs /moves around, and address that particular mount with a slightly higher durometer insert.
The side mount is on. Gona do the transmission mount next.

The cpe are pretty solid at 70 durometer. the ones I have I see their is a 55 one too

338493



338494
 

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Discussion Starter #7
done, man now I have my rear view mirror again working lol. I'll keep it this way

338497
 

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done, man now I have my rear view mirror again working lol. I'll keep it this way
Glad to hear it. It really baffles me why motors mounts are such a popular mod on this platform. Why would anybody intentionally want more NVH? lol
 

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I have the CPe rear motor mount, I think @Hank does as well.

That's the most I would do. I just want to reduce wheel hop and it's not as bad as the mount insert I did on my Evo X.
 

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All depends how much it effects driving feel. A few friends of mine are Honda people. Built NA civic si’s and such. Having solid motor mounts in them are garbage anywhere near idle, but driving them around and rowing gears feels amazing.

Though with AWD I doubt there would be as big of a difference
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Glad to hear it. It really baffles me why motors mounts are such a popular mod on this platform. Why would anybody intentionally want more NVH? lol
i thought due to bigger turbo , cams fbo etc and such it would be needed so i experimented. I will just keep the rear mount and if ever needed i will experiment with the powerflex inserts
 

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I have the CPe rear motor mount, I think @Hank does as well.
I love my “solid” motor mounts. CP-E Stage 2 rear, JBR 88 durometer tranny and JBR 80 durometer engine mount. With no balance shafts either it makes the rear view mirror useless but it provides an endless massage. I wouldn’t have it any other way for Autox and street duty. Of course the majority of my modifications are not for the faint of heart daily drivers.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I love my “solid” motor mounts. CP-E Stage 2 rear, JBR 88 durometer tranny and JBR 80 durometer engine mount. With no balance shafts either it makes the rear view mirror useless but it provides an endless massage. I wouldn’t have it any other way for Autox and street duty. Of course the majority of my modifications are not for the faint of heart daily drivers.

That is some serious durometer values ?. ?
 

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They do ‘break in’ a bit so if one changes all at the same time, it can be stiff for a while.

Do one at a time and let each break in a bit, before adding the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
got mine used so already broken in and nvh was tough on me lol. especially using it for any long trip
 

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I have a Stage 2 myself, not too bad.
 

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Nu-uh, just the rear motor mounts.......

I done the all mounts thing before on my project EG Civic before, I can live with it.

Not on the RS since if I do that the Mrs. wont ride on the car. ?
 
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All depends how much it effects driving feel. A few friends of mine are Honda people. Built NA civic si’s and such. Having solid motor mounts in them are garbage anywhere near idle, but driving them around and rowing gears feels amazing.

Though with AWD I doubt there would be as big of a difference
I have all 3 Damon mounts, for about 3500 miles now. The car is so planted now, the steering, shifting, and turn in feel is amazing. With a Ti exhaust and no muffler, cold start is so sik. Only issue I have is idle to take off, as long as revs are brought up its fine. My rear view mirror works fine. The dash two pc design tho, well that can go to hell. The temp variations in socal reak havoc with it. This is my nemesis this weekend for sure.
 

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I did the JBR two piece RMM, first.
Then the JBR engine mount, passenger side.

Waiting a bit for the JBR drivers side trans mount.
I thnik that's the one that adds the most NVH?
 
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