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MY17 Stealth Grey RS2
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Hello folks,

This message came up when starting the car, but then no check engine light or nothin’. Literally just popped up for a second then went away, but only when I started the car.

Should I be concerned? The car drives fine and like I said, no light. Turned it off and on to see if it came up again, but nope. Does anyone else have this occur to them?

This happened 1 other time like a year ago before I had the recall done, but IDK ??‍♂
 

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Had this happen to me last winter, turned out to be the neutral sensor in the transmission (or something like that) that was either not working or out of spec.

No check engine, no stored codes, dealer found it right away with their tools though and repaired under warranty. Has not happened again since.

The message was also on for just about a second at startup exactly like you described, yellow with the little wrench icon.
 

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Hello folks,

This message came up when starting the car, but then no check engine light or nothin’. Literally just popped up for a second then went away, but only when I started the car.

Should I be concerned? Car drives fine and like I said, no light. Turned it off an on to see if it came up again, but nope. Anyone else have this occur to them?
This happened 1 other time like a year ago before I had the recall done, but IDK ??‍♂
You need to see if its logged a code. For that you need an OBD2 unit. Cheap on ebay and you can download a free app to at least see what the code is.
There is another thread here where a boost control solenoid was at fault but the car also had symptoms.

Ciao
 

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MY17 Stealth Grey RS2
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply guys. I’ll check for codes and then take it to the dealer to check it. Might as well since my transmission tower is leaking oil too.
 

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2017 Black RS
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You need to scan it to pull the code. You can pull it with an AccessPort, if you have one. I got this warning on initial startup if I haven't started the car for a day or two.... and it started happening right after I swapped in a small battery. So I think I just need to get in Forscan and mess with the battery values. My code was P08B2.
 

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I also had this problem. I brought it into the dealer and the battery failed the voltage test and it was replaced under warranty. They also replaced the battery cables. This fixed the problem. Another symptom the car had which I believe was related was the auto start/stop never worked, and now it does.
 

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Has anyone successfully got rid of this message while running a smaller battery? I have an Odyssey PC680, and changed all 4 of the battery settings in FORScan to the smallest battery size (I think that was like 370 CCA, even though the PC680 is 170 CCA), but I'm still getting this warning. I even tried adding that extra ground cable.
 

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Has anyone successfully got rid of this message while running a smaller battery? I have an Odyssey PC680, and changed all 4 of the battery settings in FORScan to the smallest battery size (I think that was like 370 CCA, even though the PC680 is 170 CCA), but I'm still getting this warning. I even tried adding that extra ground cable.
how long have you had the pc680? they only last me about a year...maybe little longer. if you get an odyssey 12v battery charger and hook it up couple times a week in your garage....you should stop seeing the engine warning. provided you have a fresh battery.
 

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Thanks @big jim. The battery was new and actually went down hill fast, which was from either my (non-Odyssey) battery charger or jump starts. It started off with me driving to an autocross, but my battery was dead when my run group was going and I had to get jumped. I've had to jump it several times since then. I ended up just going back to the original size, although I was a little tempted to get the parts for an ST battery box and going with an Odyssey PC1200 for it... but that would have cost me an extra $200 (~$100 for the box parts; +$100 for that battery). When I pulled the PC680 out it was very bloated and sad looking.
 

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Thanks @big jim. The battery was new and actually went down hill fast, which was from either my (non-Odyssey) battery charger or jump starts. It started off with me driving to an autocross, but my battery was dead when my run group was going and I had to get jumped. I've had to jump it several times since then. I ended up just going back to the original size, although I was a little tempted to get the parts for an ST battery box and going with an Odyssey PC1200 for it... but that would have cost me an extra $200 (~$100 for the box parts; +$100 for that battery). When I pulled the PC680 out it was very bloated and sad looking.
sounds like you just had a bad batt from the get go. i've had good experience with them for 2 years now. it's a PITA to deal with sometimes...but i feel the benefit of -30lbs in the front is worth it.
 

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Sucks to hear. I've been waiting to switch to a smaller battery once by stock one gives out.
February will be 4 years with the OEM battery and I've been running a Thinkware Dash cam since then with Parking Mode Motion Detection.
I was just wanted to see if running a dash cam with the Odyssey battery will cause it to drain quickly. I don't want to be worried about a dead battery.

Anyone else have any issues with these smaller batteries?
 

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Sucks to hear. I've been waiting to switch to a smaller battery once by stock one gives out.
February will be 4 years with the OEM battery and I've been running a Thinkware Dash cam since then with Parking Mode Motion Detection.
I was just wanted to see if running a dash cam with the Odyssey battery will cause it to drain quickly. I don't want to be worried about a dead battery.

Anyone else have any issues with these smaller batteries?
if you have your rs in your garage...then keeping it charged is no prob at all.
I had a house/garage 2 yrs ago...but now I'm in an apartment bldg and I cant charge it while it's in the car. so I have 3 pc680s that I rotate every month. keeping 2 charged batteries in the apartment where its warm.
I takes me 15 mins to swap em. warmer weather seasons permits the battery to keep longer charge and I can go 3 months without having to swap. I daily drive mine...so that helps too.

I dont know how much power a dash cam would drain? but I'm guessing it wouldnt be a good combination. maybe the equivalent of having an interior light on? I think this would wear your battery out faster in the long term and you may need to replace in 6-9 months.
that's if you're charging every night in a garage. I'm just guessing though.

but it's a nice mod. I could feel the diff when I installed it. the car felt more nimble.
 

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I think I liked the weight savings 2nd most, but the best thing I liked about the smaller battery was the space savings in the engine bay. It was probably my charger that helped end it... I've had it for a while and even though it does have a "deep cycle battery" mode, I think I went through the same thing with my other car. That one I did eventually just put a battery box in the trunk.

I do want to revisit this, but I needed my daily driver to be reliable again. I'm keeping my Mele battery mount... so after a while I'll check on that Odyssey battery charger you were talking about. If it was just weight savings I was after, Braille does sell a 10lb group 48 battery that should fit our OEM battery box.... but for $1500!
 

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Has anyone successfully got rid of this message while running a smaller battery? I have an Odyssey PC680, and changed all 4 of the battery settings in FORScan to the smallest battery size (I think that was like 370 CCA, even though the PC680 is 170 CCA), but I'm still getting this warning. I even tried adding that extra ground cable.
I run an Antigravity 5lb battery. Fires right up with no engine fault messages but I also turned the BMS off. The Antigravity batteries have their own on board BMS and the two do not play well with each other.

Also, as you pointed out, I started to doubt if the BMS could optimally charge some of these smaller batteries since there's no charging profile you can select through Forscan that closely match. I had a Braille before the Antigravity, and I believe the BMS played a part in it's short life. I suspect that once the BMS saw such a diminished battery capacity compared to what it was expecting to see from a stock battery, it began to undercharge the Braille. I saw this towards the end when I was monitoring a battery charge of 12.6V while running. This undercharging probably led to the tendency to drain and having to jump start, which just compounds the issues. With the BMS off, I see 14.6-14.8V.
 

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I run an Antigravity 5lb battery. Fires right up with no engine fault messages but I also turned the BMS off. The Antigravity batteries have their own on board BMS and the two do not play well with each other.

Also, as you pointed out, I started to doubt if the BMS could optimally charge some of these smaller batteries since there's no charging profile you can select through Forscan that closely match. I had a Braille before the Antigravity, and I believe the BMS played a part in it's short life. I suspect that once the BMS saw such a diminished battery capacity compared to what it was expecting to see from a stock battery, it began to undercharge the Braille. I saw this towards the end when I was monitoring a battery charge of 12.6V while running. This undercharging probably led to the tendency to drain and having to jump start, which just compounds the issues. With the BMS off, I see 14.6-14.8V.
is there a way to turn off the BMS without using forscan?
 
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